docc

That looks to be a *bruise* from where the integrated reflector fell off and rubbed around on the surface.

Nailed down a room (and a garage space) at Walt&Anna's LodgeatTellico for the "Weekend after Labor Day." Show up (ya'll). Bring tools.

This is what I remain most interested in . . . Thank you, Guzzi2Go for the excellent input and assistance in making this thread the best it can be for all V11 owners with these AGM (VRLA) batteries!

I see the Odyssey charger bulletin has been superseded (link repaired). I believe the "comments" on the 2011 document are pertinent to the charge current discussion:

The regulator gives me about 14.35v with no load. When the issue occurs, my thought would be that an overvoltage would occur, causing the ecu to switch off. I checked the coils, they measured out fine, plus I cannot imagine them both failing together, as both cylinders have the misfires. My, my . . . such an elusive problem! Beneath the fuse block, both Fuse#1 and #2 have additional spade connectors that are for the ECU and Fuel Injection relays. These are easy to inspect, clean and secure. Yet, they will not create that unusual rattle noise. Timing chain/ tensioner failure? Would that be revealed by observing the timing marks with a strobe when the stumble occurs?

The current (eighth) edition of the Odyssey manual only has the "minimum charge current " language specific to each battery model(page 14, Table 3: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-TM-002_1214.pdf I realize that the discharge method is not in the manual unless the battery is deeply discharged, yet I have found the technique effective. Especially when a battery develops the 15v maximum voltage very quickly, the discharge helps (apparently?) get *deeper* into the plates.

All good thinking and well said. The EnerSys technical document I linked is, obviously, for deeply discharged batteries. As such, the discharge voltage of 10 volts (hopefully) does not apply to our situations. The 12.65 volt threshold is in the PC545 owner's manual with the emphasis that the battery should be "kept near full charge, approximately 12.8 volts." I am looking further for the references to "unlimited" amperage. The most often repeated concept is that the minimum amperage must be applied in order to effect a charge (6 amps "minimum" for the PC545), and that low amperage "trickle" or float devices will not charge the AGM battery and will be damaging if below 13.2 volts.

Docc, Any news on your seat project? Ah, man . . . my seat guy *retired* the very week I got your spare seat. Somewhere between my custom seat design *idea* and redesigning the Tekno pannier mounts is a happy change to my hi-mile sport.

Guzzi2Go, thank you for your excellent post! I have edited and amended my posts throughout the thread. As you say, no more than 15vDC charging! (Amperage is "unlimited", but should not be below 6 amps to *charge* the PC545). Regarding the "battery priming" (discharging before starting or charging?): >Here is the reference post: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838&p=201259 >The post with the "empirical" observation: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838&p=208912 > This is the *technical bulletin* that I have referenced for some of my conclusions: http://www.cdtechno.com/pdf/ref/41_2128_0212.pdf > EnerSys (Odyssey) technical reference: “reconditioning charge cycle procedure.” Note "Action Procedure: 1. Discharge the battery . . ." http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf

There is the wonderful Caspers TPS Breakout Harness that Danl had produced for us. I could not find my TPS fault using (milli)voltage readings on my Triplett meter, but when I read the resistance through the potentiometer while slowly opening and closing the throttle, the *jump* in resistance showed the fault clearly. If you are using guzzidiag, you can monitor a selection of sensors and watch at the failure point for any that demonstrate a sudden and unexpected reading.

Heh . . . The early steel bucket Bosch was prone to spitting off the integrated reflector that sits in front of the bulb. Is that what is in there scraping around against the reflector?

Looks like Walterg is building a seat. Looking forward to seeing the outcome! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&p=221892

Walterg, It would be great to see you post the progress of your new seat in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19683&hl=custom+seat

Hi, Joe! Good luck on the search. Since there can be no replies on this thread, consider adding some contact information by editing your first post. Also, nothing wrong with starting your own thread on your V11 odyssey in "24/7 V11" . . . (I noticed your post in the Introduction Thread). Recently (June 8, 2017), a Tenni was sold on ebay. Check it out: Downers Grove, IL, $7,732US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Moto-Guzzi-LeMans-Tenni-/162537857624?hash=item25d802e258:g:Mj8AAOSwi7RZMFaI&vxp=mtr Keep an eye on the Craigslist/ebay/V11FS Thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18375&page=19&do=findComment&comment=221862

My, my . . . .

This thinking makes me wonder if the vent is still calibrated to speeds common to the late '60s V7 and might benefit from being enlarged for today's speeds and horsepower?

This photo is too thin to do the magic to?

If I had a second V11 Sport (why would I do that? Scud, help me out here, buddy!), I might would go after the green frame/ black body. Maybe even take a shot at the stripe set. Haven't seen that done . Yet . . .

Ok, so, swooshdave, this came up in the Zinc Chromate thread: a black V11 sport with the green frame of the 1000S . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19689&p=214814 Take some pics of your bike and do this thing, man! *V11/S*

Passage to Alderaan . . .

Here we go . . . making the jump to light speed . . . and to Tech Topics . . . http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19987

Zinc Chromate!

Seriously, that concerned me. But I figured "$28US", whatever. Hey, it may not be 4300K, but more likely 5000 to my un-calibrated eye. Yet, it works so great and your comment about >being seen And "consider myself lucky!"

So you want one of us to get the 3000K version and see how yellow it is? The box mine came in doesn't list the 4300K, and none of the product options were ticked (3000K/yellow; 5000K/Warm White; 6000K Cold White; 8000K/ Cold Blue; 10000/ Blue). So, I don't know what this one actually is, but it is not as "warm" as I expected. It concerned me that it would come in too "yellow", so I'm good with it for now. I'll let you know what happens when I encounter fog or rain. This business of "color" of LED headlamp units remains unanswered.