dlaing

Update number 4. His reply said 10-15 inch pounds which translates to about 1 foot pound or 0.15Kg/Meters or 1.45 Newton Meters, which remarkably light. I just got home and confirmed that his instructions said the same as his email. He even underlined the word, inch. I guess I should have read the instructions more carefully.

Yamaha is in first place with points, no doubt largely because of Rossi. But I think they have the best handling bike out there. Some of it may also be because of Ohlins. But I can only imagine how much more flickable a reverse rotating engine would be at 200MPH.

I checked, but only visibly. I guess the solution is to measure against another tank. But I am not that concerned. Just curious if anyone else had the same experience. But if it gets any longer, action will be required!

Update number 3 for Real Gaskets. Harold blames me for over-torquing, but says he'll honor the warranty. He says not to use lock-washers, but to use loctite blue. Fair enough. I guess I better buy a torque wrench.

I recall that years ago some people posted this exact problem with brand new bikes. I am not sure what they did about it. But do check the steering lock (the tab welded on to the steering head) As the others suggested, it could be damaged. Otherwise try rotating the front rubber mounts, as they may be asymetrical. A side note: Has anyone noticed their tank getting longer? Mine is getting more and more difficult to line up the bolt to hold it on. Maybe that makes three tank sizes FWIW I have checked the front rubber mounts and they seem to function properly. ie, the tank slides over them fine. Although I can't see them finding their way home, I am reasonably confident that the tank is seating properly on the front mounts.

Is he the only one riding a bike like that? That could explain his dominance. But then it might lead to questions, like how does he keep the bike upright in first gear????

My money is on relays. I suppose the coils, spark plugs, leads, etc. could be bad, too. Or bad gas... Or an intake leak Or an exhaust leak Or vapor lock Or...

Yo Ho, Yo HO, a pirates life for me! I just have to figure out how to do it without any victims

Ok, I'll replace it. But it is kind of fun to kick someone with it.

Heinous?

Atleast one of us made it to the Lookout Since you have probably sobered up, what are your thoughts on re-mapping both cylinders when it comes to Two into Ones? My guess is that the further your mods get from OEM, the greater the map changes need to be, and if you change the crossover or go to a two into one, you are going to change the cylinder offset requirements of the map. Would you show us your left and right maps for your 2 into 1 and compare it to a left and right mapping of a bike with the stock crossover?

Cool, I forgot all about them, and fact did not know they did more than aftermarket EFI for carbbed bikes. And I also forgot the best ECU of all, that Paul M. and Zeb use: Moto Special Price is about 1300 Euro Slick package replaces ECU, tach and or speedo. Not sure of exact features, but it support dual lambda for closed loop and comes with optimizing software. Just wish it were a lower price. But if you think about the price of replacing the tach, the speedo, the ecu, and having the software to program and control it, it is a deal!

My only concern would be what carcasses are they using. If they are Cheng Shin, then no thank you. But I think some of our bikes would look great with Red tires!

If someone can write a how-to on how to re-map your own chip, this may be the place to post it. You can get mapping software for the the M16 from: http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/TECHNICAL.htm and http://www.mindspring.com/~wayne.orwig/utils.html

I dropped him a PM last night and he replied, "Went out for a 130 mile ride yesterday and wound up at one of the fires! It was burning right up to Hwy 33 in Drumright as we headed home. The sky was pretty dark from smoke and wind blown dust." He might not reply for a while cause he is out hunting urals, whatever they are I think they are related to buffalos and yaks Just kidding...

I am not sure you will get much gains from an aftermarket crossover. The Guzzis without the balance pipe by the alternator have a dip in the power range that the Stucchi and other crossovers correct. The Guzzis with the balance pipe don't have the dip, so they have less to gain. This is not to say they won't make any gains from an aftermarket crossover, but I don't think anyone has proven any gains using a Stucchi on a bike with the balance pipe. You will however gain some sound, as the bike will sound meaner Stucchi is probably the best crossover. Fast by Ferracci makes one with similar HP gains for a bit less money. Mistral makes one, but it is hard to say what it does for power. Some dynos show it giving great top end and midrange, others show it giving alot more mid range, but taking power off the top end. As for remapping the fueling, I believe this is the best thing you can do for your bike. Here are some options: Guzzi ECU left untouched. Your bike will be running too lean. Guzzi ECU trim tweaked by dealer using TechnoResearch VDST or MBDST $Free-$100 This does not do much but is better than nothing. Guzzi ECU bodged by TFI $200 Better than the first two solutions if you have a clue about what you are doing and don't over enrichen it. But it still falls greatly short of other options Guzzi ECU bodged by PCIII serial $Real Cheap second hand...don't pay more than $200. This allows you to download a map that will improve your situation, but better performance comes from dynotuning a custom map to your bike. Guzzi ECU bodged by PCIII USB $250 to $350 depending on how much of a sucker you are. Search the web and get the $250 one or go to guzzitech.com and pay $329.95, but get superior tech support. PCIII USB is twice as good as the serial IMHO... It can seperately tune fueling to each cylinder and it adds throttle pump emulation. Guzzi ECU improved by Axeone????not sure about this one. Teo Lamers modified ECU... $?$?$? Advantage over PCIII is they can re-map the timing. This could be used in combination with a PCIII....probably only required if you twin plug the engine. Guzzi ECU rectified by FIM ultimap flashload $179. http://www.fuelinmoto.com.au/ Basically a one shot deal, with a result theoretically similar to getting a PCIII and using a downloaded map in it. Possibly a little better, because the map was more extensively developed. Guzzi ECU improved by TuneBoy $310, maybe less while in semi-beta. I like this route. This maps directly on the ECU. It is still in development, so it only gives you control of roughly 90% of the ECU. PCIII maps can be overlayed. Older maps automatically. Newer maps, I just guesstimate what the changes would be, but you can also export to Excel, import to the old map, and move it in that way. Dynotuning for a custom map is recommended. Guzzi ECU improved by TechnoResearch DirectLink $379 Same as the Tuneboy, but gives access to more of the ECU. But not worth the extra money IMHO YMMV Guzzi ECU rectified by FIM ultimap diagnostics $1500 I don't know if it is better than DirectLink or TuneBoy, but it better be for that price. Cliff's MY15M Kit is about $300 Not sure what the assembled and tested price is. This is the best. If I could start all over, this is the route that I would take. But it is a bit more expensive, so I did not go this route. Most of the above options can be well mapped with a DynoJet Tuning Link Dyno for a few hundred dollars. For a little better tuning a four gas analysis Dyno like MotoLab, where you get what you pay for. MotoLab can improve the map as much as you are willing to pay for at about $100 per hour. It is a slower and more expensive process than TuningLink, but it can result in a better map. If you spend only $200 it probably will not be better. If you spend $1000, it will be better and if you spend $2000 it will close to perfect. Or you can optimize many of these yourself. Cliff's MY15M can be modified with the optimiser for less than $250 and less than $125 in kit form. WBO2 controllers are another way to improve the mapping. If you go this route, you will want to get one with logging and be prepared to spend hours testing and re-mapping and re-testing. You will need access to wide open roads, preferably with a large hill, and no police to bother you while you are testing. Sorry if that is more than you wanted to know... Most people will probably just get the Stucchi and PCIII USB and download a map.

What is your secret? The only perfect method for me is to replace them everytime, but I am too cheap, which is why I INVESTED in the Real Gasket® I don't think I have ever gotten more than four changes out of one gasket, without leaks developing.

For all you diehard readers, here is my TuneBoy tuning experience update. For the most part, I gave up on the Ti Map. It felt very good and mid to high RPMs, but lower rpms, and throttles had greatly increased popping. My overlay of a PCIII map did not seem to help. So, I went back to the OEM ECU and overlayed the PCIII map for mistral mufflered v11. I then proceed to slowly enrichen and retard it until the pinging went away. The good news is that I have tuned it so that there is no pinging, even on 87 Octane. The bad news is fuel consumption is up. I am now getting 29 to 34 MPG(US) down from about 30-37MPG. Some decrease in fuel efficiency was expected as almost all the mods to the base map have been timing retarding and fuel enrichment. I am switching back to 89 OCTANE, and will see about pushing some of the numbers leaner. To start, I will mostly be targeting rich numbers from the PCIII overlay. cheers!

Especially since it was dry in Sun Diego! hmmm, maybe they saw the ominous North West clouds and turned around...

Update number 2. My Real Gaskets failed a few months ago. But since they come with a lifetime warranty, I sent them an email. I'll let you all know how the replacement goes. My guess is that I should have used lock washers and torqued down less firmly... How are other people's holding up?

Nice Post! Does anyone know what size threads the idle set screws are? Mine are wearing out from adjusting too many times, or using too small of a hex key...but I swear I have every size EDIT apparently they are five mm by about 14mm long. I bought a pair of five mm by 16mm with standard hex cap, so I can use a bigger hex key It went in very loosely, so Loctite is a must.

I should give that a try. I have used the engine oil method and usually only get about 3 valve adjustment, before leaking starts and then I have to torque down pretty tight till I can buy some more. I also tried the silicone gaskets from RealGaskets.com, but they got crushed by apparently too much torque on the screws. If I get his silicone gaskets again, I'll use lock washers and torque it a little less. I have also tried siliconing to the valve cover and oiling the side to the head. This seems to work just a little better than the oil each side method, but I am usually too lazy to bother... Maybe next time, I'll try grease one side and silicone(or yamahabond(thanks trispeed)) the other and use lockwasher so I don't over tighten the gasket. Greg, what type of grease do you use? Has anyone tried silicone grease on the gaskets?

Don, I hope you don't mind if I borrow one of your images to use as an avatar...

Here are some more photos of the five Guzzis at the Outlook. for full size go here and click on the thumbnails http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/lookout1106/index.html Weather was not too bad. Ortega Hwy was wet, but I headed up to Palomar Mountain which was dry and free of fallen boulders. Tomorrow will be a wash

Are those the re-treaded tires? I think that is an excellent idea if the carcasses are from quality tested tires