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Grim last won the day on September 19 2019

Grim had the most liked content!

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About Grim

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  • My bikes
    2003 V11 sport, 1980 Yamaha XS650
  • Location
    Stratford-upon-Avon, UK

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  1. Yeah, the guy who sold it to me is on here, and whilst it isn't his bike, he knows it well. The stack of receipts for regular servicing and replacement parts, along with the knowledge it's been all over europe (round the Nurburgring quite recently!) puts my mind at rest about how well it's been looked after. It has been well used (that's what they're for), and I guess after shelling out for a new stator, the mechanic couldn't source a stator housing at the time and did a repair. The owner was aware of this, and it has worked up till now. I guess as a new owner I'm looking to put things back to standard, and not knowing why it looked the way it did, put it to the forum for answers. I know that all I need is a stator housing, but finding one is proving difficult! Thanks
  2. So, here's a thing.... The exhaust collars don't particularly want to easily locate on the new studs, the old studs are a little bent, and rusted away to practically 6mm round on the non threaded part. Now, the old ones came out as bolts because of the rust, so I never had to get the collar off over the bolts, should it slide freely on/off? The threads on the head are clean and true, so I don't know if that mean my collars are warped or something? Given that my new studs are a little shorter, I would rule out the angle between the studs becoming more obtuse as they get further out. Update: Yes, they were bent... Quick introduction to Terry the 10 Tonne Press.... And we're on. So, how can I clean these things up, are they stainless? They certainly aren't magnetic!
  3. You'd love owning a Yamaha XS650 then.... I think Yamaha would claim the spring washers are "insurance".
  4. With brass nuts, I'm ashamed to say I just go with "tight.. but not too tight...." I have put spring washers in there for a bit of tension before.
  5. Hi, just thought I would post some more research, I was looking for exhaust studs, as mine had turned into exhaust bolts🤔. I found various near misses, but wasn't happy with the thread lengths. I certainly my did not want stainless (I have been stung before!). I discovered some Ford models have nearly exactly the same studs for mounting Weber DCO/E carbs, the inner thread and smooth section are exact, the outer thread is a couple mm shorter. Burton Power make performance parts for Fords, and so you can get 4 nice high tensile studs and 4 extra wide brass nuts for £10. I love brass nuts, it appeals to my inner (or outward) coward; that brass will go long before the stud or head (that is the theory). Here they are next to my old ones: And in, but not nipped up yet: Compared to other studs sold as "Guzzi V11" parts on eBay etc. they are nice and cheap. And I believe they are a quality part. https://www.burtonpower.com/stud-m8-x-45mm-inlet-manifold-each-studm8.html https://www.burtonpower.com/brass-nut-m8-extra-wide-nbm8.html Of course you could use the standard done nuts if you liked. Thanks for reading! Edit: I have looked into them a bit further, they are Weber DCO/E carb studs
  6. Couldn't bring meself to run an extra wire down the front and leave the gearbox drive just sitting there doing nowt!
  7. I've been doing a little bit of research and have found out 2 things, Japanese car manufactureres have teneded to use M22x1.5 threaded gearbox sensors with a tabbed drive, and Ford europe and other Euro makes tend to use M18x1.25 for gearbox sensors and have 3mm square drive; these are the both where the sensors that have a female thread -- I guess it was cheaper at some point to take the gearbox drive "as is" and adapt a sensor to use the existing drive. Guzzi used M16x1 (super fine) on the V11 gearbox speedo drive, which is weird enough given that earlier and later bikes use M12.... So the pitch is different, we cant use something like a helicoil as an adapter, bugger. Looking at thread adapters online, precisely none of them go as fine as 16x1, you can find M16x1.265 to M18x1.25 easy enough. Making my own at this size would be fiddly, so on to the Japanese M22 thread. I was aware of the limited space under the TB link, so didn't want to go mad on height, there are lots of this kind of thing about: But I felt this might go to high, especially with the wires coming out the top, I eventually found this: In the UK this is sold for Toyota land cruisers and Izuzu troopers, but it is common to loads of 90s Japanese vehicles. In the US I found it on Ebay listed as "VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR 3 MALE TERMINALS FOR 1998-2002 ISUZU TROOPER 8971297270". You can pull the tab drive out of the sensor, and luckily it is 2.5mm square drive behind there, just like the Guzzi speedo drive! So I purchased a (long) length of brass 2.5mm square rod. I also bough a waterproof Toyota VSS sensor plug, for the sake of being neat and tidy. Next I made up an aluminium adapter, M16x1 on the inside and M22x1.5 on the outside, I made it long and then cut it down to length, I also had to tap the crappy chinese brass(?) threads as they were a bit notchy: I could probably flatten this off a tiny bit more! Anyway, that is where I am right now, I should add there is a gasket inside there, so it should prevent oil leaks. Just need to wire everything up now and calibrate the speedo off the sensor.
  8. There are some vicious speed bumps in the UK.... Strange that the cover didn't sustain any damage, although there is the one broken thread. I suppose a pertenant question would be, what stator housings fit, it *looks* like 1100, Quota and Nevada 750 stators are the same?
  9. Thanks, do you think then, since there is clearly some bodging here, that there is something wrong with the stator? I figured it might be some kind of anti-rattle measure? I am happy to buy a new stator, just wasn't sure what was even going on here!
  10. Sorry, I'm rubbish at explaining... Here is a photo to show what I mean. What you can't see here is that the threaded part for the lower left bolt has been snapped off!! So I guess I only need to buy 3 bolts. Although the thread is questionable in the remaining holes, so a tap/helicoil might be in order.....☹️
  11. Cool, cheers. Any idea about the hose clip around the alternator? It's situated in the groove around the middle of stator, where you can see the bolts normally peeking through on their way into the block.
  12. Hello, After noticing a high speed rattle for a few days, it seems that 3 of my generator cover bolts have rattled themselves out down the road at some point. When removing the cover I noticed that there is a large worm drive hose clip around the entire generator body, is this some kind of attempt to stope the main generator bolts rattling out or is is supposed to be there? The generator body doesn't look cracked or damaged. Also, what bolts hold the cover on, M5 coarse thread? I guess thread lock is in order for re-intallation.... P.S parts-catalogue says no. GU98310631 6x30. Is there a way to read the part numbers for bolts like with Yamaha I see a 6 and a 3 at the end, but not sure about the pitch of the thread..... Thanks
  13. I have attempted to use a reverse drill bit to get the snapped off bolt from the airbox, it did not go very well! The drill did bite, but it is close to the threads in the airbox and it didn't loosen the bolt at all. I am not sure how to remove threaded inserts without destroying the plastic?
  14. Thank you! Believe it or not there is no clear coat -- I used something called "Simoniz tough paint" on top of standard plastic primer. I let it cure for a couple of days then used some cutting paste and then a resinb polish. After all this work I put the panels back on, looking lovely... Then I went to test my new tank/fuel lines... aaaaand the line to the regulator on the right of the tnak sprayed petrol all over my newly painted panel! Luckily, the tough paint lived up to it's name, and it appears to be petrol/ethanol resistant, so after another polish it was saved!
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