gstallons

smarta$$

I do solemnly swear to never mention him again !

I did brush my teeth after looking at the album cover.......

OMG . I used to have to listen to this enlightened idiot that used to tell the margarine/submarine lubricant story all the time. He was the only one of us that was "in the know" and we were a bunch of banjo playin' hillbillies .

The oil light concern is to verify the status of the circuit. Disconnect the oil press. switch wire and touch it to a good ground . With the KOEO the light should come on. If it does that is good and the other side of the gen. , oil light & low fuel light circuit is good. You make dann certain you are making good connections when you are testing for B+ and B- on anything. Use a good test light with a conventional bulb. As in NO LED bulb. There is a reason. The battery V has to do with the fact if it is AGM or lead/acid or a gel-cell battery. An AGM fully charged battery has around 12.8v and a lead acid has 12.65v.

And ? Charging ? Using the wiring diagram I think is for your bike , your blue wire goes from the regulator to the gen dash light and is tied into the oil press. , low fuel lights and then into the tach + terminal . Correct ? BTW , does your oil light work correctly ?

It is sad to see what these bikes sell for. you try to sell and no one wants them even though you poured plenty into them. Not unlike a Mary Kay Cadillac.

SamP , please understand we do want you and your bike HAPPY. Giving opinions is easy and giving the correct advice is difficult. After this is finished , you will be able to give a clinic on charging systems and have a great understanding or misunderstanding of electrical components.

Well , did it looking at the album cover...

I hate to tell you , you were not the only boy that "did it" with this album. Trivia. Did you know this girl was VERY pregnant at the time of this pic ?

Did you increase the RPM after you started it ? I worked on a BMW car WAY longer than I wanted. No charge. I replaced the battery, alternator twice . After doing a WHOLE lot of work , testing and replacing , NO charge. For some stupid reason I blipped the throttle and the rest is history. Do make sure all ringlets are on the battery + and -. Make sure F3 has 12v (I think I said F4 earlier but I am wrong. This circuit goes from the b+ side of the battery to F3 and then to the regulator.

If you ran in a perfect 70deg.+ temp you could get by. But then you would have to find a new "concern".

Check fuse 4 to see if 12v is at both sides of the fuse (this will give a good indication the ring terminal is attached to the battery and then check for V at the regulator. You're on your own AFA the correct color. This won't be the first time a disconnected ring terminal has been a problem !

The light (I think) cannot be responsible for the problem but it is best to know for sure.

I hope on this forum (somewhere) Kiwi_Roy had a schematic of the Ducati Energia VR (dated 11-19-2020). This diagram is on this thread and the V11sport schematic (also Ducati Energia dated 06-02-2020) .These are not the same. I had these printed off and put in a binder. These two regulators have different internal circuitry. Also there is diagram and test procedure (V11Ducati regulator problems. This diagram shows two red wires joined together , two yellow wires and a white wire and a black wire coming from the regulator.

Zinc is considered to be an anti-wear agent. IDK why it has been weaned from oil but it has.

My apologies , the MOSFET Q3 turns the charge light on. When the voltage is satisfied , Q3 turns off and light goes off. forginve my ramblings about difference of potential . This is from a long time ago.

Answer these questions. Do you have the bike's owner's manual? It contains a foldout that is for the bikes wiring diagram. An optional wiring diagram shows the charge light diagram going straight from the regulator to the light and straight to the battery. Some V regulators have a 5 wire regulator and some have a 6 wire regulator. Did this bike have this problem when you bought it ? Were new parts on the bike when you bought it ? Did you install these parts trying to fix this condition? With the KOEO ( key on engine off) is the charge light on? When you start the bike what is the condition of the light ? What is the V reading at idle ? What is the reading at 1500 rpm ? What is the reading at 3,000 rpm ? What is the reading at 4,000 rpm ? At what rpm does the light (if ever) come on ? I am working my a$$ off trying to decide how to figure out what advice to give you. There are two (or more) styles of wiring diagrams for these bikes.

That is possible on this system. You would have to remove the bulb to be sure about this. VW Beetles would do the same way if the bulb were not good.

Uh , SamP states "26v @ 3-5k RPM" . I think this would be considered overcharge? Unless this is a 26v system. This is why I want SamP to deal with the two wire plug. Disconnect the plug, disconnect the battery positive and apply 12v to the two wires B+ to one wire and B- to the other wire of the two wire plug and see if the light comes on.

Reread my post about difference of potential. I am trying to get the original poster to check the integrity of the charge lamp circuit. I want to know why the light is not on w/KOEO , KOER but comes on when the alternator is producing an overcharge situation. According to Kiwi_Roy if the integrity of this circuit is not good or if the regulator is not grounded perfectly , the charging system will overcharge.

Do what ?

Keep it simple. The charge light just happens to have two "positives" . One on each side. When there is a difference of potential , the "charge" light comes on. e.g. KOEO. You start the bike and the charging system is working so both sides have the same V and the light is off. You increase the RPM to 4k? and the charge light is on because the alternator is producing an insane V . 24v as compared to 12v on the battery. The light is going to come on because of the difference of potential. It is not undercharging but overcharging . One sentence in all of Kiwi_Roy's info stated "if there is not a good circuit involving the charge light , you will have an overcharge situation. That is why I want you to research the charge light and the circuit. It bothers me the light will not come on KOEO or KOER but will come on after the high RPMs. This is an overcharge situation instead of an udercharge situation.

It is from Ford service information= KOEO or KOER. Key on Engine Off or Key On Engine Running

Sam , according to your post , after replacement........... So , this problem existed before you replaced everything. No light w/ KOEO, light on at high RPMs and overcharging. The problem is going to be with the charge light circuit. Since the light does not come on KOEO , With the KOEO , disconnect the connector w/the black wire and white wire. First use a test light and ground the white wire of the engine harness and see if the light comes on. If not use a jumper wire to see if the light comes on. If it still does not come on the problem exists in this circuit.