gstallons

Send them to my address and I will tell you how they fit.

!

I can't look at the bike long enough to tell the make?!

Please inspect the wiring harness and connectors first.

Fortunately there are some that long. They are a treat!!!!!!!!!1

The only fluids you want in (or on for that matter)a brake or clutch hudraulic system is brake fluid. In an emergency you can use water. but this JUST to get you where you can service the hydraulic system. NEVER use any petroleum product in,on or around these rubber parts. If you would like to see what happens put brake rubber parts in gasoline overnight. If you are servicing these parts wash them with Brake-Kleen or products for use on brake parts. Since the clutch hydraulic system is basically one half of a brake caliper, treat it as a brake system. As far as I know DOT 4 and 5 fluid has a blue dye to distinguish it from DOT 3 . It has been said on this forum not to mix DOT and silicone fluid. It is not compatible? The easiest way to bleed the clutch (if you do not have enough tools and octupus arms) is to remove the rear wheel to gain access to the bleeder screw. You are only going to do this once anyway. you can find a long section of vacuum hose to go over the bleeder screw (after removing the dust cap) and then put the other end in an almost full clear bottle of brake fluid. you can either gravity bleed like me or slowly work the clutch lever until the fluid needs to be added to the reservoir. Do this tli you are satisfied the old fluid is gone.Tighten the bleeder screw ,then replace lost fluid, install the cover and work the clutch to see that it works properly. After you are satisfied it is OK then you can install the rear wheel. If you need more help call me... 270-335-5374

Chapparall is about as good as any!

"Whoop-diddy-doooo"!!!!!!!!! * I hope you got custody, if not, she has your heart by the balls 'til their old enough to leave. * The Wedding Singer

Can you show us pics of the Mavic wheels?

Don't those "vikings" know how to use a depthfinder?

Don't use the clutch ( I assume you know how) when you shift gears to see if you get the same noise. I have ridden my bike w/out ear plugs or helmet and the drivetrain makes more noise than the family H Farmall tractor. UGH! I thought about pushing it home. I guess I'll run it till this winter and dismantle it when I paint the engine block krinkle-black instead of the cooked roofing tar finish .

A 6pack on the right ? Udderly incredible!!!!!!!!!!

Put a CF bikini fairing on it and let er' go.... the fuel tank's beauty is exposed and it looks (lighter) better!

Thank you

Italian firms ues the suffix at the end of their names " S.r.l. or S.p.a." . Is this something similar to Inc. or Ltd.? Just curious!

I don't want to sound loke a "smart-alec" but have you checked the TPS with a DVOM (digital meter) to see if it is bad?

Are you using a dyno to arrive at these "hp" figures?

Joe sold the Greenie last month to a guy who was going to put it "in his living room" to admire. That was what Joe reported.....

I am pretty sure Eish Enterprises in Salineville,Ohio is (or was) a dealer for G/B motorcycles. 330-738-3944 is the #. Let it ring, Joe is around 78 yrs young and is not in a big hurry! He is a pleasure to talk to so take your time!!!!!!!

If you have BALLS you can remove the solenoid end cap. Any work needed in the solenoid will be cleaning the contacts and contact disc. The end of the solenoid (should be) is crimped or rolled. You can take a die grinder and notch in four equal spots to where you can pry this roll back to remove the plastic end cap. Then inspect the contacts and disc. Buff these items with a "Roloc" disc and reinstall using a smear of silicone sealant. Tap the crimped area back in place (I don't remember if this end cap is indexed or not) and make sure it is not loose. The only thing to maintain inside the starting motor are the brushes,commutator, bushings and lever. Euromoto (I think) advertises in the MGNOC newsletter can help with parts. HTH!

Unless you KNOW what you are doing, pulling the starter and "looking at it" will do you no good. Tske the starter to a reputable rebuilder,explain the symptoms and ask for help.

Sounds like a god deal.If you can get a member to look at it with you they will know to look at or for. What do you currently ride? Be forewarned these are addictive and love attention...Don't let $500 keep you.... I missed the dream of dreams because I stumbled over $500

BUY the factory stand. One lift with one and you will be hooked. If you have ever watched a bike fall over it happens REALLLLLLLLLLLL slow. The farther away you are standing and the slower it falls. Just say "timberrrrr" when it falls.

A PowerCommander (or something like it) is what any fuel injected GUZZI needs. These are set-up lean and will not run as good as they are capable without this modification. I found a seller/service center who dialed my bike IN ! The best money you could ever spend.

Rear tire - some like the smaller rim/tire for better handling. Look through ALL threads before staying with or getting a larger rim/tire combination. Clutch hydraulic fluid- this is best serviced with the rear wheel removed. You can also grease all three driveshaft fittings. I don't remember who had the best device. It is a 18" long pipe with a 55 degree (torch assisted ) bend at the end of the pipe. You wll see by the illustrations. Use a synthetic DOT 4 fluid. It is not hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and is compatable with DOT 3 fluid. Also grease the splines where the wheel goes on the rear hub.