luhbo
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Posts posted by luhbo
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I didn't want to say that, but these threads easily become somewhat dogmatic. Readers can get a completely wrong taste of EFI. It needs not to be so cryptic. A wideband probe with controller (so cheap in the meantime), an open ECU like Cliff's and some basic understanding of the main principles can make modern bike technique as understandable as the old bikes were.
I think most Guzzi owners want more than just to be able to check the oil, the tires and polish the plugs every now and then.
Hubert
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That's better then this, and you are wrong and I am not, and this is how it works and this is how it should...
IMHO this does no justice to anyone nor anything concerned here.
A good tuner does a good job, why not. And if you want such a job done to your map you will be perfectly happy with it. If you have been at a good tuner. This is not depending on what tools he uses, it depends on how he uses them.
I'm totally happy with my My15M for other reasons. I was not searching for the ultimate map or the worlds hottest sparks. For me the My15M was the key for a long time securely locked world of automotive "science". I knew what EFI was or is, but now I can play around with it. And I can see and feel what ARF e.a. make to an engine!
Over this winter I will install a new exhaust, the old one died unfortunately. So next spring I will have a different setup but I will not have to pay for a new map! The Optimizer will arrange it. And I will gain experience as well, because I then can see what effects these particular cans will have. BTW, what I'm already sure of is that the effects will be quite marginal.
I will not say this system is better then an other one. It's just the system that suits me and my preferences almost perfectly, that's all.
The anglos tend to say "I love it", hm, I love my wife, but at least I can say the "My15M" helped a very lot to make this V11 become "MyGuzzi".
Hubert
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Who knows. I know a Laverda enthusiast who once thought that there should be some filter element on the open Dell'Ortos. So he strapped an old nylon of his girlfriend over the intake. After the testride the filter somehow had vanished.
Hubert
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You won't probably hear much, there is not much to tell. I bought a wideband probe, adjusted the O2-targets in the map, hit the auto-optimize button on the optimizer and started commuting as usual. Remember, the MyEcu is closed loop capable, so it's able to do it all alone, and it does so!
I can only backup what Frank said. It was fun from the first day I got mine.
Hubert
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Hi Paul,
can you give details about the ign.advance of the 4-valve engine with one central plug? What is the advance curve under full load? The theory says it should be more like the one used for dual plugged 2-valve engines, about 24° max, but I never saw any information about this topic.
Hubert
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It does not make sense to me to have more air stop the pinging but mine was imediatly gone. I am not sure who posted this mod first but it was easy and it worked for me
What further confuses me over the more air thing and pinging is this year I picked up another lid and punched 10 holes in the lid for more air flow, added the PVC snorkles (In my mind the holes in the lid would negate any benifit of ram air but the ping still has not returned). So, I'm not sure if it was the induction mod, exhaust, gas change or just breaking in but no pinging.
That's the point. Do you see any possibility that these mods did not rise the amount of delivered air as you assumed they would?
I mean, you had a bike that pinging, you made holes and things to the airbox and the pinging was cured. Others give more gas and achieve the same effect. So I think the modded airboxes need not automatically mean an improvement.
Hubert
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Everything from bad combustion chamber design to low octane fuel. Mine cleared up with premium fuel, opening up the intake snorkles, and changing cans. I do not have a PC-III (it's coming) but it seems that a PC-III with the proper map, and dialed in, fuel managment is where it should be.
.................
In my eyes that's most interesting what you write, but in the first line not because of the pinging. You opened up the snorkels, I guess you removed them, and that already made the pinging a bit better. Others say that enriching makes pinging also better. So, could it be that removing the snorkels enriches ARF? That's exactly what I could experience.
Last week the left of my (or her?) snorkels fell down (missing fixation) and got melted on the exhaust. I then removed the other one also. As I use the My15M of Cliff Jefferies in closed loop mode I can clearly see that the bike now gets less air without the snorkels. The optimizer shows correction factors of -5 to -10 percent!
If you see this values and then also hear the anoying "woooooo" when you open up the throttle you think the bike runs bad (to use a friendly word). Now I really have a hole between 4 and 5000, just because there the airbox really sucks. I'm sure I do not really notice a loss of power, just because there is enough of it left, but less air of course means less power.
Hubert
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This spring I had my N/C computer charger toasted AND my Hawker flat the same time. I decided to use my old 4A automotiv cheapy anyway. The trick was to clamp on a front bulb in parallel so that the voltage at the poles was always around 14.6 volts. It was risky but worked perfectly.
Hubert
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13.6V would be more reasonable. Does the voltage go down when you stop the engine? A freshly charged Hawker can show 13.2 also. When I remember right 12V at the poles indicates a nearly flat one! That's different to old acid blocks.
I don't know your experience, anyway be carefull when you fidle with the alternator/regulator/battery things. The ecus seem to be quite prone to dammages following any mishaps with these components.
Hubert
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For me this sounds more like as if your valeo starter has thrown one or even more mags. I experienced this last year myself. One magnet got loose and then damaged his neighbour.
The loose mags rest on the anchor 'till you press the start button. In this moment they jump from the anchor to the housing and against their neighbours, just to smash back when you let off the start button.
If your Hawker is new it is most unlikely that it is already damaged, albeit a defect starter produces a lot of current and a non electronic charging device adds its part to kill even a new Hawker very fast.
The voltage must never exceed 14.6 V while charging! You should have an eye for that.
Hubert
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Just to keep things burning
Aren't you talking about two different things, some about one single monster spark and some about three or even more tiny sparks shortly one after the other? This multi spark solution sounds logical and well working, but I know these multi sparkers only as capacitor based units. The big disadvantage here is that they create only very very short lasting sparks, not suited for big 4-stroke engines, the more as these engines nowadays tend to run a bit on the lean side.
Hubert
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Some of the MSD's are quite power hungry and the somewhat puny MG system may not be able to keep up with the electrical load. You'd just have to do your specifications appropriately. However, the advantage to the dual plug stuff is that the Guzzi combustion chamber (as I understand it) is not a very ideal one and it's difficult to get the flame front cleanly across the entire volume. That's where the dual plugging excels. Just doing a better job of lighting off the mixture in one spot will probably not give as good of results as lighting off the mixture from two locations. I suppose the best analogy would be burning down a forest. It'll burn down faster if each end of the forest is set on fire at the same time vs just one end. MSD's probably work best in combustion chambers where the spark plug is central to the ignition volume like on the 4 valve engines. And again, since I am by no means well acquainted with this stuff, I could be completely wrong.
Sorry, I didn't read Carls posting. He already had said everything!
Hubert
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I would not recommend the use of such spark wonder generators! They are not worth the money and time you spend for it. Maybe there was some reason for them with the old contact ignitions, but also only in some cases.
You cannot compare such stuff with dual ignition heads at all . Two valve engines all have disadvantages related to ignition advance, especially those with high compression ratios and big valves as Guzzi has. The resulting combustion chamber is everything else but compact. That's pre-war technology, over here this means from 1930!
Dual ignition is the only way to make this anachronistic system a bit more efficient and up-to-date. If you don't go this way the standard ignition gives enough igniting energy.
Just look at the housings and names of all this wonder stuff! It's just 'Pimp My Bike', bling-bling for tech-freaks.
Hubert
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Still can't seem to find it using search...
HOW ESSENTIAL IS THE FRIGGIN' TRANNY RECALL ANYWAY? Because firstly I am fed up waiting, and secondly I am a true believer in the philosophy that goes: "If it ain't broke, why fix it?"
(An idea that seems to be lost on most governments it has to be said)
My 2000 Limone got the call also. The previous owner was deaf, I am so as well concerning that. It now has about 50.000 km, is absolutely tight, easy to shift, makes no noises and so on. I am not sure what it will be after the preventive repair action. I will definitely not go to a shop before something breaks. That's an other point: you have to visit a shop for this or they won't give you the parts for free.
Hubert
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Hi guys,
Getting soft is not yet in my vocabulary Chris. Indeed I rode my Laverda Jota to the Laverda rally. And back. When Pierro Laverda [THE guy] found out we had ridden our old tractors down there, he was quite emotional about it. So impressed that in absence of no long distance award for non-trailer queens, he and his son Giovanni awarded my bike best 180 deg triple and Robert's Mirage second best 180 triple, even though they were quite soiled looking from bugs and rain. ....
Meeting members of the Laverda family is always a very enriching experience. At this meeting he had the V6 with him and an original 750SFC also.
http://www.motalia.de/laverda-treffen_bild_1.html
Besides telling very interesting stories about the developement of this ship and lots of sometimes quite amusing episodes from racing it, he let the bike scream quite liberally throughout the night. He really made courses how to treat it. "You must pull up and then let the throttle snap, that's important....No, no, no, wrong, look, this way!" woah, woAH, WOAAAAHHHH! "OK, try again!" The V6 at 6000 min-1 in full endurance trim at 2 o'clock in the night!!
People were much too carefull with this icone, but for him it was not a museum inventory, maybe he himself was trying to get or to keep his memories alive.
I can say the same, great to get reminded to that.
Hubert
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Doug Lofgren shows an IMHO simple and effective method to estimate wether tuning makes sense or not. Just two WOT runs, one stock and one with the mods you preferably want to buy. He monitors AFR besides the torque. So if your bike shows less power and goes richer also, it makes no sense to invest in this configuration. That's how I have understood his articles.
Hubert
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Because fuses are slow? Because they burn under high currents but not necessarily under high voltages?
I have heard that in most consumer electronic devices the inbuilt fuses are not meant to protect the circuit, they are just there to interrupt the current so the device won't catch fire.
Hubert
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So, let me get this straight. Whenever the pump is in the circuit, the coils etc don't work.
There isn't much on that circuit. The injectors, the coils and the pump. Pump not connected - everything works. Pump connected - nothing works. So it has to be the pump, but the pump sounds like it is pressurizing normally. Was the pump energized while it (the tank) was off of the bike and at that point it sounded normal? Speculating.. ............................
The pump draws maximum current when the pressure in the system is lowest. It's not a piston pump, it works like a turbine. Minimum pressure gives maximum flow or maximum work that leads to maximum current. If it rotates the wrong way, then there is either no difference or the current is lower, because it works less. Should the pump stall because of too much pressure then the current would go down also. Such pumps don't get blocked if they stall, they just rev faster.
If the pump has a electrical defect, then there is a good chance that a fuse would blow because of that shortage.
What voltage do you measure at the pump or at the coils, when the pump runs? Before and after the concerning relais? Or before and after some concerning connectors? The pump does not have to be defect, it's maybe just the one component of the three mentioned by Carl that draws the most Amps.
Hubert
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I like this thread. Do you pay them or do they pay you? Have they already checked the fault memory of your ecu? Have they cleared this memory (CTRL-Alt-Del!) Have they tested another ecu in the bike? Was this ecu then down the same way? Do they have the testing equipement for such actions? Have they asked at MG USA already what to do now?
The schematic of carl is bright and clear, indeed! You can find the same information in the drivers manual and also in the shop manual. Everything else is in the software. There will be no step to step guidance through exactly this problem.
I would pop up at their door, politely ask to test a spare ecu and then, if it works, claim this ecu as now yours. Maybe the ecu fell down and the pcb broke or the cat pissed on it or whatever else could happen has happened. They sure won't tell you. Maybe also the mechanic not wants to tell his boss what he has done.
I mean, you are the customer, they run a shop. They even have a web page, all in racing red and so on. Besides, why don't they call their shop 'Moto Italiana'?
I know, this is not really some positive writing, but I never came over something like that before. A shop tillts a bike and then asks the customer to make a internet research in order to get his bike back on the road again. What do they do in the meantime when you are busy trying to get the informations they need from you?
Hubert
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Look here for information about stock crossover
http://www.visi.com/~moperfserv/mgv11ex.htm
and here about info of removing the snorkels and other things
http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/v11sport.html
Don't know wether the links have been mentioned already.
Hubert
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I have something similar. I just fed up the slot from about 8mm at center to approx. 1.2 at the tip (just enough for the wire) with a plywood strip. I think this is way enough, because more would make it impossible to open the throttle with one grip. I had to enlarge the mounting hole in the center of course, now it looks a bit like the one from the throttle sensor.
Hubert
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Opened up the guts of my MG to remove the shock. There was an unconnected (!) sensor wire just roaming around under the tank marked "carb". "olio" is simple enough italian for me, it must go to the oil sensor, but what is 'carb'? Could it be that my bike was never connected to the throttle sensor? Hoo boy, no wonder it's running lean.
So, I should have connections for air temp, oil tem, rpm and throttle , right? Can anyone translate these wires from the italian written on them?
thanks,
Dan
If it was teh throttle sensor, it wouldn't have worked. Maybe CARB stands for "carburante" (and then should go to the tank) or something like that, especially as there never was a carburetor on the V11.
Hubert
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MyECU installed on my 2003 V11
in Technical Topics
Posted
It's always the same question: how do you measure AFR! You can not measure AFR, it's just a mathematical expression, maybe. Insisting in this is one thing.
I have the opinion that one should keep in mind that it's normaly very hard to measure current for instance. Of course you can count the electrons and measure the time and calculate how many of them went through a certain cross section and so on. Or you can just measure the temperature of the wire, or use electromagnetic effects caused by these electrons. No one will say using a simple Ohm meter is useless, you have to count the electrons. Or think about measuring influenza. You can count anti-cells or anti-bodies (however you call them), or you just shove a thermometer into your sons mouth. In 99.9 out of 100 cases this will be accurate enough to decide wether he will go to school or not this particular day.
Hubert