Grim
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Posts posted by Grim
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Sorry to dig up the thread, but I am having a hard time finding any suitably shaped tank pads in the UK, anyone found anything?
Thanks
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5 hours ago, Scud said:
I hope you got the oil screen sorted. It should only go in one way.
The hole in the screen frame for the bolt is off center, so if you have the plastic frame fully seated in the recess, there is only one position where you can install the bolt. Then it will line up perfectly with the oil-sucker-upper tube (which probably has a real name).
If the frame of that screen is not properly set into the recess, then stuff could get around the frame and the screen won't be able to block everything it is supposed to.
I think at some point it's either been installed wrong, or got hot and warped?
Basically it sits in the recess but one edge fouls it a bit, even installed correctly there is some rotation where the bolt can be done up, enough that when I first tightened it it meant the bottom sump plate was a mm or so off and I couldn't get the bolts in. Maybe I should get a new one.
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Installed Roper plate.
Actually spent most of the day scraping baked on insta-gasket from sump plate(s)/oil pump/everywhere.
Also, why does nobody tell you not to remove the oil strainer? Or at least index it so it isn't impossible to line up the sump cover on reassembly.
I was consistently about 2mm off every damn time I adjusted it, and I did not want to chew up my new (only)gasket.
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43 minutes ago, Gmc28 said:
Grim - I’d venture a guess on your relay situation that perhaps the weather was just right after you changed the relays and got the “turbine like” running. There are certainly days when a well tuned v11 will purr more perfectly than in other temp/weather conditions.
Well, it wasn't 90F today, my bike does hate the heat.....
The end of our UK heatwave
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Put in my Chinese (Made in the USA) Omrons, I could only get 2, so I put them in Fuel and lights/tach.
Not sure if it's a placebo effect, but 2 things have happened:
Mid range steady part throttle feels smoother, hard to describe but theres a turbine like quality around 3500-4000 where it all just feels sorted. This could be down to my endless tinkering/balancing, but it didn't feel quite the same yesterday.
My ITI tach is now only bouncing after bumps, so on a flat roads the needle is steady. This is different to the metronome like action it had before. The ITI tach isn't grounded inside the housing, it has a multi plug, is there anything else I can do to steady the needle on bumpy roads or are they just crap?The relay model is G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 OMRON DC12V, got them off ebay and they took a week to ship from China.
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Found and fitted this screen, not sure. I'm going a bit further and wanted something to keep the wind off on the motorway.
It's a Fabbri 3021, meant for a Honda Hornet. I had to try the mounts in every orientation before getting something close to fitting.
There's a bit of a gap at the top of the light, but I guess it's by design, as the bolt is going to be half way up the headlamp on most bikes with a round light, so the hight would have been no different on the intended Honda.
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20 minutes ago, docc said:
The "riser" is from the early Sport. Those forks do not protrude above the top triple clamp like the later V11, and so mounted below. The three holes provide selection of position while still connecting the clip on to the triple clamp from below.
Perhaps it was changed to accommodate the fork change? Perhaps to address complaints and reports of vibration. I'm not sure "why" translates into Italian, at least not at Moto Guzzi . . .
Hah, thanks!
Do you think they could be turned into 'risers' on a later sport? Nobody tried?
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I have a 2003 Sport naked with low clip-ons. I keep seeing 'high' clip-ons on eBay which look like they are a couple inches high, but the fixing tab appears to have 3 small holes compared to my one larger bolt hole, so is there another variation of top clamp besides the Cafe and Ballabio styles?
What I have:
What I've seen:
It looks like these are designed to go under the top clamp, but could these be adapted into slightly higher clip-ons above the top clamp? Why did they change the design?
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Eventually found a nice NOS fairing made by Fabbri, so at least it's Italian. I'll post pics when I get it, if it's not embarrassing...
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7 minutes ago, motortouring said:
A Tenni should have a brown leather seat, isn't it?
I think the seat went walkies... still, you could get a new cover?
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7 minutes ago, docc said:
Our own @Paradiso !
I wonder what it will fetch, very cheap right now!
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2 minutes ago, docc said:
me think a couple things about the V11 crankcase venting. Next tank-off, I'd like to inspect the lower banjo bolt and flow through the return line as @Tinus89 noted. Also, I wonder if this wetness @Grim showed us is lessened on V11 running Grade 4 or Grade 5 full synthetics (not the more common faux-synth using Grade 2 base or using Grade 2 "dino" oils. Heat evaporation is significant with these oils and absent with the Grade4/5 ).
Yeah, I am going to do a change with full-synth in the next few weeks ( and install my Roper plate, woo-hoo), so we'll see if that works. I feel like adding a non-return valve to the vent hose and routing it to the ground would probably be a good thing to keep the airbox clean!
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With a bit more investigation, it looks like the Monster light sits in a horshoe shaped frame that blots to the bottom steering clamp. This then has 2 bolt holes a tthe top, providing fixing points for the fairing, So that is a no go.
The Griso owner told me he though the supports bolted to the undeersirte fo the top clamp? So probably no good.
I must be doomed to get and aftermarker flyscreen, ugly as they are! -
2 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
I believe both of those options attach to the bolts that tighten the top triple clamp around the fork tubes.
I think you're right about the monster one, the Griso one has the plates attached to the screen, I can't seem to find any photos of how it might be attached.
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I heard whispers that since the headlight is the same, and the clocks are almost the same, then a screen from a 2000 -ish Monster 600/900 might fit a V11 sport.
I am doing a few bigger trips and noticed that constant 70/80mph is a bit draining.
I have found Universal screens like Puig fit straigh on the main headlight bucket bolts, but some are very ugly. I think an original Bikini would be best, but rocking horse poop in the UK.
I found this M900 one, looks like it fits the handlebar clamps!? So the chances of that fitting are slim
Also found a Griso one, did they use the same brackets and headlight?
Thanks!
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4 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
I just used 8mm EFI hose on mine. Even plain rubber hose is fine, it carries no pressure, it's just a vent hose. Same for the big hose from the crankcase breather. They seem to last about 5 years or so before they start to perish. They are in a hot environment.
Ciao
I like the shiny blue banjo...
On pre-pump in tank bikes the hose has to bend round the fliter at a wired angle too, so it hits the airbox at an angle.
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Yes it looked exactly the same, I added a hose clamp where the breather hose joins the airbox, as the hose is loose I didn't have a good replacement.
It won't stop the oil INSIDE the airbox leaking out around the plastic intake trumpet though!
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Spent a day taking the bike apart, cleaned the top gearbox mount areas and I can't see any cracks, all looks good.
I traced the oil to the bottom of the airbox, running down from the base of the loose breather hose, then down inner left an getting all over the general area.
I should add that oil has also run down the inside of the airbox on the left hand side and seeped out around the intake rubber, adding to the general oilyness in the area.
Anyway, good to have a cleanup with the tank and airbox off the bike
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Just a heads up.
Do not use a locknut on your adjustment rod....🙄
So I put this locknut on last time because I didn't trust the plastic nut not to move, but I just got everything in sync, left the bit running and as I held the plastic but in place and tightened my little locknut, I watched the sync go off by one vacuum inch. I guess it must squeez the nylon washer and pull the rod through a touch.
Jeez.
I did go over the intake rubbers again and do the valves yet again (using my tiny German 3.5mm spanner).
Well even with everything synced I need air screws out half a turn to make it idle with Meinhof's map, I didn't use the wacky sounding valve clearances though .003 for both?!
My idle still ends up at about 590mv.
But, the left is not missing, which is a win I'm my book!
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Is this the code for the Omrons?
G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12
It seems they are on eBay now, they were not available last year when I looked.
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1 minute ago, docc said:
Worth lifting those boots and seeing what is underneath. Mine was not only that corroded, but the metal connector had broken in two.
Have I asked you, lately, what relay you're running in Position #5?
I found some Panasonic CM1-R-12V
That seemed to for the bill. I see Omons might be available from China now.
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12 minutes ago, docc said:
True, that. I recall reports that the injectors are extremely difficult to extract, even on the bench.
@Grim, have you looked at the ignition wire under the boot where it leaves the coil?
Honestly, my coils look incredibly crappy, covered in mud and stuff. I guess the resistance was good so I left it at that, I have often dreamt of sticking some nice shiny coils on it..😌
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7 minutes ago, po18guy said:
You are setting idle with the left TB stop screw? Brainstorming here.
Right now I am yes.
I went with the method of backing out the right side and only using the left screw.
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Tech Spec Tank Grip
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Thanks, I'll ask them if they would ship to the UK