Kiwi_Roy

I'm pretty sure the ESR515 is a direct replacement for the OEM Ducati Energia So it will be effected by the same wiring issues. You might as well get a Ducati Energia If you blew the fuse on the OEM I think the light would still work because the sensing black wire is separate i.e. the black wire provides the power for electronics from the headlight circuit. If however the headlight fuse blew, you would never know for 2 reasons 1) the 12V for the lamp is missing 2) there is no power to fire the transistor If you really want to monitor the charging, get a Voltmeter like my old Cali II has.

In the description they describe it as a "Designed for direct connection to the battery to bypass potential wiring harness issues" If you go plug and play, you keep the old issues. Since I reverse engineered one I thought these are a well designed unit, it's the flakey wiring that destroys them. If any-ones curious do this little test - record the results 1) Take your multimeter and measure the Voltage from battery + to the regulators black wire with the key on 2) If you have a separate light switch turn it on and take the same reading 3) Turn the key OFF, pull the first two relays Start and headlight, put them back in again. 4) Do 1 & 2 again The results are more telling if your relays haven't been disturbed in a long while. If I were to buy another of these I would be tempted to provide the black reference wire with a dedicated relay thus avoiding the flakey headlight circuit. The ones I have are all set at 13.8 Volts, ~ 14.3 when you factor in the Voltage drop from battery to the measuring point. I wonder if they are allowing for it also in their 14.2 setting. I have a fairly new one on my EV, I will check it out.

The ECUs are quite reliable, I think it is not getting 12 Volts Relay 4 sends 12 Volts to the ECU The ECU turns ON relay 5 to run the pump The relay bases look something like this ------ 30 contact, this should be alive (12 Volts) at all times ------ 87 contact, this becomes alive when the relay coil gets power | | | The 2 smaller outside pins are for the coil, the middle one is 87A (not used) If you remove relay No 4 you should see Voltage between the 2 coil pins when the key is ON If you don't try each pin to the chassis (ground / frame) Although you don't have an electric petcock you probably still have a fuse for it, Fuse No 8 on my bike, this should have 12 Volts on it when the bike is ready to run. Between the petcock fuse and relay No 4 there is a single way connector, check it's plugged in. I think the ECU negative is a small wire connected to the battery negative terminal, look closely at the battery and make sure all the wires are connected. I sent you a message.

I think the biggest downfall of the Ducati Energia regulators is the way they measure the Voltage not at the battery but after the headlight relay (after the start relay and the headlight relay on some like my 2001). At this point the Voltage is about 1/2 Volt lower than the battery so to satisfy the regulator setting of 13.8 Volts the battery has to reach 13.8 + 0.5 or 14.3 Volts If the relay pins become a bit corroded or you replace the headlamp with a higher Wattage unit the battery Voltage is pushed even higher. Since charging current v/s charging Voltage is sort of an exponential curve it doesn't take much to push the regulator too far causing the leads to melt a lead off one of the internal diodes effectively cutting the charge capability in half. I believe they sense the Voltage after the headlight relay is because the regulator electronics draws 15 mA which would quite quickly flatten the battery if left on the headlight relay removes power when the key is off. I think using a separate relay Battery + to the black wire would solve this overcharging problem but then the battery Voltage would drop to 13.8 without the benefit of Voltage drop . Actually adding headlight relays powered direct from the battery effectively does this, without the headlight current passing through the circuit the Voltage drop disappears so the battery will charge to about 1/2 Volt less. (there is a simple way to compensate for the lower Voltage i.e. make the regulator adjustable) Another way to cure this problem is to fit a later or after market direct connected regulator. They draw a constant current from the battery even when the bike is off but with modern components it's a lot lower (13.8 mA in the case of Electrosport's ESR510 BTW, don't try to run the bike with the headlight relay pulled or the fuse out to save power because the battery will not be charging.

Ok, ok, I tried mine the light goes out if I pull the fuse with the key on, The red wire supplies the Voltage the regulator needs to work and turn the transistor on to short the light to ground. Im sure Electrosport missed the ignition switch in their diagram (between battery+ and the light) I also measured the current the regulator draws even with the key OFF 3.8 milliamps So it will flatten a 15 AH battery in 15 / 0.0038 hours or 164 days of course if the battery is only half charges to begin with 80 days So pull the fuse over winter

I think adding a ground from rectifier to battery is a bad idea, there is one there already run through the main loom, If the main battery ground works loose this little wire tries to return the starting current, gets red hot and shorts the loom to ground, If you are lucky the bike doesn't catch fire. Grounding the regulator to the engine is a more direct route, the mass of aluminum is a much better conductor than any copper wire, then it travels up the main ground to the battery, If the main ground works loose nothing happens because there is no return path. I see no point in disconnecting the regulator it has diodes in the red wire that are rated over 400 Volts.

Yes a better ground is vital, on mine it's bolted to the horn bracket which in turn is bolted to the chassis. None of the bolt holes are cleaned of paint or greased to prevent rust. The little wimpy wire that goes back to the battery has too much Voltage drop and in fact it's a liability, more than one guzzi I know has gone up in smoke when the main battery ground worked loose forcing the start current to find an alternate path thru this wire. The connection to ground carries the same current as the red wire as it makes it's way back to the alternator. Any Voltage lost in the ground connection is lost to the battery as the regulator senses the Voltage between the black wire and the reg case 13.8 Volts Shall I go on?

It shouldn't come on unless the key is ON OOPPS, have they changed the schematic, shouldn't it show the ignition switch between lamp and battery + They added a note about it on LH side of fitting instructions I think it will still be ok with the Charge Warning Light switched by original wiring.

As Hubert says, it's important to know if the pump primes for 2 seconds when you turn the key ON Answer that and we can zero in a bit more.

Hubert Perhaps spikes was the wrong term to use, I used pulses earlier. 14 x every revolution the Voltage starts at zero, when it reaches about 13 Volts the current goes from zero and increases rapidly to form a sine wave so you end up with a lot of half wave pulses joined by flat spots. To get an average equaling the alternator output the sine wave peaks have to be much higher to fill in the valleys as it were. Heat is equal to the current squared x resistance Example, suppose your fuse base has 0.1 Ohms resistance. 5A x 5 x 0.1 Ohm is 2.5 Watts of heat 10 x 10 x 0.1 = 10 Watts of heat or 4 x as much for double the current 40 x 40 x 0.1 = 160 Watts of heat The effect of heat is accumulative, the joint will get worse and worse until most of the alternators power is being dissipated in heat. A bad joint also places more stress on the alternator as many a Goldwing owner will tell you. Take a look at the pictures in posts 16 & 28 and tell me how many Watts it took to do that

Ok so we know the light works so it should work with either regulator. The OEM Ducati Energia needs 12 Volts on the Black wire, this turns on the transistor that shorts the white wire to the chassis. It goes without saying the regulator case must also be connected to the chassis. (a short wire to a timing cover screw is what I always recommend) I have seen one regulator where this part of the regulator was not functioning but it doesn't stop it charging as it's a separate function. I concluded at some time the idiot light had shorted out overloading the circuit. No, the fuse holder should never melt, that was caused by a bad connection to the fuse pins, It's also a common problem with the 30 Amp fuse in the bikes own fusebox. The alternator puts out high current pulses, 14 x for ever revolution. I have never actually measured them but I wouldn't be suprised to see 40 Amps so it's quite unforgiving on a bad joint. My guess is the holder was never designed with the high current spikes in mind. Electrosport need your feedback, send them the picture. I'm sure their engineers will jump all over their factory in China. (I spend a lot of time in China, someone saved a cent buying those cheap fuseholders) I have noticed that the light on my ESR10 stays on at higher revs than a stock regulator, it just functions differently.

The fuel pumps are very reliable When you first turn the key on you should hear it running for about 2 seconds. Check for power on the two fuses that power up the ECU Relays, Check that you didn't leave a wire off the battery when you had it out. To test the Fuel Pump http://i1304.photobu...zpsb4c54183.jpg Unplug the ECU and remove relay 5 The 87 contact of the relay base is connected to the fuel pump. With a multimeter you will be able to measure the fuel pump resistance from 87 to the chassis, it should read 1 or 2 Ohms. Contact 30 of the relay base should have 12 Volts. If you take a piece of wire and plug it in the relay base the pump should run. (you have the ECU unplugged so the bike will not fire)

Welcome to the forum Posting from Italy, wow just 2 hours from the factory, are used Guzzis common over there? You said No noise from the pump so its the kill switch, or sidestand switch stopping the power to the ECU. If your bike has the electric petcock the fuse is a good place to check, it gets power just before the ECU You can bypass the sidestand relay by removing it and poke a wire in the 30 & 87 sockets. Be careful not to switch the fuel level sensor plug with the electric petcock plug, they should be colour coded. The schematics can be a bit daunting so I made this simplified sketch. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Start%20Problem/SimpleWiring_zpsb4c54183.jpg And here;s a link to Docc's throubleshooting chart. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16529 Bear in mind the Italian bikes may not be wired quite the same as they are for Nth. America

Some ESR 510s come without a fuse (at least mine did) but I wouldn't recommend that, the battery can easily supply 200 Amps if the RR ever shorted. The melted holder you found is the result of loose connections not too much current, I like to find easy faults like that. I don't think many appreciate how much current the alternator puts out, the average is not too high but the peaks are over 30 Amps. Just replace it with another from an auto parts store, find one with a good tight grip on the fuse. You're right the charge light should have warned you. Test the lamp by shorting the white wire to chassis with the key ON. The Charge light has 12 Volts on one side and the RR connects the other side to chassis. I assume it shorts to the green wire in the ESR510. I'm confident that once you replace the fuse holder it will charge fine. Just one other thing with the ESR510, it has a constant draw of about 0.3 milliamps so it's a good idea to pull the fuse if you store the bike over winter. (That's the reason why Guzzi have the OEM regulator downstream of the headlight relay but let's not go there)

Deleted Hey - what's that front wheel peeking in there? Looks interesting.

Sorry for the late reply, Mine is a generation before Bluetooth and I only communicat using an old laptop. You need to find someone local with a similar setup to yours.

I mean something proper like a lip seal, not just that wimpy dust seal.

That happened to me a while back, I was heading for a campout on a recently aquired EV. I heard a squawk from the front end, this is what I found. I rode back about 60 miles on just one front bearing. The shop I found had just one Chinese bearing. The next day I bought 4, it's not worth ruining a trip for a $7 bearing. The guy at the shop was surprised Guzzi don't have a proper seal to protect the bearing.

My greeney is at around 90k km, I had the forks apart but the seals don't leak so I just slapped them back together. I don't know any better so I'm quite happy with the ride.

Sounds like charging issues for sure. Is the headlight ON? It will not charge if the relay is not energized and the Start relay must be a 5 pin type. Without the engine running but key on you should see full battery Voltage on the black wire at regulator. Open circuit AC Voltage on the two alternator wires when you blip the throttle? If it's not over 50 take the cover off and inspect where the wires attach. Inspect the 30 Amp fuse and the alternator bullet connectors for signs of discolouration. Any sign of darker plastic is an indication of resistance causing heat. Add a ground wire from the regulator case to a timing cover screw, the case must be well grounded. The little one Luigi put there is not good enough, some V11s are badly grounded. Top up the battery with a charger to check it's ok. I sent you a PM Roy

Hi, My riding buddy has just purchased a 98 Triumph Tiger and is looking for both the Owners and Workshop Manuals Does anyone here have an owners in pdf format I can download for him. The local dealer has nothing in stock Thanks Roy

As Mznyc says The 150 mV with butterfly fully closed ensures that the TPS slider is not jambed at the end of travel Adjusting the idle screw to get 460 to 520 mV is just to give you a starting point for idle. My V11 is getting up there in miles so I adjust the LH throttle stop to get the idle point then wind in the RH stop by the same amount, this gives it a definite stop for both butterflys at idle otherwise it idles at a different speed each time I blip the throttle. To find the point where the idle screw is just touching the butterfly arm I use a strip of paper as a feeler gauge Proceedure Back off both idle screws till they are just making contact but not opening throttle Open air bleeds 1 turn Rotate TPS to get 150 mV ±5 Wind in LH throttle stop to get 460 mV then wind in RH stop by the same No of flats. Connect balance manometer Start bike Set Idle revs by moving both idle screws by equal amount Set idle balance using air bleeds Rev up and set balance at high revs using white knob on linkage On my EV which still has fairly tight linkages I have skipped the 460 mV step and just set the fast idle lever to give me the idle speed I want.

Actually the spine frame bikes have the best wiring IMHO, other Guzzis are a spaghetti factory of unfused wires. All the V11 circuits go through a fuse before heading off into the main looms. As others have pointed out there are no relays in the tail-light, it's on a separate set of ignition switch contacts along with the small lamp in the headlight and idiot lights so it can be left on with the ignition in Park position and key withdrawn. Does anyone ever use the Park lights? Update: Docc pointed out the idiot lights are not powered in Park position, just the gauge lamps.

Shirley Dave, this can't be the first time you balanced the carbs. Dave has a sweet LeMans

I don't think it's possible, to fully understand Luigi's wiring.