Kiwi_Roy

You might be able to make a resistor work, but what value would you use? It needs to be low enough to supply maximum Voltage to the thermistor but not so low it draws too much current when uncovered. The lamp (bulb) on the other hand is low resistance when cold but high when the thermistor is uncovered and heats up. The lamp should last a very long time because it's not subjected to thermal shock just a gentle change in Voltage up to about 10 Volts. BTW on the earlier bikes if you accidentally swapped the petcock and sensor cables this puts 12 Volts directly on the sensor, it's ok while the tank is full but if uncovered the thermistor will become red hot in seconds and fuse, It doesn't set the fuel on fire because it's inside a metal jacket with just a very small slit to the tank. The connectors on later bikes are keyed to prevent this.

The dash looks good, brings it into the 21st century Does it also include the idiot lights? Never mind, I see http://www.translogicusa.com/micro-dash.php Having a Volt meter is a big plus Did you have any trouble getting the fuel sensor to work?

Just get the type with the tab and tie them all together with a scrap of metal Thanks for the link SP838, I have been looking for those for ages How do you match up the two sizes of terminals required? Crimp tool? Make a little release tool like you see in the tray to release the contact from the base.

The Pump is running so the juice is getting as far as the ECU Next in line are Start Button, Clutch Switch, Start relay, Bullet connectors as others have pointed out. (shown as -->>-- -- Fuse 5 may be gone if you can hear the relay click. Pull the relay and stuff a short wire into the socket 30 - 87, it should crank, if not try a jumper between the solenoid trigger terminal and the large hot one. There's no need to be stranded on a V11 Sport because it won't crank, they are easy to push start.

I don't know the answer to that, it's over a year since I set mine up and I need re-training after a coffee break. It will be pretty obvious if you have it wrong and dead easy to change.

Pete, I wasn't on here when the slop plate was introduced. I did a search on here without results. I thought it was only to prevent the pump starving, I must confess I was having a hard time visualizing that since it's so high up on top of the sump extender. I never thought it might be for high level also. Does it let you run with more oil so you never approach starvation? I know mine looses pressure just above the low mark, with a plate do you re-mark the dip stick? Which Guzzi models does this apply to, just the V11 & LeMans of others like the California also? Regards Roy Update: Never mind, I found the thread in the How to section.

Yes, original yellow with a black stripe from the ECU, when you first initialize the tach you select how many pulses/rev to use. The red with black stripe comes from the headlight relay, if you use that to power the gauges they go through their startup routine every time you crank which is a bit annoying so I tapped into the wire direct from the ignition switch. Edit- In hindsight I should have powered the electronics up from the yellow wire that was used to power up the Veglia gauge lights, it seems to be on with the key. The tach has another small quirk, because it's a stepper motor it needs power to drive back to zero. When you turn off the key it stays up scale (the speedo would do the same if you turned off the key at speed. I know how to fix that but it's not annoying me. If you stop with the kill switch it drives down

I too wondered what to do with the line going to the airbox. I ended up running it down past the gearbox on the LH side and finished it off with a K&N crankcase breather. It gets a little black with oil but I have never seen a drip. I think these bikes will spit out oil if they are too full but don't go near the low mark or the pressure drops to zero on acceleration.

Your Dad left you a serious bike there, one you will grow to love. Barely run in at 9,000. How about posting a few pictures. A shot of under the seat would be good. so we can see if all the wires are in place. While you're there measure the battery Voltage before and after starting, The Voltage should increase with revs from idle. Check the engine oil level with the bike standing straight up, not on the side stand.

The Speedhut gauges are a good replacement for the troublesome Veglias, about $300 for a pair A word of caution, they make many different types, you need 3-3/8" and be sure to let them know it's for a bike and they will add silicone to the glass. The reset button is normally through the glass but they have an option of adding a jack at the rear as you can see below. This jack is used to configure the tach for no of cylinders, calibrate the speedo and trip reset. Avoid Canbus type, that's a communication bus for modern autos. They also make GPS speedos but I prefer the old school pulse input I wanted a look somewhat similar to the OEM Veglia. There was no room for the large nut that normally holds the gauge, in fact it's a tight fit in the back cover so I attached a central bolt that will also serve to keep the back secured. The anodized extrusion was laying around otherwise a short length of flat bar threaded to take a stud would do equally well. JB Weld is your friend. The Speedhuts are only 1' deep so I sliced 3/4" out of the rear cover using a strip of masking tape as a guide. At the same time shaving off all the bumps and blocking off all the spare holes with bondo. I had to reduce the depth of the lamp fitting in the process. This worked out well as I wanted to upgrade to LED lamps anyway. The lamps are simply glued into the fitting with the wires soldered directly to the contacts, I expect the LEDs to outlast me. Note the original incandescent soldered in parallel with the low fuel light, this gives the fuel level sensor the current it needs to warm up when uncovered. Forceps are worth their weight in gold when soldering the wires. I like to use the 194 miniature wedge base lamps from www.superbrightleds.com They work on AC so polarity is not an issue. A quick test. I know, I should have had them add the Guzzi logo. I love the way the Speedhut numbers glow in the dark. You have a choice of 5 glow colours. The speedo operates on any sort of a pulse, I quote "The Speedometer is designed to work with any wave/pulse form from 1 volt - 100 volts. Pulses per mile from 500 - 250,000" I made a simple sensor from a magnet and a reed switch, the case is made from aluminum sheet glued to the nut off an old cable. The switch is fastened to the outside sensing the field through the aluminum. There are no wearing parts to worry about because the rotating magnet is supported by the gearbox shaft. To calibrate press Start, drive two miles (4 km) then press End, Speedhut takes care of the rest. A runners GPS is perfect for measuring the distance.

My carbon fiber Mistrals came with "For Off Road Use Only" labels riveted on, a Canadian requirement but Gord at Valley Yamaha disappeared into the shop and came out with a nice pair of "V11 Sport" badges that were sized to replace those.

The Guzzi ECU circuit is pretty robust but loss of power for a split second will upset it no end, The ECU is connected to the rest of the bike by just one wire. To check for loss of power wire a small lamp to the petcock fuse. Any flicker of the lamp signifies loss of power. I like to use a small 12V LED for this taped to the bars.

Don;t forget the sidestand switch, it could be bouncing at that rev range with vibration. That's all I can add

I think most guys would have given up at that point. What do you think may have caused it? Good to see those Joe Kenny head guards went to a good home

With the plastic tank there's not much to block the filter, a metal tank like my 98 EV however rusts when water runs in from the recessed cap. It plugged right off on the way back to BC from Denver shortly after I bought it. I gave it a backflush, you should have seen the crap that came out, microscopic particles like polishing rouge.

I found several articles refering to 100 liters per hour http://www.mgnoc.com/article_external_guzzi_fuel_pumps.html There is aa good document referring to the early Webber ECU/fuel injection systems, I'm away from my files at the moment I believe the pumps are identical. I wouldn't mess with the pump /filter order. As it is if the filter plugs off the fuel pump is able to relieve excess pressure through it's internal relief valve, I'm not sure what would happen if it lost suction pressure

If it behaves the same on Left or right it must be something both sides have in common, as others say the flasher or the switch Do both front and rear lamps come on at full brightness? Something else to check I think you would get those symptoms also if the Voltage at the flasher was very low due to some resistance in the feed You should be able to measure ~12 Volts on one pin of the flasher to chassis with them on (lamps glowing), if not check at the fuse F7 on this schematic (yours may be different) The key is to measure the Volts while the circuit is under load (lamps on) it will always read 12 V at no load no matter how high the resistance is. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif If it's low there, say less than 11 it could be a dirty ignition switch, flick it a few times see if it improves.

Sorry, it's so long since I bought them I won't be able to find a record. I bought the straight ones, slight angle would sit better. In my picture here I have them extended by using the existing intake rubbers as velocity stacks, I think it ran a little better that way. I have since taken these off and have them straight on the throttle body. The red cloth covers looked nice for about a year, cheap enough to replace if you wanted to.

Time for a new multimeter I think, it doesn't have to be an expensive one, $10 - $20 for a digital.

Docc, perhaps you are right, that's where it was on mine, I just assumed mine was normal. I know of at least 3 bikes that went into meltdown mode because the main ground worked loose. Here is one, not mine - you can't quite see where the main ground is going to because it's hidden by the main loom but it looks like it could well end up under the seat lock screw. The wire with no insulation is the black wire from regulator case to battery negative. Under the seat release is neat and tidy, out of sight out of mind, until this happens.

The first thing to do is make sure the battery is really discharged and not just disconnected. The main ground on the spine framed bikes is clamped behind the seat release lock this often works loose. Some will argue but I say remove from there and put under the adjacent gearbox bolt. Clean and Vaseline the battery terminals. Please point us to the exact model Ricks regulator you purchased i.e. a link to their page http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Did you look at the M-Unit Roy? I was curious to hear what you think of its capabilities. The basic unit certainly looks like it would tidy things however you still need wires from the unit to the headlight H/L filaments It would probably work best with a pre FI bike, the diagrams seem to point that way. http://motogadget.com/media/downloads/plan/fahrzeugschaltplan_en.pdf The m-Unit V.2 is the 'electrical heart' of the motorbike. All switching operations are completely digitally controlled by a microprocessor and the latest solid-state technology - completely without mechanical relays, taking vehicle electrical systems to a new level! From that I gather the switching is done by transistors. I wonder what the current rating is, your Valeo starter solenoid will draw 50 Amps for a split second. I'm not sure you save a lot of wiring, with the M Button, you still have to connect all the switches and all the loads, it just saves the wires in between You could make your own relay based system and connect the switches to relays with tiny wires. If you had a problem on the road it might be hard to troubleshoot although it has LEDs on each input and output. http://motogadget.com/media/downloads/plan/fahrzeugschaltplan_mbutton_en.pdf Realy, it's not doing a lot more than the relays on your Guzzi are doing already, There accessories certainly look nice but as SP838 says I wouldn't use one unless I was starting from scratch.

The Motogadget seems to be in a metal case, the Speedhut is plastic, not that you see it once installed. The big plus for Speedhut is all the options available, you can configure the look any way you like and include your own graphic For a bike ask them to seal the glass and put the reset button at the back. Just tad over $300 for the pair. I personally wouldn't go for with the GPS model speedo, all you need is a pulse.

It looks marginally better than Speedhut at several times the price. Same idea, stepper motor drive.

I put the straight K&Ns on mine as you can see. I think the ones with a slight angle would have been better