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dlaing

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Everything posted by dlaing

  1. The first thing is to double check that you are properly tuned, with proper TPS as specified by the chip maker, and valves are properly set, and throttle bodies balanced. If that does not work, look at other options. Cliff's MY16M would have the most potential. Many people are happy with Will Creedon's chip. try creedon @ cts.com PCIIIs could easily help if you are near an authorized dynojet tuninglink dyno. Rapid bike says it is for the Centauro, so it may or maynot work DirectLink is not for the 1.6 ECU. The softare at MPH is free. Does anyone know how to flash chips???????? That would be the route I would look to first. I tried the program with a tuneboy map file and it could read the files, but it put everything out of order. That should not be a problem with your ECU. If you can flash your own chips, you could save money for a wideband controller and a CO meter....or a dyno session from a good operator.
  2. dlaing

    V11 on ebay

    I think I Love Lucy was the last funny show that kept within good value boundaries. Although some shows like the Crosby show were't too bad, but they weren't as funny, either. Of course I am sucker for the bad stuff too. Wish I had cable TV
  3. dlaing

    V11 on ebay

    I wonder when it all started...
  4. It was not me. Mine is silver and I was in Long Beach at the motorcycle show. But I did see some beautiful women on V11 Cafe Sport. I asked her if she ever visited v11lemans.com, but sadly she has never heard of it, and has no interest....maybe if her husband was not there... I guess she was not my soul mate. But she had good taste in bikes
  5. Rust Never Sleeps Around a wheel arch. But I think you should find some BIG hotty to take your mind off your wife
  6. Here is a webpage for reading plugs: http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html But you could be both too rich and too lean...or the timing could be off, or the general tuning... Here is a photo of a nice plug: A white plug indicates too hot. Usually because of being too lean, but timing and throttle balance are also key. Also, I noticed MPH has posted some groovy chip editing application, ECU Map Editor, for your bike(not for 15M): http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/TECHNICAL.htm Does anyone know how to use this? I assume you need some special serial cable, or you have to pull the chip and put it in some mysterious box and connect it to the computer.
  7. dlaing

    Fine italian

    No wonder the photo is out of focus
  8. Not that it would prove the bike is abnormal or dangerous, but try putting the level on the forks and or the vertical side of the tires. My bike pulls to the right, not the left as yours does, and I am thinking it is the steering damper gently counter steering. A couple possibilities for your scenario are that the person who put the air in the tires, also mounted the wheels It is possible that the wheels are, or a wheel is, or the swing arm is adjusted or shimmed to far to the right. If the tires were heavily worn on one side, I guess you would have noticed.... It is a Guzzi, and because of the engine layout, it does things differently. You will find that if you are falling over to the left at a stoplight, a quick jap of the throttle will right you. This force is also happening when you are riding, so the bike never feels quite as centered like most chain and belt driven bikes. But don't second guess safety. Let Moto International inspect it.
  9. My father used to brew, and until he followed the above tip, his homebrews tasted like medicine. And just to clarify, Steve means, substituting the white sugar with, not for, malt extract. malt extract is good, and white sugar bad. right?
  10. Brrrrrr, I did not know OK got down to - 27ºF, that is a minus sign, right Now looking at the chart, you would be suckkin' fuel something fast according to the map: ...and yah, I'll put MY ECU back in the mail....It may take me a while as things are hectic...I am sure you are in no hurry. PS You don't wanna turn into a Popsicle® so, don't for get to tip the Heating Oil delivery guy, and of course pay the bill. Maybe you should insulate the garage PPS Took the bike to Long Beach Bike Show today, and saw RacerX, GH67, WSholar, TTJim, Jedione, and his son, a crazy rugrat who jumped up and bounced off half the bikes in the show....craZy! The show was fun, too....Now I just have to figure out how to morph together the fine characteristics of the Breva and the Griso into my sport....will probably not, but sitting on the Griso felt like sitting on a bull ready to leave the gate, and the engine wasn't even running, while the Breva embodied every ergonomic improvement I could want....sweet....but 200#+ riders will want stiffer springs. And, 150#- riders on the Griso may want softer springs.... Sorry, I digressed....back to the topic, so, I loaded, my base map plus Tom H.'s map (from: http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Maps.html ) It worked pretty well, but felt a little rich in many places, and I still need to tune out the pinging. Also, I tried moving the PCIII USB .djm map to a spread sheet program(Open Office, but Excel is fine, too.) by copying and pasting....should be piece of cake to put it into the PCIII serial .map map....but have not tried that yet. Slowpoke, Good to hear from you, again. I think we can tune out some of the herky/jerkys. There is no reason that you cannot make it run as smooth as a carby, but MO' Bettah! Todd smooths out many of the PCIII maps by adding 15 to 0%throttle at various RPMs and a few other numbers, you can look at some of the maps, like the Tom H. map, that have these numbers....just look for the collumns of 15s, 10s, and 5's at zero to light throttle, above something like two or three thousand RPMs...not all dynotuners know Guzzis and tuning like Todd does, so they don't know this simple trick to make it run more smoothly. Your map may already have it, but if not, give it a try. I'll come over and give you moral support! Or you can hang out at my garage, and we'll plug you into the computer. I could also demonstrate the TuneEdit, but I need more practice with it before I offer to put it in your bike and change things. And of course there is no substitute for dyno tuning. Also, I have TwinMax balancer that I can bring along! (and maybe that is all it needs...)
  11. I love how Ben Affleck tries to stay incognito on our forum disguised as Beer delivery guy. Couldn't you have picked a more discreet MO, like say an engineer, or do you use that MO on BMW forums ...or maybe you are really Nicolas Cage
  12. Your bike is one that I would HIGHLY recommend for a PCIII USB and two cylinder mapping. The Tuneboy may be able to do two cylinder mapping, but it would be more tedious process. My experience with the Quat-D is that the nature of the two into one is very different than what the stock ECU is mapped for. You can always trade me your Quat-D for my Mistrals Glad to see you are still around. I don't think I can make the Bill Ross Toy Ride this weekend, but you might want to attend. Todd will be there, and you could probably talk to him about getting it working right. And if Jedione is there, he can throw in his two cents!
  13. Here is what I wrote previously about the Hawker Charging: I am not sure what the correct way to charge a Hawker is. Hawker used to recommend Deltran, maker of Battery Tender, but then Deltran and Hawker stopped recommending each other. Deltran said something about the Hawker battery not being suitable for power sports(motorcycles) because the required charging voltage is too high. Hawker said the Deltran don't meet their specs anymore. You can see a thread with quotes from both companies, here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4993&hl= In any case the Hawker should not receive more than 15 Volts durring charging. Most automotive chargers will exceed the 15Volts. I know my 2Amp/6Amp automotive charger will exceed 15 V even when set to 2 Amps. I suspect you would be OK if you sit their watching a Volt meter as it charges, but once it hits 15V you may only be partially charged. But it seems to me that what would kill the battery is the Watts, not the Volts. Hawker recommends the following chargers: TecMate AccuMate Pro 12V-7A-S Motion Pro Inc. 650-594-9600 Xenotronix SX 90-1 12V, 6A Xenotronix 800-624-9366 Motocell™ 693601 12V, 3A Custom Chrome 800-729-3332 Battery Defender ACC-1206WB 12V, 3A BatteryMart.com 800-405-2121 I recommend the top two, as 3A may not be enough to restore a depleted battery. Price is about $100 The Xenotronix comes with a quick connect cord that you leave attached to the battery...very convenient!
  14. The Accumate and Odyssey Optimiser appear to be the best two for Hawker Batteries. There are some other chargers that they recommend, but lower amperage, not good for bringing to full charge once down.
  15. No, I suspect the load is a little heavy even for the GEI relay. The Bosch relay could not handle it even with momentary flashes. I expect with my abuse the GEI would eventually fail. You are correct that about the increase in current. Maybe I should stop before my goose is cooked Atleast no switches are in the path of the high current. and it may be time to do that headlight relay conversion to take a load off the already heated and abused wires. Sorry, Extreme GEI test over! Thanks Carl!
  16. Okay, apparently there is only a one way conversion...from .map to .djm, but not from .djm to .map, but here is the work-around: I have got to try it. I am not sure if it will work because the cells don't line up exactly. But you should be able to verify the success of the above steps by importing the .map file to the PCIII USB software and convert it back to a .djm file. Or worse case scenario, analyze it cell by cell and move the numbers over that way, but then verify, just in case the .djm algorithm is different than the .map.
  17. Play nice Luhbo! Everyone knows that PCIII is reliable. On a more serious note, Wayne's latest release fixes the PCIII importing, for all but the .djm files. I also tried a .djm file on my serial PCIII and that did not work. I'll investigate and see if the latest PCIII software can open and convert it for use with the serial PCIII.
  18. You just like the Odyssey because it is Orange! But you might want to get one of these Odyssey Optimisers from here http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ACC-SX90-1 or from where I got it: http://www.portablepower.com/items/batteri.../CH301/34S201S2 FWIW I put the order in at about 1am and it was on the fedex truck by 4pm But I hope my one year old Hawker not starting my bike one day does not mean it is giving up already. But on a cheerier note: I second the fact that Pyro Dan is the Man! My GEI has far outlasted its predecessors (about two years now) and I have tried to break it by driving at night with the low beam on and holding on the highbeam flasher.
  19. A year! That's nothin'! Try two years on the same GEI starter relay. Not bad considering how many Bosch I went through...
  20. After looking at the diagram, my money would be on the twelve way connector that I believe is located under the tank.
  21. I got a response from Zeitronix: Now I just have to figure out how mount my Pentium II tower and 17INCH CRT to the bike. The keyboard will almost fit in the tanbag. But realistically, maybe that PCIII Palm adapter that I bought will come in handy finally! Now, to find a cheap PALM or laptop that will fit in the tank bag and use a 12VDC power adapter. Or go to a different model. From what I can determine the models are pretty comparable values. I still really like the PLX R series, but their display probably is not readable while riding. The Zeitronix still looks like a good deal, because for $279 plus $79 for palm software, plus $100 for a Palm, You would have an awesome setup with room for future expandability. I earlier wrote off Wide Band Commander because the price and value did not match, but searching eBay, they are availble for less than $400 US But even at that price, the WEGO II at $425 has better logging. Innovate and TechEdge are both solid companies. But, I think TechEdge gives more for the money. The NGK Powerdex AFX at $299 would be my choice for a unit with no logging, although you could send the 0-5v signal to some sort of logging device, but that is too technical for me. The FJO is awesome, and if I was a professional, that would probably be my choice, but the price is too much for me. Here is recap of the models with a focus on connectivity to the computer, and software: PLX R-300 Windows USB2 $450+ bung Wide Band Commander Windows USB ~$400 on ebay WEGO II Windows Serial $425 Innovate Windows Serial FJO Windows PDA(but not sure if you can log to PDA) Serial -no onboard logging Zeitronix PC Palm(PC software is included but Palm Software is $79US, but logs data) -no onboard logging $279 plus Palm Tech Edge OpenSource? DOS Windows Palm I am not sure of pricing as these seem to be shareware. Serial Powerdex AFX No Logging $299
  22. My ability to misspell is part of my ploy
  23. Lard, like cream, rises to the top. Darwinian theory actually explains it. It is not about the survival of the individual, but the survival of the species. Them Harley folk are gonna outlast us Guzzi folk because their wreckless life style actually leads to a proliferation of the species....
  24. This link may be of interest to you. http://www.t595.net/messageboard/thread.asp?thread=26202 Some guy (Magnus Lirell from Uppsala Län, Sweden) wrote a program to convert WBO2 logs to TuneBoy trim maps for the Triumph TuneEdit. Perhaps it could work on the Guzzi
  25. I think that may be one reason why fuel injected bikes get worse fuel mileage and make better power. I am planning on a pretty drastic timing remap. The tiMap may be a good start, but it is known that PCIIIs do benefit the Ti kit, so it won't be perfect.
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