dlaing

6. Put an Angel on your pilon

I thought they were cigarette butts (from butt holes ) Turns out they are made from UKs finest mad pig sausages. My stomach was turning over the possibility that that was toad parts,

Why did he use PERFORATED sheet metal? Air flow???? PS, I still say it is plasticene.

I'll have to remember that! 1. don't go to fast 2. don't do anything stupid 3. when sh^t happens, and it will, do the right thing 4. I think the most important thing about not crashing is will power...a no fear attitude helps. 5. I suppose $1000 mufflers, $500 clip-ons and gold plated valve covers (Bling!) with no crash guards, wearing only flip-flops, speedo, and wife-beater shirt, could be a good incentive not to crash

OOOOOOooooooo! that could look real nice!!!!!

There are interesting discussions of "crash bars" turning low sides into high sides. Those mushroom rollers are probably the best idea...just a little to "trick" for my taste, but if I was going to do a track day, to hell with vanity. I was thinkin' some skateboard bearings bolted under the Joe K.'s could resist abrasion, if they could take the impact...add skateboard wheels and you have impact resistance. Perhaps an inline skate wheel cut down to a small diameter??? There is no perfect solution for everybody.

Nah! It is Gumby's and Pokey's plasticene friend "Jojo"

wrap your tenni-cle around this: http://petermarina.com/normal/pmheads.gif

Almost every photo you post smacks of PORN!(EDIT, I mean ART) VERY NICE PHOTO!

I am an ass! Sorry Massimo Laverda... The caption reads: New "Team Laverda Corse Italia". Massimo Borghesi, Augusto Brettoni, Giuliano Cogo, Piero Laverda and son Giovanni at Monthléry 2001, with a 1975 1000 endurance. But he is on the left in this picture Laverda management 1977: Left to right: Massimo Laverda, eng. S. Todechini, L. Zuccarelli (commerc. Dir.), Piero Laverda, M. Tagliolato, L. Zen (Techn. Dir.)

If it does fall into the 14 in a million category, as mine did, they may be able to repair free of charge. Todd suggested that I may have just needed the firmware update. (thanks Todd!) I sent it to them paying one way shipping and they quickly sent it back, quickly and at their cost, repaired. Otherwise their FAQ suggests that the wires may become fraid. (and I would bet that would account for more than ten of of the fourteen in a million failures.) FWIW my wires looked the same as when I sent it to them, so I assume they did not replace them.

ok, who scored it? If that was silver, you would have had some fierce competition Congratulations!

If you mean the red plastic thing, that is just an idea. It is meant to protect the front of a skateboard and could be purchased from a skateboard shop. It may just get crushed so fast it won't make a difference...or at low speeds it may save the pricey blillet guards.. I was thinking it could be bent to conform with my Joe Kenny headguard, with the screw holes under the guard, possibly glued on. I think the material is polyurethane. A better solution would be to find a strip of PVC, ABS, or polyurethane attach it under the billet aluminum head guard.

Not bad for a bunch of half deaf dyno tuners, but leave the MUSICAL tuning to piano tuners and such. --you can tune a piano, but you can't tune a fish.

I am confused, so is hockey is a form of martial arts AND jazz??????? Don Cherry

Yah, clearly that is not a 2x4 but rather a 1x4

Massimo is the guy on the left

That would be my first guess too. But since the dealers are stumped, it is more likely some hard to diagnose problem. First, what they should check for is smooth consistent ignition(using a timing light), smooth consistent TPS operation, consistant fuel pressure, good compression, proper tuneup settings. In my order of most likely. 1) some hard to locate bad connection....goood luuuck! 2) a bad sensor 3) a bad ECU(unlikely, but it has happened) 4) timing chain (not likely with low miles) 5)dirty fuel filter (yah, even with low miles, but the consistent condition problem contradicts) 6)bad coil (should not be hard to diagnose, but otherwise a likely candidate) 7) bad relaly(I am a sucker for bad relay problems.)

Can't blame you for the priorities. The Hansen Dam ride will probably go another 25 years, unless they have to retrofit Catalytic Convertors on to antiques.... Riding behind them british bikes is like an advertisement for smog control

But $169 is a bargain!

what is hockey?

weak is a relative term. I am pretty sure alot of bikes have weaker charging systems. We do have a bigger starter on our bike than most, so the battery MUST be mostly charged. A few people have added electric grips and vest without problems, but that is probably getting close to risking dead batteries, especially in city driving. depending on load, the charging system needs about 2-3000 rpms before it charges the battery(to find out exactly, hook up a volt meter, apply load and if you are getting less than 12.8volts you are losing charge and rev it till you get more than 13volts, that is about where you need to try to keep the rpms above, or to recharge the battery you will want to keep the rpms where you get maximum voltage readings.). In amps, the bike puts out about ~9A at idle, ~15A at 1500rpms, ~20A at 2000RPM, ~23A at 3000RPM, and peaks at ~27A at redline. My guess is the stock load with low beam and engine on, is about 20A, a volt meter could confirm???? And since your headlight is rated the same as OEM, you need not worry.

PS with the TuneEdit Tach, my Veglia was pretty much spot on, but the digital read out is in such flux that it is difficult to read. The throttle is indicated as being open two degrees when it is closed. (I set the idle to about 1050rpm, my valves are .15/.20mm, my air screws are out a little more than recommended, and I suspect my TPS is off by 15mV at about 165mV with linkage disconnected. I'd like to reset the TPS to 150mV...someday)

http://www.opendiag.org/ I subscribed to their yahoo list, but I need to go back to school or read a lot of DRY books, if I intend to have a clue about what they are discussing. From what I have read, they have gotten partial control of some Marelli ECUs, but I saw nothing mentioned of any Guzzi ECUs. And even this solution is not free as you still need an OBD hardware interface

As far as I know, there is nothing free that works. There are some open source onboard diagnostic software on the market that could conceivably be modified to work....I suspect that is how TuneBoy was created. I believe our ECU was designed to block the open source software so that the TechnoResearch software would have the Monopoly. TechnoResearch makes a "Digital Dashboard" for $169(US) TechnoResearch also makes diagnostic software, and mapping software. http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/Das...20Dashboard.htm I am not sure if a PCIII has a tach feature, but it will give some indication of throttle postion. TuneBoy tune edit software, maps, and can accurately show throttle position and RPM, but the current version does not have the TuneBoy full diagnostics. They charged me $210 for the tuneedit software with one key....your price may vary. If you buy Cliff's ECU, you get the mapping and diagnostics and logging capabilities and WBO2 support and an optional optimizer.