mark.gilmore
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Posts posted by mark.gilmore
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Bought December 04,4000km when I bought the bike.so they said, Speedo warranty replacement before I picked the bike up,so o km on purchase. 50.000km + 4000km = 54 000km as of this week.Changed cluch out before it f@cked up to a Ram unit.Filter K&N,with back cut out of box,straight through X over,Remus pipes,Cliff's ECU unit running closed loop.Innovate 02 sensor kit, Runs like a dream.Been running closed loop for 18 months now and bike pulls strong now from 60kph in 6th gear all the way through to redline.which it would not do before,Bike has been transformed.There's a plug for you Cliff. Best thing I've spent money on yet. Also heavier front springs cause im fat.and a heap of carbon+Pauls tail peice,Roper plate,home made carden bar,only using 6 rubbers in the cush drive and they are drilled,so I have some spares,I did that @ 10000km,and brass sensor,headlight relays.
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Thats how I do it.
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I got Conti Force,{Sport tour}A bit more tour than Attacks.silica compound,very good in the wet.5000km so far,look like I will get 10.000km out of them.Might try Road Attacks next time.
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This is what happend to mine.
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I've just bought one like this from Motomecca. Apparently it was standard on the Scura....
My Scura does not have one.
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My condolences to his Family and friends.I feel like I know him,Just like the rest of you.Stay safe you people.
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Oxygen has its way with other finishes too, not just anodized aluminum. Can't hate it too much, since we can't live without it!
It's been pretty well established by higher authorities than myself that the coating is paint. Detail pictures of crashed valve covers pretty quickly dispels any illusion that it's anodizing.
Well blow me down, I'm a Spraypainter by trade and have not seen paint like that before.They must have heaps of flattening base in it,then spray it on from 5 metres to get that dry, non gloss finish about it.
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This is my take.My tyres wear more on the right side, as we ride on the left side of the road I think it is further around a right hander than a left hander.Especially if u stay wide in the corner like I do keeping away from on-coming traffic.Only by a few metre's,but it all adds up at the end of the year.
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I had no such problem,my RAM fitted straight in.
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Only sh-t Anodizing fades like that.
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The problem was that the sealed bearing in the center of the ring gear (visible from the left with the wheel off) was off of it's seat by about .030". Since the spacer inside the box butts up against the race of this bearing, the spacer was .030" to the left of where it should be. This is why the inner spacer did not protrude through the big washer.
Well I wasn't expecting that,Good work.Nothing like solving it yourself
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I have seen them up close and they are anodized.Most of them have already been painted some ugly red.IMO I recon they would look good the same colour as the tank.
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Still on the to-do list: get a deep-V sump. When the crank was removed, it needed to be honed - it looked like it suffered from oil starvation, which I attribute to poor design of the stock oil sump.
__Jason
Hi Jason
May I suggest a Roper plate that I use and thoroughly recommend, as many will agree on this forum also.and a lot cheeper than a Deep-V sump.
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Gosh,I love this sh#*t.I will be trying this on Morris Sod's bike ASAP.
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Mark, 3.6 degrees is 532mV according to the chart here.
Thanks Tom
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Hay Tom,good stuff.we just need to no what your everything backed off TPS is now.there is a bike in town with similar probs.
and 3.6 degrees in mv?
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Yes some of them don't.Like Morris Sod's,He is a member on this forum.His RM does not have any marks either.
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Stuck mine in the other day No prob's.
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Pete, got my new sheet yesterday,very nice indeed.Thank u hairy crotch.
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Then adjust the 150 mV again and turn the right adjustment screws in to get 500 mV.
Thats not the way anyone here does it.That I no of.
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I personally would rather stick red hot pins in my scrotum than have any set of Alloy timing gears in any motor of mine.
Pete
I almost pissed myself when I read that. :
Your a funny preck. -
I saw that one going up Mt tamborine a while back (At least one with all the red bits anyway) Was the first siting of a scura in the wild for me in oz!
5000 seems like an OK prisce depending on the "repairable" damage.
Ciao
jasper
PS Mark are you going to the budgy ralley this year? I have plans to go there again! So lets hope it can work out this year!
Don't no if im rostered off yet.Got any dates?
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umm there this one.
Is that your's nsS
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Valve adj.,tps and throttle body ballance. I backed off both idle screws. disconnected linkage. disconnected choke. set TPS to 150. tried to set to 520 for ballance and idle, too high . readjust linkage no tention. air bypasses 1/2 turn out from close. bodies ballanced with linkage adjuster and rt screw. Runs great but idle is at 1300-1400 and the TPS is at idle 360 air bleeds at 1 or 1/2 not much difference. LF screw not in contact. If I back off RT side screw it won't ballance. any ideas!?
Follow the pinned instructions above TPS.The left idle screw should be the one in contact,not the right. It{the right screw}should be backed off.
My fast idle was still touching, backed all the way off,so I got rid of it.Follow the step by step you will get it.
Hooters
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