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dlaing

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Everything posted by dlaing

  1. One change did occur in 2002 that might effect the number. Some bikes got a catalytic convertor. I really don't know what the right number is at idle, and I don't think it is nearly as critical as the 150mV with linkage detached. YMMV
  2. Actually, he found a steeper hill, but it was not paved...
  3. Dang! I did not know the Direct Link cost so much in Europe! And I did not know all the details on the Ultimap. Tuneboy is available here, it is inexpensive, but barely out of Beta testing. Still the important features work great! I think once you map out the pinging the higher compression will really pay off. Keep us posted, even if we have to wait till Spring!
  4. I can't believe I never took my bike on Lombard St. It is not the steepest street in the world, but one of the more interesting.
  5. Did the bike ping more after you raised the compression ratio? Do you do a lot of riding above 1000meters altitude? And if so, does the pinging go away? I don't think the ultimap for Guzzi offers timing adjustment(I could be wrong) Perhaps you would have been better off with Techno Research's Direct Link or TuneBoy's TuneEdit
  6. dlaing

    ECU

    Better yet, I found the site! http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/LSU4.htm not www.megasquirt2.com (porn)
  7. dlaing

    ECU

    EDIT I deleted this post, because it is in it entirety here: http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/LSU4.htm or if lost check go here and look for article on LSU4: http://www.megasquirt.info/
  8. Carl Allison triggered me to put her in as the avatar because I said three words that happen to be the name of one of her songs....can't remember what it was at this moment.... Anyway the avatar shrunk her fatter, so she actually looked pretty good. But last night I fell for Fiona in the movie EuroTrip! Hillarious movie for the immature at heart!!! So, she should be in my avatar, but she disappeared....I'll see what I can do to remedy the situation
  9. fwiw Staintune uses 304 grade stainless steel So, I guess it is not that...
  10. I think you meant that the ECU cannot resolve it, not the TPS. Thanks again, for that Guzzitech article. Great info. For what it is worth, I still think the accuracy of TPS setting and whether one goes by idle or butterfly closed is debateable. I still don't know what Ratchethack is talking about regarding indexing, but since he is getting nauseated, I'll just ignore his previous posts until he pops some dramamine and gets back to the pursuit of veritas ad nauseum. I also don't think one should drop from the discussion due to ignorance. In fact, it is more important to stay in the discussion for that reason. Few of us are 'experts' here, and the professionals amongst us don't agree on many issues regarding the ECU. None the less, I have learned sooooo much from EVERYBODY'S posts on ECUs THANX.
  11. My guess is that the years are actually misleading and that the change occurs when Guzzi put in the balance tube and higher compression pistons....but only a guess.
  12. That picture always made me want to make my bike look more like the V7Sport. Spoked Wheel and lower frame could look very nice on a V11 And, I have always wondered about that picture. Is it a green bike that was color corrected to look yellow?
  13. dlaing

    ECU

    Please try to bore us! I am especially interested in the 3-4 degree opening rich readings. I actually enriched my bike around that throttle opening from 2000 rpm up. It helped cure some decelleration popping
  14. Very nice! But we need more V11 Brochures!!!! If I had a scanner I'd help you with atleast on brochure.... I wish that I had collected brochures for every year of V11sixspeed.
  15. I think I know why Ernst upped the Compression Ratio. hint: "Vorarlberg: Motorcycling in Austria’s West Thanks to its diverse landscape, Vorarlberg is a true paradise for motorcyclists. One of the most popular roads is the Silvretta Hochalpenstraße from Partenen at the very end of the Montafon valley to Bielerhöhe pass at 2032m. The 23km road, which boasts a total of 32 sharp bends..." For flatlanders bumping the compression may be asking for trouble or access to racing fuel. But for people who do most of their motorcycling above 1000meters, it is almost a neccessity. EDIT but I guess he has some pinging....so maybe it he is not always at a high altitude....pinging will be fixed with Ultimap.
  16. Did you get that mandatory reading taken care of? I put two hours into the pool of endless chores... but now it is Breaktime
  17. I just re-found this tidbit from Jeff B. on GuzziTechDotCom I am not sure if that gives a clue on the importance of setting it accurately, but to my mind it implies that in the stock ECU a jump from 1.00%throttle to 1.99 % throttle to go from the first map cell is going to require an increase of voltage of 49.725mV (assuming 1% change is 2.55 19.5mV increments, 2.55 x 19.5 = 49.725) And going from 60.73 to 84.56 is a change of 23.83 which if you multiply it 23.83 x 2.55 x 19.5 = 1184.947 which would be much less critical if your TPS is a little off. But actually I would not be exacty correct as according to Jeff's article the TPS has two different slopes. I do find it odd that the first ten map position are all under 17%throttle, according to TuneEdit. But the variations there are also pretty subtle.
  18. dlaing

    ECU

    Cool info! That peak of leaness between 5000 and 6000 rpm is where my bike pings.(and I don't give WOT at 3000RPM enough to know if it pings there) Ernst, is your bike all stock mufflers, intake, etc.?
  19. Yah, that would be a bad idea, and I suspect the very few negative experiences with PCIII may be caused by just that. I wish every downloadable map gave the exact state of tune at the time of the mapping. But as Ratchet says, 30mV difference is not much. considering that the TPS goes from about 500mV to 5000mV from 0 to 100% throttle, 30mV is somewhere between 1% and 10% of a mapping grid,(~3% if the grids are in 10% increments) hardly worth worrying about. Worst case scenario on the PCIII might be the grid jump from 0% to 2% throttle where 30mV would represent 15% of the grid....still not that bad as the mixture change there might not be so critical. The jump from 80%to 100% throttle would be pretty negligible. But on a PCIII USB their are more grids, again, not a problem if you don't have a big jump between grids. But if we look at the Tune Edit map, which I believe is the actual ECU map, the TPS grids break into what you see here: which is very different and you can see that IF there was a significant map change from say 1.0 to 1.99, the mV reading becomes more critical....but only if there is significant changes between grids. The biggest jump I found (at casual glance) in the OEM ECU was at 4500 rpm it jumped from 116 at 27.99 throttle to 156 at 36.73. This is about a 34% change. So if your TPS is off by 30mV, a little over 3% of your grid would be getting 34% too much or too little fuel injector open time. Not necessarilly a problem but not ideal. If your TPS is off by 100mV, it may be a problem as all of a sudden about 10% of your grid is grossly wrong. I suspect this would be pretty noticeable. FWIW I am dubious of the need to stay with grid jumps like that, especially since I have Mistrals and an open box. So, I plan on smoothing out my map so it works more like a phreaking carburetor!
  20. I think some consider proper to be 1/2 turn out. I am guessing next tune-up you might try 1/2 turn out, up the idle a little, but stay below 1200rpm, balance with bypas screws as last resort and average them out to 1/2 turn, set the TPS to 500mV, and re-zero the PCIII....That should make the de-linked TPS reading get closer to 150mV, and I would guess your map might overlay better.(Yah, I am splitting hairs on how much better) But talk with Todd first When you zero your map, also make sure that WOT reads 100%.
  21. Anyone with more than a thousand posts really needs to get out and ride more
  22. I agree, your method is fine for what you are doing. I am sure Todd also zero'd your PCIII map, so you should be fine. But the map he loaded will interlay best with your bike if you are tuned exactly as was the bike that that map was created on. Perhaps that is splitting hairs relatively. Luhbo and I are on a different track with TuneEdit. I had Todd measure my TPS at idle once, with wire piercing probes, and we got a reading of 260mV at idle...months later I got around to soldering in some test wires and my reading now is 165mV disconnected and something around 500(I forget) at idle. I don't know if we mis-probed or it shifted, but some of it was because my bypass screws were too far out (from trying to get a smooth TB balance from idle on up) I suspect if your reading today was correct, something is a little off, like your valves are too loose, or your bypass screws are too open. But knowing you, that is probably not the case, in which case I have no answer...maybe you did not back out the right side set screw all the way
  23. Nobody is splitting hairs. I think we are all agreeing and yes I should be out riding and seeing if I can get 40MPG!!! But I am at the keyboard ignoring house chores...and breakfast
  24. in my greater than humble opinon, the 150mV with butterfly valve completely closed and linkage detached, is important because it acts as a baseline for everything else. If you start messing with the TPS at idle with linkage attached, pursuing 500-525mV, possibly you will make the bike run better, and possibly worse, but if you head away from the 150mV baseline number, you will be heading away from what the factory intended. If you plan on spending money for a dyno tuning session, you should get your bike tuned directly to a spec that you can reset to. Reseting to the TPS at idle is vague and will make it more difficult to repeat obtaining the benefits of the map that you paid hundreds of dollars for. If want to get serious and fully benefit from re-mapping, set TPS with linkage detatched, going just by the idle TPS setting is lazy and wreckless. Using the 150mV setting is ideal, but of course not critical as your map is going to change anyway. At the very least, you should note your TPS setting with linkage detached before you get it dyno tuned, so that your map will be useful after future tune-ups. Other tune-up specs are also critical, like valve clearance, throttle body balance, bypass screws, and maybe even the TPS setting at idle. If you are not going to remap, then a common trick is to enrichen the mixture by setting the TPS to a number higher than 150mV If you are going to use one of Todd's downloaded maps, then do what he says.
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