dlaing

I don't soak mine, I put it on lightly, just making sure the cotton absorbs some oil over every square inch. Perhaps soaking is better Any other opinions? Also, instead of Simple Green I use Tide Mountain Fresh scented.(I prefer unscented, but get what is on sale...) Any reason laundry detergent would be bad?

Glad to here you are doing better. Did Ghezzi-Brian use Brembo wheels?

#4 Bad fuel map. (I wonder how many PCIIIs have been sold in the world?!?)

Do women know that Morningwood usually means we were thinking about some other lady(ies) I don't dare ask my girlfriend so I thought I'd ask the truly enlightened. Thanks in advance!

The oscillation of their sucking so bad can cause head shake overpowering the gyroscopic forces holding up the bike.... or maybe it was the GS that caused the sensation of head shake

The spring inside the master cylinder SHOULD push the piston past the relief port. Grunge on the piston cylinder or a worn spring may impede the important feature of a relief port. If the freeplay is zero, or positive, fluid expansion should push the piston to the relief port if the spring failed to(kind of a natural safety feature). However, if the fluid boils, all bets are off as it may lock faster than the relief port can let out the fluid. Which is the cruxt of Ratchet's argument, that keeping water and air out of the lines, through frequent fluid replacement, is the most important thing you can do If the freeplay is substantially NEGATIVE, it would prevent the piston from retreating past the relief port when the fluid expands. This expansion will push the pads against the break causing more heat, more expansion and deadly brake lock. EDIT good morning I see Ratchet already answered.

Heh! I shouldn't laugh, as I am responsible for a good portion of those pages, especially the ECU thread

somehow it is appropriate!

You should start adding some more to "the Rules", like taking dilligent care of the rear brake, changing the rear axle spacer, greasing the rear splines, buy a proper battery charger for the Hawker, etc.

I have found that my pinging seems to continue after the throttle has been opened. My bike with the ECU unmodified pings from about 4500 to 5500 RPM at WOT (and other large throttle openings). So, when I am going up a steep hill in sixth gear at 4000 RPMs and I whack open the throttle, I accellerate initially without pinging, and then ping from about 4500 to 5500 rpms. But if I I am going up a steep hill in sixth gear at 4500 RPMs and I whack open the throttle, I ping immediately and continue to ping from about 4500 to 5500 rpms. I don't know if my bike is just like Motoguzznix', but his graph shows SOME leaness in the area where mine pings. I never ping at 3000 rpm but Motoguzznix does. I guess I have to get a WBO2 to do my own logging

I don't know. I always assumed scoring was from sand and or dust and or mettalic pads. But I googled and read a few brake FAQs and they lightly touched on heat as being the culprit. However I have seen blue disks that were not scored and scored disks that were not blue. It is true that all disks get hot when braking, and not all get scored, but it is also obvious that how hot they get, varies. If your pistons are sticking, your pads and rotors will heat up more. I find it easy to believe that this will, at the very least, increase the risk of scoring, if not cause the scoring. Has the argument of the day "turned" from global warming to disk heating?

In my guesstimated opinion, drilling the muffler will not change the breathing much, but will increase the noise. Staintunes claim not to need fuelling adjustment, but I don't know how loud they are., but the noise can be made louder with the removal of a baffle. But Mistrals sound the best, in my not so humble opinion.

I think there was an allegation of other failures, but I don't think any of the forum members had it happen.

Good question and Good answer. I have always been concerned that metallic pads score rotors, but after a quick google, it is heat that causes scoring and NOT metallic pads. Which matches up with Ratchet's answer. There used to be alot of comments about rear brake noise when rolling the bike back or forward. I guess almost everyone has heeded the advice of a proper maintainance regime, as there has not much moaning about groaning In addition to atleast an annual fluid transplant, I also recommend the technique of frequently wrapping the brake lever shut and let sit over night. I also do the same with the rear lever, but it is trickier. I stick a crutch under the footpeg, over the brake lever, and wedge it against the bike. It is a bit of a balancing act. I suppose a 5KG barbell on a rope would be better. And it cannot be expressed often enough that the rear pad can wear very quickly, so it should be checked frequently. Also, always be sure to check and double check the routing of the rear brake line after rear tire changes, as some wrenches are negligent. And it cannot be reiterated enough that one should change your fluid frequently, like what Ratchet said. Oh, and setting a little freeplay at the rear lever, is debatably a good safety measure. (don't ask why it is debatably, just read this thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5071&hl= )

I think your conversion is wrong. You previously said that you were consuming 12 to 14 liters per 100 km, which would be about 18 miles per US gallon or 22 miles per imperial gallon.

Your comments are appreciated and good advice. I just see a pattern where the Alpha Harley, aka. the leader of the pack, gives the slow down sign. Perhaps to protect me from his double-yellow line crossing brothers. This guys overly concerned facial expression as he signed a slow down, followed by the smirks on his compadres was the give-away to the charade. Yes, you are correct, I should still heed future warnings, but this piece of work crying wolf is making it difficult. And yes it does Hurt to slow down But yes, I'll remember your advice and try to put this guy out of my mind. My other pet peeve is the California highway crews leave loose gravel signs up to the point where threatening loose gravel in only there about 1 in a hundred times. I have not seen this failure rate in any other state. Again a Cry Wolf situation...where it is hard to remember the hurt of crashing out weighs the hurt of slowing down.

apologies in advance, but I just want to vent. Today for about the fourth time in my life I got a slow down hand sign from an approaching Harley rider. The first three I paid attention to and slowed it down expecting a road hazard up ahead. This time I realized the boyz waz just crying wolf, continued on, and the road was clear as could be. I know this is just a tenth of a one percenter from their crowd. But this is all I have to say to him and to that author also:

Here is an interesting article suggesting that beginning January 1st, 96 octane got downgraded to 95 octane. http://www.scoop.co.nz/stories/BU0508/S00519.htm and more from BP http://www.bp.co.nz/about/Changes%20to%20N...fuel%20spec.htm In any case I think Kiwi Dave is right that you should be using higher than 91Octane

PS Is your bike stock or modified?

Mine pings too and I am not sure why. Timing is fixed, but the timing chain slackens with accumulated experience. But you only have 4000KM. I don't think it is Global Warming or Al Queda, although anything is possible. State of tune is key. Valves adjusted. Throttle bodies balanced. TPS set. Spark plugs gapped. That is about all you can do other than rebuilding the engine or remapping the fueling and timing. I mapped out my pinging, but now my fuel consumption is way up to 30MPG(US) from about 35MPG. There are many options for re-mapping. I am using TuneBoy. Maybe some other people have other ideas about reducing pinging. Has anyone tried pulling the fuel injectors out and cleaning them?????

That's really cool! I miss getting trashed at friends' homes and being convinced that their music was really cool... This is similar, but without the hangover and the smell of spilled skunk water on my clothes. I plugged in The Legendary Pink Dots, and the trip has been interesting, but now I am at Collective Soul...I don't follow the logic....fast forward...ah...back to the Dots....but now they are boring me...Now there is some band called Stars that sounds like Death Cab for Cutie, but lamer....and now 13 & goD sounds nice...this is sooooo cool! But, maybe I should plug in Miles Davis, Coltrane, Monk, and Dollar Brand Thanks Jason! PS really enjoyed the Black Angels. Lots of good hard to pin influences in their music. Thanks Hoytstaab!

That is true.

You have a healthier perspective. Congrats. I am happier trying to increase it's and my limits. Back to the off topic: Here is the bolt on It attaches to the six speed at two points, the porkchops and the muffler hanger. What a bodge! The one thing it has going for it is probably resiliency. The long bolt going through the gearbox, the bolt on lower frame section, and the articulation of the porkchop, must flex nicely, preventing transmission of damaging forces to the gear box case.

If you don't like it, don't read it. There is plenty of porn in 24/7 for you to satiate yourself with. There is a reason the early frames create a losser goose, and I don't think it is just the extra centimeter wheelbase and the slight change in steering angle.

Pierre, The "bolt on" piece goes under the tee of the spine and between the porkchops. I don't know what pieces are different on the five speed compared to the six speed, but I know the that where the muffler hangs is different. If you could find this "bolt on" piece, you would probably have to do substantial modifications to make it fit your Sporti. However if you install a six speed gear box, it would make sense to use the later "bolt on" piece. I am not sure about your Sporti, but I have ideas on how to make something bolt on that would make the rear end of the early six speeds more rigid. The right side should be a piece of cake, as you just need to make a bracket go from the porkchop to the tranny. The engineering concerns would be that the rear of the gearbox by the shaft is not strong enough. And the bolts there too, are only 6mm. The solution that I have in mind involves making a bracket that spreads the force out over all the bolts, and possibly runs to the engine to the bolt that the later six speeds attach to. I believe some flexibility should be engineered into the bracket, and it should not be so substantially stout that it would tranfer enough energy to crack the crankcase. On the left side of the bike, the starter kind of gets in the way. I imagine a bracket should attach to the two bolts that hold on the starter, and then another bracket should extend from that bracket, back to the pork chop, to where the shock resevoir is mounted. Again some flexibility should be engineered into the plan, but not as much as on the right side, because the starter mount is pretty robust. Whoever designed the Spine had some excellent ideas, but I believe was incomplete in the excecution. Unlike the Tonti frames that had little room for improvement. I don't know the spine on the five speeds may be better, but the six speed was a bodge job....that works well enough for most people. I believe the GhezziBrian frames are also better thought out, but I have not looked that closely at them.