Grim
-
Posts
205 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Grim
-
-
Dragging this up from the past, if anyone gets here looking for answers, the gear that sits on the worm drive, and also the connecting gear up to the odometer are identical in the Ducati ST2/ST4/900SS CEV speedo.
The face looks like this:
The trip button is also the same, so it's a good source of 3 spare parts!
-
3
-
-
Right, it's a tiny bit too big, so that's a no on direct fit.
But the mechanism is practically identical, so the gear that sits on the worm drive for the Speedo/trip is the same part, as is the connecting drive and Speedo reset knob.
So.... What is the best way to get the worm gear out? Bend the entire metal back plate down? Or is it better to try and go in from the front?
It doesn't look like the needle comes off? Are they glues/screwed on? Seems delicate.
Edit: prized the back plate down, put new worm gear in. Spent an hour tapping and bending the whole thing till the worm gear actually engaged.
Tip: do not bend the back down, figure out a way to remove the front!
Ducati ST2/ST4/900ss CEV Speedo gears do fit the ITI Speedo though, exactly the same, it looks like this:
I posted this on reply to a different thread, but here it is easier to find in case anyone needs it.
Here is a pic to show the Ducati gear you installed, the state of the old one, and the Ducati odo/trip gear and reset
-
1
-
-
I put a tiny little rear light on the back, to replace the small, but crappy light/bracket arrangement that I was never happy with. This Shin-Yo light is supposed to be fender mounted on the top, but I took a gamble on it fitting/being visible under the V11 rear...
-
8
-
-
11 hours ago, docc said:
Those clocks look sooooo similar! Even the cable drive input and the spread of the mounting studs.
I tried measuring my Veglia angle drive input (they have been known to be driven by the later V11 cables) and got more like 16mm.
Then there is the matter of the illumination . . .
The thread on the gearbox that the angle drive attaches to is 16mm, but the clock side of the cable (on mine with ITIs ) is 12mm. Not sure if that is common...
I *think*. Those yellow bits are blanked off holes for lights, I have seen images on Google where they seem to have bulb holders in there.
EDIT: Bought one cheap just now, so we shall see! Nearly matches my mileage
-
2
-
-
Since I didn't get my arse in gear and finish wiring up my electronic speedo yet, but have manage to wrestle my bike into a working state and am now riding it, I find myself in need of something that has a working trip counter.
I have spotted a few 900ss Speedos on eBay, they are cheap and look kind of ok-ish.
Has anyone fitted one to replace an ITI Speedo?
Here is a Ducati item, the seller says the thread is "about 12mm" and has (badly) measured the diameter at 82mm.
Here is mine
Sorry for quality, I was showing the seller how to measure diameter!
So they look very similar. The Ducati item has fixed posts, but apart from that..what do we think??
-
I'm sure all these things are great, and I might sound like and stubborn old git (I'm actually 37, is there a youngest Guzzi rider trophy?
) but I have never had a problem with a loop of clear tube with one end in a glass bottle of old brake fluid; just pump out the old stuff and the air bubbles, it goes out into the bottle and the bubbles rise up, can't get sucked back in.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Just following up... I took my bike for it's MOT (uk annual test) today, not sure what I was expecting, but it feels like a new bike. The sheer amount of tinkering has (I think) beaten everything into submission.
- No misfire on either cyclinder at idle
- No hot idle cough or splutter
- Smooth pull all the way to redline
- Can hold at part throttle (anywhere) and it sits happily and smoothly
-
Drinks all the fuel....
So, all in all, doing all the tune up stuff, again and again until you get it right, makes a wonderful difference...
Had an entire family stop and marvel as I rolled past, kids shouting nice bike, I put this down to my wonderful rattle can paint job.....
-
2
-
1
-
6 hours ago, gstallons said:
That white knob is difficult to turn for a reason . I am going to have to make a new instruction procedure and I left out some things concerning the fast idle kicker .
The yellow paint was all in the threads on mine, so it wouldn't turn at all. In my first attempt I thought it was turning, but then realised I had accidentally unwound the thread out of the ball joint on the right hand side!
-
11 minutes ago, Chuck said:
You are no doubt the first to have to deal with the fast idle thingy..
I was well prepared for releasing it, not letting it interfere with the TPS, making sure it was well out the way... Just didn't quite realise that tightening it back up would wind it on a tiny amount behind my back...
-
1
-
-
54 minutes ago, docc said:
Great news, Grim!
(Note that gstallons corrected the 450 mV to 540 mV. Likely give you a more stable, albeit higher, idle.)
Oh, bugger. It's idling over 1000 on the tacho, haven't checked in GuzziDiag. Might have to go over this again....
Have I invented a new procedure, BTW? 😉
Thanks for all your help.
In case anyone else is in despair and reads this, here are some things of note....
Things that were compounding the problem:
Jammed up white knob and sync rod thread would not allow easy adjustment to get rod on the ball joint without putting something else out of adjustment.
Fast idle had somehow crept in after setting idle screws, nudging the right throttle more open before attaching rod, make sure it doesn't nip up the throttle when tightening back up.
Possible exhaust leaks.
An ECU map that was richer than standard, making the left cylinder (which nearly closed) too rich at idle, therefore sooty.
Possible air leaks around perished rubber intake.
P.S. I saved myself £90 as well, which is how much a Guzzi specialist had quoted for a TPS reset, and I wouldn't have had the satisfaction of knowing I had done it myself, and knowing how everything was set.
-
6
-
1
-
-
23 minutes ago, gstallons said:
Let us know when you are completely satisfied with your repairs .
Is this hypothetical?
-
1
-
1
-
-
51 minutes ago, gstallons said:
4 . Don't feel anything , know .
The throttle plates must be the same degree of opening . You must adjust the idle air screws to maintain balance . This is only going to work if everything else is perfect .
See above, I got it running pretty well, I used a modified version of your idea, so thank you very much for the inspiration and guidance.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, docc said:
@Grim Those compression numbers seem fine. Certainly symmetrical. If your battery went flat that quickly, perhaps getting it well conditioned and swapping the relays (3<->5) is worth the small fuss. Otherwise, I still ponder about grooming your exhaust, getting all lined up and fully seated at every joint. The last time I had to set my air screws very much differently, I found the intake vacuum taps had loosed up enough to cause trouble.
Ok, I have had some success.
I swapped back in a Siemens relay, but noticed no difference.
I wound the throttles back, disconnected choke and made sure I still had 157mv, yes I did.
I went for 1 turn out on the newly cleaned air screws.
I took off, and put back on the exhaust, I have this slight issue where the gaskets seem too thick, resulting in the crossover pipes not meeting the little nubs on the headers, but i can't compress them any more with the head nuts. Still, it all went back together.
I took off the throttle sync rod and wire brushed and oiled the slider mechanism. ( I am using a locknut on it)
I was thinking, I know what I (rightly or wrongly) want here, I want the right hand TB idle value to start off at 450mv.
I did that.
Ok got some calipers in between the right hand throttle stop plates, got 4.7mm.
I went to the left and wound the screw out to achieve 4.7mm between the throttle stop plates.
I then connected the left side of the sync rod, and hovered over the bike and carefully wound the nylon knob till the left hand side would pop on the ball joint without moving the idle off 450mv.
So I definitely had the idle at 450mv and at least the same exact gap on the right, and the rod had not altered the idle yet.
Started her up and... Running nearly balanced from the get go! Got it hot and wound it up to 3k, slightly too much air on the right, adjust the knob to perfect sync.
Back to idle and... Slightly lumpy, very slightly. I'm going to live with that and not tidy it up with the air screws.
Thank you one and all, thanks for the help
-
2
-
-
Sorry to barge back in Weegie.
I got about 135psi cold on each, but could only rattle off about 5 cranks on the battery before it slowed. Also, this was a universal rubber tip compression test, not a screw in.
You just hold it on with your third hand!
Main thing is, both sides exactly the same.
So onto the next thing....
-
5 minutes ago, docc said:
That may be an opportunity. The Panasonic are good relays, but are under-rated for the fifth position (fuel injection/ignition), especially.
True High Current (micro) Relays have become hard to come by, but worth sourcing.
As a minimum, swap your middle relay (Neutral Switch Relay) with the fifth (FI/Ignition) and repeat your hand-flapper test . . .
Thanks, I've tried to find Omrons to no avail. I actually bought the set of Panasonic's and replaced all 5.....
I still have the old Siemens and Tyco mix in a bag, not sure which ones you would recommend?
-
5 minutes ago, docc said:
I'm gonna reach sideways here and ask what relays (make/model) are in the last two positions (at the back)?
These Panasonic ones I believe
https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/non-latching-relays/8113123/
-
1 minute ago, docc said:
I had been thinking how important it is to make sure the high idle mechanism is not fouling the throttle stop. And that the fussy right side idle stop screw did not interfere with your TPS baseline . . .
Compression test (or even a leak-down test) will set some heavy concerns aside.
The high idle follower was flapping in the breeze, and the right throttle stop was way out (someone had been here before and was only using the left for idle) it initially read 84mv. When I got 157mv the butterfly was sticking in the bore. I feel I definitely got that bit right.
-
1
-
-
Thanks for believing in me (or at least my left cylinder)
Positive steps.. I'm going to check compression tomorrow.
I'm going to try resetting the throttle plates and get them aligned somehow....
-
9 minutes ago, footgoose said:
just a little note here.... the XS will perform better with the earlier 38mm carbs. The ones from the '75 model are set up the best imo
Interesting, I know the bs34s are hard to get right. That's why I went with modern CVKs from a Kawasaki Ninja, modern carbs feel leaps and bounds ahead of the originals.
-
3 hours ago, gstallons said:
# 1 for you benefit , run a compression test .
# 2 are the intake boots in perfect shape ?
# 3 can you disconnect each fuel injector connector and see how much difference it makes on the idle condition ?
# 4 do you think swapping sides with the injectors will give you a difference ?
3 3
Thanks for you continued interest.
1. I will tomorrow, couldn't get a compression tester until then.
2. Left is, have another in the post from (kindly donated by Stewgnu) so soon the right will be.
3. I could, won't it just not run at all on that cylinder?
4. Right now, I don't *think* so. I am feeling like if the right is pulling more air and the screw is closed, then it would make sense that the butterfly was open more that the left at idle? I want to be in a position to open both air screws the same amount, therefore the right butterfly needs to close. I think...
-
Ok... some things to note.
Both sparks are good and strong
But the left is definately rich at idle, sooty plug
Right plug is good.
I removed Meinhof's latest map, and wrote the standard map to the ECU. Surprisingly it started running a little better.....
To get it to sync up last time I had ended up with the right air screw all the way in, the left about 3 1/2 turns out, which is not great.
I wound the left air screw all the way in, the revs dropped but so did the stumbling, I got a steady beat from the left hand pipe, but then the throttle body sync was miles off.
So the RIGHT cylinder is getting too much air, the air screw is all the way in but the vacuum is much lower than the left.
The following video shows (aside from a fool who is very bad at filming /motocycle diagnosis) the following point:Standard map back on, both air screws fully closed.
Sync is off, right hand has less vacuum.Winding the air screw out (alot) and can bring the TBs into sync.
This seems wrong, and the issue is the right hand side having too little vacuum?
Please excuse the home made mufflers, the nighbours were going to get pissed off at me if it went on much longer so I had to do something!
I guess the throttle butterflys are not aligned, or I have an air leak in the right.
I found aligning the butterflys difficult, the ball joint seems to want to go on all too easily, like it's not precise enough to ensure the plates are aligned.
I tried gstallons method of aligning the other end after removing the eclip, bit don't dare much better.
-
1 hour ago, po18guy said:
By comparison, the XS650 is a reliable appliance. Alternator brushes every 15K or so and ride. As to Guzzi, I suspect that the company's products emerged from some sort of bizarre Fellini-esque drama-noir tale of death by slow descent into madness.
It's going to end up like a Giallo soon in the garage....
Yes, I have to invent my own problems with the XS... Like wouldn't it be somehow be better with Kawasaki Ninja carbs, or Honda CBR coils?
-
26 minutes ago, gstallons said:
This question is dumb , are both spark plugs NEW ? some older automobile garages have scopes and can measure the kV output of each wire .
Yeah, brand new plugs. There's a small indy garage down the road, I could ask there.
-
5 minutes ago, docc said:
If you pull a plug wire and put a screwdriver in it, holding it close to a grounded surface, see if both sides throw the same, bright, strong spark.
Will do, it's starting to drive me mad.
2004 V11 Sport Ballabio ITI Speedometer/Odometer repair
in Wanted
Posted
Sadly the body is 85mm, so the entire thing would not.
The internals are pretty much identical, bu the dial is bigger, if the dial could be turned down to 80mm then I believe the whole mechanism would fit into the ITI plastic case. The dials are not interchangeable because of where 0mph sits.
Here is a pic to show the Ducati gear you installed, the state of the old one, and the Ducati odo/trip gear and reset.