dlaing

That is a nicely set up bike. The owner must have put over $3000 into it. I guess MPH has trouble moving it because of the miles on it, but for those who know better, a deal awaits

...and don't eat anything with black icing! (we know the Scuristas will be tempted)

OK, so if it has nothing to do with the weather, I would suggest Brian should do a compression test, because he should not have lost that much power.

Dude, that Iowana will only give you a headache But seriously that method is the easiest. Just not sure it is good for large pockets of air.

I remember hearing of the FBF for Guzzi cruisers breaking, but the V11Sport/LeMans/etc. I think has been reliable. But many more people on the list have gone with Stucchi because it came out first and developed an excellent reputation for making power. To me, I like the idea of an X rather than an H, for theoretically better breathing, but the dyno graphs indicate that they are comparable. If they both the same price, I would go with Stucchi, but for the money I think it is a no brainer to go with the FBF. The best dollar per HP deal that you will find is drilling the airbox lid. The FBF crossover is in second place. The Stucchi is in third place. I don't know what fourth place would be. Perhaps a used PCIII off eBay Another advantage of the Stucchi is that there are more downloadable PCIII maps available for it. What you probably need to hear is first hand experience with the FBF.... Mistral also makes a crossover. Results with it have variable. Doug Lofgren and others found that it makes great mid-range at the expense of high rpm power. But, Admin Jaap got incredible results with the Mistral x-over or H-over http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3612 HelicopterJim has tried a couple of the crossovers, but I don't remember which ones.

"No where near $2000"! Hey no fair! I have lost so much money on this bike: If I had waited a year, I could have saved $1000 on the price. Over $2000 for Ohlins because I believed the "experts" that the Marz were crap. Quat-D and dyno, over $1000. Now nearly obsolete PCIII $329, because I did not shop around... Thank God it has been reliable, otherwise the bank would foreclose. The gold messed up my paint scheme too. I wanted to try and go retro, with PVM 20 spoke wheels to give it a spoke wheel effect. Aluminum fenders, aluminum signal lights, and to make it look more like Carl Allison's Black and Silver(and white) FrankenGuzzi. But this Ohlins gold just looks modern trick. I was thinking of putting a carbon fiber overlay over the gold anodizing. Or maybe neoprene to protect my $2000 plus forks. But I have no money left for such vanities. But the gold is a good safety color. PS, my Marzocchi forks are up for sale at $2000 firm, but you would have to get stiffer springs. After that, it would be firm.

The Stucchi for better or worse, is heavier. Dyno claims are similar.

I disagree. 100% throttle is where its at! And it is the only way I can come close to keeping up with you...fall back in the curves, wait for the straights, then hit the WOT! and I need every pony! Sure is not as important as tuning the parts of the map that you use 90 percent of the time, but WOT power is more than just bragging rights, it is passing a semi at triple digits. If you HATE the ECU thread, read no further: I still believe that because the Guzzi ECU does not have perfect temperature adjustments, the Guzzi will not make the same reported power at 0ºC as it will at 25ºC and temperatures in between. Sure there other considerations as to why he got 4.6 more peak HP on the other dyno. It is a different Dyno. One dyno I believe is STD and the other SAE Something could be wrong with his engine. and or his bike makes more power +80F and about 10% relative humidity than it does at whatever weather he dyno'd at. If it was Humidity: 92% Wind Speed: SSE 15 MPH G 21 Barometer: 1026 mb Dewpoint: -13°C Heat Index: -12°C Wind Chill: -21°C He should theoretically make better power, and the dynojet dyno will correct the HP to make appear lower. But if the ECU's temperature compensation is not ideal he will not make the same "corrected" HP We see that the richer mixture does nothing to help high RPM power, and in fact the leaner mixture creates more power in the upper mid-range. I suspect this is because the engine can make more power because it is warmer, not because it is a more ideal mixture. The leanness that he had in the lower mid rpms may have helped warm the engine, too. The ECU allows for more fuel when the engine and air are cold. On the dyno we would be out of the ECU's correction range for engine temperature, unless they tested on a less than roughly body temperature engine. There is no change of correction for air temperature from 41 to 112ºF. I think most people fine the bike runs best in cool air, ie. 41ºF. Once you get to around freezing there is some enrichment. But I am not sure that is a good thing. I suspect it will just make the bike run cooler and it will make less power and efficiency. If we had water cooled engines the engine would probably run warmer around freezing and make more power. So my idea is to map the ECU to run leaner when air is cool, I may be totally wrong. But it seems like a good idea to me. Just want to keep it running smoothly and don't want to burn any valves.

In like flint! Thanks!

Friends like her? You are lucky! Except for that one in a million accident.... I suppose everyone who looks at the scars will think it is a botched suicide attempt, but you'll know better. Best of Luck with the surgery!

I thought he was staring at the twins

See what I mean, I thought those were gummy bears!

I thought they were all success stories. Here are the peak numbers: http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/MKB-DynoV11Sport.jpg 2002 67 but with stucchi crossover 82.37 HP http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/GL-03LeMans-Dynorun.jpg 2003 (might have front balance pipe) over 70 with stucchi crossover, a little under 80HP http://www.guzzitech.com/JT-Dyno-PtII-John_T.html 70.7 after extensive mods with stucchi crossover 89.99HP! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ype=post&id=666 Al's bike 64.9 after pretty extensive mods. no stucchi 84.36HP! http://www.guzzitech.com/V11LMDyno.jpg 2002 stock 64.2 no stucchi about 80HP http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/DL_V11S-vs-StockV11S.jpg My2000 when it had Quat-D vs. someone elses with stock mufflers: both just over 60 no stucchi Quat-D 73HP : ( Stock 79HP PCIII tuning link tuning gave me nearly four more peak HP

Alex-Corsa pointed out to me, that the PLX M series http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/PLX-Devices/M300.htm support the TechnoResearch VDSTS and this kit http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/PLX-Devices/TR-O2.htm supports the VDSTS AND the Direct Link. I am not sure what the support is. The webpage description for each is identical for everything but price and software support. Does it log? Does it auto-correct the map? Does it work for bikes that did not have a narrow band O2 sensor? Will any WBO2 controller with 1Volt output work with the TechnoResearch software? Enquiring minds need to know!

And here is a new link to the Ferracci MDST http://www.ferracci.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=68

I am not sure there is an Axeone for Guzzi, althought that picture has the Guzzi logo on it. I imagine that if there is an Axeone for Guzzi, it would be very expensive and that you would be better off with the combination of the MDST or VDSTS and the Direct Link. And if you are on a budget, you would be better off with TuneBoy, if one worked for your bike, which it does not. Now if the PLX TR-O2 can log data to my ECU that does not yet have an O2 sensor, I might go that route, and sell my TuneBoy...or not, because it is just getting too expensive for me. Cliff's MY15 is looking better and better. (or MY16 for Alex) But there is still Motolab's(Derek's) argument that O2 data's value is limited.

I think recording both at the same time would be better, but not worth the additional cost unless you were doing it professionally. I had checked out the M300 and saw nothing about plugging into the ECU and using with VDSTS or DirectLink. But I did not checkout the TR-O2. Will this work for ECUs with no O2 sensor? I don't think so. Also, the VDSTS does not do mapping. Or am I missing something? The PLX M series don't support logging. Does Direct Link or VDSTS log the O2 and other parameters? If not, it is only good on a dyno or not under load. I am hoping someone else could answer this. But the simple answer is go to eBay and search for eprom programmer I do not know which one you would need.

Personally, I think we Bimbo OOglers should keep the naked posts to links with warnings.

It is also interesting that his bike makes more power with the indicated leaner mixture from about 5500 to about 6300 RPMs So, something could be improved on there. And once they figure out what it is, I'll bet they would also increase peak Torque.

There may be something wrong, but I suspect the guzzi ECU temperature correction is wrong. I don't know what the weather is like in the dynoroom, but the current weather in Edmonton is Humidity: 92% Wind Speed: SSE 15 MPH G 21 Barometer: 1026 mb Dewpoint: -13°C Heat Index: -12°C Wind Chill: -21°C If he does a run again in Summer, I would not be surprised to see changes. But maybe not...just my speculative The Stucchi adds alot of mid range: Here are some graphs from http://www.guzzitech.com http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/MKB-DynoV11Sport.jpg 2002 67 but with stucchi crossover http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/GL-03LeMans-Dynorun.jpg 2003 (might have front balance pipe) over 70 with stucchi crossover http://www.guzzitech.com/JT-Dyno-PtII-John_T.html 70.7 after extensive mods with stucchi crossover http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ype=post&id=666 Al's bike 64.9 after pretty extensive mods. no stucchi http://www.guzzitech.com/V11LMDyno.jpg 2002 stock 64.2 no stucchi http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/DL_V11S-vs-StockV11S.jpg My2000 when it had Quat-D vs. someone elses with stock mufflers: both just over 60 no stucchi

I had one, but I traded it for Mistrals because I wanted more top end. The newer vesions appear to have more top end then the one I bought, if you pull the Cat out of the bag. But we are still waiting for some of owners of the newest Quat-D exBox to post some dyno charts. I regret having traded it, as it has benefits that dynocharts don't show, like more torque at 2000 to 3000rpm as well as more midrange, and just a more exhilarating experience in general. Since I sold it, there are solutions for mapping the cylinders seperately, that I am sure could enhance the power and driveability. And others like Jedione have some other bright ideas, like opening the cans and deresticting it.

My money is on WSholar, sneeky fox!

The LittleTuneBoy Come they told me Va rum rum rum rum A new Machine to see Va rum rum rum rum Our finest gifts we bring Va rum rum rum rum To lay before the Machine Va rum rum rum rum, vrum vrum vrum vrum, vrum vrum vrum vrum So to honor Him Va rum rum rum rum When we come Oh baby! Va rum rum rum rum I am a poor boy too Va rum rum rum rum I have no wideband controller Va rum rum rum rum That's fit to give our Machine Va rum rum rum rum, vrum vrum vrum vrum, vrum vrum vrum vrum Shall I play for you Va rum rum rum rum On my TuneBoy Mary nodded Va rum rum rum rum The Goose and Duck kept time Va rum rum rum rum I played my TuneBoy for Him Va rum rum rum rum I played my best for Him Va rum rum rum rum, vrum vrum vrum vrum, vrum vrum vrum vrum Then He smiled at me Va rum rum rum rum Me and my TuneBoy

Oh yah, I forgot about the lime. Bushmill "flavored" coffee could be nice.

And I'll bet you think this good deed is going to be good for your Karma, and Saint Nick will bring you 12 little ponies in a stainless steel box, ho ho ho! How does that song go, On the twelfth day of Christmas my true love sent to me, 12 awesome ponies 11 hundred CCs 10 quarts of amsoil 9 ladies dancing (why change a good thing) 8 grades of silkolene 7 hundred bucks of porting 6 geese a riding 5 GEI Relays 4 billet pegs 3 Wave Rotors 2 leather gloves and a dyno session for a PC Three! ...I know, that was terrible! If you can find someone with a plasma cutter, that seems to be the way to crack the box. Someone on this forum posted excellent photos of the OEM mufflers dissected by plasma cutter. With the plasma cutter, I believe less metal is lost, so when you put it back together, it looks better. Don't forget to take lots of photos