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Grim

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Grim last won the day on May 29 2020

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About Grim

  • Rank
    Guzzisti

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  • My bikes
    2003 V11 sport, 1980 Yamaha XS650
  • Location
    Stratford-upon-Avon, UK

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  1. Whilst it didn't solve it, it did give me peace of mind that I could rule them out, plus the old ones would have ripped eventually. What fixed it was re-setting the TPS, balancing the throttle bodies, then balancing air using air screws and a with vac gauge at 3k. Runs lovely now. Except I haven't ridden it during lockdown so I can't enjoy it!
  2. Thanks Noel, I did infact replace both inlet rubbers during my troubles! someone on a facebook group kindly donated them to me to see if it helped. Looking at the originals, they were cracked but definately not all the way through, so probably ok...
  3. Thanks Phil, I felt it was something to do with the battery, I don't get why they would put a bulge there in the seat pan!? Where the batteries lower in the short frame bikes? I'll try without the strap and see, I do have an upholstery stapler, so I could swap the covers over if I have to.
  4. Hi folks, So I bought a v11 seat off eBay, lovely condition, looked fine. Aaaand I've just spent an hour swearing whilst jumping up and down on it. My bike is an 03 I don't know the year of the new seat, I swapped the metal work across just in case and still no luck. The only visual differences are: My seat has rubber grommets where it sits on the frame, new seat does not. My seat is flat over the battery/ECU, new seat has a weird bulge with a sharp cutout around the ECU My seat has brassy metalwork, the new seat has silver. Apart from that things look
  5. Thanks! Here's a close-up, I used a Shin-Yo fender rear light mounted upside down, it fits great and is very slim, but bright.
  6. I guess there's no video section, but here is a little clip of my ride yesterday:
  7. I hadn't noticed before! I guess it's the last of the chin pad tanks, as it's a 2003 bike. I quite like the way it looks, slightly less "bunched up" at the front. @footgoose The exhaust hangers (and the cans) were custom made by a shop in the UK, which is why I couldn't tell what they were. I went back through the paperwork and found a receipt from Long Life Exhausts, in Bristol.
  8. Had a little go with the seat hump off, didn't want my rucksack scraping the paint.
  9. Aha, thanks for clarifying, yes we can turn the lights off on UK bikes.... I was wondering if I was going mad.. I had something similar in my imported Yamaha, "starter safety solenoid" or some other grand title. Took it all off and started again with that wiring!
  10. So, it looks like using the old Speedo light power is quite common, I am definitely being stupid here; my original speedo illumination comes on with my light switch, not with ignition.
  11. People who have electronic speedo conversions, where did you take a permanent +12v from? I am a bit aprehensive of running another dedicated live direct from the battery (has 3 wires on the + terminal already). I would like to find a fused 12v somewhere, although looking at the wiring diagram I don't think I'll find one!
  12. Sadly the body is 85mm, so the entire thing would not. The internals are pretty much identical, bu the dial is bigger, if the dial could be turned down to 80mm then I believe the whole mechanism would fit into the ITI plastic case. The dials are not interchangeable because of where 0mph sits. Here is a pic to show the Ducati gear you installed, the state of the old one, and the Ducati odo/trip gear and reset.
  13. Dragging this up from the past, if anyone gets here looking for answers, the gear that sits on the worm drive, and also the connecting gear up to the odometer are identical in the Ducati ST2/ST4/900SS CEV speedo. The face looks like this: The trip button is also the same, so it's a good source of 3 spare parts!
  14. Right, it's a tiny bit too big, so that's a no on direct fit. But the mechanism is practically identical, so the gear that sits on the worm drive for the Speedo/trip is the same part, as is the connecting drive and Speedo reset knob. So.... What is the best way to get the worm gear out? Bend the entire metal back plate down? Or is it better to try and go in from the front? It doesn't look like the needle comes off? Are they glues/screwed on? Seems delicate. Edit: prized the back plate down, put new worm gear in. Spent an hour tapping and bending the whole thing till
  15. I put a tiny little rear light on the back, to replace the small, but crappy light/bracket arrangement that I was never happy with. This Shin-Yo light is supposed to be fender mounted on the top, but I took a gamble on it fitting/being visible under the V11 rear...
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