DVH

I just use a couple of car 1 ton axle stands under the pork chops to hold the rear up level. a piece of rubber or carpet between stops the chops getting damaged

grossohc I would use two 50a anderson batt plugs so that you don't have to keep having to disconnect batt connectors, Make up 1 lead long enough to fit under the hump and connect permantly to the batt, thus the plug as a way from the batt. fit second plug to your charger output leads. www.newbatterycharger.com/chargerplugs/ e-mail me and I will see if i can sort two out for you, normally have some on the van

here is a link to the odyssey batt site www.odysseybatteries.com/charging.htm a batt tender etc is ok for keeping it charged. an ordinary vehicle charger will only bring it up to approx 80% charged enough for the vehicle system to complete the charge once started. come winter I just remove the -VE lead and leave the batt insitu in the chassis. come spring and ride time, reconnect, press start, ride off. I have found these batts are more resistant to voltage loss due to the cold than a standard lead acid cell. As for cells suddenly failing its not uncommon, I work with forktruck traction batts and see it nearly every day a rough guide a starter batt likes to be kept fully charged a traction batt likes been cycled discharged and then recharged

A few thoughts fresh fuel, anything like uk fuel it goes off very quick when left stored fuel lines not kinked or twisted damaged fuel filter restricting flow tank breather clear TDC sensor on front of engine intact and not damaged Batt terminals secure and a good voltage present TPs sensor intact and not damaged spark plugs and leads intact and not damaged intake rubbers from throttle bodies to head are tight and no cracks or splits both throttle bodies opening together and link bar not come off

Grossohc have look at rs components if you have one near by rs components RS Stock no: 448-0309 Part No.: 740010430 In Stock £2.35 £2.23 £2.16 £2.09 £2.02 October 2005 catalogue book 3 - 1201 Water-repellent, work stable, non-melting silicone grease which possesses excellent dielectric properties. It is odourless and exhibits low toxicity. Suitable for use in sealing electrical systems, protecting against corona discharge and as a cable lubricant. Key Features: Low bleed at elevated temperatures Good low load lubrication Good water repellence Approved for use with potable water MOD approved

Thats the grips I knew there was a link somewhere with regards to these batts and charging, it is mostly aimed at HD bikes but I note there charge output is very similar /www.enersysreservepower.com/v_twin.asp

Had a quick test this afternoon, 23.6A @12 engine not running, Headlight through aditional relays, otherwise stock + Oxford heated overgrips, fuel pump running. Started engine 20.2A @14v, after allowing for batt recharging, from start up. at an indicated 1800rpm. this is 283w above 2500rpm i was getting a lot of fluctuations on the Volts and Amps, which I have traced to some crusty electrical connections. so they are added to the list of to do jobs this winter whild st its laid up so if you are running 60w heated clothing you will require 343w =24.5A@14v which would require 4000rpm to balance the system I.E below 4000rpm discharging batt, above 4000rpm charging batt

I'll dig out my clamp meter and try and get some readings this afternoon.

Hair dryer to remove old protectors To protect my tank I am using frisk film , a thin transparent low tack plastic film, usually found on goods with glass fronts to protect scratching. bought from art shops approx £7 5m long 30cm wide.

The insurance angle took some time to sort, everyone wanted to class it in the same group as a fireblade/ blackbird. that will be £ 545 please sir, Like hell, well sir it is a high performance machine according to our underwriter ( shows what he knows ) They couldn't get there heads around the fact it was the same as my V11s sport only with a nose fairing and ohlins fitted. My local MG dealer suggested I tried LEXHAM insurance brokers specialise in Guzzi. rang them, yes, heard of the rosso Corsa, Group 13 £289 fully comp £100 excess Protected No claims 5 points on license cover is with Equity Red star and the Certificate actually states the Model as V11 Lemans Rosso Corsa

Thanks guy's the frame and engine number match, the tenni part that is recorded by DVLA will explain now when I tried to insure it, it kept coming back as a tenni and most insurance brokers had never heard of a rosso corsa. including the likes of carol nash and bennetts, norwich union

I finally received the vehicle log book from swansea this weekend and its described as a V11 Lemans Tenni , colour Red, Hmmm All UK Rosso corso owners can you have a look at your log book and see what your guzzi is recorded as, DVLA tell me there is no such bike, according to there records from the manufacturer, only a Lemans or Lemans Tenni

Mines fine across the whole range. in a comparison with John in leeds, we went on a ride out together, his is a rosso corsa in standard trim and fresh from a service. he was getting 45mpg, mine 50mpg for the same trip. it pulls clean and hard through the gears. no pinging or hesitation. Engine braking was not as strong, tended to catch john up when throttles were rolled off to slow down.

I am the same as nogbad, when not in use it is parked up in the garage and left. come winter that means it sits approx 4 month. come spring just press go. batt is just left connected I would try a digital meter set to amps. remove all the pos leads from the batt, then test each one at a time to see what current is been drawn. ( meter is connected in series, 1 probe on pos batt terminal, second probe on the lead to be tested )

Mines on a set of MG Ti with matching ECU, ace sound, excellant fuelling. Refitted the standard ECU and cans to compare. The standard setup feels very flat in comparison

I would second that, rewired the last guzzi light with dramatic results. In standard format it was losing 1.5v through the system

mine cracked through at 6000 miles, sounded like a compressor at tickover, it first I thought the head was loose. took about an hour to change the pair

my shake down run is usually barnard castle--alston--penrith--lake coniston and back through hawes-- ripon and leeds are you up for a run out one weekend? Dave

Been out on a road test on a lemans rossa corsa, with guzzi race cans and ECU. do I really want to trade in a 2year old Honda Vtech. You bet, It really brings home what an ' appliance, plug and play' the modern japanese bike is-- no soul will I regret it , hope not, hopefully not another Friday/ monday morning special. Can't wait to collect at the weekend, just in time for the bank holiday, and put ome miles in.

Hi guy I succumbed to the guzzi again, its a roso corsa same as your photo, only supposed to be fitted with guzzi race cans with new Ecu, standard parts are with the deal. going to have a look this weekend. Glad the kit was ok, i bet the cans sound well with the baffles out.

I have a chance of a lemans rosso, 05. what should it have as standard compared to the basic V11s other than the fairing. Is this also the model with the twin plate clutch that has had reports of failure. if so what am I listening for other than the usual dry clutch rattle

Had the same fault, it would hiccup, every now and then between 3--4000 rpm, finally traced it to the intake rubbers between the throttle body and intake stub been split, making one pot run weak. would only do it on a constant throttle

looking at the wiring diagram connector 19 is for the injection relay, which would ground the relay contactor coil. I would be inclined to think there is a earth from the ecu missing which looks like connector 23 and 24. remove ecu relay, terminal 85 socket does it read to earth connector 57 is a +ve for the ecu relay contactor coil, also done the same as debenguzzi, left an earth off when refitting the batt i would be inclined to copy the diagram and leave it with the dealer, it is a lot easier to follow than the guzzi diagram, I assume the dealer has somebody who can read a diagram?

belfastguzzi, it is a 2002 model, the spacer was initially found to be out by 2mm, it was taken to a local engineering shop to measure up the spacer and make a new one to suit. they also measured up the bevelbox spacer. nogbad, I will check the bevelbox is square to the swing arm today, not quite sure how to go about that yet, i am well in with the local Honda dealer, who has a 2000 he can't sell, might see if he will lend me the wheel to try. Nothing lost by asking

it appears that the axle is not 90 deg to the wheel, the wheel possibly incorrectly machine for the bearings, this would explain the difficulty inserting the axle