Murray

I don't think pistons alone would be worth 5hp. 5hp out a guzzi motor is a significant gain and uless you did the breathing mods to take advantage of it simply chucking a set of pistions would probally do little to nothing to the prefomance.

I would say that is failry major work to the engine it would of absorbed around $2000 requiring a total strip down of the motor without the expense of the mufflers etc etc. There is a easy way to get an extra 17% out of your motor for minumal cost just don't be disappionted with your inabilty to notice it on the road. Take it to a Dyno Jet rolling inertia dyno these things are very common as they are the cheapest on the market they are also the most inaccurate and generally read around 17% higher than anyone else. And yes i have been through the hp should be a hp argument but the basic fact remians and it is well known in the industry. Now why do I treat any claimed perfomance gains with power commanders and other do dads from this company with such skeptisim? You have just found out if they get off thier rings and send out recalibrated software to all thier dyno's they ever sold admitting they !@#$ed up all gratius of course maybe I will be prepared to take them seriously but untill then..... But for a cheap easy boost to your bragging rights, for me I'll take the real reading and thats what it makes I just need to learn to ride it properly.

Front springs aren't expensive $100-130USD plus fitting and is probally the best place to spend money on your bike for road riding (should you need them).

A number of factors like tempreture atlitude etc etc will affect this but with the Daytona undoubtly the extra 1000 rpm till readline works very well with the way hp is calculated. The thing is Guzzi have always only ever cliam 90hp from the two valvers thats at the flywheel. So out of a stock bike there is no way you are going to get 90 hp at the rear wheel the daytonas numbers are around 100hp for the stock motor. But I am sure most are already aware of this. Te MGS01 output will be intresting but the price is just way out of my league well if I want to go super motarding it is.

Without serious engine mods you will not get 90hp at the rear wheel out of a guzzi two valve motor. My 1100 sport which has the striaght cut gearbox which is supposed to transfer the power more efficently than the helical cut five speed with a full tergminoni system and flatslide FCR's professionally tuned (read new ecu optimumally mapped) is punching out around 75 hp at the rear wheel. The tuning guy did say there might be another couple of hp buy leaning the motor out, the day it was dynoed was a mild march day of 38 celcius. Athough come winter it would need to be richened up again and if it was his bike he would leave it alone. As one I prefere ridding with it than fiddling with it and this guy has set up most of the race bikes and is considered the local goto guy I took his advice. Out of ehaust and breathing mods unless the motor is vilonetly restriced you could expect at best a 3-5% gain. So I would be reckoning on you figre been pretty close to the mark.

You could always chuck a deep V sump at it more expense bu how cheap is a motor? intresting cause a friend had a Daytona RS and rode it hard but never metioned this problem (bike mechanic by trade). Athough admitedly on a blast we tend to build to a serious speed and hole it through the corners rather than play drag strip racers at traffic lights.

You don't tend to get an acessory like that without millions in you bank athough rumour has it simliar kind oif things are avalible for hire at an hourly rate from certian less than repatuble establisments.

Airboxes are getting bigger for one main reason to difuse niose engines make all sorts of sucky slurping nioses when they breath in. I have pods fitted to my carbed 1100 sport I cahnged the carbs at the same time however one thing it does do is shorten the intake tract significantly the V11's with thier snorkle nose have pretty well no ram air effect even the earlier 1100 sport/daytonas it had a marginal effect at best (intakes weren't ideally placed. But with a number of vehivles I have found that a shortened intake tract increase response and mid to low end torque where as a long one will give top end power F1 cars an few road vehicles have variable intakes to get the best of all worlds. So K&N's pods would be my suggestion at least you get a nice intake whistle to !@## everyone off with.

It might be than one of your snorkles isn't sealing right and definatly will cause the problem you describe. Might be worth investigating further.

Amp sealed connectors as used on most morotcycles are avalible by mail order from farnell compnets foe about $1usd each in 2-6 pin configurations. http://www.farnell.com/ thier distribution network seems to be pretty comprehensive athough be warned thier cattle log comes in two volumes that are about the size of a medium size phone book.

Dealer is making the right nioses around a Scura so was intrested in what people have fitted weather they needed remapping was it worth it in the end? Would be intrested in specfically any direct experince with the Ghezzi Brian "Furia" styled system for the bike. Kinda like asking about tyre's or oil I know! aproximate Costs etc would also be of intrest.

Ok don't have a six speed but one thing I have found is the condition of the final drive oil is highly critical to the quality of the shift action of the 1100 sport. There is only quarter of a liter sitting in there and if you travel at enthusiastic paces it must get very very hot. I now change the final drive oil every 5000 kms with the engine oil and the gear oils perfomance (as measured by the shift action) is usally marginal by that time. Currently using a nulon gear oil treatment used molykote and various other graphtie treatments can't really ever say they made a big difference tried the redline wonder snot and it was completely catus by around 8000kms and made little to no difference to the shift action. Admittedly the 1100 sport carbe model came out without a cush drive or the heatsink flange around the final drive housing and may run a bit warmer that the other guzzi's. Bike has around 70 000kms on it and travels around 15-20 000kms a year.

Yeah but on the crabed sports they had a 18 inch rear wheel and don't have big loopy wire thing to grind away. Easy to put down with you hand always left it springloaded cause my legs aren't long enough to retract it whilst sitting on the bike.

Most Italian bikes are sprung for a 72 kilo rider 160 odd lbs?? if you are significantly heavier the spring rates will be incorrect the good thing about products like Ohlins WP etc is there is plenty of after market bits avalible off the self. Having your preload at maximum probally means you have over conpressed the spring and it in working in the very last bit of its travel as most MC springs are progressivly wound this also means its working in its stiffest part of its travel. Alternative springs retial for around 120USD plus fitting but you really need to measure static sags etc and take it to a shop that knowes what it is doing. With the conservative geometry of the guzzi you could get away with pulling th forks throuh the clamps but do in in small incremants ie 5mm. You could also try winding the rear preload up a little and backing off the front to get more whieght on the front or running a higher profile rear tyre or a lower profile front. These will affect the way the bike handles and if taken too far will make it susceptable to tank slapping. Having said that I have a 95 1100sport with the forks pulled through 10mm and have removed the steering dampner and had no problems even at race track velocities.

Surely some could go down tot he local joes perfomance exhaust shop and get one bent up even if its only rought out of plain old steel. Hit it with a can of VHT paint and try it out it won't be pretty but would answer the question for a reasonable cost. Then you could go to someone who knowes what they are doing to get a stainless steel made up. Would help if the local proprieter of the exhaust shop is a bike nut.

I think its worth remebering when this engine design rolled off the production line orginally in the 1960's it was designed for ease of maintance and long engine life (for the Italian police) it had three litres of 1960's oil sloshing around in the sump and a filter was a distant thought somewhere in the future. They are not exactly what you would call a high tech highly stresses motor (no matter how hard you think you ride it) I also work on the pricipal that the manufacturer has probally had more experince running these motors that the collective of this forum so I just run with whatever they recommend as they are supposed to be the experts in these cases.

This is one of my major concerns with the V11 as the 1100 sport touches down eventually without the big springy loop attached to the side stand the rider foot peg touches on the other side but when you are wearing the tyres right to the edge front and rear thats enough. Good news on the mufflers that replacement does the trick. I have even considered removing he big wire loop off the V11 hard wiring the cutout switch and putting the bolt from the older 1100sports in the sidestand so it is spring loaded like they used to be athough I could see some people not very keen on that idea. Hmm maybe a new cafe racer with clip ons and a high rise exhaust system is the go hardly ever use the pillon faclities anyway. If someone wants to come riding with me they can bring thier own bike. Might even have enough money for a super motard cause the series is trying to kick off here again localy.

Definatly do the static sags you are wasting you time fiddling with anything before you get them sorted. Good numbers to use for the road 30mm without rider and 45-50mm with rider. Rear numbers 10mm without and 40mm with. However simply adjusting the preloads to get these numebrs arn't the full story if you are a larger type person it will get to the stage where the spring is wound up so tight it has no travel lenght left and handles like crap. the springs free lenght (with wheels off the ground) should be between 5mm and 20mm on the front and between 10-20mm on the rear. These numbers have been lifter directly from the Ducati website I can explain how to get there but a direct link doesn't seem to work we have used them across a wide variety of machines with excellent results. Best thing to do with a dampings is set them in the middle and adjust from there. One thing we did find is with the european machine the adjustments do cover a large range and its easy to get lost fiddling with them and end up with a crap handling machine where as some of the japanese bikes you could adjust them all day long and would be lucky if it made a difference and the handling would still be crap. The rear on the Guzzi's will always be a little harsher than a comparable bike due to the lack of any linkage system athough direct action shocks have come a long way since they were first intorduced. After market springs usally go for $100 plus fitiing for fronts and $200 plus fitting for rears.

The gear level thing is the failing of a $14 spring in the gearbox not a big deal getting one out of MGNA could be a problem. Local spring manufacture is usally happy to help. Don't even need to pull the gear box for that one anymore ethier. Intolerably niosy? the clutches on guzzis are dry and make a bit of niose anyway did it still operate? Just kinda strikes me as a strange problem.

No 011 (I think) Is sitting at the dealer, new in Western Australia. They are actully quiet nice in the flesh when I saw the photo's I though it was a bit too umm intresting. But for me to hand over extra cash for a ltd edition it has to be more than a cosmetic treatment.