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Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)

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Posts posted by Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)

    Finding TDC for valve adjustment

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    OR...

     

    remove alternator cover, there is a 24mm nut, use 24mm wrench to turn over the crank.

    Before doing this remove the plugs. You can also watch marks on flywheel - S for Sinistra (Left) D for Destra (right). Don't forger to check that the pistons are in compresion turn - in TDC the piston should be in its verytop. Check this by putting some soft wooden ply in the plug hole. Also check that the push rods are spinning free.

     

    Voila, you have the piston in TDC and you can adjust yout tappets. Doing the other side is just the same.

     

    Turning the nut in front of alternator seems to me bit more "profesional" and easier that turning the engine by moving the rear wheel, but of course, it is an option too!

     

     

    Good luck

     

     

    Slavek

    • Thanks 1

    Top end work, 1100 Sport

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    The picture Slav has indicates trouble with the lifter foot (the part that rides against the cam lobe). This pitting is the beginning of failure. When you see this it is time for a new cam and all lifters !

    Anyone who removes the lifters and does NOT reinstall them in the same bores will have failure for sure.

    By the way. This convex of the lifter foot is so small you can't see it.

     

     

    definatelly! With more than 100.000km on the clock I was aware of this, actually new lifters are ordered and some local shops asked with cam regrinding. Let's see the outcome. I believe that properlly renewed camshaft should work at least a year, consider it is a street-illegal bike.

     

    keep you posterd. Interesting thing is that the rocker arms are allright without any sign of damage.

     

    cheers

     

    Slavek

    CZ

    it was a long time...

    in 24/7 V11

    Posted

    so finally some progress, new gearbox installed (helical gears)

     

    gearboxfitted.jpg

     

    the tank has to be re-welded as the mounting bracket is damaged. Also some big load of gaskets, orings and all the stuff from Stein-Dinse is on the way.

     

    Meanwhile some photoshoping. Still not convienced about the fairing.

     

    workout.jpg

     

    workout2.jpg

     

     

    will keep you posted.

    How good are your brakes?

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I used OEM rotors with Brembo OEM pads and Acosato radial master pump, it worked on track without problem, with race pads it was even better.

     

    As somebody already mentioned above me, the feel from brakes is closely related to setup of your front suspension :thumbsup:

    low oil pressure at low revs

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    I yesterday removed the oil sump (again) and took off the the oil filter holder. I was hoping to find a broken gasket but all was fine. Dissembled the OPRV hoping to find something that kept the valve open, but all was clean. I had no means to test it so but it back together. Next I replaced the 4 o-rings to the oil cooler. they seemed a bit flat, and the new ones seemed to be more tight. I was hooping this would solve the problem.

     

    Since right now I couldn't find anything else, I was about to refit the filter holder. But first gave it a visual 'inspection'. By pure coincidence I noticed a rubber ring between the filter holder and the filter that appeared broken. Took the filter off and there it was: Half of the rubber ring of the old filter was still there, as you can see on the picture. I clearly hadn't checked or noticed it when replacing the old filter two weeks ago.

    Put it all together again, now also with recommended hose clamp on the filter. I only haven't tested the pressure jet, cause I still need to get the oil in the engine from a small bowl without making a mesh. But I'm quite sure the problem is found and fixed. If not, I'll let you know... Thanks

    duim.gif

     

     

     

    What t.. F...!! I did an inspection today, as a part of the anual winter check and maintenance round. Removed the oil sump, suspecting to find a hint or solution as to why my oil light came on under 2500 revs, when warm. No clues to find there.... Ah well, just spanner-along. And then when (trying) to remove the old oil filter...... Something odd took place.

     

    Normally the old oil filter, once a bit loosened, can be further unscrewed by hand. Not this time though. So unscrewing it further with the apropriate tool, the filter came off and reveilled a somewhat desintegreted rubber ring on the mating surface of the filter. Could this be the cause of the funny light saying oil in the dash?

     

    Ok, change filter with a new one. Carefully tighten it to the specified torque. Put back on the oil sump, fill with oil. Start. Rev some more... No funny light saying oil anymore in the dash!! Now, I realise that this half an hour (on the standard in the garage...) dry driving isn`t representative for normal use. But the oil was surely hot, and the oil cooler was more than handwarm too. And since the outcome of Vuzzi`s quest is more or less the same I`m pretty sure that I had a somewhat same problem: a faulty rubber o-ring on the oil filter.

     

     

     

    I had the same issue on my V11 - rubber ring on UFI oil filter was somehow old or ill - there were visible small bubbles in it once taken out. The oil pressure was close to 0,5 bar at idle revs. Once rpm rised it went to about 1 bar - not enough at all. I dismantled complete oil pan, spent hours on looking for the bug just to find that the rubber ring was broken.

     

    Careful on those things next time :)

     

    cheers

     

    Slavek

    Don´t know if you know ....

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    On Eicma, there were at least 10 companies producing spoke wheels on demand (all from China), I asked them if they are willing to adapt wheels for Guzzi. All of them said there is no problem of doing so.

    .....

     

    For more than 15 years now I am into business with south east asia. All chinese always say "No problem"* Actually, it means "No, problem!"

     

     

    *It is a matter of their culture of not loosing face ...

     

    I know, I was in China for a while... likely they will guide to wrong direction than not to "help" at all :grin:

    it was a long time...

    in 24/7 V11

    Posted

    I haven't run it, this is the Sport I bought from older Guzzista on ebay in Germany :doh: His symptomes were "bit louder 5th gear" :) Don't know what he has been running, he claimed that Guzzi was serviced on regular basis...

     

    But I don't blame him, he is one of the "technical type"...

    Thinking of changing the V11

    in 24/7 V11

    Posted

    I'm thinking of changing the V11, fancy something a bit more modern, the alternative is to go all out and cafe racer it.

    My V11 is the sport, 2001 in black with silver engine and red frame, about 17000miles, Its standard except for some optinal guzzi carbon fiber extras (front mudgaurd, dash mount and starter motor cover)and a small Givi screen. Its in good condition for its age, few marks on the tank and tail (black polish and you cant see them), paint on the frame under the seat is flaking and the angle drive for the speedo from the gearbox is starting to go as the needle does tend to vibrate, tyres have lots of life in them.

    Thinking about £3250.

    Whats peoples thoughts?

    Cheers

     

    Mark

     

    Keep the V11 and sell me the 1000s. That's what I would do.

     

     

     

    Yes, keep the V11 and sell the 1000S.... to me :grin:

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