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luhbo

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Posts posted by luhbo

  1. This is a 1-2-hour job, plus about $60 worth of bearing shells (assuming the crank is OK). You do not need to take off the heads and cylinders. It can all be done from below.

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    If it was an old bike and if it was a result of 50,000 miles maybe. On this new one there should be reason for this failure that needs closer inspection, at least in my eyes.

     

    But I do not run a shop.

     

    Hubert

     

    PS: I'd be surprised if the crank should need grinding. At least the old ones were more or less undestroyable.

  2. That's the one, yes. In my eyes it's a good offer, although it's not the best quality. It's quite heavy for it's size, the screen is very small.

    Mine was green, this year it's black, and black looks better. So maybe you don't need to get it sprayed.

     

    Hubert

  3. ... Power comander goes to the top of my shop list,3 differant types,i guess the usb ign and fuel is the one to go for?

     

    ....GEORGE

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    I bought TuneEdit from Wayne McDonald instead of the PowerCommander. Not that this PCIII is not a good product, but I'm quite sure it does not offer the oportunity to alter spark advance and other things. The additional weight would be no problem either, as I have removed the right mirror ;)

     

    TuneEdit instead gives me total control over the entire mapping, plus the possibility to use PCIII maps and more. All the details on his homepage.

     

    To make things short, I have it and with the help of it I converted a Ducati 900SS ecu into a perfect Titanium version for the V11. Just downloaded the proper map and that's it.

     

    Hubert

  4. You'll love her anyway. And guess, she won't age! BTW, most of the V11 I know don't show all those issues, or at least have overcome them.

     

    Sorry, know no prices. As long as you have warranty the price for the service should be fixed, and any issues got sorted out for free.

    After that time just make the service alone or with a friend.

     

    Hubert

  5. At work we actually have a project running in which a sensor shall stay awake even when you lock the car but let the roof open (insurance policy :homer: ). One requirement is the max. current in watch-mode, and this is more or less the most challenging task for the hardware engineers.

     

    Maybe we see a similar effect here. If you shut down the engine, the ecu not just dies but just gets a signal to shut down the engine, store the last parameters and maybe faults and so on. You could say "close all the windows". But for this it has to stay connected to the battery of course.

     

    If I find the time and nerve I will check at an opened ecu whether the cpu is alive when the rest is dead.

     

    Hubert

  6. ...

    But I did not try disconnecting the solenoid control wire, nor the taillight, the brake light, nor the rear turn signals, but I think I have disconnected everything else.

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    Don't disconnect anything, it's not worth the time. Do you have winter already?

     

    Hubert

    • Like 1
  7. ....

    I've done it hundreds of times on fifty or more Guzzis, and this system seems to eliminate play and also not load bearings too much. My Eldo bearings, for example have nearly 100,000 miles on them and are tight and happy.

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    The bearings are completely different. The old conic ones can hardly be mistreated, the ones on the v11 are different here.

     

    Ratchet's procedure sounds reasonable, albeit you'll need a bending torque meter. Or you believe him and take the values as he wrote them.

     

    Hubert

  8. I'm back from measuring. Guess what?! Mine shows 8.6V ignition off and 10.3 or so ign. on. Funny, ain't it.

     

    Anyway, I never had any probs with this. I know folks that let their V11 stand over the winter without removing or even loading the battery and in spring they press the start button and drive off. Personally I can't complain about my battery, it's still the first one from 1999 and it's still doing a good job.

     

    When you measure between the two fuse socket pins, F1 removed, ecu attached, you probably measure between two different potentials. The difference is 8 or 10 V as described. I think it has something to do with the polarity of the semiconductors/diodes in the ecu. Maybe one of the electronic pro's could explain this better. I'm not sure whether it's an issue.

  9. .....Its getting to be the most common language on earth, most common

    2nd language ect ect,and yet you can travel 50ks in some countrys that speak English and not be understood. Makes life interesting.

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    In german downtowns, of Berlin, Frankfurt e.g., they've actually started projects to learn german pupils the german language!! They can talk to each other, in german sounding phrases, but they're not able to communicate.

    They make exercises like "three sentence stories", introduction - climax - ending, and that's really a very hard job for most of them. If people can't comunicate, their society is dead...

     

    Hubert

  10. Don't know what you are doing or measuring, but 10V sound quite odd to me.

     

    The F1 fuse is or at least should be directly connected to the battery!

     

    You def. should see 1:1 the battery voltage! Regardless whether you pull fuses or not, a good battery assumed you will see 10V only under currents the starter could produce! This would mean your ECU is buzzing some solid 80 Amps or so.

     

    What is wrong with my point of view? :huh2:

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