Bob Maynard

McMaster.com has unthreaded stainless or aluminum M10 spacers, but od is 16mm. Might not be hard to take a mm off aluminum, even without a lathe.

I installed a set of Verlicchi Touring clipons that I found on eBay, similar to Convertibars but have the MG eagle engraved on them. They’re very comfortable with the fork brackets turned back to near the tank and the bars raised to limits of cabling. I also installed the Buell pegs and probably will take them off. I liked the inch drop but I dislike working the shifter pigeon toed. Here’s another bar option: https://spieglerusa.com/controls/handlebar-conversion/handlebar-conversion-kit-4317.html Oops, left out LeMans when searching Spiegler. Never mind.

Many years ago, a leak around the shift shaft was one of the things that stopped me from buying a nice greenie. Which I regret to this day. Don’t know how common it really is.

Thanks for the link Jorgen. I’ve read the posts stating ‘sounds normal’ and watched a couple of videos where the V11 sounds just like mine, so I’ve decided to live with it and get on to the normal maintenance this bike needs. And hoping Andy replies to post above. Bob

Okay Andy, I’ve got to ask, was your FJ ever hit by a dog driving a pickup truck?

Still have the passenger rearsets? Is that the bracket and pegs or just the pegs? BTW, I bought the seat from you.

Well, I emailed (thru their websites) both Aprilia Customer Care and Moto Guzzi Customer Care and MG Customer Care responded: “Thank you for reaching out to Piaggio Group Americas, Inc. – Moto Guzzi Customer Care with your question about any open recalls on your bike. When checking in our system this VIN has no open campaigns. Now this bike appears to be a 2001 model and Piaggio did not own Moto Guzzi until 2004. When looking I do see that a flexible coupling hose was replaced back in March of 2004. “ That’s reassuring, and if you’d like to know the contact information for this person, I’d be glad to pm or email that to you. I’m hesitant to just publish that. It’s best to use their website, and I did mention my concern about a rear wheel lockup when I filled out the form.

What I did was to call Aprillia USA Customer Care and give the man my vin. He quickly replied that there were no recalls on my bike. This was after the onset of the covid 19 outbreak, and I had doubts that the check was thorough. I’ve since filled out the ‘request for recall information’ form on their website, I’m now waiting for a reply. I’ll feel better having a record of my request and their reply. As far as checking vin vs the recall pdf, are the last six digits what identifies recall status, and where can I find the date of manufacture on the bike? Another thing, flicking the clutch lever when the engine is hot after riding does not reduce the tapping noise, it’s louder and constant, unless the lever is pulled in and held in, which quiets it down. Is that consistent with clutch chatter? Thanks again for the previous replies, btw, I’ve now found the exhaust leaks at the Ti cans. I don’t like the angle they’re mounted at, does anybody have the longer passenger footpeg brackets available? Or their measurements?

I’d like to thank all that replied, the noise I’m hearing does appear to go away after a couple of quick clutch lever “flicks”. It’s hard to tell if it quiets down when increasing revs slightly as overall clatter, exhaust tone, and my poor hearing discrimination blend all together. Thanks for reducing my anxiety level down to near normal. Now to go for a ride, it’s 70f and sunny.

Thank you Phil and docc !!! I’ll wheel it out tomorrow and check the clatter at higher revs.

One of the first things I did, then called Aprillia NA customer service, was told there were no applicable recalls on this bike. Printed out your pdf just in case, and I may email my request just to have response recorded. Thanks.

Yes, the tapping changes (lessens or disappears) but sometimes it takes several dis-reengage cycles to lessen the noise, which then comes back after revving up to about 3k a couple of times. The noise also varies in intensity. First time I noticed it I thought it was just a loose valve tapping, other times since then it gets fairly loud. The stethoscope shows tapping loudest on case area below speedometer drive, but I can hear it quieter on other side of transmission. Cannot hear it at back of block ahead of flywheel. Tachometer shows 750 rpm. It’s been my intention to do a ‘decent tune up’ this spring, but covid, cold weather(snow in May?) and tapping noise delayed that. Hopefully the software will show how accurate that gauge is.

https://www.facebook.com/bob.may.31521/timeline?lst=100005260004144%3A100005260004144%3A1589428330 Here’s a video, a Little amplified by my phone. Inspection plug in or out makes no difference, tapping is primarily coming from case below Speedo drive. It also barks like a Doberman every now and then.

My 2001 V11 trans has started ticking or tapping, somewhat intermittently. Stethoscope probe shows sound coming from right side of trans. Varies slightly with clutch engagement/ disengagement, and does not seem to be coming from clutch/flywheel area. Draining the oil did not show anything terrible yet. Would I be correct in assuming this is most likely the flexible hose coupling and dog sliders, confirming what Aprillia says that no recall work has been performed on this bike. Could it be the speedometer drive? More importantly, I’d appreciate any diagnostic tips and tips on removing the trans. Any recommendations for trustworthy repair shops. My most convenient shop is Cadre Cycle down in Cincinnati, I could carry the trans there on the back of my FJR eliminating shipping. Any experience with them? Thanks, Bob

I think the seat I used had been cut, lowered and gelled, with soft appearance foam filling out the cover. I removed the 1/2” gel pad and cut the remaining stock foam below it. I left stock foam filling the pan depression because the seat pan is far from flat. I cut 1” Sunmate to fit in the hole where the gel was and a slightly larger piece of 1/2” over to cover the seams. Still managed to pull the cover back over all that, even with the appearance foam in place. I like the medium firm foam, as it conforms to my posterior after a few minutes, or less if sitting in the sun. The firm needs to be sanded/ contoured to shape for a base layer. I’ve never used med soft or softer, I found the firm/ med firm combination great when shaped properly, sort of a good Corbin. The soft or medium soft might work well for a comfort layer over a firmer layer. https://www.sunmatecushions.com/pages/motorcycle-seat-retrofitting-with-impact-absorbing-foam-applications They do sell a sample pack of different foams cut 4”x4”so you can get an idea of what might work,and offer good advice over the phone. My experience is that firmer is usually better. And I always keep my stock seat, and work on a second, in case of failure. Also, check out their overstock page.

Well, I’m not an iron butt, for sure. Longest day ride was just over 600 miles on a rock hard Corbin equipped FJ1200 back around the turn of the century. I proudly proclaimed the title of candy butt after that. I never joined candybutt org, not even sure if the website still exists (relating to motorcycles), although occasionally there are links to it on an FJR forum. Did find it : https://candybuttorg.ipage.com/cba/node Anyway, my mod to the previously modded seat came out really well, but I’ll need a longer ride to really test it out, probably after lockdown is lifted.

I opened up a used seat I bought from MaxV11, removed the gel pad, and inserted two sheets of Sunmate medium firm and brought much comfort to my posterior. Cradles my candy butt wonderfully. Much better than my stock seat, comfort without slip sliding away.

I’ve been reading also, and thanks for the inspiration. Years ago, I saw welding classes offered locally and wished I had time for them. Now retired, I have time as long as civilization doesn’t collapse before virus clears. Nice weathervane!

That makes sense to me, if front is perpendicular and rear tire contact patch is in line with front contact patch, the rear should also be perpendicular. Providing you can get good places on tire edges to check whether perpendicular and neither wheel is bent. After all, I assume you’re just looking for major misalignment. A fair amount of motorcycles come from the factory tweaked a tiny bit.

With other bikes, I’ve used a long straight edge (5-6 ft angle iron or wood) carefully placed along the sides of the rear tire and then checking distance between the straight edge and front tire, then compared with the same process on the other side of bike. Just a variation of the string alignment method, might give an idea of any major steering head tweak. Never tried it on my Sport, so I don’t know if there’s anything blocking (exhaust, etc) from actually doing this. Hope you recover quickly from whatever it is that ails you.

Fine, no hurry. I just want to finish cleaning up PO’s license plate mod.

I’ll take it. PM me what shipping cost to 44281, Wadsworth Ohio and your PayPal info is. Any chance you have a stock taillight? Thanks Bob

2002 LeMans in Ann Arbor. https://annarbor.craigslist.org/mcy/d/saline-moto-guzzi-lemans/7081437842.html They might not sell to an OSU fan, just guessing. On the other hand, it is sorta scarlet and gray. Might be reason for sale.

Thank you Scud! Springs arrived today. Look very nice. Much appreciation for your efforts. Now if you would ship some summer winds to my garage I’d be able to install one. Bob

Payment sent for two springs, hope they end up rusting away in the toolkit, never needing to be used. Thanks for going to the trouble, it is appreciated. Bob