
Grim
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Everything posted by Grim
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Yup, that's certainly the one that blew when I accidentally powered on with no bulbs in the little rubber holders.....
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Hah. I have now. That's why I did some research first. This one is solid, there is also a fail-safe if the main clamps failed. PS the phone is not connected to a network, just GPS/WiFi.
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Ha, Nope, the "parking" light. Little 12v bulb under the main headlamp bulb. Black and yellow wires. I soldered on to the terminals and ran the cables out the bucket in the original plastic sleeve.
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I have been looking for a good solution to wireless charging my phone whilst using it as a dash/satnav. After much research I found this unit from available on Amazon has plenty of good reviews, a few YouTube videos about it and was cheap but not cheap enough to be horrible. It uses the Ram ball mount, and comes with a variety of options, but I bought an M8 threaded version separately to go in the stem cap without having to drill anything out. I used an expanding anchor with this, which spreads as you tighten but drops back when undone, it doesn't permanently deform. Gif: https://i.imgur.com/QKhL9t3.gifv I soldered into the sidelight terminals inside the headlamp bucket and ran cables in a sleeves out to the headlamp multiplug. Then up to some waterproof female bullet connectors for when it's not in use. The Qi charging is not likely to blow the circuit, it runs off 5 watts minimum. This mount also has a waterproof USB out for secondary charging, like a GoPro or another phone if you get stuck. The metal parts of the mount are stainless steel, and there is a one touch clamp, and then an easy (in gloves too) squeeze top and bottom to release. It feels solid so far; I've used it over a few 100 miles with no issues, it comes with an extra rubber web to secure the phone if you need it. Also added my red led backlights (+3bhp), led sidelight and headlamp h4 bulb. Headlight has a front mounted fan and heatsink, so no extra bulk in the bucket.
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I'm using the sidelight cables for my phone holder/wireless charger.
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I've recently fitted a Ram phone mount to my steering head cap, I used an M8 concrete anchor, as it spreads as you tighten it. It ain't going anywhere, but as you back off the teeth retract and it's easy to remove. I used ally crush washers either side.
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I am only talking about the backlights here, the ones that illuminate the dials. I am happy with the visibility of the warning lights. I have the "jewelled style" and they are pretty noticable, with the whole thing glowing when lit up....except of course for the fuel level..... I have a feeling these T10 holders look to be correct, although I cant find anywhere that referecnes 286 on any of the adverts for them. I will order some as I like the look of the rubber "teeth" maybe less awkward to remove than the originals? These look to be a good match for the originals: https://www.lightinthebox.com/en/p/5pcs-t10-w5w-soft-rubber-light-bulb-socket-lamp-holder-connector-car-light-base-auto-led-lights-bulb-socket-connector_p8297399.html I ordered some of these too, I think you could probably notch the holes in the back of the clock body to accept these, then you just turn them in and the teeth catch behind, I'll give it a go.
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I bought some LEDs to replace the back-lights, all good, they seem to be either marketed as T5, 286 or 74 wedge bulbs. This is a little confusing, from what I can see T5 is a code for wattage, whereas 286 is the style of bulb (although sometimes they state "wedge" like there is an alternative 286 bulb style)? I would like to replace my rubber bulb holder, one has snapped and they cause shorts because they are all perished and allow the bulb to pop out and touch contacts sometimes. It would be interesting to be able to find a "click in" style solid plastic holder that released when squeezed, the rubber ones are horrible to deal with. Should all 286 holders be the correct size for the bulb? Does anyone really know!?
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Thanks, I'll ask them if they would ship to the UK
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Sorry to dig up the thread, but I am having a hard time finding any suitably shaped tank pads in the UK, anyone found anything? Thanks
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I think at some point it's either been installed wrong, or got hot and warped? Basically it sits in the recess but one edge fouls it a bit, even installed correctly there is some rotation where the bolt can be done up, enough that when I first tightened it it meant the bottom sump plate was a mm or so off and I couldn't get the bolts in. Maybe I should get a new one.
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Installed Roper plate. Actually spent most of the day scraping baked on insta-gasket from sump plate(s)/oil pump/everywhere. Also, why does nobody tell you not to remove the oil strainer? Or at least index it so it isn't impossible to line up the sump cover on reassembly. I was consistently about 2mm off every damn time I adjusted it, and I did not want to chew up my new (only)gasket.
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Well, it wasn't 90F today, my bike does hate the heat..... The end of our UK heatwave
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Put in my Chinese (Made in the USA) Omrons, I could only get 2, so I put them in Fuel and lights/tach. Not sure if it's a placebo effect, but 2 things have happened: Mid range steady part throttle feels smoother, hard to describe but theres a turbine like quality around 3500-4000 where it all just feels sorted. This could be down to my endless tinkering/balancing, but it didn't feel quite the same yesterday. My ITI tach is now only bouncing after bumps, so on a flat roads the needle is steady. This is different to the metronome like action it had before. The ITI tach isn't grounded inside the housing, it has a multi plug, is there anything else I can do to steady the needle on bumpy roads or are they just crap? The relay model is G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 OMRON DC12V, got them off ebay and they took a week to ship from China.
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Found and fitted this screen, not sure. I'm going a bit further and wanted something to keep the wind off on the motorway. It's a Fabbri 3021, meant for a Honda Hornet. I had to try the mounts in every orientation before getting something close to fitting. There's a bit of a gap at the top of the light, but I guess it's by design, as the bolt is going to be half way up the headlamp on most bikes with a round light, so the hight would have been no different on the intended Honda.
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Hah, thanks! Do you think they could be turned into 'risers' on a later sport? Nobody tried?
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I have a 2003 Sport naked with low clip-ons. I keep seeing 'high' clip-ons on eBay which look like they are a couple inches high, but the fixing tab appears to have 3 small holes compared to my one larger bolt hole, so is there another variation of top clamp besides the Cafe and Ballabio styles? What I have: What I've seen: It looks like these are designed to go under the top clamp, but could these be adapted into slightly higher clip-ons above the top clamp? Why did they change the design?
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Eventually found a nice NOS fairing made by Fabbri, so at least it's Italian. I'll post pics when I get it, if it's not embarrassing...
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I think the seat went walkies... still, you could get a new cover?
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I wonder what it will fetch, very cheap right now!
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REasonable Tenni in the UK: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224536844781?hash=item34477059ed%3Ag%3AjAUAAOSwNM9g8aSJ&LH_ItemCondition=4
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Yeah, I am going to do a change with full-synth in the next few weeks ( and install my Roper plate, woo-hoo), so we'll see if that works. I feel like adding a non-return valve to the vent hose and routing it to the ground would probably be a good thing to keep the airbox clean!
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With a bit more investigation, it looks like the Monster light sits in a horshoe shaped frame that blots to the bottom steering clamp. This then has 2 bolt holes a tthe top, providing fixing points for the fairing, So that is a no go. The Griso owner told me he though the supports bolted to the undeersirte fo the top clamp? So probably no good. I must be doomed to get and aftermarker flyscreen, ugly as they are!
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I think you're right about the monster one, the Griso one has the plates attached to the screen, I can't seem to find any photos of how it might be attached.
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I heard whispers that since the headlight is the same, and the clocks are almost the same, then a screen from a 2000 -ish Monster 600/900 might fit a V11 sport. I am doing a few bigger trips and noticed that constant 70/80mph is a bit draining. I have found Universal screens like Puig fit straigh on the main headlight bucket bolts, but some are very ugly. I think an original Bikini would be best, but rocking horse poop in the UK. I found this M900 one, looks like it fits the handlebar clamps!? So the chances of that fitting are slim Also found a Griso one, did they use the same brackets and headlight? Thanks!