gstallons

IF the turn signal lamps are not on or on dimly replace the flasher unit. if the turn signal lamps are on or on dimly you have a ground wire problem in the turn signal wiring circuit.

probably

Tryin' to help!

What does the owner/ seller have to say ?

Congratulations !!!!!! Now go spend about $300.00 & fix it. Price a new one or Google speedo repairs.

NNNOOOOO ! are you using a 6 point socket ? You should be able to use a 1/4" drive breaker bar & 6 pt. socket to break it loose.

docc, have you lubricated the speedo cable? You can pull the inner portion out (while watching for little washers that may or may not be there) and put Lubriplate engine assy. lube into the cavity and reinstall the cable. You cannot get too much grease in here. This should help. I wiped the cable down liberally with RedLine ShockProof. I do have some CRC engine assembly lube "with moly-graphite." You think maybe i should completely coat the cable with this? And, will it work on my ZUMO? Yes, put plenty on,in & at the cable. As for the Zumo, if you find a cable there, lube it.........

docc, have you lubricated the speedo cable? You can pull the inner portion out (while watching for little washers that may or may not be there) and put Lubriplate engine assy. lube into the cavity and reinstall the cable. You cannot get too much grease in here. This should help.

Yes - if all parts are in spec. But if spacer was short & brng outer races are home in the hub, torquing the axle would put a lateral load on inner races causing misalignment = knackered brng in short order. It would have the same affect at 120lbs. as 60lbs. of torque though.

Tightening the rear axle nut will just tighten things so much. This should not affect lateral load on the bearings.

Could you go into detail about the second to last sentence. The sentence with the MGS-01 in it...............

That type of problem is the result of a poor connection. Any time you have this you should repair/replace the connector and or component . Kiwi Roy pointed this out with terminal repairs.

You should look at your oil screen/ pick-up/oil sieve. This component is meant to keep out particles larger than the screen. ANY thing smaller goes in to the oil pump and throught the filter then to the lubrication system. The oil pump is the first to get any contamination and the influence from it. An oil pump with aluminum components is going to have accelerated wear. This will cause an oil pressure drop then things go to Hell quick. I would suggest a (stainless if there is) steel wool pad in the breather hose. This will keep this debris oult of the crankcase.

Sometimes you can gravity bleed. This means to remove the reservoir cap, back off the bleeder screw one turn and allow the fluid to siphon from the reservoir. DO keep the reservoir FULL while doing this. when you are satisfied the fluid has been exchanged, tighten the bleeder screw and fill the reservoir as needed.

All I se is a X ?

Lateral clearnce? How much? Can you buy machinery spacers/ shims or washers to adjust clearance?

Do you think you will leave your innovation(s) on the bike permenantly ?

Oh yeah.....

Not for a lefty.

I don't know if the fuel tanks can be repainted "properly" or maybe you can get a uesd tank. He can't use the exhaust so have him include them.

He was excommunicated a few months ago. He keeps with everything up as a guest....

I thought the baloney slicers came with CF slip-ons?

Traitor, I hope you don't sleep til you get a replacement......and I hope you stay on this site....

It's probably expen$ive....and not worth it.

It's about time, come on in the water's fine ! p.s. If you own a Mac or you're left-handed, this is your Valhalla.....