gstallons

Do you have a MG dealer near you?

There is no 1 stand that will do everything. Look at ALL options, think of the type of work you are capable (and wil be) of, then make your decision. I have a similar stand or jack to the one pictured and a MotoGuzzi stand. I think i like the Guzzi best. p.s. There are drawbacks to every one of them though.

Roy, Please consider the MotionPro tool. 08-0121 fork oil level tool. It is $23.99. Very cheap for perfection . I own one and would not part with it. http://www.motionpro...artno/08-0121/.

You can install a Quota,KLR,DR or similar object under your butt and it will be perfect.........

"Detritus" now I know what to call that stuff in my head.

Using a grinding head,cut through the inner ring it'll fall apart relatively easy I use a wooden dowel the size of the bearing to drive it in, about a half dollar invested for both As others have said the proper tool is best but I've heard that using a Rawl bolt to grip the inner race and then hitting it from the other side also works and is cheaper !! WTF is a Rawl bolt?

I have been mulling over your post, you say spring out, can you be a bit more specific please. I won't get a chance to do it again before my trip but will do over the winter for sure. Perhaps as a public service you could treat your Guzzi to an oil change and educate us all in the correct procedure. The workshop and the owners manual both say 400 mL of fork oil but I don't think they are specific about weight. Perhaps if I had used something like a lab measuring cylinder I would have been right on, of course I didn't have one handy, the best I could do was use the scale on the side of oil container, shone a flashlight thru to get the level. BTW, I don't expect to be leaping through the air so perhaps my settings are not as critical as a dirt bike I collected the oil I drained out and poured back into the container, came to about 600 mL so either some had leaked out over the years or the PO had them serviced. The oil I drained looked OK but the ATF will match my K&N air filters at least when it leaks. Cheers Roy Roy, I am using 125/150 GoldenSpectro Cartridge fork oil @120mm from the top of the (collapsed/no spring) fork tube. you really need to do this after a disassembly. Search this site for fork spring replacement or fork rebuild for help. If you need an exploded view of the forks we can provide them. The ? you can answer is: Do you feel up to it? I am not being terse but you are the only one who knows that. This is easy the 2nd,3rd,4th &more times you do it. After misreading the instructions & adding almost a qt. to each fork leg I know.

Roy, Purchase a tool from MotionPro to adjust the fluid level (for now) in eack fork leg. When it gets winter,remove the forks,disassemble them and get the ATF out & install a cartridge fork oil. Read Buzzard's post and memorize it. When you do put the forks together you can replenish with the correct wt. &volume of fluid. BTW, aTF was the hot set-up in 1970 but things have changed in 40 yrs...........

You take the Dremel tool and put it between your feet while sitting in front of your computer.Then you get online & order the Posse wheel bearing tool.

No....the paint is a good idea. I don't like many things falling off my bike.

If you feel the need to, use Loctite blue & clean the threads on the screw and hole before installing.

What did you use to "clean" the caliper ? Do NOT use any type or kind of petroleum product around any brake parts. Take one of the pads with you. As far a torque value, do you have a torque wrench? I would say 25-30 ft.lbs. ? Or you could see how much effort it takes to break the other fastener loose.

If you have enough $$ you can do anything...............

FWIW..... a fully charged and stable 12v battery should read 12.65v. at rest.

I wish I had something good to say..Since I don't: you had some dumbf**ks working on your bike that should have had midevial torture performed on them, the dealer that f**ked you over should be burned at the stake, the importer should be fed to the alligators and Guzzi should replace your bike.

Let's do this when snow is on the ground.........

I never cared for the Centauro, BUT this bike is HOT.... Is that the factory Centauro tank?

Practice makes perfect........Repetition makes me ill.

I would suggest Lubriplate (brand) white grease.........

You see what water-cooling did for Harley-Davidson..........

IMHO better tool control is precisely what Torx is about. Provided you do have a Torx tool of course, and not try using a hex drive that almost fits. None of my Torx T-20 would clear the bottom of the tank. I built a tool for it, but it was fiddly. I learned from someone here on the forum to install simple hex drive fasteners that take a normal ninety degree 3mm Allen key which makes the tightening process much less fiddly for me. Certainly, the capture, or "bite", is much reliable with the Torx. With the exception that the original fasteners for the TPS were quite shallow, as I recall. So many "mapping" issues are inter-related to "tuning" issues. One of the conundra of the FI is the way you can compensate, overcome, or otherwise cover up some shortcoming by tweaking, or cheating, or 'tuning' some other sensor, input, or the map itself. Good, though, I think; better than wire drilling jets and clipping advance springs! You can purchase a Tox bit that has a 1/4" shank. You can use a 1/4" wrench to loosen n tighten the screws with. Send me your address n I will mail you one . If you can't wait go to an auto parts store or sears and get one..........

Is this a "taken today" photo?

It's called the "Expanding Universe" theory. Your tank is expanding & there's not much you can do.

Are you Jason Britton ?

maybe we have Stockholm Syndrome?