KiloSjon

With the same reasoning I bought a GL1000 some time ago. (600 guilders, approx 300$) Spent more money on it than a similar bike in concourse condition and in the end sold it with a BIG loss... I did not have time, and missed a proper workshop.... this is what I ended up with, 5000 $ and 8 years later... I learned a lot, and probably would do a much better job if I'd do it again (in the meanwhile I practised on my VF1000) but economics?.... If you run into this kind of bikes, the "business case" should be clear up front: time (hrs) + necessary tools ($) + parts ($) + advice/rescue from mechanic ($) = less than price of a similar bike ($) This equation could be changed if you plan on doing serious modification / personalisation...

Ok, thanks a lot for now... I was stuck in the dictionary that said: Er´gal n. 1. (Physics) Potential energy; negative value of the force function. ar·gal (ärgl) n. Variant of argol. ar·gol (ärgôl) also ar·gal (-gl) n. Crude potassium bitartrate, a by-product of winemaking. argal - wild sheep of semidesert regions in central Asia So your answer helps me a lot more...

Ratchethack: thanks for your patience, one last question (I was not familiar with Argal/Ergal): In my understanding it is a hardened form of aluminium, correct? (so not all the colored alu screws are Argal?)

Let's try this one (please comment if needed!) Aluminium: Pro: available in different colors, corrodes slowly Con: Expensive, will break under high tension, but easy to drill out See: AF1 Racing Stainless steel: Pro: will not corrode, no need to treat Con: Expensive, will break under high tension and hard to drill out, if not treated, will cause the surrounding material to corrode faster See: RVS-Bouten-Moeren.nl Argal Pro: Bling, will not corrode, no need to treat, doesn't affect the surrounding material, good usable in medium tension situations Con: Very expensive, only available in gold See: Argal set Normal (hardened) steel Pro: cheap, applicable in high torque situations Con: sensitive to corrosion, needs extra treatment Pfff, hope I have it all right... Does this make sense?.... Was just trying to make up my mind. The standard screws are just plain aluminium (and steel for high tension), right? [Edit] Standard screws are zinc (or other) plated mild steel

Hey mate, let's put another shrimp on the barbie... !?!?!?!?!

He Antionio, Any updates? I was under the assumption that HD's wrinkle paint was the one to get, but I want to know it for sure before spending the EURI's... And: if primer is needed, should this be special (heat resistant) or just regular alu primer? KiloSjon

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Overview of V11 acc Their homepage

I had the same and hooking it up and synchronize did the trick...

Been there, with my VF1000F but same situation. If my wife had let my, I'd run that m*therf*cker in the canal... After a good fix though I still managed to run 30.000kms with it, and we became friends again. But I agree: if you don't feel sure on the bike, you want to get rid of it. Please be aware that a friend of mine had similar problems with his BMW R1150RT and I also had it with my Volvo 850, so don't blame it too much on the Goose, can happen with any vehicle... Just some thoughts...

Cool stuff, probably better than the wire tapping things I use today. I sent them an e-mail asking for shipping to the Netherlands. The other site with the connectors was also usefull, might be relevant for my GPS... (on my previous bike I didn't miss it...)

Until now I didn't attach the power, (I will take it from the headlight before the swithch, like Greg mentioned). I did install the RAM mount. Here some pictures:

Ok, thx. I will post some pics when I installed it (just to complete this topic). (BTW. You certainly have a dreamgarage... can't think of a bike you miss... Norton, Triumph, Guzzi, BMW... Perhaps a Harley WLA, but that's that... )

I have the moto mount from Garmin and a RAM kit. On my previous bike I just routed the wire to the Battery, but I'm hoping there is a more sophisticated way... Where did you put the RAM mount? On the handlebars or on the inside of the fairing? KiloSjon

It was a long weekend in Germany (Schwarzwald). Though there are some beautiful routes to take in the Netherlands, they are becoming rare: speedbumps, Gatso machines, and restrictions on riding on the Dikes (the only roads with beautiful cornering) drive us more in the direction of the Eifel, Ardennes, Luxembourg, Vosges... (where you can perform medium- to high-speed touring without the risk of loosing your license)....

On my tours I really like to use my Garmin Quest. Nice small device that gets me everywhere and provides good trackdata (see below for example a altitude / speed graph. Useless, but fun to make...) Anyways... Now I have the Le Mans, I want to install the Quest. My idea is to take the power from the headlight, that gives me the opportunity to leave the Quest on the bike without taking power and it doesn't require to put long wiring (just in the headlampunit). My "farmersknowledge" (boerenverstand) tells me that 12V = 12V and that it is no problem to get some from the headlight. Any problems there? KiloSjon

If someone wants to get rid of his stock alternator cover (if in good shape), send me a PM... KiloSjon

Thx, I sent him a PM.... In the meanwhile: any resources on which screws would need? (number, length, diameter etc)

Hoerig mooi, I get the Picture... I will try and find him, is Anton also his Nickname? The thing is that I don't know which sizes to order (I also don't know which screws are covered by the Argal set). BTW any follow up on the Arnhem V11 meeting? Postbank? Rondje IJsselmeer?

Thanks for all the ideas... ...another good reason to become MGCN member... Because it doesn't come as a set, and I want to change them over a period of time, is there somewhere a list of V11 screw specs? (then I know what to order)

A little context up front: the previous owner of my Le Mans was a daily commuter and was not interested in optical work. As a result of the winter salt a lot of screws and metal parts are a bit corroded. Keeping my eyes open on the web, I got to this site where they offer this screw kit It looks original, but is it? (the price makes you think it is). Anyone done this? And as an alternative: how to deal with (lightly) corroded screws? A little twist with the Dremel and then some grease? Any tips? KiloSjon

via the german v11 forum

Location added... I was nr 100!!!