docc

Have you tightened up your gearbox angle drive? That can sometimes settle the bounce down a bit . . . for a time . . .

The Bungendore Beastie! Interesting that for 3 1/2 decades we differentiated (BigBlock) Guzzis by the frames (Loop, Tonti, SpineFrame), then came the CARC! Visually, the CARC looks so big and heavy, it is interesting to hear that it is actually lighter than the V11 shaft assembly + reardrive. How much difference is there, Pete?

Well, I'm not finding the thread I as thinking of. When my clutch failed to disengage, I found the gearbox input hub had loosened from a failed safety washer:

I seem to recall someone just struggling with this and found one (or both) of the friction plates reversed. You do say "the clutch plates are in correctly" so perhaps this is not the case for you. I cannot recall who's thread that was, but I'll look for it . . .

Isn't there some engineering principle that uses an echo from the exhaust in harmony with the valve overlap to enhance cylinder filling? I was under the impression that's what "crossovers" and header lengths were about?

Back on topic, I must agree that purging old hydraulic fluid is best for our V11 every year or so ( I try for every tire change). Yet, dragging the master cylinders through the entire range has not been best method. Very interested in this: https://www.motiveproducts.com/products/power-bleeders-power-bleeders-domestic-bleeder-kits-power-bleeders-import-bleeder-kits-power-bleeders-single-adapter-bleeder-kit-power-bleeders-classic-car-and-marine-kits Can we get caps to fit our clutch and rear brake, as well as the front master reservoir?

What was it about bleeding our hydraulics? Epic thread drift . . . "Don't make the big, gold lady spank your bacon slicer!"

Seems we already have a thread for that . . .

Oh, yeah, I remember when my pre-CARC driveshaft took on its own personality . . .

Okay, just a stab at levity . . . "CARC: Cardano Reattivo Compatto (Compact Reactive Diveshaft)"

My Italian is not so good, but . . . Chiacchieroni e (And) Ridacchio Cento ( maybe not, but Italian is fun to cross up! Just read your Workshop Manual!) [my bad translation from above: "Talkers Giggle x 100"]

Don''t make me re-post that classic image of the RedFrame Green V11 Sport with matching attire and Lucite stilettos to emphasize the proper orientation . . . This is a Technical Topic, after all. And The Moderator is always lurking . . .

This has always been my personal preference. YMMV . . .

Is that motor injected? What ECU are you using?

Thanks for the numbers! I'd ask how long it takes to drop to 12.65v, but we're talking about a V11 LeMans that never sits that long!

Perhaps clutch plate clatter. Especially if it changes clutch in and out. And with the idle that low it is going to slap around more. if you hold the rpm up to around 1100 does the clatter quiet down?

I believe shoowdave's overnight change looks really good. My "strong" PC545 dropped to 12.78v (~98%) overnight and still there 6 hours later. Will monitor the interval of time until discharge/charge is required at the 12.65v (85%) threshold. Unless I get to ride this weekend, then "never-mind" . . .

Pretty much the same as your existing coils, then?

I always forget that the "weekend after Labor Day" is, technically, still summer. Gonna miss y'all, Chuck! Already looks like a very interesting representation of SpineFrames in the mix. I used to think we should plan on some sort of interesting TechSession, but learned that one or more or our Guzzi already have TechSessions in store for us . . . Hence our adopted motto: Get there. Bring tools.

Hmm . . . a SmartGuzzi? Pretty sure I'll have to keep using my voltmeter. Someone asked me how long a PC545 should take to drop from charge termination to 100% (12.84v), then to the 85% (12.65v) threshold to recharge. I just terminated my Sport's 6 year old PC545 (not the ten year old in swampee-the-test-bed) from the EnerSys 6amp Ultimizer at 13.56 volt "float" after a discharge/charge session a couple days ago. I consider this a strong AGM, even serving the Sport six years. Perhaps the drop intervals will be helpful to those trying to assess the strength of theirs. I could not imagine running a V11 reliably, long term, without a quality DVOM.

As a fan of Johnny Cash's, "I've Been Everywhere, Man," this parody cracks me up . . .

How about posting the resistance of the primaries for comparison when they show up!

So, all batteries are charged at voltage above their 100%, but no battery will hold voltage above 100%. Any voltage drop after charging down to 100% is normal. How long it takes to drop (minutes, hours, days) can give some indication the battery's general health. The longer it takes to drop to 100%, then 85%, the stronger the battery is. The temperature corrected values are not radically over a 20ºF range.

I know my modern passenger vehicles with 6-7 quart/liter sumps and extended change intervals have made me complacent in keeping the oil "up on the stick" (some don't even have "sticks!"). Coming up on an oil change with those sumps a quart low is no big deal, apparently. Yet, they are not some air-cooled performance motor ready to shift the volume of available lubricant dramatically aft at the whim of the throttle twist up some exciting grade . . . Makes me glad to have raked my "sags" forward and stiffened the rear substantially. No more "squat" in hard acceleration.