docc

I hurt my kidneys laughing at this so hard it had to be set as the "answer", imho. Once again P.Roper keeps us honest. Even if it hurts our kidneys. edit: [I tried to read that post again, completely burst a kidney and am off to hospital. Reader beware!

My wife sometimes comes across similar "projects." (Not motorcycles) I always say, "Sure. If that is what you want to spend your life doing." Very recently I came across a loop frame Eldorado. Black, civilian, original. Running, well cared for, and seen to. Everything I love about those early Guzzi twins. A rather wise sort (you know who you are!) said [and I paraphrase], " . . . to keep [any bike or car] in pristine condition, will go as long as the next issue. On old cars, and bikes, you can never expect them to run perfectly always . . . " To start with something as harsh as that BMW would take tremendous time, devotion, and resources. It is easy to click glasses with @fotoguzzi . . . "Why would you want to spend hours working on that heap when you have a Lemans to ride? "

I reckon I should add this to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist . . . Done: [I also edited the topic title to make this more searchable. Hope this is okay with the OP, @leroysch . . .]

+1 with Lucky Phil.

Are these two current threads about the same thing? Left side airbox crankcase vent oil accumulation that drizzles out and runs down the left side of the gearbox? @Grim, what does that junction look like on your airbox connection to the throttle body?

When I was chasing oil leaks through my "bell housing", I first looked to fit the "Ford coolant hose" that is similar and can be fitted, but the valued consensus was that it would swell and fail. So, I sourced the correct Moto Guzzi vent hose / "breather pipe" 30 157 400 (from MG Cycle). I saved my original as it was not cracked and not leaking in 2014 at about 90,000 miles/ 145.000 km. (My leaks were "elsewhere")

Why is that?

True the "Dave Richardson" Lock Nut makes the synch knob a little more fiddly. It's much like holding the valve adjustment while cinching that lock nut. I do it while watching the balance tool to make sure it doesn't change. There is probably nothing wrong with using a little air bypass to get your outcome. Sounds like a success to me! And you are not the first to express some concern over the unusually loose valve lash listed . . .

This is the injected 1100 Sport-i ? Which ECU does this use? How have you set your valve lash?

Yeah, like, "Hey, hey, bud - gotch'yer relays rat'chere. Need a sprang? You needs a sprang. Gotcha covered, bud . . ."

These observations make me suspect that the inside of our frame spines, that are supposed to drain the liquid oil portion of our crankcase breather, can become compromised (clogged or restricted) and force more crankcase breather oil through the left side of the airbox.

With so many miles/kays on my Spiner, I wonder about what is inside that frame spine. If it is cloggy, maybe more of the oil portion is being forced to the airbox? Perhaps, open the top front, release the return line from the sump, and flush the spine out with "something?" I was thinking kerosene or mineral spirits, but maybe there are dedicated fluids for this task . .

Is it wet around the outside of it, or is all that oil coming from the crankcase venting and trying to get out from inside the airbox on the left side?

My old tub may be breathing rather more oil into its airbox than most. Yet, it is not on its sidestand very much, living rather languishingly above the footlights on her dais. Still, that "vapor line" from the frame spine to the airbox connects to the left side? Am I recalling that correctly? And it only pushes on? No clamps?

This is really interesting. My right side airbox boot is totally dry and my left is scuzzy with oily deposits and accumulation like @leroysch shows. Yet all of the "bell housing" area leaks, including the nefarious crankcase vent tube have been seen to on my Sport in the last couple years. Something is escaping us?

You are 1) right, 2) right, and 3) correct. That's three for three! These closed loop crankcase breathers are designed to separate the vapor portion (line to the airbox) from the liquid portion (frame spine through the return line to the sump). Some work better than others and the V11 design is not very effective at the separation, IMO. As a result, too much oil (not just vapor) ends up through the airbox. You may find that the hose connections between the top-front of the frame spine and the airbox could be more snug. Or that line has degraded.

Correct. True High Current micro-ISO relays.

Ah, yeah, I remember now. Running (even a good quality) 20 amp relay in a circuit pulling 22.5 amps can become an issue. The G8HE OMRON is 35 amps NO, IIRC. I realize you're looking for something specific to the left cylinder, but a general problem with the Fuel Injection/Ignition system could be suspect as well. Perhaps just swapping Rely #5 for #4 (the ECU real is pretty understressed) is worth a try and easy. Also, there are some nefarious spade connectors beneath the fuse block that feed the FI/Ignition through fuses #1 and #2: (The fuse block will just pry up out of the rubber mounts without messing with the fasteners.)

Worth lifting those boots and seeing what is underneath. Mine was not only that corroded, but the metal connector had broken in two. Have I asked you, lately, what relay you're running in Position #5?

True, that. I recall reports that the injectors are extremely difficult to extract, even on the bench. @Grim, have you looked at the ignition wire under the boot where it leaves the coil?

This is my closing statement in Step 6) Idle Speed of the "Decent Tune-up" . . . "Don't worry over the *degrees of opening* or the TPS idle voltage; seriously, just put the idle where the motor idles nicely for your conditions and liking. Once Steps 1-5 are set, you can put the idle anywhere you want. But you cannot start here."

Here are a couple of Meinolf's posts where he confirms the "opening at idle is not critical" . . . "The opening at idle is not critical. It will be what results out of setting the required idle speed with both cylinders synchronized carefully." "The value after reconnecting the linkage doesn't have to be 525mV. It can be 500 or 400mV. The ECU will interpolate anyway (unless you follow below procedure, then your idle setting is exactly at a break point). Set it so the specific bike idles best." [docc added the emphasis.]