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Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)

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Posts posted by Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)

  1. Hi Ketil!

     

    hm... Dvouval.com (dvouval means V-twin in slang and it is our page for twins only)

     

    It is correct, only 2 ScuraR were imported to Czech. One is sitting for years in Czech Guzzi dealer's shop and one is in personal collection.

     

    rare bike i guess :) Beautifull anyway.

     

    here you can read preview in czech

     

    as well as small error in xbox which caused noise up to 120db

     

    20100330130835-9054_jpg_resize_1000x830__type_jpg_.jpg

     

     

    regards from Czech!

     

     

    Slavek

  2. last friday I rode home to South Bohemia, stopped at gas station and noticed oil light on idle. Shut off the engine, cleaned up all the contacts, the oil sensor - no use. Light stayed on on idle and slowly dimmed in higher revs. No use. Towed the bike home in a van and started to dismount the oil pan and etc. Friend who is a Guzzi experienced mechanician helped me. Firstly we measured the pressure of the oil. ZERO on idle and 1 atm in 2500rpm. Hm. So we took down the oil pan and cleaned the valve that regulates oil pressure in the engine. It worked fine. Hm. After hours of playing, we took down the oil filter (UFI) and finally found, the rubber seal ring on top of filter was broken, closer inspection showed it has been rotten by some kind, the surface was porous.

     

    so filter was replaced and pressure is now 70 PSI on idle. Great!

     

    better watch those UFIs now :luigi::bbblll:

  3. I'd say that any modern sport tires will make good job on Guzzi! Try Sportec M3, not bad tire at all! And is not expensive, I have tried recently Bridgestone Battlax BT003. Excelent tires!

  4. I do remove entire kick stand for track days. There is no problem getting V11 on under-swingarm stand alone back in boxes

     

    I run Michelin Pilot Power 2CT for road and sometimes Pirelli Superbike slicks for track (+ warmers of course)

     

    :thumbsup:

  5. so, bike if finally charging, I mounted new aftermarket rectifier (VAPE). Old one was somehow toasted, charging but very low or not charging at all. Tacho is still offline, have to focus on this later.

     

    Strange things are going on in my harness :huh2: maybe, the end of the world is getting close

     

    thanks a lot Roy and Docc for all inspiring hints!

     

    Slavek

  6. We know for a fact that the regulator needs 12V from the headlight circuit to make it work.

    We also know that the tachometer also needs 12V from the headlight circuit.

    A few posts back you said you have 12V at the two pin connector, something doesn't add up.

     

    correct, headlight is connected, bulb is ok, as well as LH control. Tacho is dead. On both wires of the two pin connector I read 12V

     

     

    Is this the same joint I'm talking about?

     

    Yes. The two pin going from rectifier to harness

  7. So anyway, the '99-'02 SV650 fenda extenda doesn't fit much better than the Triumph part.

     

    Can Greg Field or anyone else w/ access to the parts catalogues for both Aprilia and Guzzi please chime in?

     

    I'm tired of these threads about "what fender extender fits?" and trying to adapt non-fitting parts from other bikes. If the Aprilia front fenders from the Tuono, Mille, Falco & Futura are xref'd w/ those of the Guzzi V11 Sports, Ballabio, LeMans, etc. to see if there's any part #s overlap, we may finally settle this once & for all. Knowing how Aprilia liked economies of scale from commonality, I'd be very surprised if there wasn't a shared front fender.

     

    If we can determine which Aprilia fender is used on the Guzzis, I'll be happy because it will be a no-brainer to then order a fenda extenda with some expectation that it will be right & slap it on! :luigi:

     

     

    for those having Ohlins forks, Aprilia RSV Mille 1000 front fender fits. I mean RSV with axially mounted brake calipers.

  8. I really appreciate your help Roy.

     

    Current problem is: no charge at all and not working tachometer. Headlight is working OK. Now I am running OEM rectifier and Yuasa battery.

     

    I have added external 30A fuse holder and new thick wire going directly from - pole to rectifier

     

     

    Slavek

  9. Sorry, I'm not going to read the whole thread again.

     

    You should also have 12V on the other wire, male pin, that comes back through the charge light, brush it quickly to ground and you should see the light come on

     

    Do you get a good AC voltage across the two yellow wires from alternator, I think it's 20 - 60 V depending on revs.

    Check the resistance from where the two reds plug in (Position 1) to the battery positive, should be very low

    If you have an Amps scale on your meter connect it in series with this cable, see sketch, Position 1

     

    If you don't have an amps range, is your meter digital with a mV range, do you have some 20 Amp wire of known size (cross section)?

     

     

    Roy! It seems we are getting somewhere :notworthy:

     

    so, on both black and white wires going from rectifier I can read 12V. When white wire brushed to ground, charge light goes on.

    from two yellow wires I can read up to 80V depending on revs

    resistance in point you've mentioned is 0,06 Ohms

     

    white wire from rectifier connects to blue in harness, should I focus on this one?

  10. The battery resistance is normally very low, that's how it's able to put out 100 amps to crank the engine (the starter is rated 120 Watts)

     

    If you see 13V with 0.1 Amp the battery must be nearly fully charged or so old the plates have fallen apart.

    The regulator will stop putting out current once it's reached the voltage setpoint, maybe yours is set at 13?

    Remember though there's about 9 amps going out of the battery when running, as the battery voltage drops

    the regulator has to pick that up

    Check and see you have 12V at the harness side of the double plug where the regulator plugs in (key on)

    the male pin comes from the charging light

    The female pin comes from the headlight relay

    Without 12 V on the female the regulator will not work (sorry I don't know the wire colours)

     

    The fact that the tacho is not working tells me the 12 V is missing,

     

    My bike is loosing it's tacho too at the moment, I thought I had found it when I found a loose relay 2 socket.

    Another possibility, perhaps it's broken where it flexes with steering.

    I will be sure to keep you posted, please do likewise.

    Roy

     

    ignition off, key on, oil light on, charging light off

     

    battery voltage 12,53V, between the wire you mentioned and chasis I measured 12,45V.

     

    Slavek

  11. Roy, Docc,

     

    could all this problem cause dead battery? When I send nominal current (0,1A) to it and measure voltage between poles, it shows some 13V+. If battery has high resistance, the charging circuit should not be able to give it any charge, am I right in my thoughts?

     

     

    Slavek

     

    (btw, only on battery, Guzzi can run roughly 20-30 rounds on 4,5km long circuit :race::)

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