DVH

Checked and rechecked the spacers and assembly nothing astray, working on jrt theory put the axle through the wheel, clamped it across two vices, with spirit level across axle to ensure its horizonatl, dropped a string line down from outside edge of tyre. The wheel is out by 5mm from the vertical. I managed to contact the previous owner this morning, he had sold it on because it kept eating wheel bearings, and his dealer never found a solution either what with the shock breaking, wheel bearings failing, gearbox spring, leaking gearbox, I am tempted to move it on It is thrown in the back of the garage in disgust at the moment, my 2000 model never gave a seconds problem in 18000 miles. this is a monday morning model time to sleep on it till morning and decide what to do with it then I think

I keep having problems with the rear wheel bearing failure, bevel box side, they are only lasting 3-400 miles. tried various makes of bearing in case it was a poor supply, buying them in bulk now. checked the spacer tube fitting, nice and tight, bevel box bearings and spacers. checked with the parts book and the dealer for correct spacer, washers assembly. ( when I first bought it , used, the spacer was too short and the rear was incorrectly assembled. the bearing fails by becoming notchy in use and what appears to be metal flakes around the ballcage, i have run out of ideas where to look next, any help much appreciated

I have downloaded both if anyone wants a copy sending snail mail I can burn a copy off.

Talking to my local dealer and he tells me that if you make a claim in the UK the engine is removed and shipped back to Italy for dealing with

this is a link to the vehicle inspectorate in the UK which only shows i recall http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/default.asp

Bring the bike if you come over, we could do the Lakes and scotland In the end I still find these the most reliable

The blutooth gave me reliability problems due to wanting it to run 12hrs at a time msotly when working in the van, therefore I used a wired receiver, otherwise I only got 4hrs out of Bt ( the wired a receiver can just be seen on the van photo ) the BT came with an external charger, the wired version draws power from the cigerette lighter socket along with the Pda. On the bikw I use an insulated jack plug just below the headstock to plug the power cord for the pda in ( I cut the cigerette plug off too big and bulky ) If you go this route make sure it is the socket that connects to the bike, the centre pin is batt + so there is no risk of shorting on the chassis. and the plug fits to the PDA/receiver lead ( be careful not to mix + /- at the plug and end up with it wrong at the PDA, they don't like it . Don't ask how I know I haven't used the bt on the bike I don't know if there is any electrical interference issues with it been so close to the ignition etc Have a happy easter Dave

http://www.totalpda.co.uk/Tomtom-Navigator...10-car-kit.aspx you would only need to buy the Pda on top of this, you might be able to do a deal for the full europe maps. the dell axim x3 is very similar in spec to the ipaq

the sd ariel is ok if walking, but the one I first tied was very unreliable,plus it takes power from your PDA battery so must be connected to a vehicle for long distance use. the one i bought with the vehicle kit is a tom tom item. it plugs into the right hand side of the mount I just rest it on the dashboard in the corner. the left connector is the batt supply, which charges the PDA abd powers the ariel. On the bike the pda sits in the map window of the tank bag, the ariel tuck underneath out of the way If you go the sd /cf card ariel bear in mind that your navigation maps are held on the sd/cf card so it must be able to operate both at the same time. As for price last year it was a Hp ipaq2210+tomtom europe maps+1gbcf card+vehicle kit(ariel,mount cables) from total pda £438 If you come to the UK do let me know would like a meet. I live in Leeds which is roughly central so it is very easy to get anywhere.

thanks for the offer of a meet, i extend the same offer should you come across to the uk. the routes are planned direct in the PDA, and can be saved for later use, you can plan 20 watpoints per route. but if you spilt the journey up into chunks save them under itinery you can use 20 waypoints per chunk example 20 waypoints through UK, load next part from itinary 20 way points through france, same for germany . etc etc however you wish to break the journey up. There is no limit as to how far the waypoints are are appart be careful with the europe software there is 2 versions [1 only has the major roads of europe on--- you can plan from one country to the next in one map 2 full europe mapping down to street level--- each country is loaded into the PDA from the memory card as you progress across europe ie drive through france approach border load german map into pda load pre planned route through germany. easy to do in the car with the stylus or a pen whilst driving , takes just a few seconds. A bit more difficult on the bike, it would just need to pull over for a few seconds to swop maps over then continue when I went to austria I used the major routes mapping to travel across, then switched to street mapping when nearing destination. I will take some photos of how it fits in the van and the bike tomorrow in daylight

no altimeter readings, but estimated time of arrival, current time, count down time to arrival, distance to destination ( all of which can be switched off if required ) present speed, compass direction. If you log into the gps receiver you can record your trip to play back on your map later, unfortunatley it plays back in real time I haven't found a way to speed it up in play back. Thanks for the links to cameras in europe, they will come in handy next time I am over, presently they cannot fine us back in the UK if caught sppeding in europe, but thats due to change. Good luck with the shopping , if I can help anymore I am usually lurking around the forums or e-mail direct

I have taken a quick photo of my present location, you can see how the scale view changes. tom tom will navigate with a wide view, but will automatically zoom in when a change of direction is required the green yellow spot is BP petrol station white circle red border with number in is a speed camera Have a look at www.pocketgps.co.uk go to doenloads and you will find a large database of files for different systems the one I use with tomtom is checkpoint for speed camera databases find a shop that has a wide variety of the type you are interested in and have a good play with them

Alex my PDA is blue tooth compatible, but I use an external ariel which plugs into the PDA cradle, this cradle also connects it to the 12v external supply should you require. I have found thsi more reliable than bluetooth. I cover mine with a small clear plastic bag sealed at the bottom when on the bike, If there is room I just put it in the map window of the tank bag points of interest can be downloaded from variuos sites, this includes the location of speed cameras, this is additional to the programme. see checkpoint site It give visual and verbal warnings of cameras routes can be planned using itinary, or just let it self plot from departure to arrival, any deviation from route and it will automatically re-route back onto course. the europe maps come on 6 cds so budget for a 1gb compact flash card if you wish to install them all at ounce www.totalPDA.co.uk www.checkpoint.oabsoftware.nl www.tomtom.com

I presently use a Hp ipaq 2210 with tomtom3 software, It has speed camera databases, garages fuel stations etc, etc. and can navigate to street level. IN General use I don't use it on the bike, just navigate by the sun. It is presently in the works van for daily use ( haven't used a paper map for 9 months.) january I used it in the car to navigate to Austria from the UK using back roads. Never got lost or missplaced once. One for the bike you need to look into one that is water proof Garmin springs to mind, Mine sits in my tank top bag,

I have a chance to buy some EP 80 oil at a discounted price ( castrol) , is this suitable for the gearbox and bevel box? the handbook specs EP 80/90. It does seem thinner than whats in at present. I have also heard some people adding molyslip to the gearbox/bevelbox, worth it or just more hype?

For what it costs I automatically change the gasket each time. As for the filter I fill it with oil, lub. the seal and make it hand tight never had a problem with them comming loose.

I remove the sump yearly to clean out the pre filter in the bottom and any sludge thats accumalated, I also don't have a lot of faith in the access plate not been damaged if it was used to gain access to the main filter. I only asked regards levels due to a dealer mentioning that they should have the level checked on the side stand and said i was over filling the sump. And this time i found the sump bolts had been loctited in.

Thanks on the way out to do it now before I forget

Just removed the sump and changed the main filter, Question is , 1 do you use thread lock on the sump bolts on reassembly ? 2 is the oil level checked when the bike is upright,? and is it with the dipstick screwed fully in or just resting on the threads ?

I used two micro relays which fit inside the bowl, parts price all in was £15, the original headlamp connector does not have to be cut off. If you use spade connectors, should a relay fail I can just unplug the harness and resort to the standard setup. sods law states it will always fail when its dark and needed. I took the + from the back of the starter motor just so that it doesn't overcrowd the battery area. all in, including soldered connections ( seal with shrink wrap ) takes about an hour. If electrics is not your thing work slowly and double check everything before switching on. check relay operation with the light disconnected, you will hear the relay switching as you opearte the light switch

I improved th lighting no end by rewiring the light, Iam now getting full voltage to the bulb, where before I was losing 1/ 1.5v at the bulb. the Bike light switch just operates relays in the headlamp shell, these are then wired direct to the batt with a fuse in line. I have seen the idea on a guzzi site somewhere

How's this for service took the broken shock into the dealer along with the wheel with the failed bearing, Monday lunch time, Yes sir I'll get that sorted for you I will put a claim in at Guzzi, takes about 24hrs for a response. Friday morning the same week, hello sir, parts are in. ready to collect With the bike already stripped down I decided I would reassemble it myself, the dealer offered to do it for me. I can't thank Jason at Moto Strada, Shipley, west Yorkshire. for his standard of service and customer care. I can highly recommend Moto Strada to anyone, within the area. As for the corrosion theory I am not convinced, there was no corrosion at all on the shock or mounting eye.

V11s Naked registered as a 2003 black engine, without front exhaust crossover Chassis ZGUKS 00002M112251 No number on shock In warranty until May dealer is waiting a response from HQ but doesn't think there will be a problem will know tomorrow

Just in the middle of servicing the v11s and I noticed what appeared to be a crack in the rear sus unit, stripped it all out, yep its failed 6700 miles up on a 2003 bike All was fine 300 miles ago when I was last under to bleed the clutch, the lower unit was cleaned and re greased at the time. I don't think it is dry pivots, more like over size bushes oh!! and the rear wheel bearing is rough as well, time for a chat with the dealer in the morning

a 2003 v11s has a slight miss between tickover and 3000rpm on a light or constant throttle. would only miss once then continue no problem for couple of mile before missing again, when it misses it doesn't show on the tacho. a bit touchy on wet roundabouts. It has had a set of mistral cans ( e marked ) and the fuel system etc set up at the dealer. Above 3000rpm or opening throttle no problem. the fault cannot be produced at will, was ok until cans fitted. can this be put down to the new cans or should I be looking for a fault elsewhere. Does ECU record error code to help trace this fault.