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luhbo

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Posts posted by luhbo

  1. I've mine completely removed. Saves fiddling time and also the risk of a closed hose. So far without ANY problems.

     

    When I remember right the hose was on the overflow connector. I had it bended once. The result was that the rain water couldn't be drained. So when I opened the tank a really very good portion of water got inside.

     

    Somehow it went through as well. I think I was lucky then.

     

    Hubert

  2. Who cares? ;)

     

    Seriously, what is the difference whether it starts glowing 50km or 80km before exitus?

     

    Never mind. I've been looking under my tank today and I think the pressure valve will probably interfere with the gas cable mimic.

     

    Hubert

     

     

     

    Does anyone know for sure if the fuel pressure regulator and level sensor are each fully functional in the other's OEM location? :huh2:

    89835[/snapback]

  3. So the fastest way to reach an improvement would be to just switch sides for fuel indicator and reflow valve, enough space for it assumed.

     

    Should one strand because of any missinterpretation of the yellow light, this way he could at least effectfully lean over the bike to drain the right part. Maybe it's a good thing if he removes all the luggage before doing so.

     

    Hubert

  4. I like the petcock idea because I don't like this idiot lamp going on and off everytime I break or accelerate and even more than this I misslike the cables that are connected to it. I already had to replace the silly electric valve with an old cubic aluminum petcock when the cable fell off one day.

     

    It's just the wrong procedure. Enter the bike, open the petcocks, press the start button with the left hand while supporting your body with the left ellbow on the tank. That's what people expect. Fortunately Guzzis still don't have a "wheewhee" starter. It's a question of how you've been conditioned...

     

    Hubert

  5. Interesting!

    The last few quarts being inaccessible may be a vapor lock risk reduction feature :wacko:

    My bike has not had vapor lock...yet.

    So, I may risk it....but I will set the return side to reserve.

    89717[/snapback]

     

    David, this is definitely one of my favorit ideas that I could read on this forum. As soon as I have two conventional petcocks at hand I will try something like this.

    Another, probably more complex solution that I once had in mind was to somehow add a piece of tube to the pressure regulator, so that all that backcomig fuel is blown over the top right into the left part of the tank.

     

    Hubert

  6. Do you have the correct color number and the manufacturer?

     

    My neighbour's son went into his Ford shop and looked after Guzzi Green. The next day he showed up with a perfectly matching color card and number and manufacturer.

     

    But, it's not perfectly matching to all the green parts on my bike, just to the front fender.

    Fender, tank, seat parts, side parts... each shows a different green when in sunlight :(

     

    Hubert

  7. ...Cliff's MY15M Kit is about $300 Not sure what the assembled and tested price is. Awesome!

    Cliff's ECU provides everything that the combination of DirectLink and VDST do, and then some! Map, diagnostics, closed loop and more!

    86985[/snapback]

     

    Last time I contacted him he announced an autotune-option for both cylinders separately and also the possibility to log lots of megs of performancedata to an onboard SD- or whatever card (like in digicams). However, at least such things are in his pipeline.

     

    Hubert

  8. Slowly this seems to turn out as an Adults Only topic, especially when we talk about pulling sparks out of screwdrivers used to bridge solenoid contacts. Nobody mentioned this method so far, but that's what probably most people would do if they try to make contact between terminals that are not explicitely designed for every day's connectors or connectors they have at hand actually.

     

    And yes, starters do jump when they get activated. Sometimes quite surprisingly!

     

    Hubert

  9. OK, still no go here in West Seattle.  I would have gone to VME tonight otherwise.  I did get the starter to "click" a couple of times.  Sounds like it engages the flywheel but then there is a whole lot of nothing.  Here's what I got:

    ........

    Matt

    85218[/snapback]

     

    Try this. Remove the green starter cover, press the starter button, hold it, and when you here the solenoid click then give the starter a boost with your favorite hammer or at least the one you have at hand.

     

    This cured mine once.

     

    Hubert

     

    And for sure you made sure that your battery is good, didn't you?

  10. If you can hear the fuel pump, then it should be something different.

     

    Hubert

     

     

    OK, I'm new to this common problem.  Good to know I'm not the first to do the wrench across the hot post to the ECU box.  Wondering if there is a way to bench test the ECU to see if I did smoke it?  Could I have fried the Relay in the process and not the ECU; keeping the bike from starting?  We're talking a '00 V11 Sport Magni.  If it helps, the bike is green.

     

    After installing the battery and wrestling with the leads, I made the blunder.  Now, when I hit the starter, the relay clicks, but I get a whole lot of nothing after that.  That's why I thought maybe the Replay went bad....or is that wishful thinking. <_>

     

    Thanks in advance for your help.

     

    Matt

    Seattle

    85045[/snapback]

  11. Everything I've read suggests that, to achieve what you want, you should have two separate exhaust systems.  No crossover at all.  That way, you can tune each cylinder precisely, without interference from the other.

     

    mike

    84322[/snapback]

     

    That's basically exactly the same as how I think things work. The V engine always has this 90° offset that makes it impossible to tune the cylinders properly.

     

    But, IMHO the very small volume of a 1 in 1 system probably would be more counterproductive to noise and power then the above mentioned 90° angle.

     

    Hubert

  12. Breaking the rev wall makes not very much sense without either bigger injectors or an other pressure valve with 3.5 or 4 bar. Both will negatively affect the driveability at low revs and low loads.

     

    MV Agusta e.g. choose instead of big nozzles a second one for every cylinder. So they can precisely inject small amounts at low revs/loads and also give the engine the full load at WOT.

     

    Hubert

     

    Rereading the initial post I saw the word "carburetors". In this case it's different, of course! Sorry...

  13. It was everythin stock (airboxwise), only the snorkels were removed, cause one fell down and got soldered to the pipe.

     

    I did test it with a probe, going closed loop with a my15m.

     

    Removing the whole upper half of the airbox may be something different, but you must love the resulting noise to bear it. Already without the snorkels it is too much for dayly comuting.

     

    You must love poh-plumbing as well to bear the look of that on your Guzzi. Especially with tape fixing. Besides, these PVC tubes are technically absolute nonsens when used as air intakes. This just cannot work the way some hope it would.

     

    Hubert

  14. My understanding is that removing the steel wool will not reduce the tendency for any resonance frequencies. Au contraire, you removed the damping elements, so any resonancies probably will become even sharper.

     

    If you take a closer look at the mentioned dyno results and investigations you will find that the stock crossover is not the worst solution. It seems to be better than the Mistral or Agostini x-over at least.

     

    Personally I really appreciate the mellow tone this part gives together with open cans. The other solutions are sounding to hard for my ears, to much Ducati.

     

    I'm happy with my standard x-over and can't find anything wrong at it.

     

    Hubert

  15. Example of german cuisine?  :grin:

    80840[/snapback]

     

    Yep, in carneval. Normally they are filled with honey (in fact it's rose marmalade) but sometimes you may get a mustard one. Nice surprise...

  16. I'm always in favour for broadening horizons and blasting through the barriers of conservatism...

    Now The Jaap has put a Cali on the frontpage, isnt that a bodge??  <_>

    80824[/snapback]

     

    Don't think it's a bodge anyway. I feel it's just Jaaps contribution to the actual ongoing lent. Brave he is.

    Have you noticed the subtile hint to the now gone days of carneval with its mustard filled pies?

     

    Hubert

  17. Normaly bad batteries show a higher internal resistance than good new ones, so if ever than the voltage at the clamps should be higher with bad batteries than with good ones. IMHO

     

    The TPS sees approx. 5 V, produced by an internal V-regulator in the ECU. So it should also make no difference whether you have 11 or 13 V at the clamps.

     

    What could be affected is indeed the mixture, because of the relation of injector opening/closing time to injection time. With lower voltages and especially at higher RPM your mixture could become leaner, as the nozzles open and close slower.

     

    Hubert

  18. Here in a Dutch motormagazine is a test between

    Ducati sportsclassic, Triumph Truxton, Voxan caferacer and a

    V11 Lemans. The conclusion of the testers is , that it's time

    to stop the production of the V11 !...

     

    79999[/snapback]

     

    This is probably just a translation of a MOTORRAD article in one of the last issues. Written without to much phantasy, in deed. Reeding it twice you could even say silly.

     

    The author found the Guzzi would somehow just work, and this was the only reason for his conclusion.

     

    Some copies before this an other author complained about the Griso that he couldn't find the sidestand in the dark, so what can you expect ?!

     

    Hubert

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