dlaing

But they sure do spend alot of time thumbing their noses at the Tennistas. Snobs I tell yah! Especially that Big Frea¢king Goofy one...adorable as he may be. Call me snobbish but I think a few on the forum need to bathe more.

I bought my true love a pair of stainless steel bung plugs

The e.c.u.-afficcianados welcome all with enough huevos to endure the rolled eyes and belittling remarks. It is the outer world that ostracizes us, not the other way around. THe MonTy PyTHon-a-files are the cliquiest snobs, right after the Gold Members, the quiz point barons, the Tennistas and the Scuristas.

I think the test only works with electric Koolaid® not digital drool

I thought TX was talking about not making a mess when enjoying the lingerie ads

Nothing wrong with just riding it stock and never improving it. Biggest smiles I've had were: day one on the bike day two day three etc. But also, there were many days where I smiled because the bike was better than the day before. The day I put the PCIII on. The day I got the PCIII dyno tuned The day I put the Ohlins forks on The day I put the Quat-D on The day I put the FBF lidless airbox kit in The day I put the Hyperco spring on The day Ratchet hack helped me dial in the Hyperco spring The day it did not ping on 89 octane after a few modifications to the ECU. The day I put in the bearing spacer that JRT arranged to be made The weeks that followed with the GEI relay not failing. Everyday I contributed to or observed a discussion here that helped someone to enjoy their ride more.

topics replicate like deja vu all over again on this forum. Especially Oil, Filters, starting problems, and suspension. The TFI has barely been covered. I suspect it made his map worse because the Creedon chip is so rich that you can run on 87octane(claimed by Will) Since all the TFI can do is enrichen, it isn't likely to help. Clearly its purpose is to inexpensively aid emmission requirement lean machines, especially after muffler and intake mods. I wonder how this compares to ultimap. Does FIM Ultimap work at the map cell level or in broad sweeping brushes, more similar to the TFI? Sorry, if this has been covered already.

Sorry, I don't think I am making myself clear. 1) adding pre-load will help your rear shock spring, but not nearly as much as replacing the rear spring. 2)http://www.hrpworld.com and get the Hypercoil 2.25 inch by six inch spring. 475# may be about the right weight. Probably 450# would be better for touring and 500# for racing. Any other opinions? What is your riding style? Do you have a large girlfriend on the back? 3)preload does not change softness of firmness. It just increases the amount of force required for you to bottom out. It also changes your bike's geometry as the ride height changes. I subscribe to the theory that if the sag numbers are in the range of OK and you are not bottoming out, your spring rate is firm enough. Others like bikes so firm they never get to within and inch of bottoming. 4)Ratchethack or JRT can tell you where to get the Wilbers fork springs. I guess Todd at Guzzitech.com sells them, but if you are in Barcelona, you could save on shipping buying from Europe. Otherwise I'd recommend a Traxxion 0.95 to 1.00KG/mm spring. If you are an agressive rider, the Traxxion springs are probably a better choice because they are linear. The Wilbers are progressive, so they should be more comfortable.

Are you trying to get NuevoTotem to buy you a ticket to Barcelona? Good Luck! The one thing I'll agree is that if he uses your front setup, he'll be better off. But if I were him, I would double check the sag numbers, if he still gets the same readings, I think it is essential that he change the rear spring. He should probably try a 475# rear shock spring and in the front forks put 5W or equivalent, and add 10 to 20mm preload. It is only about 50 Euros plus shipping for a hypercoil rear shock spring., the same springs that Penske uses. The most difficult thing is getting the old spring off the shock body. Fork spring preload is increased usually using abs or pvc plastic piping cut to the right size. These modifications will give him a much better bike, agreed? And it would be the greatest improvement for dollar spent. Likewise for less than a hundred euros more, he could use the Wilbers fork springs or, follow Ratchethack's instructions and get it even better, agreed. Alternately, he could get a straight rate fork spring set. I think the consensus is about a .95Kg/mm pair of springs is about right for his weight. Does anyone disagree? I think this would be a waste of money as his front spring weight may be fine, and he just needs 15mm more preload in the forks....but we disagree on this, if his measurements are correct. It is interesting that his measurements change when he adjusts the damping. Here are Traxxions instructions for measuring front fork sag: Still he would be best off going completely to Ohlins But that is an expensive option. Other options are that he send the forks to somebody like traxxion, LE, computrack, or racetech and have them revalve and respring it. And there are many rear shocks to choose from.

The FBF kit is fine, and probably the least criticized of all solutions. If you want your bike to last the longest stay with the stock filter and airbox. The FBF kit has the BMC filter. It apparently filters better than the K&N, so you should not be too worried about dirt getting in. The open airbox probably makes the filter get dirtier twice as fast, and it will not perform as well in heavy rain. But it gives the bike more power, and alot more sound(noise, music, you call it what you want) If you go with Pods, there are a couple things I don't like. one is what to do with the oil breathing hose? The other is what to do with the air sensor? But the pods look the coolest and allow for more space under the tank.

Here is the data. Without rider: Rear: 25mm Front: 37mm With rider: Rear: 58mm Front: 47mm This is our theoretical Target: Front & Rear - laden 36 mm, unladen 20 mm Please note, the target is not set in stone and is subject to personal preference. More on that, after Ratchet and I hash this out.... If you increase the spring weight the difference between unladen and laden will decrease. If you decrease the spring weight the difference between unladen and laden will increase. The theoretical target's laden and unladen numbers have a difference of 16mm, so that should be the difference of the ideal spring, theoretically regardless of preload. His rear has a difference of 33mm....so his shock spring is about 200% too soft, theoretically. His front has a difference of 10mm....so his fork springs are about 50% too firm....theoretically. So, what is the the difference between theory and reality? I am making the assumption that the spring rates are absolutely linear, when in fact they are not, but they are close enough. I am also not taking into consideration the effect of the change in the arc in the rear suspension, but it is negligible. And then there is the air spring effect in the front forks. It is possible that if he increased preload, the sag would be measured with a larger, softer air spring and the difference between unladen and laden would increase, but I don't think it would increase much....but I could be wrong. I still think it is more likely that his forks are different than yours or he is measuring incorrectly. John aka Ratchethack, Chris B, and Dave A., What were your front sag numbers before and after the spring conversion? I'll bet you all had more than a difference of 10mm between unladen and laden. I know I did. Mine was closer to around 20-25mm difference, but I am alot heavier.

Ratchet, I don't think you are reading the data correctly. You recommended "Front & Rear - laden 36 mm, unladen 20 mm" I set that as his target. I simply plugged in the numbers to get him to the laden 36mm. The theoretical result is that his unladen would then be about 3mm rear and about 26mm front. The rear number indicates his shock spring is too soft. The front number indicates his fork springs are too hard....or more likely that his measurements are off. Sorry, if I was unclear. Does it make sense now. The only thing I said about Ohlins was "I will add that the Ohlins measurements are larger than what Traxxion, Computrack, LE, or RaceTech would recommend." Other than that I was copying and pasting his sag numbers that included the Ohlins recommendations. Maybe I should have edited that out, or quoted it.

It is what bikes without TuneBoy do! From wikipedia: PNG (Portable Network Graphics) is a lossless bitmap image format. PNG was created to both improve upon and replace the GIF format with an image file format that does not require a patent license to use. PNG is officially pronounced as "ping" (/pɪŋ/ in IPA), but it is often just spelled out — possibly to avoid confusion with the internet tool ping. PNG is supported by the libpng reference library, a platform-independent library that contains C functions for handling PNG images. PNG files nearly always use the file extension PNG or png and are assigned the MIME media type image/png

But it might not need to. I am only guessing, but it is probably looking at the frequency and duration of fuel injection pulses. Determining the RPM from that information is trivial. Determining the Throttle Position would be nearly impossible, but perhaps unecessary. It can assume that longer injector pulse durations indicate a greater throttle opening. This is not true all of the time, but most of the time. Where it is not true, I think the accelleration pump effect would not have to activate if the RPM was not increasing. So, the Yellow pot is good shit and safe to smoke. The Red pot is a no brainer, simply based on RPMs..no problem. Same for the Blue pot. The Green Pot may be the trickiest to determine, but if the engineer knows the approximate durations that correspond with light throttle load, it would be a piece of cake to make it work right. Otherwise the engineer would have to do some fuzzy logic to determine what is a heavy load and what is a light load. So, if you install the unit, ride around for a month without ever going past half throttle, fuzzy logic may not be useful when you eventually hit higher throttle positions. But once it does, it should adjust and everything should be fine, although you might have to go back and tweak the settings. All in all, the PCIII can do everything this can, and more. Plugging in a PCIII is easier. Tweaking the PCIII map is not brain surgery. The only advantages of the TFI are that the pots may be more intuitive than a map for some people and the price is quite a bit lower. Which is what some people want.

Yes BFG, you must be high on something if you would giver her up. Is it acid? I don't know.

If I were to get a new bike again, I would go with the aggressive break-in method. I did the slow babying it method, and possibly as a result, I consume about a liter every 3000 miles.

BFG, will you please stop it with the PNGs! My older computers can't handle them

What you've got: Without rider: Rear: 25mm (R1-R2) (Ohlins recommends 10 to 20mm)* Front: 37mm (F1-F2) (Ohlins recommends 15 to 30mm)* With rider: Rear: 58mm (R1-R3) (Ohlins recommends 25 to 40mm)* Front: 47mm (F1-F3) (Ohlins recommends 35 to 50mm)* Target: Front & Rear - laden 36 mm, unladen 20 mm Regarding the Rear: if you add enough preload to decrease rear with rider to 36mm that would give you about 3mm without rider. This would improve things, but you would be much better off with a stiffer shock spring....maybe a 475# spring would be about right for your weight. Ratchet is closer to your weight, so he may have a better clue. I have a 475# spring and it is still just a little light for my 210#+++ It is fine if I sit all the way forward, but if I slide to the back of my Corbin seat, it is too light for bumpy roads. Regarding the Front: If you add enough preload to decrease front with rider to 36mm, that would give you about 26mm without rider. Assuming your measurement is correct, you do NOT need a heavier spring in the front. I suspect either you forks are different than Ratchet's or you are measuring incorrectly. (my measurements were off until Ratchet came over and helped!)

Everyone has different preferences, but you would probably want about a 500 to 600#/inch shock spring and 1.00 to 1.10 Kg/mm fork springs. You may even be in the right ballpark to try a HyperPro progressive spring on the rear shock.

RacerX' article was very helpful to me. The only part I would disagree with is that I prefer the compression damping backed all the way off....but that only works if the bike is not heavilly under-sprung, which almost everyone will find. If you weigh more than 150#s you will probably need at the least, to increase spring pre-load front and rear. If you weigh more than 170#s you will probably want stiffer springs, front and rear. Getting sag numbers set correctly is key. We can help you on the forums (start with a search on sag) or you can see your dealer. Would this bike happen to be the one from MPH with traxxion or racetech modified forks?

Absolutely! I suppose my comment was aimed at you and Todd, following Ratchethack's comment that he was concerned he might have to agree with his tuner. I suppose I subscribe to the philosophy of never agreeing with anyone completely, therefore I can only trust you and Todd through faith, because my logic, or lack there of, disagrees with both of you on some points. The points I disagree with you are on the importance of tuning at different weather conditions, so my map doesn't ping Just kidding. I know that any quality map that you would do would result in a ping free mixture at just about all weather conditions. But I don't think you could maximize power to 1hp and retest to the same optimal power at a temperature 50º hotter or colder. This is not your fault, other than not having a 5 million dollar climate controlled dyno booth/wind tunnel. So, I believe there are some advantages to road tuning over dyno tuning. Am I going to be able to optimize to 1HP, No I am not. 2HP, No......but I may get lucky in a few places, and the bike will run better and better, the more I tweek it. It is more for kicks than for having an excellently mapped bike, and maybe after 10 years of tuning, it will be optimized to 2HP and all weather conditions. I guess that does require a bit of faith. The other advantage of the do it yourself road test method is adaptabilty to modifications. And so I don't get too far off track, I should set up and an appointment with you within the next couple years, for just an hour or two on the dyno. I see your $100 per hour rate is very reasonable, and I would not have to spend many hundreds of dollars. I just hope I don't already owe you.

I am still not one hundred percent sure. My Ducati regulator when working would put out something like 14.3-14.5V, and then it started to malfunction and put out a wildly fluctuating 12.xVolts after the engine had warmed. A cold engine put out a full charge, so everytime I checked for a while I was getting a good reading, so I suspected my battery. I got a battery charger, and the battery proved to be fine. Then I finally checked the voltage with the engine hot, and discovered it not, or barely charging. So, I ordered the ESR. With the ESR I was only getting a maximum output of about 13.5 Volts. I had installed it without further troubleshooting, so although it was only putting out 13.5V, atleast it was charging, even when hot. So, the symptoms changed. I was not happy withthe 13.5V so I trouble shooted a little further and determined that I was getting 13.9 volts coming out of the regulator, but the Red/Green line was creating a drop in voltage, that I narrowed down to somewhere between the fuse and the regulator. An ohmmeter showed 0.2ohms. The wiring diagram showed no connectors along the way. So, I just ran a line of 12 Gauge, and an inline 30A fuse, from the regulator to the battery, tested, and got 13.9V from about 2000 to about 4000 RPMs. It drops a bit after 4000RPM to about 13.5 or so... I'll probably contact their tech support to see if that is normal. But now at 1100 RPM I am getting about 13V, so I have fewer worries while idling at red lights. I want to get the engine hot a few times and make sure that the alternator was not the problem. My guess is that something happened to the Red/Green line, the fuse did not blow, but looked like the plastic had melted just a little, and because of the increased resistance, the regulator had to push harder to charge through the bad line and eventually gave up. PS, I'll try to take a picture of the regulator. It looks pretty unnoticeable.

Yah, what Ratchet said.... I will add that the Ohlins measurements are larger than what Traxxion, Computrack, LE, or RaceTech would recommend. And I would start by backing off the compression damping and cranking up the rear pre-load untill you get a sag reading about 25mm. Then let us know your laden and unladen sag measurements. You are probably going to need to lengthen your fork spacer about 10-15mm. But let us know all your sag measurements before you dig into the fork. If the numbers are out of an acceptible range, you will want new springs. But without doubt, just changing your preload will make a huge difference.

Ah Hah, see you edited that. trust but verify is your moto, John! Sorry to force you to live by it. You might want to go back and edit your edit. I checked my box and it said 164/01 not F45740, so I lied!, sorry. F45740 WAS the FBF part number for just the filter in the 2002 catalog. The current FBF number is F33705 $49.95US The airbox kit with filter is F45700 $79.95 The airbox kit, without filter(for those who already have a BMC or want paper or K&N) F45701 $32.95 The number also appears at Guzzitech.com, which may be where I got the number from. Anyway if one needs the dimensions, the BMC is listed at 134 x 224mm

But I guess if the truck is half full of fulls and half empty, you probably forgot to fill it half full with empties. And whether you started delivering beer half empty or half full, you'd be belly-full of beer, but your next pay check would be full empty. PS I like your perspective on drinking and filling! PPS ever notice what a wonderful life it is on your Guzzi when the tank is half empty?