docc

Thinking about it rationally (now that I'm not marooned), it seems we could have put the cables on from the car for the charging session and with the ignition and Run Switch off, the ECU would never know what we were up to. It was probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery ground. Yet, is there some electro-ugliness that might have wreaked some sort of havoc on the regulator or stator?

Still riding on high hopes that the simple discovery is the Real Solution! Once we gave the battery a little charge we did push it off. I was actually surprised it went as far as it did on the brief charge. I'm thinking just jumping it wouldn't have given the battery anything unless I had found/replaced the bad fuse at the time.

Once home and seeing no charge light and no charge, I thought for sure I was in for a regulator. While my 30 amp MAXI fuse "looked" ok when I "inspected" it on the roadside, it was open without looking burned. I found the positive lead to my terminal block had loosened up. After tightening the connection and replacing the fuse, she was, once again, Running GREAT! I'm thinking some arcing on the loose connection blew the fuse over the last thousand miles since I had that all apart. I feel stupid I missed the blown fuse on the roadside, so I got one of those "Smart Fuses" that light an LED when they blow. With the battery so flat, I don't think it would have jumped off anyway, but I'd like to learn what the big deal is jumping off motorcycles - why is it so taboo? Or is that just Bad Forum Science? (left:SmartFuse/right:bad fuse)

Having ignored the obvious signs of a charging failure (no "battery" light key on/pre-start), the Sport left me stranded on the byway. The battery tested flat (10.5 volts) and would only click the solenoid briefly. My son was kind enough to bring some cables and I disconnected the negative lead and let his 325i juice up the dead Hawker for a few minutes bringing it to 11.9 which got me home-(ish). So, I got some cables to carry on the bike, but I'm vague on the warnings about jump starting the V11. What's the real deal?

Yesterday, humming along blissfully on the long way home from work, she began to sputter and pop. Hmmm, "dysignitionism" I mused with a chuckle. Then realizing the tach was showing 2,000 rpm at about 70 mph I found a shady place to park up before she sputtered to nothing. 10.5 at the battery. After a jumper rescue and barely home I found no charging, a loose positive battery connection from the regulator and open 30 amp fuse. Ah - that's why the battery idiot light did not show at start-up! Idiot light indeed. After tightening the connection and replacing the fuse, I realized how much crisper and sharper it is running. It wasn't running "bad" before the fuse opened, but just back to "running GREAT!" The experience makes me think that clean, tight connections in a well functioning charging system is one of the major keys to a great running V11.

Denis, I've had a couple single malts that aren't "scotch." The Japanese Yamazaki is very nice, smooth without any bite; reminds me of the Highland Park that classy gentlemen prefer . From Oregon, USA, McCarthy's has a bit more of the smokiness I prefer (Even though they threw an "e" into the whisky ) The Islays draw me in otherwise - Laphroaig or Lagavulin. I wonder if the Welsh single malt is in the States. How would you describe its character?

Interesting testimony to the clever Scots that American bourbon must be aged in new oak that is often (so I've "heard") owned by the scotch distillers and leased to the American distillers. The thrifty Scots then get the barrels at a reduced cost with free extra flavors!

Steve, it sounds like maybe your right throttle wasn't completely closed for the 150 mV baseline. (It doesn't matter if the left on completely closes). With the linkage off, release the high idle cam and cable, then back out the right idle stop screw until the mV reading stops changing. At this point, press the throttle further closed - if the reading goes down further, clean the throat, plate, and shafts. Once you are convinced the plate closes fully, set the 150 mV baseline. Also, be sure the throttle bodies are in close balance before setting the final idle. You can fine tune the balance later.

Scroll down this thread in FAQ: TPS Setup and Throttle Balancing It shows several options on measuring the TPS and discusses adjusting it.

Hubert (luhbo) seems to know these tachs pretty well. Perhaps he'll chime in (?) Kiwi_Roy, too . . .

Time to inspect and clean the run switch? And perhaps the ignition switch for good measure?

"Why's the (whisky) always gone? . . . Oh. That's why."

Kyle Racing in Sand City, CA has a good reputation with Öhlins. Wish I had the answers on the brake and triple clamp fitment . . .

Should I be shocked that Guzzi guys gravitate to whisky that smells like gearoil leaking on an exhaust crossover?

One ground is the bulb socket for the illumination. They are certainly known to get loose and can be secured with JB Weld or the likes while leaving enough contact area for a ground path. The other ground must be for the tach function, but doesn't show a wire. I would assume it also grounds, then, through the case and mounting fasteners. I'm thinking that single pole AMP connector is under the relay block at the back of the wiring harness.

The #32 "electric fuel solenoid valve" is the electric (pet)cock fitted to the left underside of the tank on chin-pad tanks through 2002. Many have been removed and fitted with manual versions. If yours still has the electric (pet)cock, make sure the wires to it under the rubber boot are intact. If they (or one) become(s) broken, the fuel delivery will be obstructed. Repair the connection and secure with a dab of epoxy.

The front half of the shaft is only removable from the gearbox output with the swingarm off. Otherwise, with the bike supported and rear wheel off, the bevel box comes off easily by pulling the shaft apart (make sure the reference marks are visible or add some). With the front u-joint rotated with the Zerk on top, it may be possible to get some grease in it with all the methods posted above combined with cursing and swearing. And since you've got the cursing and swearing down already, hell, you're halfway there!

Like a puppy that just ate your shoes . . .

Isn't it amazing that those fuses will melt like that and not "blow?" I'm still in awe of those of you who change your pawl springs on your way somewhere!

Sounds like you could use a meter with more sensitivity (like a 200 Ohm range).

I would think water might further deform the tank material as it does with various polyamides. Exposure to air is more likely to restore the original shape. How full was the tank when you removed it?

I wasn't getting the resistance readings either. Until I disconnected the negative to the battery and turned the switch on. I went from the outboard fuse 6 connector (fuse out) to the outboard relay connector: 0.8 Ohms. As I recall, the ignition switch drops out the bottom of the triple clamp after taking out these two screws:

Having experienced this with a full tank of fuel, I am always careful to drain the tank to minimum before removing it. It is still hard to compress it to reinstall, but not impossible. It will be worth draining it, straddle the tank over a central support overnight, and reinstall by pressing firmly from back to front while someone stabilizes the bike.

With the middle relay out, the bike will start and run with the side stand up regardless of whether the gearbox is engaged. All the Run Switch power simply comes through the side stand switch and involves no relay. No jumper required.