richard100t

I did a cold drain and refilled with normal G-5, made a few runs totaling under 200 miles and warm drain and refill with the G-5 80W-90. Not much pink left and the leak seems more of a seep now; definitely slowed it down. I wish I thought it would keep getting better, but I'm afraid that thinking is far too wishful. Parts order tomorrow. The diagram shows a big o-ring. Suppose that ought to be on hand as well? Yeah theres a large o ring thats inside the cover when you unbolt it. It wouldnt hurt to replace it while you're in there, but its probably still good. Did you clean the vent cap at the top of the rear drive? Thats very important to keep it from leaking too. You may think its wishful, but I bet the more you ride your bike the less it will leak now.

If time is running out on you I would highly recomend going the machine shop route. You dont want to get a good way from home and then something goes wrong. Do you have the seals yet? It might not be a bad idea to get a replacement bearing, just for peace of mind. If you bring the rear drive to the shop already disassembled it should cost less than $50 to get the job done. If you have to buy a puller and an arbor press you'll be out more than that. You arent going to get that bearing out or back in without those two things and a torch helps even with that. The seal itself has to be pressed in as its a very tight fit. Just curious....did you try draining the rear drive again and filling with plain gear oil to get all the redline out? It may just save you a lot of trouble. Its a $5 gamble...just sayin...

I dont know if it was a special kind of puller or not. Maybe Pete Roper or one of the other experieced wrenches in here could shed some light on that one. The other thing to do is take it apart, pull the crown off and take it to a machine shop and have them pull the bearing, put the seal in and press the bearing back in. It shouldnt cost very much and you'll have the peace of mind that the bearing wont get damaged from the job.

you dont need to pull out the pinion to replace the seal. If you pull the pinion you'll have to know how to re set the crown/pinion. Unless there is a third seal in there that I'm not aware of at the moment! You will need the right bearing puller to get at the smaller seal, but thats the only special tool that I can think of. I was told to never pull the pinion out because it involves several more hours of labor. Now that I'm remembering the teardown of mine you have to take the crown out, but the guy told me as long as you leave the pinion intact you dont have to set the gears when you put it all back together... I cant remember the term for that at the moment, not enough coffee

I had the exact same problem with mine using Redline. I changed both of the seals and it only stopped the leaking temporarily. I'm guessing your leaks first started only after being on the highway going over 70mph? Then it progressively gets worse from there. Long story short, just use regular gear oil or what the manual calls for. When I drained the redline from my box and put plain gear oil in there the leaking stopped. I'm thinking the redline is just a little too slippery for the rear drive seals. So, I drained the Redline. Twice now. I keep thinking the drizzle gets better. Did yours take a few miles a change or two to "seal?" If I remember correctly the redline sticks like maple syrup to the inside of your rear drive. When you change to another gear oil you get "pink line" . I remember mine still leaking with the pinkline but much less. So I drained out the pink line and refilled with fresh gear oil and it hasnt leaked a drop since. Keep in mind that I did replace both seals. If you have a bad inner seal you're going to have to replace it no matter what.

Its dead easy to remove the bikini fairing and ride it like that. If you're in Toronto and want a v11 I'm in Ohio and would sell my rosso mandello for the right price.

I had the exact same problem with mine using Redline. I changed both of the seals and it only stopped the leaking temporarily. I'm guessing your leaks first started only after being on the highway going over 70mph? Then it progressively gets worse from there. Long story short, just use regular gear oil or what the manual calls for. When I drained the redline from my box and put plain gear oil in there the leaking stopped. I'm thinking the redline is just a little too slippery for the rear drive seals.

If anyone has an oem clutch lever laying around unused that they would like to sell please pm me.

Being in a more northern climate, I would welcome some extra engine heat from Nvember to March. Thats one thing about the Goose, you cant say that it roasts your innards on a warm day. I cant say that I've really noticed the engine heat at all. I have ridden a Honda CBR 954rr and that thing was crazy with the engine heat. I do like the things that I've read about the Motus...We'll wait to see what the real thing actually ends up looking like.

I've had a good ride wirh the Continental ContiForce tires. They work as well as anything else I've tried and the price is better than most.

Race Tech is a good company to make you a shock as well. You can probably expect to pay more than a thousand to have a custom shock made with the remote reservoir. A friend of mine got a new one from Maxton without the reservoir for about five hundred if I remember right.

Have you taken the Eldorado for a ride yet? The only real way to know if you're going to like the bike is to get it out on the road and have a go with it. Have the other guy jump on your v11, you get on the Eldo and ride for an hour or so. If you cant make up your mind after that then you dont really want to part with the v11. The old bike sure looks like a cool bike to go for a long ride to me. Probably gets 50mpg too.

I have the fbf's as well. The clear coat on the carbon looks to be a foot deep and they probably will never fade because of that. Its a straight through open pipe design and it will make your bike sound like a v-8 musclecar from the 60's. If thats what you're looking for, the fbf's are the real deal. Oh and they weigh exactly half as much as the stock cans.

I like the redline as well but its so good that it seeps through the seals in my rear drive. I tried replacing both seals but it still seeped through. When I switched to a conventional gear oil the leaking promptly stopped. I still use the redline in my transmission. The redline only seeped through the rear drive after highway riding at over 70mph but I do ride like that pretty often so I had to make a change.

Sounds like a worn out fork seal. I'd say 71k is pretty good compared to the Ohlins forks on the Guzzi's. Buy a pair of seals and a quart of fork fluid and make it like new again. Shouldnt cost more than $50...not counting the beer money!

The same thing happened to me. First try cutting a slot in the bolt head. If you cant get it out with the screwdriver then use the vise grips. Heat will break the loctite grip, but of course be careful of the other parts if you take a plumbers torch to heat the bolts. I think about 600 degrees or so will undo the loctite.

I think that is a brilliant idea for the battery mount! That is a perfect post to mount all your expensive electrical accesories to. Lets see now, handwarmers, ipod, gps, laptimer... you may need a longer stud!

Have you had the cap off of the fork yet? I know its a dumb question but you'll need to at least have the cap off to see how much oil is in there. Is it the same amount as in the other fork? Did the blue preload nut come off the rod? If one end is bottoming out then the other end would have to be bottoming as well. Use a zip tie around both fork legs and go for a ride the zip ties will get pushed down as the forks compress. Then you will know exactly how soft your front end is set up.

The transmission has a fluid level window. Add fluid until the window is at least half full or better when the bike is vertical. THE rear drive you can take the bolt out in the middle rear and fill at the top until fluid is coming out or close to coming out the hole or a little less, with the bike held vertical again.

When you remove the pan to change the oil its important to get the pan and the oil line back on right and tight. I would suggest that you try draining thr oil and take the pan back off and put it back on carefully. My bike has 37k miles on it and I have never used the manhole cover. I can recall that the oil will leak through the rear like a sieve if the pan isnt put back on just right with all the bolts torqued up. The oil could be coming from anywhere but since you said it started after the oil change I'm guessing the pan isnt tight.

This happened to me a few years ago. I think you may not have your speedo cable housing pointed in the right direction. If its not headed back towards the speedometer I think the cable gear loses contact with the worm gear, causing your problem. I'll send you a pic of how mine looks but you'll have to pm me. The file is too big to post here.

When you increase the rpm your throttle position of course changes. When you adjust your tps you're supposed to have the idle screws out to get the baseline. Then you make the adjustment to the tps. After that you can set the idle speed to your preference. Maybe one of the more knowlegeable forum members could explain it better than I can.

Adjusting the idle stops do the same thing as just holding the throttle open at the grip. It will not affect your tps setting in the slightest, no way no how. When you do need to adjust your tps just back off the idle set screws and adjust the tps. If your bike is idling too slowly I would suggest that you do a tb balance and check your tps before you set the idle higher. My bike rarely needs the tps adjusted, but the damn tb's seem to need it every oil change.

The story goes that they made 300 "numbered" rm's. It was originally supposed to be just a limited edition 80th anniversary bike. But when they thought there was a demand for them they made another 300 "un numbered" bikes. That is the answer to your question. However... there really is no way to know for sure how many un numbered bikes are out there. Its going on ten years old now so you should just enjoy it for what it is. I doubt if it will ever be a collectable highly sought after bike in the future. That being said people still look at mine and want to know what it is, and really like the looks. Quality and good looks never really go out of style.

The battery on my Rosso was bad but it would still start the bike...except when it was cold. If you have the battery out of the bike, take it to an auto parts store and have it tested. After I replaced my battery the bike starts all the time no matter the temperature. One nice thing about testing the battery is that if theres nothing wrong with it you can move on to the next probable cause. If the bike stalled after it was already running then there probably is something else going on besides the battery...voltage regulator, alternator, short..something like that.