Kiwi_Roy

Hi, I recently pulled apart one of the Bosch starters to compare it with a Valeo. The Bosch has a series wound motor with a direct drive (no gearbox). A series motor can generate very high torque. The Valeo has a motor with permanent magnet fields and a planetary gearbox to increase the available torque. The solenoids on both starters are similar, they both have dual coils and require a really good circuit from the battery to pull in. The bike wiring schematics do not show the dual coil arrangement, it's more like a black box. The solenoid draws a very heavy current for a fraction of a second, If there is too much resistance in the circuit the it will not be able to pull in and close the main contacts. The battery - fuse - relay - solenoid circuit I have shown is about as simple as it gets. For those of you that have the solenoid powered through the ignition switch I strongly suggest you consider re-wiring to bypass the switch. Running the start relay coil through ignition switch is OK, it only draws a fraction of an Amp You will notice I show a 15 Amp fuse in a circuit drawing up to 50 Amp, the fuse won't blow because the peak current only flows for about 1/10 of a second, just until the main contact closes. Bosch Starter.pdf Valeo Starter.pdf I hope this helps Roy

I guess that's the kind of thing I was trying to do only instead of moving the TPS I just added or subtracted a few mV. Here's the circuit I used Throttle position Trim Pot.pdf The idea was to find the sweet spot, measure the offset mV then move the TPS to get the same offset. However once I assembled Cliff's ECU I soon forgot about that. Thanks Cliff, my bike now runs like a Swiss watch

Sorry, I should have been a bit clearer, I have no intention of using this as a permanent fix. You are right of course, I simply thought by moving up or down the TP rows I would be making the mixture more or less rich. When I gave up on that I bought a MyECU, it's magic.

I thought I'd better not hijack the other TPS thread. A while back I made myself a little black box so I could +/- the sensor signal by up to 300 mV thinking this would allow me to change the mixture map on the fly. I thought I would be able to notice a significant change in acceleration however it seemed to have almost no effect leaving me disappointed and puzzled. Perhaps at speed the throttle position has less effect than other inputs such as engine revs. Is there some sort of math formula showing the relationship between TPS mV, RPM, Air/Oil temperature and the resulting mixture. I had thought of strapping my osciliscope to the tank to monitor the injector opening time but that might be a bit distracting

Yes, you can also measure it at the ECU This drawing shows measuring the resistance with the ECU unplugged ECU Test Points.pdf The purpose of this drawing is to test the items connected to the ECU, not the ECU itself. If you want to measure the voltage take a sewing pin and drive it thru the wire going to pin 11 Measure Voltage between the pin and battery negative or another pin thru wire going to pin 22 The wire going to pin 1 is fixed at 5 Volts Remember the plug will be a mirror image of the one I show because you will be looking at the back. Note also, my colours are not as on the bike. Hope this helps Roy

It could also be Voltage drop in the start circuit, do you hear the solenoid engage before or after the delay? The starter solenoid would like to draw about 50 Amps so just the slightest resistance will reduce its effect considerably e.g. 0.1 Ohm in the circuit will drop the power to half. Check for the start circuit fuse getting warm. Once the starter is engaged the solenoid current drops to Valeo and Bosch are similar. Bosch Starter.pdf Valeo Starter.pdf Perhaps it's just cold oil gumming up the solenoid as mznyc suggests.

I'm with Thumper, the alternator is more than up to maintaining the battery if you have just the standard headlight etc. However it will loose ground when idling in traffic. There are two reasons I know for weak charging. An open circuit in one of the regulators diodes, this can be easily checked. Bad ground on the regulator. I have seen this on several bikes, including my own, the tiny ground wire the factory provides is next to useless. The current pulses the regulator puts out are in excess of 30 Amps so you need something like #14 or 1mm at least. The connection between case and the chassis through the mounting bolts is ok until corrosion takes place which is inevitable with disimilar metals in a wet environment. If you haven't already done so run a heavy wire between the regulator case and a handy engine bolt. Charging Circuit Problems.pdf Regulator Diode Tests.pdf Shows some readings I took on a healthy bike. Charging Circuit Tests.pdf Roy

What are you riding. Man the brakes on my V11 Sport are so good they are scary It's dead easy to stand it on the front wheel.

Yes, but my Italian girlfriend said... "Buy me a new battery and I'll show you a good time" What else could I do?

I'm running a Yuasa in mine, got ripped off at the local dealer who charged me $190 for it. I was stuck in a parking lot and tried phoning all around but no-one else could cross reference the original Spark. A few months later the Yuasa quit and the dealer reluctantly replaced it under warantee with aother Yuasa, so far it's performed flawlessly and the stealer lost the Guzzi brand along with Triumph. That's Karma in action. I think Yuasa are OK at the right price. Roy

Hi Ouiji, From the other comments it sounds like the board may liven up a notch! I'm fairly new here, my simple drawing of a 2001 V11 Sport, it applies to other models also Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf You can see that Fuse 1 supplies Voltage to ECU terminal 17 even with the key off. I doubt it draws very much current but you can remove Fuse 1 and connect your multimeter across it's socket to measure the mA A more detailed drawing of the ECU wiring ECU Test Points.pdf Cheers Roy

http://www.wakantanka.com/ Sorry, you've lost me

Heres a picture of a friends V11 with wrap Personally I prefer mine naked

By the time you do it again you will have forgotten how

Oh no, you've gone and started another oil thread. Seriously I think most use the recomended synthetic along with OEM filters. I'm a long way from my manual at the moment. There a 3 different oils, motor, gearbox and rear drive. I would start with just the motor, it's hardly likely the transmission would need changing. Try to make contact with some other guzzi riders in your area, they will point in the right direction. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/index.htm I'm sure you will find a manual on this excelent site Another good site http://www.wildguzzi.com/forum/ but not specific to your bike like this site. Post on there and you will find guys in your area for sure. Cheers Roy

No sorry, I haven't seen anything better, the trouble is finding somewhere to put the new fuses. If you are going to add some accessories like that don't load them onto the ignition switch it's already struggling, add another relay with the coil powered from the downstream side of the headlight relay that way the load will be switched off while cranking. Since your new loads are non-essential you could feed them all off a simgle circuit say Battery +, Fuse, Relay contact, new loads. I'm away in China at the moment so I have no way of sketching something out.

I'm sorry to hear about your Dad, tell us more about him, the Guzzi community is quite small I'm sure others here knew him and would jump at the chance of helping you sort out his bike. Yes, you must definately keep the bike, once you get it back on the road it will be a constant reminder of your Father. The battery probably needs replacing if it's been sitting for 5 years or more but you could try charging it up first. Yuasa batteies are conventional Lead Acid and not that expensive. Post some photos, perhaps one of your Dad with the bike. BTW, what year LeMans? Cheers Roy

Been there - done that, too many wires on each terminal

This might help Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf Do you hear the petcock operate. With the key on see if the Relay 1 clicks as you put it in and out of the socket. Check for 12V at the 30 terminal of R1 R2, if not check F1 F2 If you've had the battery disconnected check to make sure you reconnected ALL the wires

Tap into the headlight relay circuit perhaps, it's already switched.

In North America a good source is www.digikey.com http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/G8HN-1C2T-R%20DC12/Z2247-ND/765512 Use all 5 pin variety and keep the old ones for projects such as Headlight relays, heated clothing switched supply etc Roy

As you know the Wild Goose chase server is down Can we keep in touch here with progress updates? Thanks Roy

Can you elaborate any issues here? Which allen screws - the ones on UJ? Gearbox spline - the spline on output shaft? Thanks. KB The two Allen head bolts that pinch the gearbox end of the driveshaft onto the spline. The spline has an indent to allow for these so you have to remove the bolt completely. If you don't get the indent in the center of the bolt hole it results in the threads getting all chewed up. The first time I pulled the driveshaft my bolts were all stripped that way so I replaced them. I also modified my grease gun to fit thinking "I won't have to pull that again" guess what. I think if you had a bare needle bent to the correct angle you might be able to grease it but once you get the wheel out it's a cinch to drop the swingarm and pull the shaft. Take a note of where the pivot bolts in the pork chop are before you remove them so they go back the same and check the pivot bearings also.

I thought that the driveshaft couldn't fit through the tunnel in the the swingarm? That's right, I just backed off the swing arm bolts and dropped it right out, gives you a chance to inspect those bearings and rear wheel also. I think I must have disconnected the suspension, it's only a 2 beer job. I have only done it twice so I'm no expert.