BrianG

I have a LM-1/LM-3 wideband A/F & data logger for tuning my toy cars, but the Bosch LSU4.2, 5-wire, wide-band O2 sensor is too large for the MG bung. Does anyone know what wideband O2 sensor will fit that bung?

Apparently I don't frequent the local bar enough........ They don't give me towels to clean my bike!!

I used "HEAVY" and the transmission has a definitely different character to it's sound.... along with the lack of leakage!

My dyno session with the PC III revealed a lean section in the 3500- 5000 RPM range. We were able to tune it out with about 6 runs, although we didn't get a perfectly flat A/F curve. We did manage to put it into the 12:1 - 14:1 range throughout the whole RPM range, tending toward the 12:1 area at the upper end. This did require the dyno and A/F measuring instrument, however.

I've ridden the M-1's and the street Diablo. The Diablo felt a bit more certain and had none of the "softness" issues associated with the "corsa" version. For me, the choice between would be in the prices I could get. At equal $$$ the Pirelli Diablo (not corsa) would get the nod.

If you can get a ride on an early V-11 Sport, you might like those clip-ons better. I bought a PC III and had it tuned on a dyno. It was AMAZING to see how far off the Guzzi A/F map was in the 4-6 k RPM range. It actually was off the chart! No wonder it's got that mid-range stumble. I all truth, the PC III fixed that, but not much difference we noted anywhere else.

The first thing that I noticed with this bike is that the front end is seriously undersprung for a 200 lb man in riding gear. The second thing I noticed is that the PO set the compression settings up in an attempt to compensate for this, and that made the ride harsh! A properly sprung motorcycle suspension needs very little low-speed compression damping. I too have had great past success with Traxxion Dynamics. I sent these Marz forks to them and they installed 1.10 kg fork springs, and their new valves. This changed them to "rebound adjustment" on both sides, with a fixed compression setting. The change in handling is beyond description. I also replaced the rear shock with a custom Penske unit developed by one of the denizens of this forum. I have loved previous Penske shocks I've had, and this one replaced a defective OEM unit, so it couldn't help but end up far better! I like to set my initial loaded sag to 30% of travel, front and back. If this leaves unloaded sag in the 10-15% range, the springs are right. For damping, I begin with compression backed off completely and rebound set at about 1/3 firm from off (both front and back). I'll diddle with the rebound until there's only just no second-cycle motion found under any road condition. That is, if you jump down on the forks or seat, the bike will settle and then rise to the top of rebound, and then settle to neutral with no onset of a second cycle of this motion. Usually this is perfect for most conditions. If I'm going out into the serious twisties, I'll dial in just a bit of compression damping. Just enough that you can feel the difference from zero. I agree with Max, that "A compliant suspension does the best job of keeping the rubber on the road." Plus, this cushy suspension setting is a comfortable one, to boot!

Yes, this is precisely how mine is. I did get it to quiet down a bit by balancing the injectors. Has anyone ever found the thrust bodies or throwout bearings to be a source of noise? I'm wondering about the "whirring" sound when the clutch is pulled. Maybe you can just hear that whirring when the clutch is pulled because the CLANGING is gone! The single plate clutch does not have the 10 individual clutch springs like the twin-disc unit. Rather, it has one large diaphragm spring, like the old Norton. That'd certainly create a different sound!

My 2000 V-11 Sport makes a lot of noise with the lever out, but quiets completely at about 25% lever pull. Then it makes a different (whirring) kind of noise from 25% to 100% lever pull. I've looked over the Service Manual and cannot determine what causes disengagement of the clutch on the dual plate unit. HELP!

Good to hear! Glad it worked for you too!

Since the pinging is PRE-ignition, the sparkplug's electrical function isn't part of the picture.... however, the heat-range rating of a spark-=plug actually refers to the heat-dissipating capacity of the plug, by virture of it's construction. You will notice that the it's the relative size of the porcelain at the electrode that is the most apparent visual evidence of this. Generally, I have used this to keep fouling sparkplugs clean, by going up (hotter) a level or two, but you might indeed get a significant effect away from preignition if it is actually initiating from the heat of the plug's porcelain. Certainly it's worth a try. I'd suggest "2 heat-range" increments. Keep an eye open for fouling, though.

Yes, there are other ways around ping from high combustion pressure designs. I have a couple of fanatic friends that are running 12.5:1 in normally aspirated engines........... on 110 octane VP racing fuel and alcohol injection.

Not that I don't trust Todd, but I have a PC III on my 2000 V-11 Sport, so I went out with the trusty DVM and measured the current flow across the + battery lead with the key switched off........... nada..... 0.

If you start from the basic point of understanding that "pinging" is actually pre-ignition, you can work your way logically through and attempt to resolve it. Perhaps the most common, current issue is that manufacturers frequently tune their engines on the lean side, for emissions testing reasons. Enrichening the mixture, particularly in the mid to low RPM ranges will cure a multitude of drivability issues, no the least of which is "pinging". Having said that, creating freer flow in the intake or exhaust tracts will exacerbate the problem. The only way to accurately assess this situation is to get the thing on a dyno with an O2 sensor. Best power is in the 12.5:1 A/F area and safe, best economy is around 14:1. Should the mixture turn out right, the next thing is the ignition timing. It's a good thing to check that it's in spec, to start with. You can try retarding the initial advance setting, because that's where WOT runs. Running 4-6 degrees retarded is as far as I'd take that, becasue you'll quickly loose power with much more. Lastly comes the possibility that fuel quality vs compression ratio could be the culprit. Short of swapping out the pistons for ones of a lower c.r. you can try tightening up the valve lash a couple of thou. effectively increasing overlap and thereby decreasing the dynamic cylinder pressure. YOu don't want to go too far this way either, or you risk burning valves. Hope this helps.

The pump isn't all that expensive. A rebuilt Eaton (Jaguar) unit can be had for about $500.00 US. It's plenty big enough to feed a 5 liter engine, so there have to be other smaller ones around for the same kind of $$$. I just purchased an AutoRotor twin-screw for my car, for $2000. Everyone needs a project!

Middle of the window, with the bike vertical (upright).

I had the only non-leaking Norton in Alberta for a number of years. Didn't help the fact that it needed new main bearing every winter, and left me with a rusty driveway, but it does work.... especially where some Brit decides that case halves will not benefit from a gasket!!

I was unable to identify the leak source with any certainty. The light, clear oil seemed to be everywhere. I am not convinced that it wasn't simply overfilled. I filled the gearbox with RedLine shockproof, which seemed substantially thicker than what was in there, ONLY to the middle of the sight glass (with the bike UPRIGHT) as recommended by some people here. The result of the change was no more leak. The question is......... was this due to heavier oil, or less oil, or some magic property of RedLine. Frankly, I'm not concerned enough about the "why" to chase down the truth. I'm simply pleased with the result so that I can ride out the short Canadian riding season, without any more stink!

Although my leak did stop when I changed to RedLine oil, I am not convinced that it wasn't just a result of changing the level and thereby ceasing to blow it overboard through the breather. Fill it ONLY to the middle of the sight-glass, when the bike is UPRIGHT. The original oil was quite thin and clear so tracking the source of the oil was impossible for me to do with any certainty. The good news is that you will see the red staining of this oil wherever it leaks from. Fortunately, I haven't seen any.

At the recommendation of a few members of this forum, I switched to Redline, Shockproof Heavy, and my leaky, stinky problem went away. I can't tell if it's because the oil level is now right, or becasue this stuff doesn't get through. Whatever! It shifts the same, and there's no mess!

But there's no carapace-blink!!

Use Yamabond or Hondabond 4 for most locations. I believe the 5 actually dries "hard",but have never used it. The "trick" is to put it in a separate bottle and thin it some. You then can paint it on with a brush to get a nice even coat. Straight out of the tube it is fairly thick and stringy. Main advantage is it never really "dries". You have plenty of time to coat the crankcases and assemble.

I found that I could enrichen the mixture a bit through that mid-range flat spot by connecting this regulator port to manifold vacuum. (use the sync-ports) I found that I could do a better job of this enrichment with the PC III.

I, for one, would appreciate a detailed description of this adjustment proceedure. Mu newly acquired 2000V-11 Sport misses up-shifts frequently in the same manner as anawrocki's..... that is it over-shifts into a neutral just above the desired gear. Finding the desired gear is then accomplished by apparent downshifting. I also find it notchy and harsh shifting compared to my Honda and even compared to my old Norton! I switched to RedLine gear oil and it made no apparent difference to the shifting, but it did stop leacking all over the exhaust crossover.

Careful, or we'll come down there and burn down the White House, AGAIN. Last time we did it, we didn't find anything worth keeping and I doubt we will this time, either!