GuzziMoto

Oh, and if you, or anyone else wants to try to build your own two into one system you can buy a variety of pre-made collectors from a number of sources.

Yea, it is complex and just building a system without understanding all that is a crap shoot. There are so many factors, length of the primary pipes, diameter of the primary pipes, the length and shape of the collector and the following pipe, length and diameter of the muffler. And that is just the basics. There is power to be made in the exhaust, but also power to be lost. With our Ducati racebikes we worked with a guy named Herb Gebler. He was a dedicated exhaust builder who built all kinds of high performance exhaust pipes for all kinds of race motors. Much of the little I do know about exhaust pipes was either learned from him or proved through working with him. When I first started working with him I thought I knew what I wanted. He showed me that his way (which involved a two into one pipe for our Ducati) was better than my way ( a two into two pipe). That said, I still would like to build my own pipe, not because I think I can do it better than the pros but because I think it would be fun and cool.

with this, do you mean more grunt from lowdown in the RPM band? Because thats what i use most during my rides. Another benefit of a 2-1 is the fact that i only need one muffler, saving me some money. @Don, I found something on their site. Only one small picture unfortunately 380 B pounds still sounds like a lot of money. I guess I prefer building something myself, hopefully learning something in the process. Thanks for sharing though! It does not always mean more power down low. It can, but really it is often more about mid-range torque. And a proper designed two into one should make more mid-range torque across a wider rev range than a two into two system. The best way to think of it in my opinion is less peaky. The GPR system looks nice, and I doubt you will be able to build one for significantly less then that. I have not used one yet, but those that have seem suitably impressed. I would put one on the wife's V11 but she likes her bike the way it is. My Griso has a two into one as mentioned and when I get around to it I want to try that GPR system on my Daytona. I would also prefer to build my own for the Daytona but I know reality is it will take me much longer and cost me more than just buying the GPR system.

I am a big fan of 2 into 1 systems. We ran them on our Ducati racebikes, and they did well power wise. They sounded like the Devil himself as well. Way better then all the other Ducatis with twin cans. And my Griso has one, seems to work well but I did opt for a right side exit reverse cone system from a guy in Cali. It sounds great as well. It seems most people with Guzzi's, and Ducatis, prefer the two into two systems. I don't know why. A two into one system has more of a snarl than a two into two system does. A two into two system has a deeper sound with more emphasis on the individual thuds of each cylinder. The two into one system kinda blurs them together. But that is what it does, it applys the energy of one exhaust pulse to help the next one in the other cylinder get out. Technically the stock V11 system is a two into one into two system but the junction between the two pipes is very short and does not do a good job power wise to apply the energy from one pulse over to the other cylinders exhaust. A well designed two into one system will have a larger area under the power curve. A two into two system might make more peak power but likely less power everywhere else.

The Galfer rotor is interesting, if it fits. If the pads overhang the slightly smaller disc they can be trimmed, but I am not sure I want to deal with that. I look forward to hearing how things go with the Galfer disc. I am more likely to have a stock disc lightened as I know it will work. But it is good to have options.,

If you haven't already looked at this kind of stuff, check out what some are doing. http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137588 http://www.speedysgarage.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_mods/1000RR_lightenedrearrotor/lightenedrearrotor.htm The first link is awesomely trick. The other is more like what anyone can do. It is funny if you read all the comments, even in the realm of sportbike guys there are still many who don't get it and get all worked up about what others are doing even if they have no direct knowledge or experience with what they are talking about. Kinda reminds me of HatchetWacker.

Damn straight. Brakes only slow you down anyway. Please don't mistake any doubts I express for in any way saying don't spend money on your Guzzi. As long as you can afford it (and even sometimes when you really can't) do as much to your Guzzi to make it yours as you can. Titanium is cool. Will you feel a difference? probably not. But it is still cool to have bolts, or even an axle, made out of Ti. I also agree that iron discs are better, but that is mainly for the front discs. At the rear, hell, you could almost use aluminum. Almost. There are more than a few that have machined their rear brake disc, filling it with holes or whatever, until it is the bare minimum to stop them. It is a common racer trick as aluminum or titanium discs are typically not allowed. But for street use a titanium disc would be awesome. How well would it work? Hell, who cares. Think how light that would be. If you have not already done so, more than a few have used a Lithium battery. I have one one my Griso. Can I feel the difference? No. But I know it weighs less and it seems to work. The first Lithium battery I used did not work out so well. It did not have the amps to start the bike unless it was warm. The second one, Ballistic, seems to work better. My dream is to build an aluminum frame for my Daytona. Easy to dream, hard to pull off. Measuring the bits you take off compared to the lighter bits you replace them with is key. It serves two purposes, it lets you tell us all how much weight you have saved and it is the main way you will know your 500 lb Guzzi is only 490 lbs. Hard to feel a 2% reduction in weight. But go for it.

I agree with the others, you could not run the rear brake rotor all together and you would not notice it, until you tried to stop. If you want to run an aftermarket rear rotor, go for it. But if the swept area of the disc does not match the swept area of the pads issues can arise. The pads, if they overhang off the outer edge of the disc, can wear down until the the parts of the pad that do not contact the disc (and thus do not wear) are touching. When that happens you pretty much loose the ability to apply that brake. Other options are there are companies out there (or you might be able to do it yourself, or find a local machinist who can) that will fill the brake disc full of holes to make it as light as possible. Brake discs are pretty tough so it may be hard to do it yourself with a harry home owner drill press, but where there is a will there is a way. Another option would be to, as you already mentioned, buy an aftermarket brake disc. But I doubt you will see a 2 lb reduction in weight there. Unless the aftermarket rotor has considerably less material it will not weight considerably less.

Sweet, very nice. I wish I could justify the money on the Ohlins cartridges. Maybe next time. I have no doubt they are worth it. I did drop the coin on a Brembo adjustable master from Todd at GuzziTech.

Looks great. I hope it will work as well for you as it looks.

My wifes early, red frame, V11 had clip-ons. We swapped to bars. The stock triple clamps had the bosses for bars and only had to have the holes added for the risers. I could see about looking for a part number on them.

Almost everybody makes wheels for GSXR's. The hard one is finding someone who makes wheels for Guzzi's. If they make wheels for Guzzi's they almost certainly will offer a wheel for a GSXR. I don't need the wheels to match, I just need them to look like they go together. Close is good enough, especially once I paint them some sort of charcoal grey to hide the dirt. What I want for the front (the GSXR front end) is a carbon wheel like from BST. A carbon front wheel dramatically improves handling.

It is a matter of personal taste, at least to some extent.... But I can't seeing CHOOSING to put a 5.5" wide rear rim on a Guzzi. I know you will have a larger assortment of sticky tires to choose from and all that, but a 180 (which is the size typically made to fit a 5.5" rim) just seems like more tire than required for the job. The other question is clearance, I thought with the 160 I have on there now there is not much room, I would doubt there was 10mm as would be expected required to go from a 160 to a 180(but I realize it is seldom that simple in terms of math). You may find that you either have to go with an undersized tire or perhaps some brand 180's will fit and others will not. The aspect of clearance is just speculation, as I mentioned I still have the stock rear rim on mine, I actually like the 18" rear rim. I had an FZR 400 with the same set up. I thought it worked well. That said, those rims are sweet. I would be very happy with either the 6 sp, the 5Y, or the 7Y, rims. Did they say how much it would cost? Oh, and another option would be fitting wheels from a later version Daytona or Sport.

It is not a common practice with ANY fuel injected bike. The early bikes had an external fuel pump and fuel filter. Both should have been bolted to opposite side of the spine as I recall (not sure...). The later bikes had the pump and filter inside the fuel tank. Running an fuel injected bike without a fuel filter would be a bad idea. The holes on the injectors are very small and it would not take much to clog them. And you gain nothing by doing so. It would not be faster or make more power.

I am not sure what he meant. It would be easy enough for someone with a set of those forks to measure them. To me, I do not want my forks canted out OR canted in. Doing either is wrong. The forks should be parallel to the steering axis. Otherwise it becomes less like a motor bike and more like one of the shopping carts with the wobbly wheel. Proper rake and trail is easy enough to achieve with no need for stupid shit like raking out or raking in the clamps. The shorter GSXR forks is a good/bad scenario. The shorter forks increase rake, which would normally decrease trail and decrease stability. But the decrease in offset adds trail back which counters the steeper rake and also allows the increased weight on the front to help. As long as you maintain enough trail I think overall the GSXR fork is a positive step.

Canting out the triples to get more rake is a horrible idea. Glad the wifes V11 does not have such issues. A GSXR front end will be shorter which means steeper rake, but it will also have substantially less offset which means more trail. The extra trail should help offset the steeper rake. As I have mentioned before, you can by extended forl caps for some GSXR front forks. I did not use them on my Daytona (I did not realize they only make them for some GSXR forks) and the steeper rake coupled with the increase in trail worked out really well. The bike steers excellent and does not need (or have) a steering damper. That is not to say that my Daytona is the same as your V11, but it may work out fine, still. I would try it and see.

I'm still here..... I don't have as much to say as I don't have to point out that HatchetWacker is wrong again. I much prefer the site now.

Sorry about the wrong dimension, my bad. Glad they can exchange them for you. Did you read the thread about the swap? It probably has some useful info (maybe without the numerical errors) for you if you are doing this as well. There have been a few people who have done this type of thing to their Guzzi, you are not alone. There is a wealth of aftermarket for GSXR's. I would look for a top clamp there before going for a custom clamp. Spend the extra money on a nice radial master cylinder for the stock GSXR discs and calipers. I went with an adjustable Brembo unit from Todd over at GuzziTech. He sold it to me for a fair price and it is nice to support a fellow Guzzi guy. Glad to hear you sent the forks to Stig. He is a great guy and has always done nice work for me. Let me know how it goes. Edit; I just went out and measured the steering stems I have laying around from my GSXR projects and they have a 30mm stem diameter where the bearings are. I hope your 28mm diameter is correct. Mine necks down to 28mm to go through the top clamp but where both bearings are it is 30mm. I have not played with a '09 version, though. '07 is as new as I have messed with.

Not what I would do but I like where you are going with the half fairing. I always like seeing people who are not afraid to take something and make it different.

Not an MGS sighting, but a shop over in Kenosha Wisc., Moto Rider, has several very cool Guzzi's on display amongst their collection. As I recall they had two Magni's and a bacon slicer on display. They also have more Bimoto's than I have seen outside of Barbers. However none are for sale as far as I know.

I normally agree with statements like "for $10 they were worth a shot". But not when it comes to brakes. Certain things, like brakes and tires, it does not pay to skimp on. Out of curiosity, do you know where they were made? The market is currently flooded with cheap Chinese made brake pads, often several brands are really the same Chinese pads. They change the labeling but not the pads. I can't see trying something like that, even if they were free. Bike parts and body parts are always expensive, no matter how cheap the brake pads were.

I do not run a steering damper on any of our four Guzzi's. The Daytona and V11 came from the factory with steering dampers. The one on the Daytona was removed by the original owner (a friend of mine) to make the bike handle better. The one on the V11 (the wifes bike) was removed because it took a dump and started to seriously mess up the way it handled. We took it off meaning to put a replacement on but my wife liked the way it handled better without the damper so we have left it that way. The bike was much lighter steering and felt much more sporting and responsive. Now, many years later, things are still fine with no steering damper. With the moderate geometry of a Guzzi I can't see why you would need one, other then you like the artificially heavy feel it can give the bike. If a Guzzi has actual stability issues there is something wrong with the bike. I have never rode a Guzzi that actually NEEDED a steering damper. I am not saying there isn't one, nor am I saying that anyone else should follow my lead. Everyone needs to decide for themselves. If you prefer the heavier steering that a steering damper provides then by all means work to mount one on the GSXR forks. The stock GSXR forks have a tab for the damper (at least the ones I used did but I cut it off) and I would think you could work something out with that. It may require a new mount for the damper to the frame. Or you could use the same damper and frame mount and get a bolt on fork tube mount (they sell them from racer supply houses) to move the damper mount on the forks to the correct location. I am sure you could work something up, but as I had no need to do that I am not really sure exactly what it will take. But I have faith that if you need to do it there is a way. The only question is do you need to do it.

Yes, except for the part about intake vacuum. The vent at the top of the frame connects to the airbox, not to the intake manifolds where there would be vacuum (that is how some cars have done it). The intent is merely to use the air filter to prevent dirt from getting into the system and for any oil mist that might make it through to either collect in the airbox or possibly get burned by the motor. But there should be no noticeable vacuum in your airbox or something is wrong. Your airbox will have low and high pressure pulses rippling through it, but unless something is wrong you should not have vacuum. And any vacuum you could create, like from putting in a one way valve, would pull not only on the crank case vent but also on the oil return line. I know that because I tried it and it suck oil from the case up the return line.

I thought I explained it here. I guess I was not adamant enough. Some Guzzi's had a check valve. The nature of a V11 breather system precludes it. Cali's and earlier Guzzi's are where you would be likely to find the check valve.

The V11 uses a crank case vent up to the frame behind the steering head. From there the oil separates out and drains back down into the bottom of the crank cases. The air vents out the top of the frame and runs to the airbox as I recall. If you put a one way valve on the crank case breather with that set up it would prevent air from being sucked in to the crank cases through the breather when the pistons rise. This could/would suck air through the vent at the bottom of the cases where the excess oil drains back to the cases from the frame. While I don't think that would be a really bad thing, it would prevent a one way valve at the crank case vent from really working as it should. It might also cause some foaming of the oil when said air bubbles up. But probably not enough to matter. But unless you had a one way valve in each of the two lines you could not generate real negative pressure in the crank cases (which is the purpose of the PCV valve) and if you did oil would not be able to drain back in. I have played with one way valves on my Daytona, which has a similar set up to the V11. I have not yet found the method I like best. But I think the older Guzzi's that have the one way valve don't share the return line where the oil that separates out from the breather drains back below the oil line in the cases. I am pretty sure that the V11 does not have a one way valve in its breather and positive my Daytona does not. I think that valve is for the older and touring style Guzzi's. I believe the Cali's of the same vintage as the V11 may have had the valve. But that last part is a guess.