luhbo
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Posts posted by luhbo
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If it's that easy you can have it everyday. Aprilia did it already, just changed the color and a bit plastic and, voilà, ready was the new Laverda.
At least they thought so...
Hubert
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Mine was not opened also. The dealer of the previous owner told him it would not be really necessary so they left it closed. Gears like it dark, he said.
Now that I own the bike I ask me whether it would make sense to look after this anyway.
Can anyone point me to where I find a detailed description of what parts should be changed, please? What was the quality issue that lead to the recall? Hardening fault, bad tolerances, or what?
Thanks for your input.
Hubert
BTW, the box worked absolutely flawless for 55000 km so far. Thats why I'd like to know what the fault was. Maybe there is a chance that not all bikes suffer from that.
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I can understand the need for such a thing on a Ducati with the two cylinders running under different conditions (cooling + intake and exhaust lenght), but on a Guzzi where both cylinders are compareable regarding running conditions, it seems as overkill to me?
/Jens
www.guzzitech.dk/english
Unfortunately not! The biggest problem regarding this probably is the assymetric spark sequence (90° offset), so the filling of the right and left cylinder should be seriously affected by the resulting assymetric ressonance effects both in the airbox and the exhaust system. Just try to calculate the optimum length of the exhaust for a given RPM and you'll notice this.
Next have a look in the airbox (so you still have one). Caused by the longitudinal cylinder offset it looks as if one snorkle gets less air then the other.
BTW, the OEM map of the WM-ECU has a very differenciated offset map, so they see the need of such a possibility.
And what about differences between the injectors? It would be interesting to see how they perform.
All in all this is probably not overkill, it's just a must!
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Personally I see not that much importance of WOT runs over the whole RPM range, although some others do. You can start with about 25% throttle as well. Or 50 or 75%. Just make sure the gas grip position corresponds to a certain map cell.
A WOT run in 2nd or 3rd would be just a bit quick.
For perfect tuning results I think it is important that the engine runs more or less static while you manipulate the actual map cell. On the road or on a dyno the engine sweeps through a certain RPM range. 6th gear and going upside a hill flatens this sweep rate.
It depends also on how fast your gas sensor reacts.
Hubert
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Exactly! Take a piece of ascending highway, put in 6th gear, "Wack" the throttle and let the controller do the rest! It's all that easy.
If you want more but a WOT curve, then return, open the throttle only up to the next throttle break point and repeat the ceremony.
If you want more but a (one point lower) curve, then return, open the throttle only up to the next throttle break point and repeat the ceremony.
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(No dyno cooling time to look after! Just go on here...)
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What I forgot is the selection of the proper O2 targets for every cell. 13 everywhere is not a bad value to start with.
I'm glad I bought mine! Jens, you'll like yours too
Hubert
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It is the current itself. If you keep pushing electrons into the battery after its chemical capacity to store charge is used, all that happens is that the water in the electrolyte breaks down, and the cell becomes dry as just mentioned.
If the charger gives more voltage than the maximum fully charged voltage, this will happen at a rate proportional to the resulting current flow....
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A good book couldn't explain it better, could it?
My Schulze "Computer" regulated R/C model charger goes up to 5 Amps. An empty Hawker takes these 5 A at a very easy 13.4 V. Fully charged I see 150mA at 14.7 V
Hubert
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I can live with the long throw shifting, clunky, slow shifting 5spd. I should of been more exact on the problem I want to fix.
When shifting at red line in 3rd gear, I have to put my foot under the shift lever and pull in the clutch, pull up on the shift lever and keep pressure on it while I slowly release the clutch (all while praying it goes in). Hopefully, I do not ...
Stop riding it and open your box! What you describe is exactly what I once had. A lifetime experience, having caused it all myself! Opened a perfect gearbox just because it was winter '83, the box was out and I was curious. Of course I missmatched the shims (three in front and three at the end seemed reasonable). The result was boiling oil, blue gears (the groove) and lots of silly speech.
A well and especially tight shimmed 5-speed box is a dream and would suite the V11, too!
Hubert
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All my personal experience says that this is a typical problem of proper shimming. Guzziology explains a very easy way to do it yourself, way better then any measuring and stuff!
It could also be fact that the related claws are already worn out, but then the gear would also have a tendency to jump out.
Hubert
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The ECU is held with similar rubbers, but I'm not sure about the size.
How does the other side of it look?
Hubert
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No, it's not the Watts, it's the Volts (you cannot separate them anyway). As soon as the voltage goes higher but 14.6 V the battery starts bubbling, in this case the Hawker will blow off the gas and so become dry. The concept of the Hawkers is different to common car batteries, but the chemistry is the same.
If I have to use my uncontrolled car charger I add a bulb parallel to the clamps after some time. This helps to keep the voltage below 15V. But it's always a dangerous thing to use cheap chargers on such pricey batteries.
Hubert
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It always makes me wonder how those guys manage to climb vertical walls with these trial bikes. I never could see this in reality, but the pix in my books are quite unbelievable. Would be impressive to see one of the oldtime UK heroes on big 4-stroke twins doing such things.
Hubert
PS. All I can read about and see myself abroad makes me a strong believer that the promissed land for bikers actually is Germany. Nowadays they have radar pistols even in Italy, and those fellows there - they have fantasy prices if they get at you!
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Not really. What caused his actual probs was more the disconnection (or shortening) of part 37.
Hubert
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I was quite seriously searching for a good exmple. But I neither found a bad one. They seem to be quite rare.
Hubert
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Life can be simple, and to have fun with it it should be kept so, indeed!
Let me trow in just two other questions:
- why do engineers at BMW, VW, Mercedes or if you want GM, Rover, Guzzi, Weber-Marelli, Bosch and so on, why do they not just buy a cheap dyno, a cheap Tunelink and related stuff? Why do they not just make a quick WOT run and then after that enjoy their easy life with all that much money they get for having fun the whole half day?
- what do you think is the reason for inventions like those most of the Jap bikes now have implemented in their exhaust systems? I'm talking of these exhaust-throttle systems, however they call them. It's basically the same, a throttle flap or blade, controlled by the ECU.
If WOT would be the only important thing, then why not WOExhaust as well?
Max power probably will be found somewhere at WOT, but surely not over the whole RPM range we use our bikes at.
I really cannot imagine that tuning the entire range of Max. Load points to Max. Power can be achieved with a quick dyno run for 150 to 300 USD. Alone the price is ridiculous. These prices can be found in the ECU thread and are not of my origine. How long will it take to mount the bike on the dyno and to unmount it when ready? Are there any costs while the dyno stands still, letting the engine cool down?
The max.load points probably vary from some 20% throttle at low RPMs to WOT at higher RPMs. If you have found and tuned them you should of course smoothen out the rest of the map above and below this string of max.load points as well.
That's basically how I think mapping and tuning should be done, regardless what tools you use, O2 probe or EGA, dyno or break, TuneEdit or PCIII.
This is work, probably hours of work. What do think this should cost? 150 or 300 USD? More? Maybe much more? You have the saying "You'll get what you pay for!"
And those who yet don't have enough could mind about things like spark advance, ECUs in acceleration mode while sweeping on the dyno, ECUs in normal mode when more or less static on the road and so forth.
I mean, have fun with your bike and stuff, but don't loose track. To supply a USB interface and software for everyone is not neccesarily the solution for all your problems with your toys.
Hubert
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That's not really true, if not just wrong. First, WOT is not more but WOT, throttle fully open. Load instead is a result of the effectiveness of delivery at a certain RPM (if I translate it correct).
In other words: the output depends on how much input you have, and this input, the amount of burnt Air/Fuel mixture, is not necessarily proportional to the opening angle of the duct blades.
Second, you're rather seldom on a straight, unobstructed line. The rest of the time the bike is accelerating (to focus only on the interesting part), and best accelerating on the road IMHO can be achieved only with the proper throttle opening, unless you are on the track and rev it only between 6000 and the limiter.
Pictures that show WOT curves from 1500 to 8500 RPM with underlaying AFR curve are more or less senseless.
Hubert
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MPH has this one & its got all that stuff Maund seat , coated pipes, carbon cans, stooky x over & whole lot of other stuff. Plus it's pre Aprilia Just my
http://www.mphcycles.com/Used%20Bikes/Used%20Bikes.htm
Oh, BTW I really like this bike
And for europeans it would be quite cheap also! I'd grab it and sell mine. I paid 5200,- Euros for my green 99/2000 with 45000 km on its back.
Hubert
Why Won't it start
in Technical Topics
Posted
Sorry, can't really help you with your starting issue, but it should be not to big a problem.
But, do reinstall the sidestand switch! This sidestand isn't comparable to what you may have had before on other bikes.
The constellation you ride actually does kill!
Hubert