Kiwi_Roy

I sent you a sensor but in the meantime you could just go to Radio Shack and get a normal resistor roughly equivalent to the air temperature 2.2k Ohm ~ 30 degrees C would be close enough to try, I doubt the air temperature is that critical For yours to read so low I think it must have some sort of short, I'm not sure what action the ECU would take if it thinks the engine is that hot. You weren't reading it with the ECU plugged in by any chance? When I put pods on my bike I figured it would be too hot under the tank so I relocated the sensor up by the headstock in the cool air.

no, the pump runs continuous (once running) and had a regulator to maintain pressure, extra fuel is pumped back into the tank. Just to add to that, if anything blocks the path to the regulator e.g. a dirty filter the pump pressure will build up to about 60 psi then relieve back internally. I believe on your bike the regulator is fitted under the RH side of the tank, the pressure in that hose is 45 psi set by the regulator from memory, it's the same pressure the injectors see. To measure the pressure you have to tee in at that point. It's unlikely the regulator has failed but if you pull the hose off and direct it into a bottle you should see a full pipe, not a dribble while the pump primes. I don't understand how your new filter could be blocked but the symptoms, dying at higher revs and fuel pump noise seems familiar, it will only take a minute to verify the flow. A word of caution, when you take the hose off some fuel will squirt out because the system normally holds a bit of pressure. No, not the fuel pump fuse, the electric petcock fuse, it is on the same wire that powers up the ECU relay, the power must remain on at that point or it will play havoc with the ECU. It's quite common to have a dirty switch drop it out. Yes any small lamp will do although I prefer a 12V LED, I have one that fits inside the pivot point for the levers I just sent you a PM

The ECU relay might be dropping out because of a bad connection/contact. I encourage guys to add a light to the wire feeding the relay so they can watch for it dropping. A convenient spot to pick this up is the petcock fuse, a little lamp between there and chassis taped to the bars is all you need. It should never so much as flicker. Weird pump sound, could it be the internal relief lifting i.e. blockage going forward, the pressure goes from 45 to over 60 psi and the fuel flows back thru the hollow pump shaft. Here is the full chart for thermistor Why was it so hot or were you measuring the oil temperature, air temperature should read over 1000 Ohms = 50°C 30 Ohms is in the stratisphere (ok, I can't spell)

I mentioned that your air temperature reading seemed very high 30 odd Ohms about 140 °C, is it in a cool air stream? I would also check that you are not loosing Voltage to the ECU relay but that usually causes the bike to miss and fart Dirty ignition switch or sidestand switch Check you are getting a full pipe flow back to the regulator, just slip the hose off and put it in a bottle while the bike primes Is the pump extra noisy

No, 100 quid is about $200 Canadian Pesos

Yea, the speak the Queens English over there Actually I was thinking customs etc, here I can ship stuff to Blaine and pick up, if I shipped a pair of gauges direct to Canada I would likely pay $100 in customs and brokerage fees.

The last one i bought was from MG Cycle. Currently out of stock unfortunately http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2923

Plus 1 for Speedhut I replaced both mine that way, but they are a US company may be a little harder to arrange from the UK

That is good information Hubert posted and most of it applies to your bike. Bear in mind if you have the OEM Ducati Energia regulator running a new light feed direct from the battery will rob it of about half a volt. If you tap off after the bikes existing relay you only require one extra relay in the headlight bucket. Don't tap off the Alternator in our case, the car one put's out DC

The arcing you got seems normal to me, you were attaching the missing link I'm pretty sure this will apply to your after market regulator also Look for a PM Roy

Perhaps disconnect the regulator, try another fuse (any small size) with the regulator out of circuit i.e. just the red wire alive, if it still blows fuses then it can't be the regulator probably the loom. Please mention the Ricks regulator model, I took a look at their website but it doesn't list a Guzzi For some reason I'm starting to think loose main ground may have caused this.

If you don't have the regulator grounded the full alternator Voltage will appear between the regulator case and chassis, depending on the revs this could be 60 Volts or more and it's DC which will draw a nice arc. The same amps flowing out thru the red wire and 30 Amp fuse has to get back somehow. The ground connection has more effect on charging than the positive connection. Note the waveform at the top RH side, the full output of the alternator I suspect over 30 Amps, flows each half cycle until the black wire sees ~13.8 Volts in relation to the case.

I agree with the Monkey, the Electrosport ESR-510 works well. I finally gave up on the Ducati Energia although I think it's a good design but let's face it 15 years old. The main problem as I see it is the way it senses the battery Voltage, downstream of the headlight relay. I believe it's wired that way so with the key off it draws zero current from the battery, however it's effected by Voltage drop through the headlight circuit, adding headlight relays (bypassing the headlight circuit) or extra lights also messes with the Voltage. I suspect it's this sensing point that causes most of the charging problems that occur Charging also relies on a good connection between the regulator case and the chassis, The current that flows through the red wire to the battery has to get back to the alternator. Adding a short jumper from the case to engine improves it's chances. A direct connected regulator on the other hand senses the battery Voltage through the same wires that it uses to charge the battery, it doesn't have or need a connection to the chassis. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17802&hl=electrosport The Ducati regulator when connected draws about 15 milliamps The Electrosport draws less than 0.3 milliamps

I still wait for the day when finally one of you hobby sparkies let the smoke out of the whole bike, hopefully out of his own then Hubert Hubert, If that snide remark was addressed at me let me assure you I am more than qualified to comment on things electrical.

Andy, the tach and charging rely on a feed from the headlight relay, if the headlights not on the tach wont be working. Do you have any other headlight mods, relays, extra lights and so forth?

This comment you made puzzles me "I have noticed the relays are extremely hot when this occures. and when the bike does finally fire up, I get a click from the starter relay as if it has cooled down enough to start working. Could it be the relays are getting to hot?" I have never noticed hot relays, they normally consume just over a Watt, not enough to make them over warm. Is the bike running ok before you shut down? Failure to crank, commonly known on a different forum as "Startus Interuptus" is usually caused by a bad connection or dirty ignition switch, this prevents the starter solenoid from pulling enough current to pull in. Determine if the start relay is through the switch. Pull the start relay (the front most one on mine), connect your meter between the top contact (30) and the chassis. Does point (30) turn On and Off with the switch? Note: I revised this post and sent the owner a PM

Here I zoom in to explain what's working if the pump primes as it should All that stuff to the left of the start button, the ECU the pumps primed and it's ready to start If the pump is priming it proves the ECU is powered up, now if the bike is cranked over the sensor at the front LH side should cause the ECU to power up the coils and re-start the pump. If the normal start circuit won't cause it t crank you by-pass the relay with a jumper (highlighted in blue) or give it a bump start. Your starter relay feed might be a little different from my V11 Sport, lots of guzzis power up the start relay via the ignition switch, see my next post.

Sorry, the edit function doesn't seem to be working, i can't add a second picture

You need to give us a few more your clues does it prime again if you turn the key off and back and back on again.

You have a good point Phil I have mine set at a point where it gives me good engine braking rather than have to use the brakes all the time just to slow. I have never bothered to verify what the actual speed is at.

Sorry, I missed that. I;m sure the pulses from the ECU microprocessor to the tach are just a fraction of the pulses from the toothed wheel but I have no idea what the scale factor is. How about MyECU display, that would be dead accurate I'm sure I have MyECU also with a fuel mixture meter. I have tried changing the injector timing on the fly by fudging the TPS signal. Send me a PM if interested. Roy

Another possibility is to measure the the alternator frequency and divide by 7 (14 poles, 7 pairs = 7 cycles per revolution) Another possibility is to remove the alternator cover and view the rotor under a flourescent light you should see it stand still at 3000 revs and it will alternate at 1500 revs. (3600 & 1800 where the line frequency is 60 Hz)

Just take one of the original lamps and wire it in parallel to the LED, tuck it in behind somewhere. A lamp is much better than a resistor because it starts out cold at a low value, this gives the fuel level sensor full 12 Volts so it heats up quickly but the current drops back to about 100 mA. The LED draw is insignificant compared to the incandescent. I have mine wired this way, it works great. What you really have to be careful of with the fuel sensor is not to mix it up with the electric petcock, on earlier bikes the plugs were interchangeable, later bikes have them keyed. It's ok to put 12 Volts on the sensor if it's covered with fuel but it will burn out in seconds if uncovered. How does the sensor work. It's a thermistor with a negative temperature coefficient When covered (kept cool) it just draws a few mA, not enough to light the lamp (incandescent) Once uncovered the small current causes it to warm a little, this causes the resistance to drop so the current goes up which causes it to heat up a little more and so on getting faster and faster until the resistance drops to quite a low value. the only limiting factor is the bulb. If you don't have the bulb in series (wrong plug) it will soon reach red heat before it melts. It can't cause the fuel to ignite because it's in a metal can with just a tiny slot that acts like a flame arrestor. Here you can see the old lamp covered in white heat shrink The lamp should last forever because it gets a very easy life, no sudden turn on and never to full voltage.

This is very important, when you switched batteries you may have just pulled on the wire to give it a fresh ground connection. Slow cranking is one symptom of a bad ground, soon followed by magic smoke. The best way of testing a battery is measure the Voltage while cranking, you can also measure the voltage from Negative to the chassis while cranking to check the ground connection but it's just as easy to unscrew the seat lock and look. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18366

If you remove the back cover you should be able to grab the brass inserts with a pair of needle nose pliers (pinch them to the plastic) while you undo the Allen screws after you get them out the screws will loosen up or you gan secure the inserts from the rear. BTW, check the Oil and generator lights the same way Short the terminal of the oil pressure switch to chassis to check the oil light. Sort the White wire of the Black / White pair at the regulator to chassis to check the charge light. Both done with the key on of course