docc

RHIP, do you still have the battery hold down strap? If the seat is bearing down on the battery, you can generally see crush/cut signs on the strap.

I looked for any pictures of how I dropped my battery basket, but no joy. Basically, you take the front mounting tabs and place them below the subframe instead of on top. The trouble with this method is if the fasteners fail or come loose the basket drops onto the shock. Use good fasteners, "Nylock" nuts, LocTite or the like. One of those anecdotal modifications that are for reference purposes only.

Wheelbase measurements were somewhat mystifying, though. The early RedFrame V11 Sport is a full inch (24mm) shorter than the Sport1100/1100 Sport-i: 1471 vs 1495mm, 25º rake vs 26º. (The later V11 "long frames" of 2002 on are 1490/25º). Yet all of our axle to axle measurements are 6 or 7mm (~1/2 inch) shorter than the published specification. Hard to comprehend that dropping the tiples and increasing the rear pre-load/ spring rate could shorten the bike a half inch? Not that I speak any calculus. Could be vagueries in the method . . . "You're a poor scientist, Dr. Venkman."

I wasn't sure what to think. I knew it wouldn't be 50/50, and 40/60 would be a disappointment, so I suppose 43/57 is pretty decent, especially with the Tekno panniers in place. And the weight, also. I used to say the bike would be out of gas at 500 pounds (227 kg). Looks more like 515 is run dry, but again that's with kit in the panniers. So, not too bad?

LukyPhil's amazing V11 Shift Improvement thread in "How To . . . " http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547

I did not realize you could do that. I used thin washers to shim mine up just a hair. Mine doesn't appear adjustable or slotted.

Revealing results. We all know the big block Guzzi are "rear weight biased." I thought I addressed this by setting my sags (32mm front/ 25 mm rear) and dropping my triples 5mm. Yet, I carry a good bit of kit in the Tekno panniers (about 18 pounds) behind the rear axle. With Mistral carbon fiber canisters (saves 5 pounds per side) and no US evap system (another 5 pounds), this 2000 V11 Sport weighs 543 pounds/246 kg. Weight distribution, with rider/ Aerostich/ helmet on board: 43/57% front:rear. Curiously, the Sport 1100 showed identical distribution even with sags 25/31mm front/rear.

I'm assembling a platform to (attempt to) put my Sport up on two classic Fairbanks-Morse physician's scales. One of the other forum members has a Sport1100 that may be getting new front end, and this is one way to try and assess the changes. Looking for a third hand, or some method, to have the rider in place while the measurements are taken. This could certainly go all hair-brained . . .

Setting up sports cars is so about "weight distribution" (50/50, and all that). With sporting motorbikes, we often talk of "weighting the front." And with these bevel drive Guzzi, the worry about the rear weight bias. So, another member and I are looking to compare "sags" and weight distribution, but what to expect? Not 50/50 like a sport car? 60/40? What?

That bike is featured in Custom Bikes, From Factory to Fantasy, Volker Koerdt, editor, 1994, Transedition Books. The build is credited to Gerhard Klein of a LeMans II engine tuned by Newton Equipment of London and a LeMans IV for running gear, body parts are chromed hand-beaten steel, and paint by Woodings of Ashford, England. There are seven gorgeous photos of the bike in the book including a two page spread. Yet, no accompanying earrings . . .

While most of us refer to that as the "chin pad," I see my parts listing calls it the "plug block" (never noticed that before!), GU 011 04030 MG Cycle, in neighboring Wisconsin, is a good parts source (but not in the dealer network), also: AF1 Racing in Texas, and Moto International in Seattle. There are a others and you'll find one you like the best. With rodent damage, I would second Kiwi_Roy's recommendation to carefully inspect the wiring.

Depending on what relays are in it now, that is likely one of the first, cheapest and best improvements you can make. Get good GEI from PyroDan (http://www.dpguzzi.com/ )or best OMRON from DigiKey. Fuses "should be" fine, but especially look at the ignition switch fuse (if blown, cllean and inspect the ignition switch), and the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of overheating (see threads on the MAXI fuse). With some patience and some enthusiasm for tinkering, you're going to love this V11!

I removed the tiny contacts from the fuse box and soldered the MAXI fuse holder into the stock wiring from the regulator to the battery.

Swapping the fast idle spring and the seat latch spring often makes both of those easier to operate, but I think Stew is onto it: the early seats tend to sit on the battery (or too much in the tool tray). Inspect the bottom of the seat pan for signs of contact. I've used a hand grinder ("Dremel") to relieve the pan, but also lowered the battery basket forward fastening to under the rear sub-frame to ensure no pressure on the battery case.

Keep us posted of the solution you find and the outcome. There is nothing quite like a V11 in perfect tune!

Hey, The Ozarks would qualify for a South'n Spine Raid - maybe we should all tag along . . . My flinky little fuse contacts had been hot so many times, they would not hold tension. I even tried an external fuse holder, but found the ATC fuses just too small for the current load. My solution here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=148983

Swing by the South'n Spine Raid in Tellico Plains, TN, Sept 9-11 and get a look at how some other V11 have been modified. We're not beyond rewiring yours in the garage there. While you sleep.

Thanks for the local intel, waspp! Hope you swing by for a visit!

That makes perfect sense. I suppose, being the Luddite I am, the different header pipe colors made me want to put the mercury sticks on it and give it proper balance. That I simply could not was a bit of a frustration.

I seem to recall that it was about replacing the output shaft belville washer pack that provides shock absorbsion. There may have been another mod as well at the same time, gear selector drive rings seems to also ring a bell. Ciao Yup -"washer stack" and "sliding dogs." Funny thing, this is what brought me to this forum back in 2003. I kept telling Guzzi (my dealer) that something had gone awry with my shifting. Another popular US forum basically told me I was clueless and couldn't shift a toilet valve. At the time I had over 25,000 miles on the Sport and knew something was off. Through the diligence of my dealer, Guzzi finally replaced the entire gearbox. The recall followed shortly thereafter. I remember posting on this forum, at the time, that we were the world's foremost experts on the "new" Guzzi 6speeder. Even more-so now! Here's to members like LuckyPhil and Bjorn and so many others that take the time and care to share such detail and outcomes.

Seems that recall was early (into 2001?), but not the Ballabio of 2003-2004. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14680

i was looking at a Sport1100 this weekend and it seems the front axle spacer was on the left. Not sure at all if the forks are the same, although these did screw the axle directly into the left fork.

Such nice work! Well done. I wonder if the folding toe tab would significantly reduce the chance of snapping off the lever in a tip-over, which is so likely with the original cast pieces?

The V7 hasn't acted up again since the dealer service about a month ago. I don't think he rode it more than a few times before this last weekend, but then we did over 500 miles in a variety of conditions with a good number of restarts both cold and hot. Seems to be running swimmingly. I also see the the header color is even now. It always bothered me that the left pipe was a brighter blue like it was too lean. That was especially troubling since it is a single throttle body. And, even in the company of a couple noisy big blocks, the V7 with the Mistrals sounds absolutely fantastic!