dlaing

Glad you could give in. Why don't you give in all the way and stay with the discussion here?

Yah, I would probably do the lower mod you suggest before the upper. The factory refabricated the frame, so doing it with genuine guzzi parts would be very expensive, but just fabricating something out of aluminum or steel or carbon fiber or fiberglass could help make the bike more rigid. Atleast on the right side, you could just clamp on to the frame and bolt on to the engine. I'll have to look closer. I was even thinking of doing something with cables, which would only help in tension, and therefore only be half as effective, perhaps even less under accelleration, but twice as easy, maybe???

For a Jackal. Could this fit? http://www.guzzisport.com/html/top_031123.html From what I heard they do not do international orders....

No, just http://www.guzzisport.com/html/top_031123.html But it is pretty clear that they just bolt on. (but not on your Sporti) And here is another shot of their throttle wheel.

I think they have different diameters, to give you a different pull leverage. IMHO it should be set to the smaller diameter. skilled racers may want the larger diameter for quicker throttle action with less bend of the wrist.

I have not seen his oil, but black is not how I would describe the oil of any machine I have owned after 3000 miles. Rick wrote, "I was surprised at how black my oil was, I mean it looked like black ink!" This ain't no squid bike Your filter may have spun off and be dangling at the bottom of the pan letting oil flow through unfiltered. Castrol is cheap. Drain it. Clean out the pan. Replace the filter. Replace oil with synthetic. ride observe ride

I think the crankcase breather hose is made of vinyl or maybe urethane, so it would not break down with black particulates in the same way that rubber would. When I pulled off my fuel injection filter for the first time, it was filled black fuel that I have not seen on subsequent oil changes. My guess is that I replaced a line that was disolving, but it could be the OEM Webber filter just filters better. EDIT or I just got a tank of bad fuel...

Sorry about the delay! click on the thumbnails for bigger picture Note the flash exagerates the bling factor in the second two shots. The first shot may exagerate how unnoticable it is. So far it is charging fine!

Any chance the blackness could be caused by disolving rubber hoses????? I used to swear by Castrol before switching to synthetics, and it would get brown and sludgeful on my V65 after 3000 miles, but never black. Or maybe the oil filter failed and filtered nothing???? Just trying to think outside the airbox Get it, think outside the (air)box PS you can also order a BMC filter from http://www.ferracci.com/

I used Hammerite® over a fiberglass windscreen. The results were good but well short of great, and nowhere near perfect. Spraycan painting is an art. Never start pressing the button while aimed at your target. Press the button aiming at nothing and then sweep over the target. Don't put too much on(drip), and don't put too little on(dry). Consistency will produce a consistent surface. But inevitably the spray can will blurp on your last pass.

Do you scrape the residue off and sell it to Americans as Goose Leftover Pâté?

I am not sure I can find a torque wrench accurate enough. We shall see. PS Goose fat and potatoes is delicious!

From this bonehead's website http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/v11bearings I got it from somewhere on the forum.... Not sure what that D with the line through it is. Be sure to double check that the number is right.

I just go here http://www.imageshack.us/ The way I did it with big in small images was tricky because I have not figured out how to use their thumbnail locations. To post at imageshack, just go there, click on browse, browse to your files, host the files, copy the link, go back to our forum, start a reply or post, click on IMG button, paste the link and click OK add your reply imageshack allows you to resize the images, which is a good idea, to help our friend who have slow internet connections.... This site may be even better than imageshack http://www.imagevenue.com/ but I have not tried it yet... EDIT Hmmm that works! I guess I did it the hard way. So, I guess I'll start using imagevenue now!

But this picture is better I guess you don't mind if everyone has a crush on your wife.

I like the picture of you squeeeezing on to presumably her bike. Is that why it is called LittleBigRacing?

But you torque everything to more than one foot pound, right? The Real Gaskets from http://www.realgaskets.com are made from "aerospace mechanical grade AMS silicone" and will deform if torqued like our OEM gaskets. (what is the torque spec for rocker cover with OEM gasket? 5-10 foot pounds or so The rocker cover with Real Gaskets are to be torqued to about 1 foot pound. I am not sure I have ever removed anything that was loctited... I have only used loctite where I hoped to never have to return to. If this does not work, I am going back to OEM gaskets. We shall see! Anyone else using Real Gaskets?

Here are images of Carl's bike! Click on the link below the image for the BIG picture http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/8047/guzzi12kp.jpg http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6574/img11742fk.jpg http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7975/img11767ar.jpg http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/9643/img11809gm.jpg http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/8834/leftsideview0wv.jpg http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/4884/pipes11fi.jpg http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1405/porkchop12js.jpg

Any chance the key was turned on when you swapped batteries? Not likely. When you swapped, you also would have likely noticed loost battery terminals.... You might want to check the regulator and make sure you don't get more than 14.6V. ECU grounding? could be. Maybe one of the loose wires coming off the ECU shorted??? Heck I don't know. It may have just been a bad fuse.

Yay! I was right for once! As Carl was too.

Make sure that when you turn on the key and listen for the pump, the bike is in neutral and the kickstand is up. (it is unlikely that both the kickstand and neutral circuitry would both fail) Hold starter buttton in, clutch in and turn handle bars back and forth. (In your case this is not likely to start, but an easy test to exclude weirdness) Look for visible signs of corrosion at relays and fuses. More likely problems could be diagnosed with some simple probing for 12V: I would probe the fuses for signs of life. Fuses 1-5 (ECU, charge, ignition, and headlight) should be live with key switched both off and on. Fuses 6-8 (dipped lights, directionals, fuel petcock) should be live with key switched on. Probe both sides of fuse to ensure continuity. To do a quick check of relay connections, just reach under and push up, feeling for loose wires. You can also probe the relay sockets, but that is getting complicated. If that all checks out, the ECU is a likely culprit as Carl suggested. I could swing by this weekend and let you try my ECU.

All he has proven is that he won the championship and is the best. If he can win it on a Guzzi, then he would prove that he is the best regardless of what bike he rides. He is not unbeatable on any given day, and I still suspect that he has the best bike out there. I don't know the statistics, but I believe this is his best year ever. Maybe he keeps getting better, or maybe it is the M1 getting better. I suspect the other Yamaha riders will do even better next year

I don't think so. They wrote the following on their website http://www.raceco.com/tech.html

I put on my website: But I got to thinking the manual says intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) in every language. So the "US spec" maybe the same as the "World spec" I think the term "US spec" originated in other Guzzis Can anyone verify? In any case any spec other than the US spec is good enough. One person suggested they got better fuel consumption at intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) Others suggest the bike idles better with more gap. YMMV

Aren't those wires for testing the EFI? Are they item 44 on the diagram labled "Warning Light Connector"???? I seem to recall a discussion where it was determined that one of the wires shows 12V when the fuel pump is running, which runs only when the the key is first turned on for about 1 full second, and then when the engine is running. Perhaps that is ideal? But it may be sending pulse codes for diagnostics. On the P8 ECU (not our bikes) the wires to the check lamp send pulses. I would not wire there unless we find out more about those connectors. I suggest you wire the relay control into the headlight wiring, you may find it will start better as the headlight dims when the starter is activated...Of course you could wait till after starting to turn on the warmers. You could also take the opportunity to run a 12 or 14 gauge wire directly from battery to the lights and use the original wires to trigger it by relays, one for Low and one for High Beam. A third relay could activate the grip heaters. If you use 12 gauge, you could also power the grip heaters from the same wire. If you had a sport, all three relays could be housed in the head light shell. Not sure about the Le Mans