Murray

I have heard of this. I have seen a 1100sporti with excessive carbon build up vales stick and meet witht he piston. I however have a 94 sport1100carbed version with 85 000kms with no such symptoms which I would expect. Wouldn't worry about it till you have symptoms.

If you do a search you should find this topic cover extensivly. Basically you need to do your static sags to determine weather the springs that the factory fitted are right for you. Generally bikes are sprung for a 75kg rider if you are signifcantly heavier than this or lighter it will be very hard to get things right. There are quiet a few mutilingual people on this board if you nominate you language someone might even be alble to explain it in a format you are more familar with.

Bike Gearboxes including Guzzi's are not synchromesh. They are constant mesh ie all the gears are turning all the time which one is driving the output shaft is the only thing that changes. Yes first is doing quiet a few rotations a minute with top gear maxed out.

I have found with the carbed 1100 sport condition of the final drive oil is critical to the shift quality. I can even tell when the final drive oil starts to go off. I have used the redline oil and found it made little to no difference to the operation of the bike and emptyed my pocket somewhat. I now change the final drive oil with the engine oil every 5000kms with a graphite based treatment (read moloy). I have foun this keeps the five speed crashing away quiet happily. Possibly you have experinced the effect of going from dead oil to good oil. Anyway I found if made little to no difference and didn't last particulary longer than mineral oil. My experinces only of course.

To get hard suspesnion confused with good handling. Softer suspesnion will allow the bike to ride the variations in road surface rather than skip over it with everything wound up so hard the suspesnion has no time to react. Asumming you have done you static sags and to anyone else reading this it is vital you do this before messing with anything else. If you can't remeber where your damping is at the best way is set everything to the middle go for a ride and work out which way you want to go write down what you do. So say the rebound on whatever has 40 clicks for full range (figure's removed from thin air and do not necassarily reflect any fact on a actual product). So you start at 20 clicks go for a ride and decide that it needs more rebound you then go ten clicks positive and repeat the process havlying that amount of clicks until it is adjusted to your satifaction. The idea of writing stuff down is if the last adjustment didn't work you can go back and look at going back the other way if nesscary.

Actully Pete if you are intrested and someone has some pretty accurate drawings I can get a quote from a machinist at work his stuff is pretty good, think he charges around $70 an hour but basically spends his time knocking up odd jobs like this one. What material?

Bulbs tend to ethier work or they don't very rare fo it to be a half measure. Would be going for some corrsion on the bulb holder or a sad earth. Not sure on the V11's but on the 1100sports the rubber isolation mount pionts are used as earths where they mount to the front fairing frame.

I havn't checked recently but a couple of years ago both Arai and AGV did agositni helments. Arai's is called the Agostini and AGV's was called the Aniversary or classic obiously they didn't have the naming rights. Have you tried the relevant web sites?

To be honest of you havn't had any problems I wouldn't bother. Its a bit like the relays thing. The first run of V11's had problems with the siemins relays now however any elctrical problem on the V11 must be the relays. Never mind that the socket it sits in is dirty and the action of pulling it out and pushing in a new one cleans the contacts well enough for it to start working. With most eletrics leave them alone unless they give you problems they are more reliable this way. Just go and ride the !@#$ing thing.

Dunno about other people but whilst Stainless steel stays all nice and shiny I have a problem with screwing a harder metal than the factory already fitted into a realativly soft aluminium block. Dunno its just my thoughts.

In under the rocker cover there are two allen wrench screws. These are infact caps and when removed allow direct acess from above to the head bolts that sit below the spark plug and the oil feed line. To ensure correct sealing they are fitted with o rings if you are the type that retensions heads or Antonino at the factoey got a bit enthusastic with them the oring can be damages and thus leak. They are usally pretty tight however when doing them up remeber what you are screwing it into and firm without been overly enthusiastic is all they really need. Workshop manaul probally has a torque setting for them. Unusual torque settings..... fit flogging spanner XXXX, three blows from the average sized man with a 8lb sledge hammer should be suffcient. The device in question is the propeller on a Wirraway aircraft WWII vintage trainer.

There is 101.32 KPA to the bar = 14.6? PSI = 1013.2 millibar = 29.92 inches of mercury oh and you missed atmoshpere's 1 bar = 1 atmosphere.

He's my take on cupping front tyres. Its a result of a soft tread compound and a directional tread pattern with relativly narrow gaps between the grooves. Most tyres in V11 sizes are designed for the current generation of sports bikes r1's 954's ZX10 RCV whatever honda are calling thier new one and things like the ZX6R R6 F4I CBR600RR GSXR600 etc etc. Put these tyres on a belhounth like a 240 kilo guzzi with a rearward wieght bias they are simply not designed to cope with. With the demand from the public for more and more perfomance the tyres have become more narrow focused. Its intresting however bridgestone are bringing out a new series of tyres very shortly 014's which are supposed to be harder yet grip very well. Currently ont he front of the 1100 sport I have a pirelli EVO corsa which is sadly out of production but this tyre is showing no ill effects and the evo i had previously held up very well. I have also ran a bridgestone 011 which was standard fit to the GSXR series and is usally avlible on request. Supposedly similar compund to the 010 however different tread pattern and while it was slightly out of shape at the end of its life it was no where near as bad as the 010. It did however tend to drift when pushing hard out of a corner very contrlalbly good party trick to freak out your friends but not that conforting. Pirelli still make the EVO super corsa which has a similar tread pattern to the EVo corsa however it is seriously soft and its life might be somewhat limited dunno never used them. Havn't used Avons for a while the one I had on the front was for a couple ot track days at the very fast philip island. Whilst it didn't cup i managed to put some serious wear on the sides of the tyre and once it lost its profile it wasn't pretty. Avons have brought out a couple of different models since so they may have improved but with the streght of the Australian dollar over recent years I could almost buy a front and rear bridgestone for the price of a rear avon. Gets kinda hard to justify for an experiment.

I love Cliff's work, but just to be clear, his My15 ECU is right at twice the cost of a PCIII al Cliff charges around 5-$800 AUD for his devce depending on how handy you are with a soldering Iron. 800AUD+ is what they are asking for the USB power commander III which is not a closed loop system how much do you pay for the power crapper (remebering figures are in Australian Dollars).

Its still a low tech motor change it regulary and it should never be a problem for intial run in at least it is suggested to use mineral oil then go to synthetic at around 20 000kms but opions vary on this. Oil level is checked upright the final drive is desinged to be checked upright however the minimal difference it makes to been on a race stand won't do it any harm. The cam chain tensioner is better than the ones of old but seriously consider fitting a blade/agostini type tensioner should you ever distirub that part of the motor. Just ride it.

I have 41.5mm kelien flat slides on my 1100 sport, you are unhappy with 30mpg are you? Try between 9.5kms per litre and 17kms per litre. To get 17 kms per litre you have to really pat it flat ground little overtaking, They have been professionaly jetted in normal is 13-14kms per litre. As you havn't said weather you are speaking of the imperial gallon or the US gallon I'll let you sort out the coversions. The delorto's are no better the fuel injected bikes are vastly better remebering things improve with run in. There is definatly no cog on the cam to drive the distributor even on the carbed 1100sports/cali 1100's let alone the fuel injected bikes. Fuel injection genrally gives better enconmy and definatly more consitant. Before you ask the Kelien are a vast improvment on the delorto's and are matched to a full termi race exhauts system and yes the sound is to die for. The 1000sp's have a very mild cam small valves in the head much more leniant emission laws and as someone else pionted out have a fraction of the preformance the V11 Lemans have. In short I severly doubt carbs will improve anything and its very likely you will go backwards not to metion a very expensive exercise. For the kind of money you are talking about you can buy a full Motec ECU for your bike which is infnetly user tuneable. Alternativly cliff produces a intresting device for less than what they ask for a power crapper. BTW I am sure some of the Europeans would be intrested in what you actully are paying for fuel.

Actually speaking of regulators you can actully fit a acel one made fore the big HD's. Little stuffing around with connections and you loose the charge light. The mounting holes a slightly different size so some sort of adapter plate is required. However the cooling fins actully line up witht he airflow unlike the ducati and I've had one on my 1100 sport for over 60 000kms with no problems, The best bit is they are about quarter the price of the Ducati item.

1 bar/atmosphere is around 14.6 psi or 29.92 inches or mercury. To me the Metric system is much easier to deal with I have used both.

Australia and New Zeakand are a long way from England. However i understand the english are slowly going to the metric system mainly because of thier proxinmaty to Europe. Australia and New Zealand are metric countries However all three used to use the imperial gallon over the US gallon.

New Zealand and Australia used the imperial gallon. With the emphasis on past tense about 30 years ago they went metric the only place you will find imperial measurements is with older people and trades who work on a variety on imported equipment. But as far as the school systems technical colleges universities and general day to day living everything is metric.

Depending on what exactly you want Thunderbikes in Perth Western Australia has a pretty good line on most parts he indpendantly imports a lot of his own stuff. See the AIGOR services page.

Errm wernt we going metric? is this US gallons or english gallons?

The tank was expanded slightly in 2002/3. Moving the pump and regulartor would of chewed up a little capacity. Who knowes the specs might even be acurate!

Dunno not sold on this whole fender elimination thing, it might be related to the huge stone chips in the front fairing of the 1100 sport couple of them right down to the fibreglass. Done by japanese sports bikes that I cought in the corners and then gave it a big squirt when the road striaghtened out. You guessed it no fenders and sticky tyres. The bike has done 83 000kms so a bit of wear and tear is fair enough but when it doen't have to happen cause a couple people obsess over how the back of thier bike looks (who spends a long time looking at the back of thier own bike anyway?) kinda annoys me. Your bike up to you.

Checked for manifold /vacum leaks or exhaust leaks?