jcbooghs

THUNDERBIKES ROOKIE CHAMPION 2007 Well done Gyles! Congrats You don't need that MGS Forza Guzzi

This is a must-do! You can lower the bike in front as long as the front fender doesn't hit the fairing while braking. If you lower it too much the bike will ride uncomfortably, too much weight on the front, too much weight on your wrists. I remember the manual of the Sport/Daytona/Centauro mentioned to lower it 5mm ( 0,1968") but the bikes weren't delivered that way. So this was the first thing to do to have a good riding bike at high speed. It is a bit experimental. Start with 5mm and ride it. Then go to 7mm, ride it and feel the difference. Some millimeters can make a huge difference

This is quite right. As we allways think peak-hp. You could make an engine with the max allowed hp all over the line. Imagine you got 60-70hp at 4000rpm instead of 40! When you come out of that corner that would really kick some ass. As I am (still) working on an exhaust, I'm sure I had the right one for you. I had created a real torque bike, I'll try to get a print of the dynorun, but the powercurve crashed at 6000rpm (with allready over 90hp). Obviously 6000rpm is a lot of fun on the streets, on the track you need speed! That's why I'm still working on the exhaust hoping to get 9000rpm out of it. I think a new question would come to mind when you come out of that corner: 'Is it safe NOW! to open the throttle??'

You must be kidding, right? Is this the British Thunderbike regulation? that's 0,55 hp/kg I don't see any (race)bike fitting in here! MGS-01 > 0,63 (according to the specs 122hp/192kg) Raceco > 0,72 (130hp/180kg) even my ol' 2valve > 0,56 !! So if your bike (106hp) is 192kg, you should have one of the fastest in Thunderbike competition? Duc 748R > 0,55 (106hp/192kg) No, not kidding! Just downloaded the 2007_thunderbike-regs.pdf http://www.bemsee.net/index.php?option=com...9&Itemid=40 Is there really a dyno at the end of the race?

Let that powerplant roar, Gyles! Good luck

This is correct, Paul. But we still have to do it with pushrods instead of desmodromic. That's why I won't see it really happen or there must be a really short stroke like the older 70mm strokes did also get 10.000rpm in racetrim. Don't know exactly how long the engine will keep breathing! In race circomstances this is not really an issue.

Hi to all, I'm very 'new' in here and do like this thread so much i can't say 'no words' to all these beauties. It's not a V11 but...I think she matches somehow

Hi, nice to meet u again... virtually this time. Didn't have much trouble fixing the forks and the result is state of art. The feeling now is outstanding. Won't believe 'till you ride it. The best way to show is when taking slow narrow turnings where i had to work fysically to get it done are now allmost easy to take. Have been thinking several times to mount the pegs higher but i can't find a proper rearset that matches. @gyles: I've seen some pics of your bike and wondered what kind of rearset u are using. I'm not tall (and small feet) so the gearlever should be rather close to the peg. (Even the original peg is a bit too far away) to your previous reply: Would you think this should be necessary? I've tried to eliminate the frame part between the gearbox and rearfork. Could be between the ears but it didn't feel quite right. Felt like overloading the rear. But it could also been a wrong tire choice (180/60/17 instead of a 180/55/17) I'v remounted the frame part and a 180/55 and it's much more stable now. Besides, the Sport frame doesn't have the alu strenghtening between gearbox and rearfork. It's a simple frame part that can't work without the alu side plates. If i was to chop off those, i would have to make other strenghtening. I that case I'm not winning anything. (I'm sorry for my 'English'. I'm not really used to speak or write in English. So, I hope everyone does get what I really mean to say)

Always loved to see the Raceco Daytona win races on very high level. Amedeo Castellani helped me out a lot preparing my engine, indirectly. Lots of stuff came from him, like the SS3cam, valves, distribution, carillo rods and especially his 'how to' comment. I'm not with the Keihin FCR's but Mikuni TMR flatslides. Because I still rode on the street those days I needed carbs with choke. That time the Keihins didn't had choke. To loose all the weight I just stripped it completely. I don't have any electrics except for the ignition, a small 7Ah battery, carbonfibre parts, a small 8litre alu fueltank, no starter, no alternator, no speedo, ... just the essentials. The less, the more. The Daytona has the injection, fuelpump and a lot of electrics. I was once in Lydden, must been 10 years ago, but I would like to come over once again.

There ain't no much of racing here. Just like to visit some trackdays occasionally. Real racing is just too expensive. Beside, I've put all the money in the bike! It is a carb model. Sold my Le Mans 850 and T3California to get te money to buy her brandnew back in 1995. I just loved the Sport model, still do. But in 2002 I decided to quit 'racing' on the street and started to chop her. The engine was allready done but she had to loose weight. So I finally ended up with this 165kg (365lbs) and almost 95 hp strong 2valve raging wasp. Backwheel rim is indeed 5,5" (Ghezzi-Brian forged alu wheels) to fit the Michelin Power Race Soft tires. If you click the helmet below you can find some more pics.

Nice to read some people still enjoy Guzzi racing! Hope we meet sometime all together

Go to the Marushin helmets website http://www.marushin.de/ and download the pdf brochure (or try to reach the guys who made this for the real Hi Res pic)