jimbemotumbo

Indeed, this would work if you were somewhere in the ballpark with your balance. My poor goose was so far off the mark I would have driven into something while spinning the white knob so much! I am enjoying the visual though ... watching all the cars and bicycles dodging the flying Ouiji as he sorts the Goose with one hand, and chugs a beezo with the other.

I thought so too until I learned how to set up the EFI properly. Honestly, the miss goes away when TPS voltage and TB balance is right. Check my sputtering thread post in the Tech section. One thing I did not mention is that my map the 003 on efrom DJ website, was tweaked +2 at 3000 rpm and 2 and 5% throttle. I never changed it after doing the full EFI tune up, so it is possible this map tweak is responsible for the 3k miss going away. I still think it is primarily due to the EFI setup, since all my other hesitations, misses and coughs went away with the tune. Hope this helps.

Yes. No noticable difference, but if I had to guess, I would say the HD unit offers slightly better voltage at low/mid range, and bit maybe a bit more erratic voltage at high rpm. I rarely take it to redline, so not an issue for me. If you are really in the high performance category, then you might want to check around for someone with such experience using these HD sourced sensors. My bike runs very very well at all throttle positions and rpms up to 500 rpm before redline (stucchi, pods, M4s, PCIII, desmogged, world valve spec). At the $40 cost, I can't see any reason not to use the HD tps when your MG one goes south.

I have experienced this also. Sticky springs and connections on the TB linkage. I used liberal amounts of carb cleaner around the butterflys, and external linkage. Then lubed it with my bicycle "Pro Lube", which works very well. These seem to gunk up fairly quickly. At least it is a simple and quick fix.

I guess I should have posted to this section instead of the Technical section. sorry!

Sorry for the length, but many of you know how long I've spent fooling with this, and quite a few have had a hand in giving me advice sufficient to finally fix it. So here it is: You will recall the following: - Significant miss and hesitation at 3k rpm - Poor starting - "Carb" farts at various throttle settings - Surging and sputtering worsening over time - Unrideable bike Based on input from this board I went through valve adjustments (I'm really good at this now!), TPS settings, a new fuel filter, new wires and plugs, many PCIII maps, a new manual petcock, checked wiring, relays, fuses, etc. I even swapped the TPS for a Harley unit. After all this .... The problem turned out to be nothing more than basic EFI setup!!! At the end of this post I will give you the step by step TPS process that worked for me. I appreciate the time many have taken to post this adjustment process, both here and on guzzitech. I found literally dozens of explanations. Either I didn't read them correctly, or each one was missing some important bit of info. *I admit to being a bit dim* It all came together for me when I followed a link from this site to a general FI adjustment page for BMW, Ducati, and Guzzi. There I found the missing philosophical bit I needed to understand what I was doing wrong. This is: TBs must be completely isolated from each other, and adjusted to operate identically, but separately. This was the key. After using this new procedure, the Goose now starts easily, idles well, and pulls like a train through the entire power band. Not a single miss, hiccup, or flaw anywhere. The jimbemotumbo version of the efi setup follows. Now that I understand it, it might take 30 minutes start to finish. This procedure combines elements of all of the other threads and procedures I found (thanks to all you authors and contributors). I hope this helps everyone else with this problem (I know you are out there!). While you are at it, go ahead and check your valve adjustment, wiring connections, relays and such, before you set the TPS. V11s EFI SETUP 1. Disconnect the throttle linkage on the left TB, the fast idle lever on the right TB (remove small circlip underneath and tape it to your forehead), and the balance shaft at the right TB (the ball and socket connector). Everything comes off! This is criticial. Air bleed screws should be screwed in all the way. *My first adjustments failed because I left the choke cam connected. Connected tps voltage was 150 exactly - disconnected it dropped to 70* 2. Back out the right and left throttle body throttle stop (idle) screws so they do not touch the tabs. 3. Check that each butterfly is fully seated. 3. Turn on the ignition (motor not running) and set the TPS voltage to 150mV. Get this as perfect as possible. I found TPS voltage measured any other way to be of no help at all. I'm sure +/- 2 mv isn't a big deal, but I took the extra few minutes to get it dead on. 4. Adjust idle screw on the right TB so that the TPS reads 500-525mv. Remember - everything is still disconnected from the TBs! 5. Try to keep track how far you've turned the stop screw to achieve the voltage above. You want to turn in the left TB stop screw the same amount. This is approximate at this stage. 6. Start it up! The idle will be a bit low and uneven at this stage. 7. Open air bleeds on both TBs to get it to idle at appox 1100 rpm. Guzziology says these should be 1/2 turn open. Mine ended up a bit less than that. Yours may be higher. Use whatever setting gives you the right idle. 8. I used the balancer at this point to ensure each TB, with air bleeds adjusted, was balanced. I think my left TB air bleed was slightly more closed than the right. The TBs are now independantly operating in harmony. 9. Hook everything back up. I adjusted the balance shaft so that the socket lined up perfectly with the ball on the right TB (nothing moved when I slipped it on). Make sure you put the fast idle cam thingy back on. Hope you didn't lose the circlip! 10. Start her back up and sync the TBs using the white knob. Guzzi motor nirvana is now achieved. These are such wonderful bikes when everything is perfect. I will nail polish all the adjustment screws so hope fully won't have to do this again. Easy now that I've done it right once. Thanks again to all for their advice and understanding. What a great resource, this web site! Saluti

Excellent advice here ... thanks all. Here's the NEW plan: 1) Check elec connections to battery & ground 2) Check sensors (I haven't found the air sensor yet ... due to no airbox & mods) 3) SPark wires/caps (I have aftermarket wires but will check anyway) May go back to a stock airbox, sans lid. I lost a pod the other day, so have to buy something anyway. Thanks again all. I'll post success/failure. JB

I felt I needed to start a new thread even though we have several that try to address the hesitation, sputtering, farting that many of us have experienced. Desperately Seeking Help! 2000 V11S stucchi M4 cans PCIII K&N pods skilled rider with average common sense unskilled mechanic (apparently) I have severe "carb" farts just off idle and again around 3000 rpm with minimal throttle opening. This does not occur under acceleration ... only at nearly closed throttle. The hesitiations are significant enough to make a gentle curve into a road rash waiting to happen. I have followed all advice in these threads and tuned repeatedly according to guzziology and the forum sages. To wit: Valves freshly adjusted (tried both world and raceco spec) New TB rubbers Smacked the TBs into place firmly TPS set to 150 (engine off). Also tried the fancier methods espoused on this board. My settings have been exactly spot on. Balanced the TBs with bleeds closed using adjusting wheel, then again via bleed screws with various openings from 1/2 to 1 1/2 turns out. With PC III. Without PCIII. Changed maps. Added fuel to specific problem spots. New plugs. New fuel filter (installed correctly). Petcock wires had fallen off, so I resoldered and sealed. I took it to Erico in Denver, and they charged me $130 to replace the plugs and turn the air bleeds out. I had asked for a complete tps adjustment. Thanks Erico. Lotsa help there! They are more clueless than I am. Nothing has helped. Low speed operation seems better with air bleeds closed (or nealry so). So, WTF is going on here? Bike ran great before I started "improving" the performance - and ran great for a time afterward. The slight miss at 3k has always been there, but is much worse now. I'm left with only the ECU as a possible problem. Any thoughts? The bike is basically unrideable in this condition. A virtual pint or two to those who help me out! Thanks!

Okay, so now it starts beautifully. Give it a bit of throttle and it dies. Lots o throttle and it runs very very well. Just some hesitations mid range, in addition to the off idle stall. Now I suspect an intake leak. One thing leads to another.

I've had a similar issue lately. Inconsistent surging and bucking at zero to part throttle. Had it sussed with PCIII tuning, but it came back. I then assumed fuel filter and replaced it. Re-set tps exactly by the book. Runs worse and I can barely get it started. Runs great under half or better throttle. Soooooooooo, I got to looking around and found two broken wires hanging just below the petcock. Hmmmmmm? So I plan to wire em back up while waiting for a manual petcock to become available. I'm betting this solves all my problems. You might want to check your wires. Best of luck!

Yes, it's true. I'll be in the fair city of Spires 10 Jun 05 for nearly a week. Sadly, a business trip and without the mighty goose or Road King. However, I would be inclined to buy a pint for my v11lemans.com friends. Probably be jet lagged on Sat, but wtf. Turf Tavern? Lamb and Flag? (Old Peculier !!!) Bird and Baby?

I shall now discard mine in disgust! Now I know why you got rid of "blackie" there TX.

Wise beyond your years ...

Awesome Series! I really like the trailer. I wonder how I'd look traversing the colorado trails with that in tow! Mine's a cream puff. 97 SW. Not as manly looking as yours BFG. But still very capable, as you know. Love these vehicles. I'll have to snap a pic or two, now that I see a fellow rover man here. Jim

I'm not buying the Deltran info. I suspect they are having a problem of some sort and did not investigate completely. I really don't care how they measure or rate cranking ... proof is in the pudding and my pudding has been just fine. Going on 5 years on the Odyssey duals, and not a problem. Winched a Hummer 2 out of a jam for 15 minutes and both batteries recharged completely on the drive home. After reading this I went out and measured both the Goose and the D. All batteries still fully charged. I wouldn't pay attention to the Deltran statement until I see some proof, preferably from someone here or God forbid, from my own vehicles. Oh, I forgot ... I have one of these in my 00 Road King. Different model# tho. Best battery I've had. Always a fast start (it should be a beast to start with the bigger pistons and compression bump). When I bought the Guzzi unit back in Dec, portable power systems charged me $62.

Welcome! Funny how guys our age gravitate towards the Guzzi. Obviously, there is something wrong with us!!! kidding. halfway. ;-)

I just replaced the battery on my 00 V11, after similar symptoms. Hawker Odyssey now and great starting, even in the cold. Great price at www.portablepowersystems.com and very inexpensive shipping. btw - I have two of these batteries powering my Defender 90. Less than half the weight of a single battery, enough cranking amps, and running with an isolator I have my winch and lights hooked in with full recharging. Never a problem. Tough little battery.

Well THAT gets me thinking ... Maybe I'll run open stacks and wait for the cylinders to get bored out by the dust. Pop in bigger pistons and my old K&Ns and I'm scootin around on a 1300cc V11.

Don't do it. TX is right. Big pipes, esp on a Vtwin will absolutely kill your torque. And unless you build a race motor, even that will have little to add to the top end.

I can't be certain from your description, but it may also be "carb farts", which often happens when you suddenly lean out the mix (new exhaust!). Although FI is supposed to deal with this, I had it happen on my 00 V11 when I put on the stooky and M4s. The PCIII allowed me to isolate the lean spots and get rid of them. Until then, and at certain rpms/TP I would get short duration "farts". May be something to consider. Jim

I've used K&Ns forever. I rebuilt 2 mustang cobras after much racing and miles and upon tear down, both engines still showed cylinder hone marks and virtually no wear. This, in dusty Colorado and both engines with high miles. KNs used since new. Yes, the filters let in more dust since they also let in more air, but I think the explanation is that the size of particles that are allowed to pass are small enough to be vaporized in the combustion process. Given regular oil changes and good maintenance this is obviously not a problem. I have yet to see a real scientifi comparison of any sort of filter, one that considers more than simple pass-through and filtering specs of new filters and includes actual engine component wear testing, or longer term filtration (after the filters have been in use a bit).

Electric clothing???? Come on, man. It's a motorcycle. Be tough! I suppose the next thing I'll hear about is installing a stereo.

That's not for power ... it's a SAFETY DEVICE! Scare the beegeezus out of cagers that might rear end you. HONK

I swapped the spring from the seat release with the fast idle spring. Now both work like they were supposed to.

Being the cheap old man that I am, I would just ride with the stock relays and keep Bosch relays under your seat in case you need them.