audiomick
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Posts posted by audiomick
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9 hours ago, docc said:
This performance was a week ago in Chicago?
Obviously an offical, approved video....
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33 minutes ago, docc said:
The caps on the later V11 are NGK 5,000 Ohm resisters.
Then maybe one or the other of these. Looks like the same thing to me, just red or black. The inscript "5K Ohm" is visible on the picture of the black one.
https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkerzenstecker-NGK-LB05F-R-rot
https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkerzenstecker-NGK-LB05E
Edit: a closer look reveals that Mike apparently perpetrated a typo in the listing. The red one is listed as "LB05F-R", and the black one as "LB05E". In the text body, however, they are referred to as "LB05F-R" and "LB05F" respectively.
A look at what appears to be the NGK site turns up these, which are apparently the items in question, and both are 5K Ohm caps. As already mentioned, seemingly the same, except for the colour.
https://www.ngkntk.com/de/produktfinder/motorrad/zuendstecker/lb05f-r/
https://www.ngkntk.com/de/produktfinder/motorrad/zuendstecker/lb05f/
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I prefer the eagle at the bottom.
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4 hours ago, guzziart said:
... registrations expire on the owners birthday...
Happy birthday to you, too.
That arrangement has got to be for the convenience of the state. Can't see any other good reason for it.
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10 minutes ago, Scud said:
I don't like the idea of electronic cruise control on a motorcycle,
I haven't tried it on a bike, but going by my experience with the car I have, I reckon I would prefer electronic to something mechanical. Good, I haven't tried any mechanical systems either...
The thing is, the electronic cruise control in the car gets more useful if you practise using it, and use it conciously. I dare say, the usefulness of a system on a bike would be similar.
What I see as positive in the electronic system is that you only have to tip lightly on the brakes, and it turns off. I can't visualise a mechanical system that is so easy to disengage.
Apart from that, I tend to use the "don't go faster than xxx" function much more than the "hold speed xxx" function. The latter actually almost never. I could see myself using the former on a bike, if I had it. The latter probably not.
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Come on you blokes, we're talking about breather hoses here.
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I had a bit of a look.
First of all, I would tend to just replace both plug leads and caps. They are old, they age, and they don't get better with age.
I went looking at Stein-dinse, Wendel in Berlin, and HMB Moto (kennst Du den schon?). Wendel and SD both have plug leads, but list the original cags as no longer available.
Mike at HMB has leads and caps. The leads are cheaper than those at the other two.
If I remember rightly, the caps are just screwed on to the leads. Anyone here who knows better, please correct me.
The other end of the lead, which has an odd looking sheet brass fitting on it, is just plugged in to the coil.
So changing the whole business is no great drama.
Here are the parts at HMB:
https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkabel-V11
https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkerzenstecker-Gummi-rot
not "dirt cheap" perhaps, but I think once every 20 years or so is probably affordable.
Schöne Grüße aus Leipzig.
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1 minute ago, Tomchri said:
...do I spot something what we call an electro thief ? ...
"Stromdieb" here, and yes, I think you are right.
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25 minutes ago, docc said:
... I don't switch back and forth solo and pillion. Plus my pannier load-out and riding gear change very little.
That is the point, I think.
My GTR 1000 has a pump-up pre-load adjustment. Easy enough to get to behind the right-hand sidecover. If one has one of those little pumps to hand that are used for such purposes, also easy to adjust.
I barely ride the bike, now, but in the past I regularly changed the pre-load. The bike was used to travel to jobs several hundred kilometres away, often via the Autobahn, with fully loaded luggage. On other occasions, a friend of ours was regularly on the back seat for trips of several hours. When I was on my own for a short ride in the country, there was generally practically nothing in the luggage.
I now don't do the long trips anymore, as my work situation has changed, and the friend has back problems, so she isn't up for motorcycling so much. If at all, it will likely be the Breva 750 now. She wont get on the V11 again after trying it out once.
The GTR will be moving along to a new owner in the forseable future, because without the long trips I don't really have an excuse for owning it.
Anyway, in the light of past experience I can easily see the point of a remote pre-load adjuster. If the adjustment is easy to get to, there are circumstances under which one uses it, and it helps.
@orangem2 why not just ask the workshop you are intending to send the shock to if there is a remote adjuster available?
If there isn't, I gather Wilbers have something available. Quite expensive, but I have only heard good things about them.
This would be the shock, I think
that is without the optional hydraulic pre-load adjuster. To see the price with that, select "hydraulisch (Wilbers-PA)" from the drop-down under "Federvorspannung".
The optional adjuster is this one, I think
On the other hand, Öhlins is pretty chic....
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54 minutes ago, p6x said:
They should have opted for a coarser one, making it easier to engage.
I think it is a fine thread for a very good reason. Confirmation, for instance, here:
QuoteFiner threads are stronger as they have a larger stress area for the same diameter thread. Fine threads are less likely to vibrate loose as they have a smaller helix angle and allow finer adjustment. Finer threads develop greater preload with less tightening torque.[5]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Coarse_versus_fine
or here:
QuoteSuperfine pitch metric threads are ... commonly used in the aviation manufacturing industry. This is because extra fine threads are more resistant to coming loose from vibrations.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread#Preferred_sizes
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Well, that explains everything, I reckon.
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10 hours ago, PJPR01 said:
I'm a little surprised they didn't get a nice Porsche 911 Turbo S...
The relationships between Volkswagen and Porsche are incestuous enough that a Porsche would no doubt be as easily possible as an Audi.
What brand they actually get offered has probably as much to do with what the Volkswagen concern wants to advertise as anything else.
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Should you indeed discover loose magnets, the casings are available as a spare part. These three were among the first 6 or 8 hits for a search for "valeo starter motor housing". I'm sure you could find a supplier in the US.
https://www.bayermotor.de/en/product?info=6285&country_preselect_country=AU
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/d6ra-magccw.htm
Valeo revised the starters at some point, and added clips in addition to the glue to hold the magnets in place. If yours has clips on or between the magnets, it is the newer version and wont have the problem with loose magnets.
If there are no clips in there, the problem with loose magnets may well rear its ugly head, even if that is indeed not your current problem. When you have the thing apart, it may well be worth considering upgrading the housing to the newer version with the clips, if it isn't already a new one.
EDIT: for what it is worth, the starter in my 2002 Le Mans has the clips in it.
On the other hand, the bike has more than 65,000 km on the clock, and the starter looked brand new inside when I opened it. Maybe it has been replaced at some point.
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An addendum to the previous post: It occurred to me that I also pondered about the solenoid a bit.
The first part of its action is to mechanically slide the drive gear forwards to engage it with the flywheel. The second part, at the end of its stroke, is to close the contact to provide electricity to activate the motor itself.
I remember wondering it that was just a contact, or a switch. It is a switch. If I remember rightly, it requires a little effort to close it. Where to push is obvious when the solenoid is apart. There is a black button at the bottom end of the housing that the solenoid moves in that closes the switch. Function can be easily verified with an Ohm meter between the relevant screw contacts on the back end.
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On 3/15/2024 at 12:32 AM, p6x said:
Both should have gotten the exact same car....
Maybe they wanted exactly those cars?
Personally, I would prefer the A4 base over the A6, because it is lighter and more compact. And I've been in an R4 (no, wasn't allowed to drive it myself...). The thing is a farking rocket on wheels.
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Those links from @MartyNZ are good. I think they are the same ones that helped me some time last year when I had a prophylactic look inside my starter.
The only thing that is not quite obvious is getting the actual motor apart. If it has never been apart, there are two rivets in there holding things together. A close look reveals that they seem to be redundant, because there are also two screws holding things together.
That impression is correct. Drill them out and forget they were ever there.
The other thing to pay attention to in the guides before you start is the spring clip in this photo (from the article on advridder.com that Marty posted) that holds the brushes in. If I remember rightly, it looks like it should "just come out", but doesn't. Have a good look at it, and undo everything before you try to get it out. And practice getting the brushes out on the negative contact first. I broke out a tiny bit of plastic from the housing on the first attempt. On the negative side, that wasn't an issue, as the negative is in contact with the frame and housing and everything anyway. On the positive contact, that same little piece of missing plastic would have had me concerned about potential short circuits.
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@docc aren't we supposed to only use synthetic oils in our V11s?
Either way, I don't doubt what you wrote in the least, but rubber parts just get old.
If your old hose was still good (pun intended...), I reckon there was a bit of luck involved as well.
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The man is good, but as far as blokes the play an SG goes, my favourite is this one.
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3 hours ago, guzzler said:
Exactly where mine went too!
I dare say they all give up more or less there.
The motor is "rigidly" mounted to the frame, so the motor movement (vibration) relative to the frame is probaly fairly minimal.
The hose, however, has two long straight sections with a bend in the middle, and no support along the way. The vibrations caused by the motor have a significant sideways component, so the hose is going to be moving like the belly on a fat cat when it gets a trot up on the way to dinner.
The hose no doubt vibrates along its length quite a lot, and that no doubt puts stress on the bends at the ends and the anchor points.
Incidently, there are a lot of really good excuses for having a paunch in there...
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21 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Outcome. I now owned a bike I never particularly wanted to own and he thought I'd taken financial advantage of him and he never spoke to me again.
Good bloke, that man. No great loss, I'd say, if he reacted like that. Pity it cost you so much to find out.
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Hmm, sweating a wee bit of oil here and there, but looks good.
I kind of like it when the seller doesn't do a thorough clean on the bike before he takes the photos. It take that as meaning that there is possibly nothing to hide. Or he doesn't give a toss....
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1 hour ago, Gmc28 said:
.... i'd think the flow was decreased and the pressure increased downstream of kink, which is upstream from pump.
So the pump is sucking out of a bit of pipe downstream from a restriction (the kink). That means, as far as I understand it, that the pressure must be lower downstream of the restriction than it is upstream there of.
Anyway, as you say, getting into the weeds there a bit. The point that one should take home is that restrictions in the fuel line are not good.
I had that on the GTR 1000. I had installed a quick release between the tap on the tank and the inlet to the carbs, and not noticed that the extra length in the line was kinking when the tank went on. The symptoms were exactly like running out of fuel, but only at high revs and high load, i.e. above about 150 km/h on the Autobahn. Slow down again, and it all came good. The kink was causing it to starve of fuel under high demand.
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17 hours ago, Gmc28 said:
..ease the L-shaped “kink” in the line, ...problem solved.
So the theory is, it was developing fuel vapour bubbles in the line behind the kink due to the pressure drop from the kink, and these were causing cavitation problems in the pump, right?
Not questioning the concept at all, just trying to make sure I understand it. Thanks for the info.
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8 hours ago, Cabernet said:
The re-fill can be ... 220 (eek!) litres.
Do you tow a tank-trailer behind the bike?
HT lead replacement for V11 Sport 2004
in Technical Topics
Posted
That does exist, for instance these ones from Silent Hektik
https://www.silent-hektik.de/Zub_Kabel.htm
but in the case of the NGK plugs in the link, I'm fairly sure that is not the case.
When you are ready to attempt the change, pull the boot back on the cable side of the plug, and try and screw them off. Given that they are going to be changed anyway, there is no great risk in that. The advantage is then, that you know for sure how they are put together.
Having said that, cutting the leads back a bit (assuming you don't change them...) to give the new caps a fresh end to join to is probably a good idea.