Baldini

...but...that old 950 ran great on a set of straight thru pr type (crossbow) pipes, w/ simple balance pipe under the gearbox for years even as it threw out the inside perforated tubes & packing bit by bit - at my level it's not an exact science...it was easier for simpletons like me when we had carbs...but so long as you don't let it run too weak full speed ahead captain...pioneer spirit...it's what America was built on... really tho...stick to the white! KB, Cymru ...& let's not kid ourselves...it's noise we want...noise IS power eh chaps! but remember...they'll always hear you coming ....the tinnatus'll tell you when to quiet it down a bit!

I don't know much about this but I did run my 950 tonti w/o any balance pipe for a while & it killed the top end. I think it's about scavenging. they were wide diameter headers too which probably didn't help... Captain, I still think you were good on the white ....blue??? KB, Cymru

Go to it Captain...just don't blow up the lab!!

Same bush on my Scura has shown chewed up bits of rubber since new. The bush looks like it was badly fitted - the metal pressing is kinked - It's chewed up a bit more over 6K miles but I don't feel any play....yet. KB, Cymru

I liked the white - reminded me of 60's hotrod V8 headers - everyone's got silver ones... KB, Cymru

what can this mean? KB, Cymru

...a Guzzi without a working speedo...it's good to know that, in this ever changing world, some things will always be around ... Stay safe docc, especially now you don't know how fast you're going! KB, Cymru (it's Welsh for "Wales")

belfastguzzi, mine's done it since new, now 6K miles, still same...I live with it...Jaap - do the holes actually stop it? KB,Cymru

Captain, How about .... Bin the tacho but keep the speedo on ally mount, bin the idiot light cluster & use a Lucas type chromed h/lamp w/integral idiot lights (oil/charge/main beam)...bung any left over loose wires in the voluminous h/lamp shell.... ...well it was just an idea.... KB, Cymru

Roberto, Did you get any sense out of Guzzi as to why the sleeve broke? Interesting what you say about parts use in assembly... I did see a low miles Scura about 4 months ago in London dealer w/disintegrated selector forks, pos same problem? Anyone here? Tell us about the Nurburgring... KB,Cymru

Roberto, What was mileage when it let go? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Your frame no comes into the batch Paul detailed in a previous thread as being subject to recall. It may be an 01 bike. I think that the ...01...in the frame number may refer to 2001. Mine is ...02... in the sequence, it's an02 bike I think as Scuras only made in 02? What...NO problems?!! Cheers, KB, Cymru

There's a bloke posted on Guzzi Club GB site saying he's had recall notice on 02 bike for conrod bolts/gbox stuff...It may be an 01 bike bought in 02 it wasn't clear. Not replied to my email. First I've heard of here - Anyone else UK had one? KB, Cymru

that suggests that it's design rather than manufacture or material...but why didn't the springs start breaking til 02 models? Is there anything different in the selector mech or box that could contribute to stressing the spring?

Wildbill, At which point on Hank's spring was the break? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Docc, Is the spring/selector design exactly the same on early V11's? If it's a bad batch of springs on 02's...what about Wildbill's Oklahoma spring snap? Coincidence (...or conspiracy ???) But if it's the design how come it didn't show up before 02's? KB, Cymru

Scura clutch is noisy as hell. John O'Sullivan has Scura - visited Agostinis, they approved of the noise...said that Scura clutch was improved over earlier single plate (Rosso Mandello) but also noisier. Did I get that right John? (& how are ya? - not seen you here for a while...). Re that "grenade" - on photos it's a piece of flywheel that flew out rather than clutch, not sure if flywheel is same on Scuras/LeMans? Anyone? Any word on why that flywheel failed? (Paul?). Cheers, KB, Cymru

I know nothing much about metalurgy. We need comments of someone who does on this. I think there was room to wrap the spring round, but we need to check with parts dismantled. I don't see why 180 should be weaker than 90 if radius is simply continued round? If we don't do 180, we should at least extend the short arm by 3mm or so if there's room in the mech. It's still not clear whether the radius on the original spring is too sharp or if it was just dodgy mat/manufacture. It does appear that a softer radius would cause less stress () ... Cheers, KB, Cymru

Thanks Jaap... ...if only I had a brain To explain above... 1. Standard spring in use twists & pulls down towards the edge of plate. 2. Spring would slide on larger radius further across plate, pos off edge. 3. 180 bend would retain spring. KB, Cymru

The bottom of the spring hooks over a plate. In use, as the plate moves, the end of the spring tends to slide sideways towards the edge of the plate. A larger radius will increase this tendency. I think spring needs to be hooked right over the plate, or at least the length of the short arm increased, to ensure retention if the radius is increased. Has anyone got one apart at the moment? KB, Cymru

I always change tubed tyres - I thought I have to have a tyre shop do tubeless ones on the Scura. How easy is it to get them off/on/sealed w/o beadbraker & stuff? Thanks KB, Cymru

What does your supplier think of this spring design in this application - if well made, is it up to the job or does it need redesigning? Unfortunately I know nothing about metallurgy - maybe someone else out there? The spring is within the gearbox so I wouldn't have thought corrosion would be an issue. Thanks for your efforts, KB, Cymru

Kiwi Dave, I'm sorry, the first part no I gave was wrong. It was in fact the no for a special tool "for removings of large object from tight spaces in painless manner" ...I hope it has not caused you too much embarrassment Sorry about that, KB, Cymru

Paul, Do you think it is the design, the material, or both that is at fault in the original spring? Was the spring known to fail on the Daytona? If the radius on your spring was continued thru 180 degrees & stopped it would provide a more secure location, the larger radius will encourage the spring towards the edge of the plate in use. What do you think? Is your spring heavier gauge? It appears to have an extra coil? Have you many miles on one? Are they available? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Thanks for the offer . Part no is: 04 23 83 00 Re modifications, I'd be happy w/ same design if it didn't break! Ir's not clear why the springs break. Material, manufacture or design? Maybe a thicker material is necessary. Can that be done w/ same design w/o making it stiffer?The spring material could not be thicker than the width of the pin it locates against on the ratchet arm. It may be that the spring would be less stressed if the radius of the 90 degree bend was larger.The spring tends to slide sideways in use, away from the plate it locates on at it's lower end. A larger radius on the 90degree bend at this point would make it slide further (there is nothing to retain the spring on the plate if it slides too far). However, a larger radius here, with the short arm continuing thru 180degrees, so that the spring wraps around the back of the plate would mean it couldn't slide right off. The plate edge could also then be radiused ? I'm no engineer, any other comments ? Anyone got one apart at the moment? Cheers, KB, Cymru .