jimbemotumbo

I rely heavily on my throttle rocker. Not unsafe at all nor does it make for overly sensitive throttle input when you use it correctly and get some miles in using it. On my FJR I have done a few IBA LD rides and the rocker saved me from certain hospitalisation. If you are worried about grip real estate, try the "Throttle Boss" from Kuryakin. It's the smallest of it's kind. I have found you don't need a big rest platform, just a little nubbin is often plenty enough to get some rest and it will not get in your way. You can take it off quickly with one hand when you reach the twisties. A throttle lock can be very useful if you, like me, ride on highways that go 400-500 miles straight as a string (Hiway 50 in Nevada, I-70 across Kansas, to name a few). Set the lock and take the strain off your wrist and hands. I currently don't have a lock because I really hate the build quality on the Vista, and others. There is a vendor of EXTREMELY high quality throttle locks ... a bit pricier, but appear to be just the ticket. No first hand experience with it though. Have a look for yourself. I particularly like the "Cock and Lock", but the "Cam Sport" looks interesting. Clicky

Be sure to wire them on. Theay can come loose and fall off.

I fondly recall my V11s 6-speed as a thing of shifting beauty. A few runs up and down the canyon had me trained to the required technique. once learned, I found it just as smooth and sure as my FJR tranny.

Apparently, it happens everywhere. Versailles I kept looking for that big ol palace but only found a drive-up bank and a tastee-freeze.

Not to be rude, but whatever he can get. Not a classic or a collectible. My guess would be $1200 to $2200 range, depending on how it shows and who you can get to come see it. I'd post on the mgnoc site. The best bet is a guzzisti who knows 65k isn't necessarily ready for the landfill.

Desmosedici

Ouch, bad joke! General rule of thumb for GPS install is to use switched power if the GPS has an internal battery, and to take power directly from the battery for units with no internal battery. Headlight juice fluctuates a bit, so isn't a good choice. Power requirements of most GPS units are so low that a direct connection will not be a problem.

99 in the UK is the same as 91 US rating (many states get 93). Hmmm, I thought the UK generally had better availability of higher octane fuels than here in the states?

That is where my questions are exactly. I am not so sure any damage is being done at all (except in extreme cases). I wonder if the light is truly in response to a real oil loss. If true, of course the damage is done in some degree. I simply can't imagine anything electronic on a goose being so accurate and sensitive. This investigation warrants two new grisos (one for a control subject). I happily volunteer. See you in 40 thou when we unblind the study and release data.

I'm such a wuss!

I wonder if this is not so much a "real problem" as a percieved one for those of us who are not racing or riding around on the back wheel for miles at a time. I know of alot of Guzzis with an intermittent oil light. I know of zero that have suffered real damage from oil starvation due to this. Please correct me if I am wrong ... I just have never heard of one. Despite the brief moment of "change" in oil level, oil is still getting picked up properly. The advice of filling to the top most indicator should minimize risk. That, and limit wheelies to tenths of a mile. Again, I bias this opinion on the fact most if us are not racing. If I were, or otherwise riding as if I was, I would consider fabbing up a baffle, as Ratchet suggests.

No. Okay, for some maybe. Like the Marquis de Sade. This is why I have an FJR, or ride the Hardlee. Every body is different, so go ahead & ride that bad boy on an IBA ride, win friends & impress all. YMMV

Pete, if it's any consolation ... Here in Colorado, sand trucks, gravel, rocks, whatever shyteload they carry, have legal immunity from liability. Even for negligent driving. They could be careening from curb to curb spraying scooters with bowling balls and still remain exempt and aloof. Had one blow by last winter and took the glass right out of my car. Then the bloody bastards in the sand truck office gave me the false hope provided by the filling out of forms and making of reports. As I turned in my lovely writing they said thanks but were exempt. I'm mad all over again just typing it out for you. Hope your at least smiling a bit by now! Jim

22 pages and counting! Dang, I've never even seen an oil thread go this long! Says alot about us, eh?

Ditto the 545. Great battery. I even use one on the big bore road king. Lotso cranking power & they really hold a charge well! Portable power is about 15 minutes away, so easy pickup and no shipping!

You can also use a bulb socket from any old Japanese DS bike. You know, the rubber grommeted kind. You can squish em into place and use silicone adhesive bewteen the metal of the instrument and the rubber socket. Use tape to hold it in place until dry. The new socket will have two wires ... obviously the positive gets plugged into the available wire in the harness, and then just solder up the second wire as a new ground to the instrument housing and then to the frame. They work well, hold up perfectly, and the instruments are visibly brighter. If it falls out due to rubber shrinkage, you can always buy another for a dollar.

Thank you, Jaap, for improving my day considerably!

If this were posted in the tech section I'm sure I'd have to remove it. Jaap would insist. In future, send any hooters to my PM before posting. Preferably >800x600 for a proper review.

I've long suspected that a crash at anything more than say 20 mph without a helmet will likely kill you, and that with a helmet you will likely be a blubbering mass of protoplasm using a pencil in your teeth to drive your chair around the nursing home. So, I'm fairly understanding of those who choose not to wear one. Personally, I feel my odds are better with one ... and the comfort and protection of a full face in the rain or wind seems to offset any disadvantages, per the report shown here. I wonder if Leno can wear a FF? Okay, Ratchet. Your turn.

Nice. Thank you for posting the link!

Carl needs a yugo to attain vehicular balance. My crap, aside from the goose: Defender 90 12 old bimmer 525 (just won't die) y2k HD Road King Needs: TX's pacer, or a V8 Gremlin Ural / Dnepr (pm me carl - I'm really shopping for one - need help)

Leather, if you value your skin. I can't stand textile jackets. Uncomfortable (they never break in or flex). Others disagree. Very personal. But - my leather fits ME, perfectly. The only downside is dampness, which is why my new jacket is made of waterproof leather. First Gear, I believe. It even has pockets for armor if you feel the need. Comfy, warm, dry, protective, AND doesn't make me look a Power Ranger. Not that there is anything wrong with that. I had the misfortune of seeing a post accident textile jacket and victim several years ago. The poor chap had melted textile embedded into his skin. They had to dig it out. Don't go there. A high quality leather jacket is MUCH better than several layers of skin, as someone suggested. Depends entirely on the quality ... you get what you pay for in most cases.

Nope, not worth it. Just give it all up. Send me your bikes and women. I'm doing you a favor. Trust me.

Try this. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm

Not a great photo, but it should do the trick. I actually like these now ... yes, buzzy and vague at speed, but isn't everything? Works well enough. I use rubber plumbing washers at the joints to dampen vibes a bit. JB