pasotibbs

I'd removed the oil drain plug as there may be some slight suction resisting the movement (it certainly makes a sucking sound when it is lifted clear)then find the thicker parts of the final drive casting and using 2 big screwdrivers on opposite sides gently lever the crown wheel cover.I was convinced the casting was going to break but took my time and got it in the end.You could try tapping the cover clockwise or counter clockwise to break the seal that could be how I finally got it free, once it starts to move it comes off easily, I think the metal shim/gasket bonds to the alloy as it corrodes (it certainly was corroded on mine) hope this helps

The bearings have arrived, for those that are interested, they are.. f-213832 £29.10 +vat (this is the big pinion bearing) nk40/20 £23.42 +vat(this is a big needle bearing)although I've been sent a nk45/20 (it says 40/20 on the order) anyone know what this means ? it looks the same dimensions, although the old bearing isn't out yet ! "I 12/16" (Pinion nose bearing) not a 12/16 (the I means it has an internal race and this makes the whole bearing bigger) hk25162rs £8.50 +vat 16016 £52.42 +vat (big crownwheel bearing) still can't get that pinion nut off though even with the back brake on hard it still turns the wheel rather than let go As Andy says an airgun won't shift it either, this looks like being a long job

Does the tail light work ? If not the tail light ground wire could have come off, I'd take the bodywork tailpiece off and check all the wiring connectors, it could also be a faulty resistor (I assume its 1 per lamp) or you've wired the RH indicator backwards (+ to -)

I can't really remember what it looked like as it was in a box in the back of his van , (he was loading up to take to the Trofeo) I just reached in and gave it a wobble to see how it compared It could be that the big split race bearing is loose from new and this allows the Pinion to move slightly which then causes the pinion nose bearing to overload at the tips of the rollers and break up ? Looking at mine the centre of the bearing is only slightly damaged (by the bits falling of the ends ?) but the ends are toast, it could be if you caught it early and adjusted the split race bearing as Pete did in his original post it may be ok I've still got to find a 36mm socket for the pinion nut (I may have to cut it off as you did and deal with that later) I'll let you know if (when! ) I get stuck .

I was told that it had a new Speedo around 5k and I noticed the wobble not that long after I bought it with the new speedo showing 5k so approx 10-12k , but who knows how long its been like that. When I was in France last year I called in at Reboot and noticed they had a V11 final drive for sale but it also had the same amount of play as mine I think that most V11's must have this fault to some degree ? I've just got to work out how to get the bearings out and the new ones in without damaging them , this may be more than a winter project (unless its next winter by the time I finish ) I rang Jack today and he is sorting the bearings out for me.

I noticed the pinion wobble when I greased the shaft joints and as I used to be a car mechanic knew that wasn't right !! After reading Pete's strip down report I took the box to my local dealer, he said that all V11's had the same play and he could strip and replace the bearings if I really wanted but as I was going to the Trofeo Rosso I decided to leave it until the winter, but after reading your report I decided I'd tackle it myself.I haven't ordered the bearings yet but I have your list to work off so I'm hoping to organise that this week (its going to take me a while to remove the old bearings and find a deep 36mm socket for the pinion nut anyway!!)

just stripped my bevel and found this If your pinion wobbles get it checked !!!

I think you should recheck all the fuses (with a mutimeter) as the break could be difficult to see. Its worth checking the battery terminals for tightness also, if the short was only for a second and directly from the positive terminal to a good ground point you shouldn't have damaged the loom as it takes a second or two to get really hot (the burning plastic smell and smoke usually points to that ).The ECU may not be to happy about it though ,but you should get Ign lights etc even if its deceased. good luck

Is it noisey in all gears or just top ? only under load ? I seem to remember that the early 1100 Sports had an issue with the case hardening on 5th gear ?(I know your using a Centauro box but with Guzzi you can never be sure )

I'll also suggest HCP&G (they are, or at least used to be, in Ollerton, Notts.)I used them several years ago for the rusty pitted forks on my GPz550 and the finished result was superb (not as shiny as before but much better quality)

I had the same problem, a new battery cured it. You can prove it if it starts fine with jumper leads from another good battery,car or bike.

I think I read somewhere that careful application of a heat gun helps the crinkle finish form

Don't Guzzi fit the engines to target drones for the US military to shoot at ? Its the only thing that kept Norton in business when they made the rotary bikes (in fact I heard that before Norton folded the engine dept was sold off and is probably still making them now ?)

If I understand correctly (not having seen an exploded drive box) this would stop it falling apart ? Its a bit neater than lockwire, if it works !

I finally got round to stripping the old Sachs Shock It was much easier than I thought it would be, except that when I unscewed the "Eye" casting from the damper rod it cracked around the thread (it was only thread locked on so it seems the casting cracks with little effort which explains a lot )Anyway I thought you guys would like to see.

side stand ?

Just found the correct page http://www.mcmaster.com/ Catolog page 2032 180 deg part no. 1090k47 and 360 deg part no. 1090k44 (more expensive than the other one I found by mistake) I found a 360 deg in the UK but it was £70 without the VAT and Delivery !!

I had my brother waste an afternoon of his holiday in New York looking for one of the 90deg or 360 deg couplers that people here have said work well, but nowhere he tried had heard of them. The latest plan is to order from Mcmaster Carr to a US address (they won't send abroad) and then get it sent on to me in the UK, my brother has friends in the US so this should be possible. The web site seems to have changed since I was last there but I think the 360 deg coupler is part no. 1091K3 but I can't see the 180 deg coupling.

Just seen this on Ebay (search for ohlins on Ebay.co.uk) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OHLINS-REPLICA-SHOCK...1QQcmdZViewItem a replica Ohlins Sachs shock ? (not possible surely )

I had this problem also, if you strip the master cylinder you'll find that the piston isn't returning all the way "off".As the brake fluid heats up it can't expand back into the reservoir (because the hole is blocked by the piston)so it applies more pressure to the caliper pistons creating more heat and so on, and so on, until you reallly notice ! You should find that it isn't possible to bleed the brake or push the pistons back in the caliper if this is the cause of your problem. If I remember correctly there is a Nylon inner to the cylinder and the last 10mm or so needed cleaning up with some fine emery paper.

Thats right Carnells bought Jack Woods business (Kawasaki and Guzzi dealer)and relocated to The Wicker site, they wanted a quick way of opening a Kawasaki dealership in Sheffield. I think that they didn't really want Guzzi so hid them in a corner. (I don't remember seeing them when I went in )

The 1994-1998 Fiat Cinquecento 1.1 has a WM16M ECU not contact breakers. Are you thinking of the 60's Fiat 500/600 ?

Daytime lights for cars and dodgy helmets... Is it me or are they trying to kill us off?

Which Guzzi shop was that ? The only one I remember in Sheffield was Jack Woods on Abbeydale Road.