Francis Chartier

Same cause, same effect: front left indicator wire was pinched under left steering stop when bike was on stand, halft-cutting and shorting the two wires. As the wire were damaged in their protective insulation, It was not apparent without close inspection. Using tie-wrap to displace wires prevent this to happen again.

I'll try to make some pictures this week-end (Guzzi informal meeting near Monpazier, France). The replacement part is composed of 3 different parts: two are custom designed to be fitted with an industrial part. Here are the tech drawing for the 2 CNC parts (with a thermal treatment) and some pics of the final parts and fitting in the bevel box. http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/V11s-2.0/Pont/ENTRETOISE%20INTERIEURE.pdf http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/V11s-2.0/Pont/ENTRETOISE%20EXTERIEURE.pdf http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/V11s-2.0/Pont/bagues.jpg http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/V11s-2.0/Pont/final1.jpg http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/V11s-2.0/Pont/final2.jpg http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/V11s-2.0/Pont/final3.jpg 2 or 3 years ago we made a few set, I could search for the industral part ref. No more problem of rusted needle bearing...

Same advice: I actually ride with 120/60-17 and 160/60-17 on my '99 V11 Sport (4,5" rear wheel). It feels better than the 120/70 + 170/60 that was the original fitting. I ride with Dunlop Roadsmart II and I find them far better than any previous tyres I use: Michelin Road Pilot/Macadam, BT 057/56/20/21/23..., Avon whatever, Pirelli Diablo...

Mods I have done on my '99 V11 Sport (short frame, 4,5" original rear wheel): - Forks: revalved Paioli UPSD + Ohlins linear springs, - Beringer cast iron brake disks, - Beringer CNC machined radial brake and clutch MC, - Ohlins rear shock with specific spring, - 1100 Sport triple clamp, - Rizoma handlebar, - Carbon fiber front mudguard, - Bevel box right outer needle bearing replaced by custom CNC machined part, - ECU replaced by Digital Ignition and PHM40 Dell'Orto with short action Tomaselli throttle, - K&N Pods with 2,5" pipes, - Moto Spezial Tacho and Rev clock, - Marshall fuel pressure gauge, - Roper Plate, - Complete QuatD exhaust: first version, non-cat free-flowing one. As I ride mainly on little twisty roads here in France (google maps: area Périgueux, Brive, Montauban: Périgord - Quercy area + Pyrénées) I choose to work primarily on suspensions and brakes. I am pleased with the result, bike is lighter than stock, more precise and quick steering without sacrificing stability: I ride without steering shock even on poor roads. As it is a '99 V11 Sport, I had the 2 rods replaced under warranty and made a nice deal on this occasion: I bring only the engine to the mechanic, giving him 3 month to do the job when it suits him without having to put the engine out of frame or back in. In exchange he wheighted conrods + pistons and balanced them with flywheel + cranksahft. I do not regret any mod done, bike is really fun to ride. Mod I dream to do: replace PHM40 with Keihin FCR and rebuit it completely using Ghezzi-brian frame and body.

65.000 km+ on the original spring from factory on my '99 V11 Sport.

I have a 1999 V11 Sport and replaced the stock rear suspension with a reconditioned S46HR1C1S Ohlins with custom spring, bought from PFP (french representative for Ohlins). It get adjustable compression and rebound hydraulic damping as well as adjustable hydraulic sping preload (very convenient when alterning often one or two up fort short rides). I also replaced the dreadful 40mm Marzo fork with a 43mm Paioli SuperSport UPSD, bought new from the parts department of defunct Voxan factory (the Voxan Cafe-racer used that fork). Fully adjustable for compression and rebound hydraulic damping on each stem. I swap the original springs with stiffer Ohlins springs (1.05 ratio) as the Voxan was lighter that the V11S, with custom machined wheel axle and brake holding plates. These parts are far superior to the original ones, and the result is really effective and pleasant on the little and rought roads where I live (France, Périgord).

I have a '99 V11Sport. I fit an Ohlins S46HR1C1S (retail part, not OEM part for Guzzi) with a spring choosed for my riding style and load, and found it far superior to the original Sachs. Same for the crappy Marzocchi 40 fork, replaced with a USD 41mm Paioli fork with Ohlins springs. Paioli Fork As the '99 Sport use the short frame, I change triple clamps for a 1100Sport model to gain a little more stability and I am very pleased with the results.

As he said. Two years ago I had to replace my '99 swelled tank by a '94 1100 Sport metal one, and let the streched one open and empty on a shelf. I saw last week that it shrinked enough to be used again without using a crowbar to fit. I'm pretty pleased to have more than 21L of gas, rather than the 17L of the 1100 Sport.

Some pics of the MC I'll try to do some more pics with the bike attached to the parts.

I use Beringer cast iron disks on my 1999 V11 Sport and Beringer Aerotec Radial MC for brakes and clutch with Brembo carbon-ceramic (organic) pads. Far superior to OEM Brembo in terms of efficiency and feeling. Beringer Web Site Braking is powerful, even using only 2 fingers.

My 1999 V11 Sport has a thread locker nut (metal type, not a Nylstop) and a washer. Probably a Luigism. :

EDIT: Even if the Calif is really a sedate beast I thought that an outfit was more prone to pickup exposure as it turns "flat": oil is moving in the sump much more than a solo. Aniway his engine got a problem of oil starvation (cam and followers pitting, rod bearings are shot) but it was in my opinion primarily caused by misuse and neglect from the previous owner. There was other signs: missing screws, rusted parts, overused brakes rotors, etc. The ongoing autopsy will tell if he'll do a complete engine swap or repairs, and he'll fit an oil pressure gauge to see if a plate is necessary. Thanks for the answer, I'll pass it to my friend.

Hello A mate who ride a Calif III/Watsonian outfit search an equivalent to the Famous Dr Roper Sloppage Plate. As it fits directly under the engine, the width&length are the same, but as the oil filter housing, pressure valve and oil pickup are in diffrent places I suppose the plate is different. Is ther any Sloppage Plate for Calif II? TIA

Moto Spezial in Germany sells several models of Instruments with Electronic Ignition http://www.moto-spezial.de/ Onlineshop, MotoSpezial Products, Instrument I have one (Doppel Instrument with Ignition) on my 1999 V11 Sport with Dell Orto PHM 41. It runs with the genuine Guzzi/Marelli phase sensor. I just had to reduce the gap under the sensor tip from 1.2 mm (as wrongly fitted at the factory) to 0.7 mm gap. Runs fine.

In case you have to put your hands in, you'll find useful docs here : http://guzzitek.org/gb/cadres_gb.htm HTH

Hum... I do a lot of spannering to my bikes mainly because I like that very much, I like solving problems and working with tools. I can be wrong, it would not be the first or last time, I'll gladly accept constructive critics or suggestions (a good way to improve knowledge) but I don't have any time to lose with those who can bore you to death with idle speculations and bickering. Anyway after all is said, we're just a group of fun loving reasonable guys, I really cannot see how this thread could go over 40 pages.

Mine had no hole, same result. Every rear tyre change I tried to clean it the best I could before using clean grease but it died nonetheless. I think that the best solution would be to find a sealed bearing (6xxx type, like those for the wheels), but we could not find any with the correct size.

Firts, my apologies for the rusty english, schooldays are long gone and technical english is pretty hard for me. At 50.000 km, I found the right side external needle bearing shot, with a damaged internal race. How strange... Parts 30, 31 and 33 on the drawing of the parts list: http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...Eclate_Pont.pdf I am not going to rant about this needle bearing, the subject has been already discussed at length here. As the same causes produce the same effects, I decided to find an other solution than simply replace this bearing. Time will tell if it is a clever and *better* solution or just a complicated way to butcher a bevel box. After some thoughts and wine with a mate, we decide to use a cheap and readily available composite sliding bushing designed to withstand important efforts. We choose a Composite Dry Sliding Bushing, ref. PCM 252815 M in the SKF catalog. Then, we designed the parts that will hold this bushing and the wheel axle in the bevel box. Finally: http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...nt/ENSEMBLE.pdf is a global drawing of the 2 parts + the bushing More details in http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...0EXTERIEURE.pdf for the external race that will be pressed in the bevel box, replacing part 30 of the part list http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...0INTERIEURE.pdf for the internal race (part 31 of the part list). The two parts are milled from XC48 steel, the internal one is then tempered (quenched?) to gain resilience (HRC > 50) for the sliding bushing. OK, I hear some snoring from the back of the classroom, enough for the whiteboard, let's go and grease our elbows... It was not too early to do the job... The needle bearing was shot, it was a nightmare to get it out of the bevel box: http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...n_roulement.jpg http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...Pont/bagues.jpg (lower left for the old inner race) I then fit the bushing in the outer race. As I do not have a press I use the classical method of heating the outer race while putting the bushing in the freezer. A trace of grease on the bushing, an anvil, a flat metal piece and a big hammer later, it is done: http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...s+coussinet.jpg A few minutes of heating later, it was fitted in the bevel box. http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...Pont/final1.jpg http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...Pont/final2.jpg http://www.bete-des-vosges.org/Visible/V11...Pont/final3.jpg Job done. A soon as some other modifications are done (fix broken oil cooler bracket, fit brakes on new fork), I will get new tyres (Pirelli Diablo) and will thoroughly test it on the roads. Stay tuned...

I got an ODYSSEY/ HAWKER PC 545 from MotoMoto-NL last year http://stores.ebay.fr/MotoMoto-NL_Batterie...8QQftidZ2QQtZkm Efficient and quickly delivered to France, last year. HtH

Yes, PHM41. Ignition from Moto Spezial. The ECU was fried, and the Moto Guzzi dealer refused to change it under warranty. At that time (2001/2002), there was no dealer with the Guzzi software near home, so...

Just rebuilt after a big front crash.

Here in France, there is a consensus among "traditionnal" guzzi mechanics at 0,15/0,20 mm to get an even idle at 1100/1150 rpm. Factory setting of 0,10/0,15 is convenient for a quieter engine, but does not seem optimum from a mechanical point of view.

Looks like the Tavola brothers race bike? I meet them at Nogaro (Gers, France) 2 years ago during the Coyote's Days (a classic bike meeting/racing event). Really fine people, very helpful and happy to share their knowledge. -- Francis Chartier 99 PHM41 V11Sport 93 1000 Strada 98 350 Jawa

They have compression damping... of a sort. More precisely, they have crappy compression damping. There is a "needle" inside the hollow main rod, inside the fork cartridge, just above the cartridge piston. That needle is pushed on a conical seat by the adjustment rod (it slides in the main rod) under the screw in the top nut of the fork. When you turn clockise that screw, the needle is lowered on the seat and close the oil bypass from under the piston to the top of the cartridge, augmenting the compression damping as the piston travels downward. Counter-clockwise, the needle/seat clearance is augmented, thus reducing damping (more oil flow). Well, that is the theory, then Luigi strikes... The seat of that needle collects oil crud and the neddle then get stuck very quickly in the closed position, closing the oil bypass and setting to maximum the damping compression. It is easy to verify: remove the wheel and axle, remove the top cap and the blue nut, then the spring so you can pump the rod/piston assembly in the cartridge. When you push the rod/piston downward, the oil going through the oil bypass should push the neddle up, and you should see the adjustment road climbing outside the main hollow rod, 3/4 mm. If the needle is stuck it will not climb and the move of the assembly is slowed. What can we do? Disassemble fork, rinse with cheap oil, clean thoroughly, rinse, reassemble with fresh oil. Yo! problem solved... for 500/1500 km, YMMV I think that the design and the manufacturing of the Marz 40 is crappy and you'll have to replace the cartridges with decent ones (Maxxton or others). My solution: trash the original MarZocchi 40 USD and swap for a brand new Paioli USD41 SuperSport bought cheap from the Voxan factory (leftover from the 2001 Cafe-racer model, upgraded now with a bigger fork). http://www.paioli.com/paiolini/detail_en.php?id=67 Hope this help. -- Francis