gstallons

I forgot to mention, when working on ANY hydraulic brake parts DO NOT use any petroleum products on any rubber parts or honing bores or anything whatsoever. If you do this you risk getting petroleum on the rubber parts and BAD things happen!

Send me your ph # privately and I'll call you and walk you through it.

Nice guy!

I assume you are replacing the terminal at the end of thespark plug wire? It should read 2-10k resistance after you repair it. If not replace the wire. Clean thie cavity TOTALLY where the plug wire plugs into the coil. Check the resistance of the secondary(ign.coil) side compared to the other coil. If you are not sure (check the price first) buy another coil. You would not want this to break down on the road?

Not to be a smart**s but what procedure did you use? The foolproof method I use is to gravity bleed. Open the bleed screw and let the fluid run all over the floor occasionally refilling the m/c reservior. Leave the lever ALONE. Close the bleeder when you have wasted enough fluid. Try it after closing the bleeder screw and covering the reservior. Work the lever a few times before condemning your work. p.s. it should be fine.

"bodge point" what is that?

Is that a "factory" sticker from a British bike?

I own a factory stand. Added a third wheel without bending the handle any. I also see no way this can fall installed properly and then shaking (the bike) it to make sure it is steady.

Same here! 1/8 to 1/4 throttle and it is running.

And the K1 looked like Venus de Milos compared to the Vincent Black Prince. Where do these guys get off designing this mess? You wold think they would get an outside opinion before throwing money and their reputation as designers off the cliff! p.s. As progressive as BMW prides themselves on cutting edge technology,design,etc. I have seen only one new bike I would want in my posession, the F800. The rest looks like someone was pi**ed off and wanted to sell the ugliest designs possible to the Co.

There is no choke mechanism, the lever you are moving is a fast idle lever only. The ambient air temp sensor and cyl. head temp. sensor affect fuel trim the most on cold start. Does your bike have a PowerCommander or similar device on the bike? If so , you should have it "remapped" to take care of this problem. If you do not have an aftermarket PC on the bike, then get one and have it mapped for the bike with mods. done or accessories added.

"Personal" lubricant?

I would change it before putting it up for the winter. Any acids or foriegn matter will be down the drain and not settilng in your bike's oil pan. Don't forget to use Sta-bil or similar in the fuel system too.

What kind of brackets for what kind of bike? never mind, your problem sounded familiar. Deja vu all over again !

This came from the latest issue October 2008 pg.4. Jack L.Thomas. The article never said the stand fell off. The problem was clearance when making a l.h. turn. This notice I sent out was a caveat not an edict. If I owned a Norge I would go and look at it to see if I would want to chance this from happening. Contact J.Thomas and ask his advice.

After I posted all that exercise I remembered (lying in bed) that I left out the clutch switch test. "Pay no attention to the man behind that curtain"! * * The Wizard of Oz

If anty of you own a Norge or know someone who does, you need to remove it NOW. I have heard of them dragging on l.h. turns. After reading my MGNOC newsletter that thing would be coming OFF! A member wrote in where he had a wreck from the centerstand catching or digging into the pavement and causing a bad wreck. The dealer did not install a shorter bumper on the stand with some new mods. The dealer went out of business and the owner went to the hospital. I would recommend removing the centerstand completely. I have had some parking lot thrills with sidestands and I can't imagine a 50 mph pole vault like this...

Before you start, do you own and can you use a test light? If you answered yes to both ?s good. #1 is the neutral light on?If not check the neutral switch on the shift cover on the trans. If is on, touch the test light to the small wire on the starter and push the start button. If the light is off the problem is with the start wiring circuit. If the light is on the problem is elsewhere. #2 touch the test light to the battery cable at the starter solenoid.It should be on at all times. If you hear a click ( the solenoid functioning),touch the test light to the other large terminal at the solenoid. If it does not light the problem is in the solenoid. If it does light the problem is in the starter. p.s. I hope you have a magnifying glass and your owners manual to look at the wiring diagram.

What type of grease are you all using on these pucks? Is there any long term affect on the rubber?

When you consider how critical fuel pressure and volume are you will understand why you are going to replace the filter. The filter is in the tank on the fuel pump module. I don'tknow if the filter is the same part # for internal or external part. I would change this every other year and cut the old filter in half and examine the filter media to justify why you are doing this.

You will not be able to "see" a result as you clean,just spray and work the stem in and out while you are spraying the cleaner.

Attractive.......No! But I would like to look at it up close. I think a person would want to look at it and ask the builder about his interpretaion of his design and lines of the bike.

Disconnect the wire at the neutral switch, turn the key on, ground the wire to a good ground and look to see if the light is "on". It should be. If so, remove the switch, and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. DO remember to plug the hole where the switch was or you will have gearbox oil running out .

Check for .010" or .25mm air gap between the roller and fast idle cam with no "choke" . Since this is just a fast idle it does not enrichen anything. look to se if the idle increases with the lever pushed "full on". If it doesn't, start looking. p.s. I use this only when I start the bike and get off to do something like putting on riding gear.

Same here. Always 1/8 to 1/4 throttle to start.