docc

Uh oh, my stones are just not that cold . . .

The RTV didn't stick at all. On to JB Weld now. Will try a ride tomorrow and see. After stripping the heads on both the fasteners, and doubling my vocabulary, the price of admission is looking more reasonable . . . I fear I may have contributed to this by using the CI-4 5W-40 oil "designed for 15W-40 applications"); Back to 20W-50SG now.

Good advice from Buzzard! And now I know what is meant by "luftkammer" (air chamber)! I use a 100mm air chamber to good effect. Maybe this change I'll try 110. Fork oil viscosity varies wildly even within the same SAE "weight." A better measure is CentiStokes at a given temperature (usually hot, say 40C). Here is a great technical site to look at various brands: Peter Verdone Designs . I favor a 5wt in the lightest of the range (15 cSt). I've thought of using an even lighter oil in the rebound side, but just haven't gotten it together to try that yet. ATF is also highly detergent and should give your forks a loverly scrub out after some few miles. Even more better is be certain you have the right springs (probably stiffer than stock) on reassembly.

It's been a while, but I recall driving mine out with a long punch flattened on one side. There is not much to get a bite on, but once it starts moving you can walk it out. Hopefully, someone will chime in that has either done one more recently or has a better remembery. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you've had your Sport 9 years and have only now made your first post! Welcome to the slippery slope and watch out for the Guzzichondria!

I don't think I've seen an aluminum tank on a spine frame. Have you looked at Ghezzi-Brian?

Interesting. Yet, dealers for those cars are the only ones more rare than Moto Guzzi here in the states. Maybe "online." Thanks for the details. I'm warming up my tube of RTV silicone as we speak . . .

The seal doesn't appear to be leaking on this one. The oil looks to be pushing through the sensor itself. A new one is 167USD, or a couple hundred bucks / a-buck-euro-fifty. Too many lire to count. Crazy. I'll have to try and have my way with it using my arsenal of sealants and adhesives. 150 Euro . . . I just can't. Please say a little prayer for my RTV silicone.

Good point as usual, Hubert! I'll get a call in to my World Famous Parts Man.

So, all this time I've followed the advice of the Old Timers on valve adjustment: "Make sure she's STONE COLD!" In the interest of science and precision, I've developed a repeatable method to ensure the proper degree of coldness.

Having discovered the whole left side of the engine oily and dirty, I've been chasing a leak which has led me to the phase/revolution sensor. After a new O-ring and such, it looks like the oil is coming through the sensor. Could it be so? Can this be sealed?

That's true for a wet cell battery, but the AGM battery from Hawker (like the original "Spark") is 100% at 12.84.

So, worse even. How to solder a plastic can? As if a "tin can" didn't sound cheap enough!

What a fantastic looking motorcycle! All the details will come together! Tom, kindly show your general location in your "profile", it is most helpful for others responding. Otherwise, you could be given Fahrenheit instructions...

The first 200 miles after the oil change there was a drip or two. Now, in the second two hundred miles, it only looks splattery, kind of dirty, a little wettish. But no drip. Maybe better enough to observe it for a another couple hundred miles. I have been such a RedLine fan. This is a bit of a disappointment.

Hey! Who's bike you callin' a "tin can?"

I thought the entire VIN was pertinent in recall notices. Your "X3" is, I believe the code for "2003" and "M" is "made in Mandello. Greg sees alot of these, so maybe he can straighten us out . . .

I did a cold drain and refilled with normal G-5, made a few runs totaling under 200 miles and warm drain and refill with the G-5 80W-90. Not much pink left and the leak seems more of a seep now; definitely slowed it down. I wish I thought it would keep getting better, but I'm afraid that thinking is far too wishful. Parts order tomorrow. The diagram shows a big o-ring. Suppose that ought to be on hand as well?

Let's do this when snow is on the ground......... No luxury of waiting for snow. I need to have the Sport ready for a serious sport-tour in four weeks where I show the BMW/KTM/Triumph and Honda guys how the Guzzi can hang . . . Or, no . . . Again, these guys are like going for a little hike in the woods. With Army Rangers. I wake up in a cold sweat to ,"Your Guzzi breaks down, we're splittin' up your gear!" :ninja: Then, two weeks later, off to Barber's for the Vintage Festival. Fabulous event and I've thought of taking the (almost) old Honda.

What kind of puller?

Vuzzi, How many total kM on your V11?

Sounds like a plan. When pulling out the pinion, is it best to replace the front seal also?

Greg, I think you're right about the inner seal. It can be changed without removing the outer seal? (I don't really want to do that one again also) The leak certainly seems less with the normal G-5, but it definitely hasn't stopped.

Oh, this hurts. The NEW speedo began to wag wildly more. I discovered both the upper and lower bevel drives were loose and tightened them ( the upper is bound to the back of the speed with two slot screws). Being a rather impatient sort, I filled the cable housing with engine assembly moly lube as well. The stability of the needle was really amazing! Right up to the point where it quit while I was actually watching it at speed! NERTS! Taking it all down, I found the lower bevel drive had stripped a gear. I replaced it with one from my 10 year collection. Tomorrow I'll take it out for a throw. What is the proper grease for those gears (nylon, no)?

I had the exact same problem with mine using Redline. I changed both of the seals and it only stopped the leaking temporarily. I'm guessing your leaks first started only after being on the highway going over 70mph? Then it progressively gets worse from there. Long story short, just use regular gear oil or what the manual calls for. When I drained the redline from my box and put plain gear oil in there the leaking stopped. I'm thinking the redline is just a little too slippery for the rear drive seals. So, I drained the Redline. Twice now. I keep thinking the drizzle gets better. Did yours take a few miles a change or two to "seal?"

Hi, Motocomiot! Lot's of good advice so far (and so fast!). It would be first to consider the Relay 2 ("headlight relay"), but if the headlight and horns work, and the regulator is charging above the battery voltage , it more likely the connector from the headlamp shell across the headset and found under the tank. The stud mounts for the tach can loosen and compromise the ground path. They are quite easy to tighten and anchor with a proper epoxy. Tools may make the man, but a good multi-meter makes the V11 owner!